Throughout the shows at Milan Fashion Week, as with London Collections: Men, we’ve seen far more loosened up shapes: soft shouldered, boxier jackets and wider-legged trousers. However the item that has been omnipresent on the catwalks as an example of this emerging trend is the slouchy, belted coat. And while this is a shape we’ve seen here and there in previous seasons, the difference this time is just how many we’ve seen. A bit like shearling in London (sidenote: also huge over here, so prepare to see lots of shearling jackets in shops this time next year), almost every designer has shown at least one coat that is looser with soft, almost nonexistent shoulders and pulled in tight at the waist. What’s also new is the breadth of materials this shape has been cut from. Notable iterations that we’re already saving up for next season are the belted, quilted overcoat at Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, the multicoloured knitted wool knee-skimmers at Missoni and the grey wool top layers at Salvatorre Feragamo (the one with birds embroidered flying up from the hen was a particular standout for guys who are looking for something a little bolder).
Even Prada’s shapes were a little looser than they’ve previously been. Miuccia showed a selection of thigh-length coats that were either belter or half belted to draw them in at the waist (you might have seen us Instagram a very impressive camel coloured one from the catwalk yesterday). Sure, the shoulders were a little sharper than those above, but it’s Prada – and if even the shapes there are slouchier than they’ve ever been, then you can guarantee it’s a trend that’s going to take hold across the board.