The activities of Accord and Alliance, two groups of western retailers of Bangladesh’s readymade garments, are now under government’s close observation to lessen further misunderstanding between them and the apparel makers, officials said. According to government high-ups, though the decision-makers did not formally issue any letter/instruction, they, in principle, have decided to monitor all activities of the two global groups working for addressing problems in the industry against the background of some major incidents. A high official, preferring anonymity, said the government took the decision having received objections from different apparel makers on activities of the two groups. Senior secretary of the ministry of commerce (MoC) Hedayetullah Al Mamoon told the FE Thursday that they are working together with the two groups of international buyers so that if any complexity is created, the governed can know it instantly and go for next course of action through discussion with them. “Presently, we are looking into the matter. There are not many problems in their respective activities as there were previously. They (Accord and Alliance) are now carrying out their duties within their jurisdiction,” he said. Last May, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) made a written complaint against the Accord to Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed to look into the issue seriously and take appropriate measures to keep the platform’s activities under the country’s law, an association source said. He said the Accord got involved in labour-management issue to create problems with the factory management and engaged in some activities beyond the purview of worker safety. The platform also threatened to declare some factories ‘noncompliant’, He also said the Accord tried to influence workers of some factories to communicate with labour leaders and participate in trade union. “But the Accord is not supposed to do this.” In June last, the country’s apparel-makers also apprised Finance Minister AMA Muhith in a meeting at his ministry about the activities of Accord and Alliance. “They (Accord and Alliance) were welcome to help us to attain buyers’ confidence, but their activities have now become a noose for apparel industry. They are exercising extra sovereign power,” the minister said at that meeting with the industry leaders. Expressing concern about their activities Mr Muhith termed such pressure unfortunate. The Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safetywas founded by a group of North American apparel companies and retailers and brands who have joined together to develop and launch the Bangladesh Worker Safety Initiative, a binding five-year undertaking. Collectively, these Alliance members represent the overwhelming majority of North American importers of readymade garments (RMG) from Bangladesh, produced in more than 580 factories. On the other hand, the Accord, led mostly by European buyers, on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh (the Accord) was signed on May 15, 2013. It is a five-year independent, legally binding agreement between global brands and retailers and trade unions to build a safe and healthy Bangladeshi readymade garment industry.
