The country’s apparel makers have strongly opposed the tenure extension of two western retailers’ platforms – Accord and Alliance – and criticised their various activities for which, they said, the industry is now in dire straits. The observations came at an emergency meeting of the apparel apex body – BGMEA (Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association) held at a city hotel on Sunday. The meeting convened to discuss the current situation of the industry sought opinions from its members. The apparel makers also called on the BGMEA to take strong stance against them so that they cannot stay in the country after 2018. “It is high time the BGMEA and the government really take a strong stance against Accord and Alliance,” said Anisur Rahman Sinha, a former president of BGMEA. Terming the activities of both the platforms as torturous, he said there will be no entrepreneur in the trade if the existing problem is not being addressed timely. Without consultations with the trade body and the government, no decision could be taken and imposed on the local industry, he said. AK Azad, managing director of Ha-Meem Group, alleged that an inspection team recommended some issues while others who are verifying them didn’t accept and put new and fresh requirements. “They themselves didn’t abide by their own decisions.” “It is time to raise strong voice through united BGMEA,” Mostafa Golam Quddus, another former BGMEA president, said explaining that factories are struggling for survival and only few lucky apparel makers are making profits. “The presence of the members indicates seriousness of the situation,” he added. Terming the Accord’s decision to extend its tenure for three more years ‘unilateral’, Shafiul Islam Mohiuddin, president of Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FBCCI) said, “We will not accept any unfair and forced decision.” He advised buyers to leave the country if they can’t do business accepting the sovereignty of the country. Expressing gratitude to Accord and Alliance for extending support to resolve problems and improve workplace safety in the country’s ready-made garment sector, he warned, “Don’t try to be East India company.” He, however, criticised some of the local apparel makers who accept unjust and imposed decisions of buyers and made unusual hike in wages and other unfair benefits. Mr Mohiuddin, also a BGMEA former president, requested the association to handle the issue with strong capability and take actions against the local makers who accept unjust and forced decisions taken by buyers. Arshad Jamal, chairman of Tusuka, opined for disallowing any extension of the western retailers’ platforms and recommended dealing with the issue politically and diplomatically. He, however, raised question whether the buyers are willing to put off their control from Bangladesh. He also recommended formation of a credible and acceptable body to replace the activities of Accord and Alliance and to avert any possible technical problems. Md Hatem, a former BKMEA (Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association) leader, called for action so that Accord and Alliance cannot stay in the country after 2018. BGMEA president Md Siddiqur Rahman in his welcome speech said the industry is passing through a tough time and added that they would not allow any extension without discussion with local stakeholders including BGMEA and the government. He alleged a group of people are engaged in propaganda against the sector and the country and requested the government to identify them and take stern action against them. Some of the BGMEA members sought the Prime Minister’s intervention in this regard. More than 500 BGMEA members attended the EGM, according to the association. The participants demanded cash incentives, separate exchange rate of dollar for exports, reduction in bank interest rate and gas price and other infrastructural cost to help the sector to be price competitive. Their other demands included branding the image of the sector through effective public relations activities, bringing all export-oriented garment factories under the association’s umbrella, skills development, networking with the diplomats. More than 15 brands and retailers including H&M, C&A, Loblaw, Primark, Inditex and PVH and two global rights groups – UNI Global Union and IndustriAll Global Union – on June 29 signed an agreement in Paris to extend the Accord’s tenure for three more years till 2021. The tenure of Accord and Alliance will expire in mid-2018. The Accord’s new agreement puts greater emphasis on the rights of workers to organise and join a union recognising that workers’ empowerment is fundamental to assuring workplace safety and also presents the possibility to expand the Accord to sectors other than the ready-made garment industry.
