As luxury brands navigate an era of recalibration, the Fall/Winter 2025 menswear season proved that those who challenge conventions with fresh ideas are best positioned to defy the industry’s economic slowdown. With menswear outpacing womenswear in the Italian market and global menswear sales projected to grow from US $ 595.74 billion to US $ 936.94 billion by 2033, designers seized the moment to sharpen their vision. The result? A season that balanced heritage with reinvention, offering collections that resonated with modern consumers while ensuring longevity.
One defining shift was the move away from ‘quiet luxury’. Instead of strict minimalism, designers are gravitating towards modern elegance – honouring tradition while injecting newness into classic menswear. At Zegna, knitwear transcended its usual role, styled as outerwear for a soft yet sophisticated effect, while Dior embraced the house’s archival H silhouette, playing with draped blouses, cinched trousers and structured-yet-fluid tailoring.
This season, the classic suit became a canvas for bold experimentation, with Louis Vuitton and KidSuper deconstructing traditional tailoring and Willy Chavarria opting for oversized checks and relaxed volumes.
Menswear’s rugged spirit was equally present, particularly in the resurgence of Western influences. Unlike previous seasons’ literal cowboy interpretations, designers took a more refined approach with Prada’s scuffed paisley-printed cowboy boots and Hermès’ equestrian-inspired suede pieces hinting at the American West without veering into costume territory. Corduroy suiting at Willy Chavarria and snap-buttoned overshirts at Louis Vuitton spoke of the trend’s adaptability across aesthetics.
Another major shift came in denim, where slim-fitted jeans made a quiet yet confident return. Bluemarble leaned into the 2000s revival with faded washes, proving that denim’s evolution remains key in the modern wardrobe. In outerwear, function met fashion through technical innovation. Rick Owens, Sacai and Emporio Armani doubled down on performance-driven silhouettes, layering textures, pockets and weatherproof details for a utilitarian edge.
Earthy hues like tobacco, espresso and chocolate dominated, punctuated by rich burgundy and deep forest green dominated the runways, whilst Grey and charcoal emerged as the season’s alternative to black.
F/W ’2025-26 reaffirmed that menswear is not merely evolving— it’s expanding, embracing both utility and indulgence, modernity and heritage. Below, we highlight the key trends dictating the season and how you can build these trends into your assortments for success.
Reinterpreting the classic suit
The classic suit is undergoing a bold transformation for Fall/Winter 2025 season, becoming a canvas for innovation and self-expression. Across major runways, designers redefined traditional tailoring with unexpected cuts, textures and proportions, signalling a shift toward a more contemporary, individualistic approach to formalwear.
At Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams and Nigo introduced asymmetrical cuts and experimental fabrics, challenging conventional suiting norms. KidSuper’s Colm Dillane took a more structured route, reimagining striped suits in dark hues with a graphic edge, while, Willy Chavarria leaned into exaggerated silhouettes, incorporating wide-leg trousers and oversized checked prints, making a powerful statement on inclusivity and modern masculinity.
For brands seeking to adapt this trend, the key lies in deconstructing classic tailoring while maintaining wearability. Consider oversized blazers with cinched waists, asymmetrical lapels or hybrid suiting that merge traditional wool with unexpected materials like velvet, leather or technical fabrics. Experimenting with volume— be it boxy shoulders or slouchy trousers— can work well with various demographics.
Technical outerwear
Even after the peak of the gorpcore movement, technical outerwear remains an essential pillar of Fall/Winter 2025 collections with designers continuing to refine performance-driven pieces, balancing function with futuristic aesthetics.
The more utilitarian, the better— think featuring oversized pockets, adjustable toggles, protective hoods and advanced fabrications that reinforce durability and weather resistance.
Sacai embraced a storytelling approach, drawing inspiration from Maurice Sendak’s ‘Where the Wild Things Are’, resulting in tactile puffer jackets trimmed with faux fur, earthy tones and UGG-collaborated bear-like boots. Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto and IM Men (Issey Miyake) leaned into alternate, almost dystopian aesthetics, presenting outerwear suited for a post-apocalyptic lifestyle. Emporio Armani and Y-3 doubled down on texture and high-performance materials, catering to urban explorers seeking both practicality and style.
Incorporating elements like weatherproof coatings, modular layering and dynamic silhouettes— whether oversized bombers or sculptural parkas— can make technical outerwear more appealing to a broader audience.
Plaids please
Plaid continues to dominate the upcoming season, evolving beyond its traditional workwear roots with designers exploring a spectrum of plaid interpretations, from bold and oversized to subtle and sophisticated.
Junya Watanabe’s nostalgic approach leaned into the rugged appeal of 2013’s lumberjack-chic aesthetic, pairing large red plaids with utilitarian workwear, while Ralph Lauren and Zegna took a more polished route, weaving classic checks into tailored outerwear and suiting. Hermès introduced an abstract take on the trend, experimenting with effortless colour combinations that added depth and movement to the pattern. Meanwhile, Amiri channelled the 1970s, incorporating vintage-checked motifs into relaxed silhouettes for a contemporary-meets-retro feel.
For brands looking to integrate plaid into their collections, the key lies in reworking proportions, colours and applications. Oversized plaids on outerwear and knitwear offer a bold statement, while micro-checks and tonal herringbones lend themselves well to understated layering. Mixing plaids with modern tailoring, unexpected fabrications or contrasting textures can redefine the trend, ensuring it remains relevant for the season to come.
Faux fur coats
Faux fur coats have emerged as a defining outerwear statement for the upcoming F/W ’25 season, seamlessly blending luxury with contemporary streetwear influences. Parisian runways showcased diverse interpretations, from Sacai’s fusion of plush textures with technical yokes to the urban-inspired designs of 424 and 3. Paradis, which infused faux fur with modern cuts and streetwear detailing. Milan followed suit, with Emporio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana refining the trend through classic silhouettes and superior craftsmanship, reinforcing faux fur’s position as a timeless investment piece. Plush textures in rich, muted hues offered a sophisticated spin on the trend, while exaggerated collars and oversized shapes added drama to outerwear essentials.
In order to derive the most out of this trend, the key lies in balancing opulence with wearability. Play with voluminous cuts for a statement effect or integrate faux fur as panelling in hybrid outerwear pieces for a more subtle approach. Exploring unconventional colorways can further elevate the look, while sustainable sourcing and innovative fabric treatments will appeal to the eco-conscious consumer.
Men in Pink
Pink has emerged as one of the standout colours of the Fall/Winter 2025 season, making a powerful comeback on the men’s catwalks. No longer limited to solely womenswear, pink is a defining colour for menswear this season. From soft pastels to bold hues, designers are embracing pink to challenge traditional gender norms and infuse a sense of modern sophistication into the male wardrobe. This season’s approach moves beyond novelty, integrating pink into structured tailoring, casualwear and statement outerwear.
Kim Jones at Dior reimagined powder pink in elegantly cut silhouettes, using refined tailoring to enhance the colour’s delicate yet confident appeal. Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton collection skillfully showcased pink’s versatility in streetwear, with checkered cardigans that balanced vibrancy with everyday wearability. At Rochas, pastel pink coats with broad shoulders evoked a romantic yet powerful aesthetic, while Maria Koch at 032C took a bold, textured approach, injecting contemporary energy into the hue.
Modern Elegance
As fashion moves away from the rigid codes of quiet luxury, Fall/Winter 2025 embraces a more expressive form of refinement with heritage pieces being reimagined through fluidity, soft tailoring, and an understated grandeur. Designers are blending classic menswear codes with modern ease, creating silhouettes that exude sophistication without the restraint of traditional formality.
This refined aesthetic was particularly evident in Zegna’s collection, where knitwear took centre stage not just as a layering piece but as outerwear itself. Knit-on-knit styling, drapery across the shoulders, reinforced a relaxed yet luxurious sensibility. At Dior, Kim Jones revived the house’s archival H silhouette, introducing effortless sensuality through draped blouses, cinched-waist oversized trousers, and structured yet fluid blazers.
For brands looking to interpret this trend, the focus should be on balancing structure and ease. Incorporating deconstructed tailoring, knit-infused outerwear and fluid layering will ensure collections feel both modern and timeless, bridging classic craftsmanship with contemporary elegance.
Skinny jeans
Slim-fitted denim is making a confident comeback for Fall/Winter 2025-26, striking a balance between streamlined silhouettes and modern wearability. This season’s iteration dials back on the extreme skinniness of past decades, instead favouring a tailored, elongated fit that flatters without feeling restrictive.
Dior’s approach leaned into quiet luxury, refining the cut with premium fabrics and meticulous detailing, ensuring an elevated take on slim denim. Bluemarble injected a Y2K-inspired sensibility, reviving faded washes and vintage hues that recall early-2000s subcultures, while Prada’s vision aligned with the resurgence of the ‘Indie Sleaze’ movement, pairing slim trousers with relaxed velvet blazers for a nonchalant, rock-and-roll inspired aesthetic.
In order to ace this trend, balancing proportions is key. Pairing slim jeans with structured outerwear or oversized knitwear ensures a fresh, wearable contrast. Furthermore, distressed finishes, deep indigo washes and tailored cuts in premium denim can cater to both casual and elevated styling.
Ushering in the West
The spirit of the American West continues well into the Fall/Winter 2025 menswear season as well, but what makes the trend stand out this season is the fact that it is more nuanced than the usual cowboy aesthetics of the past. Instead of predictable Western tropes, designers have woven in subtle yet unmistakable references— think snap buttons, subtle panels over structured shoulder yokes, topstitching, suede and corduroy textures, denim and earthy hues. The cowboy boot remains a key element, though often reimagined with a contemporary twist.
Ralph Lauren, Willy Chavarria, and Louis Vuitton infused their collections with Western influences in sophisticated ways. Leather blousons, suede overshirts and checkered patterns made a strong appearance, offering a refined take on rustic style. Hermès leaned into its equestrian heritage, lining raincoats with cashmere horse blankets and crafting shirts and jeans from soft beige suede calfskin. Chavarria amplified the theme through oversized gingham shirts and corduroy tailoring, while Prada’s injected a modern flair with scuffed paisley cowboy boots and subtly embroidered two-tone sweaters.
For brands looking to integrate this trend, the key lies in paring down a bit— think contrasting indigo denim with warm ochre, experimenting with texture play or introducing Western-inspired silhouettes through structured outerwear and tactile finishes. The goal is to evoke the West without making it feel like a costume.
