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Bangladesh’s apparel exports to Saudi Arabia and Gulf Soar to new heights

Bangladesh’s garment industry is expanding its market reach beyond the traditional US and European markets, focusing on the Gulf region, including Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates (UAE), which have seen a significant rise in garment exports in the last financial year.

Figure: Bangladesh’s apparel exports to Saudi Arabia and Gulf Soar to new heights.

The industry, which accounts for 80% of the country’s exports and employs four million people, has been hit by a decline in sales in traditional markets since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, prompting a reorientation of the promotion strategy.

The country made $42.6 billion between July 2021-June 2022 from garment exports, with the EU and the US being the largest markets. The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association’s data reveals a surge in exports to the Gulf, with sales to Saudi Arabia rising by 40% to $125 million and to the UAE up by 21% to $183 million.

The country is positioning itself to capture the Middle East’s substantial apparel imports, with China and India being the major suppliers currently. The presence of a considerable number of Bangladeshi workers in the Gulf region presents another opportunity to promote and introduce Bangladeshi products.

Ring Shine Textiles’ losses widen in Q2

Ring Shine Textiles reported a decline in its financial performance for the October–December quarter of 2024, as the company’s losses deepened year-on-year.

The company’s earnings per share (EPS) stood at Tk 0.71 in the negative for October–December 2024, down from Tk 0.55 in the negative in the corresponding quarter of 2023.

For the six months from July to December 2024, its EPS fell further to Tk 1.50 in the negative, compared to Tk 1.41 in the negative in the same period of 2023, according to a filing on the Dhaka Stock Exchange website.

The yarn and fabric manufacturer’s net operating cash flow per share also worsened, standing at Tk 0.90 in the negative for July–December 2024, compared to Tk 0.36 in the negative in the same period of the previous year, indicating higher cash outflows in operations.

Meanwhile, the company’s net asset value per share dropped to Tk 9.50 in the negative as of December 31, 2024, from Tk 8.03 in the negative on June 30, 2024.

Ring Shine, a struggling textile manufacturer, has been facing financial challenges for years. The company, once a major player in the textile industry, has seen its operations weaken amid mounting losses and liquidity concerns.

BKMEA wants Tk7,000cr outstanding cash assistance from govt before Eid

The Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) has requested the Finance Division to release Tk7,000 crore in outstanding cash assistance for exports before Eid-ul-Fitr.

BKMEA President Mohammad Hatem made the request in a letter to Finance Secretary Md Khairuzzaman Mozumder today (4 March).

According to the letter, claims for approximately Tk7,000 crore in export subsidies or cash assistance have been submitted to the Bangladesh Bank for the 2024-25 financial year up until March 2025.

Hatem urged the Finance Division to take special measures to release the funds within the shortest possible time, preferably by the 15th of Ramadan, noting that delays could cause serious disruptions in the export sector.

In the letter, he stated that the country’s changed political situation, along with instability in the ready-made garment (RMG) industry, has created significant challenges for industrial establishments.

He noted that prolonged labour unrest in various industrial zones had severely disrupted production, leading to factory closures and an abnormal rise in production costs.

“But in order to maintain buyers’ confidence in the country’s export industry, RMG entrepreneurs have been forced to accept work orders at prices lower than actual production costs in many cases. Despite an increase in orders, many factories are facing a cash shortage,” the letter said.

The letter also highlighted the increasing pressure of salary and Eid bonus payments, warning that failure to meet these obligations could lead to renewed labour unrest.

Mohammad Hatem stressed that government support is crucial to maintaining stability and continuity in production.

Copies of the letter have been sent to the finance adviser, commerce adviser, labour and employment adviser, Bangladesh Bank governor, and the president of the Bangladesh Employers’ Federation.

Notably, the commerce ministry, in a recent report, flagged about 500 RMG factories as at risk of unrest over the payment of wages and festival allowances ahead of Eid-ul-Fitr.

The assessment report also identified 36 factories as particularly vulnerable to worker unrest and potentially in need of financial support to ensure timely payment of wages and festival allowances before the holidays.

Sweater factory workers stage demo in Savar demanding increased wages, other benefits

Production workers of a sweater factory staged a demonstration by blocking the Dhaka-Aricha Highway in Savar today (3 March) demanding an increase in wages, provision of leave benefits and allowance of festival bonuses.

Workers of Dynamic Sweater Industries Limited began their demonstration by blocking the highway at Savar’s Ulail Bazar area around 11am, causing tailback on both sides of the road, reports our correspondent.

After waging their protest for half an hour, the workers withdrew their blockade through the army’s intervention around 11:30am.

Although the agitated workers left the road, they threw brick chips at the nearby Anlima Textile Limited in a bid to force workers out of the factory and to join them on the streets. Law enforcers then dispersed them from the spot.

“The workers of Anlima factory detained two women during the violence and handed them over to us. We have rescued the two women,” said Additional Superintendent of Police of Dhaka District Police (Savar Circle) Md Shahinur Kabir.

When asked about the matter, the agitated workers said most of them work in production and recently the owners have started to pay them wages lower than they used to get previously.

The workers added that their factory does not pay them any leave benefits or festival bonuses.

As a result, they had been demonstrating for the past couple of days demanding these benefits. The owners were about to sit with them this morning, and instead of doing this, they closed down the factory, said the workers.

That is why the workers had come to the streets to realise their demands, workers further said.

Aklima, a linking operator of the factory, told TBS, “At present we get Tk21 per piece of our work instead of Tk26 that we used to get earlier. Although the cost of living increases day by day, the rate of our work just decreases. We even do not get any Eid bonus or leave allowance.”

“We wanted to talk to the owners about this, but instead of hearing us, they have closed down the factory for two days from today. That is why we have taken to the streets to raise our demands,” Aklima said.

Additional Superintendent of Police of Dhaka District Police (Savar Circle) Md Shahinur Kabir, who was present at the spot, said, “We have talked to the workers but their demands did not seem logical. However, we have talked to the factory owners and they have decided to sit with the workers. Based on this assurance, the agitating workers left the streets.”

The police officials further said the owners of Dynamic Sweater Industries Limited will sit with the workers at 2pm tomorrow (4 March).

Protest in Gazipur as 2,203 Keya Group workers laid off ahead of shutdown

A protest erupted in Gazipur’s Konabari area this morning (3 March) as 2,203 workers from two Keya Group factories were laid off ahead of a planned shutdown scheduled for 1 May. 

The workers demonstrated in front of the factory at 8:20am and later gathered at the main gate of Koya Cosmetics. 

Police from Gazipur Industrial Police and Konabari police station arrived at the scene to control the situation.

Officer-in-Charge (OC) of Konabari police station, GMPI, Nazrul Islam, said, “We are working at the scene and trying to control the situation by explaining things to the workers.”

On 2 January, the management of the Keya Group issued a notice announcing the permanent closure of four factories, including the Keya Group’s Knit Composite Division and MP Sweaters Limited, from 1 May. 

The closure was attributed to factors such as market instability, discrepancies with banks, a shortage of raw materials, and insufficient production capacity. 

The notice also stated that workers’ dues would be settled in accordance with labour law by May.

However, a notice signed by the chairman of the factories informed the workers today that 2,203 employees would be laid off two months ahead of the announced shutdown date. 

The notice reads, “Keya Cosmetics Limited (Knit Composite Division), MP Sweaters Limited, Zarun, Konabari, Gazipur, hereby informs all workers and employees that, in light of unresolved banking issues, they will be permanently released from service starting 1 March 2025, instead of the previously announced closure date of 1 May, 2025.”

The notice further mentioned that the laid-off workers’ dues would be paid within the next 30 working days as per labour law. It also stated that if the issues were resolved, the laid-off workers would be given priority for reemployment. However, disabled and pregnant female workers were exempt from this notice.

 When the workers arrived to start their shifts this morning, they found the layoff notice. 

The workers said that although the closure notice had been issued earlier, the sudden layoff of such a large number of employees came as a surprise.

They claimed that the management had not yet paid the dues of the laid-off workers, and the protest was in response to this failure to settle the payments.

Sabina Yasmin, the HR manager of Keya Group, said, “All laid-off workers will receive their dues according to labor law. Although the law requires payment within 30 working days, we plan to pay them by 24 March.”

She also explained, “We have been facing many problems for a long time due to banking issues. The bank is not cooperating with us, and the factory owner is currently in jail. The owner’s daughter has assured us that all dues will be settled on time.”

The official further added, “While the workers have been working until now, the current demand is that if the factory remains operational, everyone will work; if not, no one will. How can management address this? Right now, the workers want their wages, but how is that possible?”
 

500 RMG factories at risk of unrest over wages, bonuses before Eid-ul-Fitr

As many as 500 readymade garment (RMG) factories have been identified as at risk of facing unrest over the payment of wages and festival allowances ahead of Eid-ul-Fitr, according to commerce ministry sources.

An intelligence report based on factory financial assessments and submitted to the commerce ministry has pinpointed 500 factories facing potential difficulties, ministry officials have told TBS.

The report, seen by The Business Standard, also noted that about 200 factories are under close monitoring of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), industrial police and other intelligence agencies.

The report noted that 36 factories have been identified as highly vulnerable to worker unrest and may require financial support to pay their employees’ wages and festival allowances on time before the holidays.

According to BGMEA officials, some factories are facing financial difficulties due to several reasons, including last year’s worker unrest, energy crisis and order shortages.

The association has already formed 15 teams to monitor the industrial law and order situation in the lead-up to Eid-ul-Fitr, which will be celebrated at the end of March.

At the same time, it plans to request factory owners to pay workers’ Eid bonuses before the holidays.

The officials also mentioned that this year they will request factory owners to pay workers half of their March salary before the Eid vacation. However, this will depend on each factory’s financial capacity, they say.

The BGMEA officials say the request is likely to be made during a tripartite committee meeting involving the government, labour leaders and association leaders during Ramadan.

As per labour law, factory owners must pay workers’ wages within seven working days of the following month.

According to the BGMEA, a total of 28 factories have failed to pay their workers’ January salaries, and two factories have not cleared December salaries as of Thursday evening.

Another intelligence report

Another state-run intelligence report seen by TBS mentions that about 170 factories employing over 186,000 people are at high risk regarding paying workers’ Eid bonuses and monthly wages before the holidays.

Approximately 68,000 workers are employed at 41 of these factories in the Gazipur industrial zone.

The highest number of 57 factories are located in the Savar-Ashulia industrial zone, where over 60,000 people are employed.

The second highest number of 42 factories are located in the Dhaka zone, employing over 26,000 people.

The Chittagong zone has 17 factories with over 9,000 workers.

Seven factories in Narayanganj, four in Mymensingh and two factories in Tangail’s Ghatail employ over 8,500, 3,300 and 8,000 people respectively.

The report mentions that of the 170 factories, 128 have BGMEA membership while 16 are Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) members and only four textile mills are associated with the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA).

Nine factories are under the Bangladesh Export Zone Authority (Beza) and 13 are from other industries.

What have BGMEA, Industrial Police done? 

According to BGMEA officials, as in previous years, the Ministry of Home Affairs will hold a law and order meeting at the Secretariat ahead of Eid-ul-Fitr. The meeting, to be chaired by the home affairs adviser, will focus on ensuring the timely payment of wages and bonuses to workers.

Additionally, the Ministry of Labour will convene a tripartite meeting to issue directives for the disbursement of wages and bonuses before the Eid holidays.

To facilitate the process, a 30-member BGMEA team, divided into 15 groups, has identified several factories facing challenges and is working to resolve issues through discussions with workers.

To ease traffic congestion on highways, the BGMEA will request all its member factories to grant leave in phases. Factory owners will coordinate holiday schedules with their shipment plans and submit advance reports accordingly.

Furthermore, various state intelligence agencies are keeping certain self-proclaimed labour leaders under surveillance. These individuals have previously attempted to incite labour unrest by turning minor issues into major concerns.

The BGMEA has decided to set up a central control room on the ground floor of its headquarters.

Greater Dhaka has been divided into 15 zones, each with a committee comprising assistant directors, factory owners and BGMEA officials. These committees will work to prevent and resolve labour unrest in their respective areas.

Solutions are being devised based on the nature of the problems. To address these concerns, 15 BGMEA monitoring teams are working in the field round the clock.

As in previous years, the BGMEA is engaging with labourleaders to prevent any untoward incidents, labour unrest or disruption in the export-oriented garment industry. The meeting will be attended by the relevant adviser, secretary and representatives of law enforcement agencies.

Regional crisis committee

The government has formed a regional crisis committee comprising local public representatives, the Ministry of Labour, BGMEA, BKMEA, law enforcement agencies and labourleaders.

Additionally, to ensure a smooth disbursement of wages and allowances and facilitate the safe travel of workers during the Eid season, the BGMEA has urged the relevant district administrations and law enforcement agencies to take necessary measures.

According to a recent audit report by Hoda Vasi Chowdhury & Co, the BGMEA has 1,806 active member factories.

Of the active members, 1,482 are from the Dhaka zone and 324 are from the Chattogram zone.

Financial support

Talking with TBS, BKMEA President Mohammad Hatem emphasised that banks must cooperate with factory owners to help them pay workers. 

Citing an example, he said, “Recently, we communicated with the authorities to facilitate the release of Mahmud Denim’s pending cash incentive of Tk8.30 crore to pay its workers. Unfortunately, one bank adjusted the amount against its pending payments.”

The country’s exporters have pending cash incentive claims of over Tk5,000 crore. The Ministry of Finance should take the initiative to release these funds as it would help  the workers receive their wages and Eid benefits before the holidays.

The BKMEA president also mentioned that the association would write to the ministry, requesting the release of the funds by the second week of Ramadan.

Hatem added, “As we know, the interim government is pro-worker, and we hope it will take immediate steps to address these issues.”

Beximco Textiles: All factories closed, workers terminated

All factories under Beximco Textiles have been shut down and all workers terminated from 28 February.

The dues of workers from these factories will be paid in phases starting 9 March. The ministries of finance and labour will provide the funds, with the labour ministry directly responsible for disbursing the payments, according to a Beximco notice.

The decision was made at a meeting of the Advisory Council Committee on Reviewing the Labour and Business Situation of Industrial Establishments in Beximco Industrial Park, chaired by Labour and Employment Adviser Brig Gen (retd) M Sakhawat Hossain yesterday (26 February).  

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When asked about the matter last night, M Sakhawat Hossain declined to comment, saying the meeting’s decision would be announced at a press conference today (27 February).  

However, a Beximco Group official, speaking on condition of anonymity, told The Business Standard that Beximco Textiles Managing Director Osman Kaiser Chowdhury attended the Advisory Council committee meeting, where he signed the factory closure notice. TBS has obtained a copy of the notice.

The notice states that all officers, employees, and workers at 14 establishments, including Beximco Limited (excluding Yarn Unit-1) in Beximco Industrial Park, Kashimpur, Gazipur, were laid off under the Labour Act citing a lack of work, effective from 16 December and 5 February.  

The notice further states that due to the absence of work resources, all factory workers have been laid off from 28 February, with the company’s operations fully shut down. Laid-off workers will receive their dues in phases from 9 March in accordance with laws and regulations.  

A copy of the notice, signed on Wednesday, has been sent to the secretaries of the ministries of finance, labour, and industries, along with senior officials of relevant government and private agencies.  

According to Beximco Textiles, the company needs Tk550-600 crore to pay workers’ due wages in compliance with labour laws. Beximco had requested Tk400 crore in assistance to keep the factories running, but neither the government nor Janata Bank responded to the request.

Salman F Rahman, owner of the Beximco Group and former private industry and investment advisor to Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina, has been in jail since 13 August last year, a few days after the fall of the Hasina-led Awami League government. 

On 29 August, the Bangladesh Financial Intelligence Unit (BFIU) froze the bank accounts of Salman F Rahman, his son Ahmed Shayan Fazlur Rahman, and his daughter-in-law Shazreh Rahman.

On 18 September, the Criminal Investigation Department (CID) of Police filed 17 cases against 28 individuals from Beximco, including Salman F Rahman, on charges of laundering approximately Tk1,000 crore abroad under the guise of export trade.

A committee of the interim government had initially decided to sell shares of certain Beximco Group companies to pay off the workers’ dues. However, due to complications in the share sale, it was decided to pay the dues from government funds.

Following the fall of the Hasina government, 16 out of the 31 companies under the Beximco Industrial Park have been fully shut down. These companies have accumulated loans of Tk28,000 crore. Beximco Group announced factory layoffs due to a funding crisis and the inability to open letters of credit for importing raw materials.

Beximco Group claims that its Textiles and Apparel Division has been the highest exporter through Janata Bank for many years, with an average monthly export of $32 million over the past six years. In 2022, the average monthly export reached $59 million.

RMG exports to all markets rise in first half  of FY25

Ready-made garment (RMG) exports have apparently rebounded with a notable surge in shipments to all major markets in the first six months of the 2024-25 fiscal year. 

Exports to the European Union (EU), the United States, the United Kingdom, Canada, and other emerging markets have all increased. Except for the UK and emerging ones, all the markets registered growth over 10 per cent. 

The RMG exports totaled USD 19.89 billion during the July-December period of the fiscal year, which is up by 13.28 per cent from USD 17.56 billion of exports recorded in the same period previous year. 

Citing data from the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) noted that around 50 per cent of the total exports went to the European Union (EU) nations during the first six months of the current fiscal year. Exports to the EU reached USD 9.87 billion, which is 15.22 per cent higher than the previous year’s same period. 

Among EU countries, Germany, Spain, the Netherlands, France, Poland, Italy, and Denmark imported more than USD 500 million worth of Bangladeshi garments. Except for Spain and Italy, exports to all these countries grew by over 10 per cent.

Germany remained the top European market during the period, importing USD 2.47 billion worth of garments. The figure is 14 per cent higher than its imports in the previous year’s same period.

Meanwhile, exports to Spain reached USD 1.7 billion, France USD 1.09 billion, the Netherlands USD 1.06 billion, Poland USD 790 million, Italy USD 770 million, and Denmark USD 560 million. Among them, Poland saw the highest growth rate at 28 per cent, while Spain recorded the lowest at just under 3 per cent.

The US continued to be the largest market for Bangladesh as it accounted for 19-20 per cent of total RMG exports. The US imported RMG products worth USD 3.84 billion in the first half of the current fiscal year, which is 17.55 per cent higher than the previous year’s corresponding period. 

Apparel exporters are seeing increased export opportunities in the US market as president Donald Trump imposed tariffs on imports from Canada, Mexico and China.

According to them, an additional 10 per cent tariff has been placed on Chinese products, which is expected to prompt US buyers to shift their purchase orders away from China, and create opportunities for the Bangladesh exporters to receive more orders. 

Multiple traders told Prothom Alo that many US buyers had already started placing additional purchase orders even before the tariffs were imposed. The buyers are engaging in negotiations with factories and visiting Bangladesh to explore sourcing options.

Beyond the European Union and the United States, exports to the UK reached $2.16 billion in the first half of the current fiscal year, marking a 6.70 per cent rise compared to the same period last year. Exports to Canada totaled $640 million in the first half of the fiscal year, which is up by 14 per cent from the previous year’s corresponding period. 

Bangladesh is also performing well in emerging markets as it exported $3.37 billion worth of RMG products to these markets in the first half, compared to $3.13 billion in the same period last year.

Among the new markets, Japan was the largest importer of Bangladeshi RMG products during the July–December period, with imports totaling $600 million. Exports to the Asian country rose by 5.7 per cent compared to the same period in the previous year. 

Besides, exports to Australia reached $430 million, India $370 million, Korea $230 million, and Turkey $220 million. Growth rate was 7.5 per cent for exports to Australia, while 18 per cent for India, 2.84 percent for Korea, and 43 per cent for Turkey.

Mohammad Hatem, president of Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), told Prothom Alo that despite a rise in purchase orders, the key challenge is now the low price. Workers’ wages and other costs went up, but foreign buyers are offering lower prices than before. Hence,  many purchase orders are not being accepted.

In response to another query, the BKMEA president said the textile mills are struggling to operate due to gas and electricity shortages. Hence, many RMG industry owners are importing yarn from India, which is eventually weakening the local textile mills. 

He cited challenges over banking activities and law and order situations and feared that the positive trend in exports might not be retained had these internal issues not been addressed quickly. 

Experts call for accelerating energy transition in Bangladesh’s RMG sector

Major apparel-importing countries, including the European Union, are set to make the use of sustainable energy mandatory to ensure environmentally friendly production, said a press release.

As a result, experts have stressed that Bangladesh’s ready-made garments (RMG) sector must act now to increase the use of renewable energy to remain competitive in the global market.

At an event in Dhaka on Sunday, organised by Swisscontact Bangladesh, speakers emphasized the urgent need for energy transition in the RMG sector. The event was held to launch the ‘InSPIRE: Initiative to Stimulate Private Investment for Resource Efficiency’ project, supported by the Embassy of Sweden, and highlighted the importance of investment and technical support for renewable energy.

Speaking at the event, Jakob Granit, director general of the Swedish International Development Agency (SIDA), said, “The RMG sector is crucial for Bangladesh’s economy, but to comply with Europe’s strict environmental regulations, it must transition to renewable energy. Without this shift, competing in the global market will become increasingly difficult.”

He further added, “Our goal is to strengthen this sector through sustainable investments, ensuring that the ‘Made in Bangladesh’ label becomes a global symbol of sustainability and quality.”

Kjell Forsberg, head of Trade, Private Sector, and Financial Instruments at SIDA, stated, “Public funding alone cannot drive the green transition in the RMG sector. Private sector investment is necessary, and reducing financial risks is key to encouraging factories to adopt renewable energy solutions.”

Maria Stridsman, deputy head of Mission at the Embassy of Sweden, highlighted the economic benefits of energy efficiency, saying, “The cheapest and cleanest energy is the energy saved. If factories can reduce their energy consumption by even 10-20%, it will be a game-changer for both cost savings and sustainability.”

She further noted, “The InSPIRE project will not only promote renewable energy but also support female workers by enhancing their skills in new technologies. Future factories adopting green technology will also receive financial incentives.”

During the event, it was revealed that in FY 2023, the RMG sector contributed 10.35% to Bangladesh’s GDP and earned $45 billion in export revenue, marking a 10.27% increase from 2022. However, the sector still has high energy consumption and is responsible for 15.4% of the country’s total greenhouse gas emissions.

Participants in the panel discussion, “Greening Bangladesh’s RMG Sector: From Commitment to Action,” included Md Akhtar Hossain Apurba, Vice President of BKMEA; Md. Rezwan Selim, Member of BGMEA’s Support Committee; Md. Arfan Ali, Chairman of Zaytoon Business Solution; Ishtiaque Ahmed, Director of Engineering & Innovation at Solshare; and Rafia Sultana, Sustainability Manager at Kappahl, Deputy Director of Swisscontact Bangladesh Syeda Ishrat Fatema. The discussion highlighted the financial and technical challenges of transitioning the industry to renewable energy.

The InSPIRE project will primarily provide financial and technical assistance to export-oriented factories for energy transition operating in EPZs. Under the project, factories will be required to bear 60-70% of the total investment, and proposals will be invited by July 2025.

At the inauguration event, Swisscontact Bangladesh’s Country Director, Helal Hussain, delivered the welcome speech, while Mohammad Sakib Khaled, Senior Manager – Portfolio Development at Swisscontact Bangladesh, presented the project’s key aspects.

GLI calls for annual review of RMG workers’ wages in Bangladesh

Researchers from Cornell University’s Global Labor Institute (GLI) have urged the Bangladesh Government to implement an annual review and wage-setting process for garment workers, moving away from the current five-year cycle. The researchers highlighted that inflation rates have been eroding the purchasing power of workers earning the minimum wage, leading to significant income loss over the years.

Jason Judd, executive director of GLI, addressed journalists in Dhaka, stating that garment workers currently receive only a nine percent annual adjustment to their basic wages, primarily intended to offset inflation. However, he pointed out that actual inflation rates may exceed this adjustment, further disadvantageing workers.

The analysis criticised the longstanding minimum wage policy, which favours employers and does not adequately protect workers in the face of rising living costs. It also noted that the purchasing power of Bangladeshi workers is considerably lower compared to their counterparts in other apparel-producing countries.

In light of these findings, researchers called for a simplification of the minimum wage structure and an annual wage adjustment. They recommended that genuine trade union representatives, selected by labour federations, be appointed to the wage board to ensure fair representation in the wage-setting process.

The report referenced Cambodia’s successful overhaul of its wage-setting policy a decade ago, which resulted in regular wage growth alongside increased orders and production. The researchers suggested that Bangladesh adopt a similar approach by institutionalizing an annual review of minimum wages and planning the next review of the 2023-set minimum wage for 2025.

Additionally, the study advocated for explicit commitments from brands to support wage increases through higher prices, emphasizing the need to distinguish between genuine worker representatives and others in the wage-setting process. It also called for extending freedom of association and bargaining rights to workers in export processing zones to enhance democratic representation and strengthen wage enforcement efforts.

তালিকাভুক্ত বেশিরভাগ পোশাক কোম্পানি উচ্চ মুনাফা করেছে

পুঁজিবাজারে তালিকাভুক্ত বেশিরভাগ তৈরি পোশাক কোম্পানি চলতি অর্থবছরের অক্টোবর-ডিসেম্বর সময়ে উচ্চ মুনাফা করেছে। দেশের সামগ্রিক ব্যবসায়িক পরিবেশ ও চ্যালেঞ্জের মধ্যে বৈশ্বিক চাহিদা থাকায় কোম্পানিগুলো ভালো মুনাফা করতে পেরেছে বলে মনে করছেন খাত সংশ্লিষ্টরা।

তবে, যেসব কোম্পানি রপ্তানির পরিমাণ ও মূলধনের দিক দিয়ে তুলনামূলক বড়, তারা ভালো পারফরম্যান্স করলেও তবে ছোট কোম্পানিগুলোকে লড়াই অব্যাহত রাখতে হয়েছে।

তথ্য অনুযায়ী, এ খাতের তালিকাভুক্ত ৪০টি কোম্পানির মধ্যে ২৫টি উচ্চ মুনাফা করতে পারলেও ১৫টি প্রত্যাশা অনুযায়ী মুনাফা করতে পারেনি। তবে বহু বছর ধরে জেড ক্যাটাগরিতে থাকা ১৫টি কোম্পানি এখনো কোনো তথ্য প্রকাশ করেনি।

গত বছরের জুলাই-সেপ্টেম্বর প্রান্তিকে রাজনৈতিক অস্থিরতার পর ৪০টি কোম্পানির মোট মুনাফা ক্রমবর্ধমান প্রবণতার ধারাবাহিকতা দেখিয়েছে।

সন্ধানী অ্যাসেট ম্যানেজমেন্ট লিমিটেডের সংকলিত তথ্য অনুযায়ী, গত বছরের অক্টোবর থেকে ডিসেম্বর সময়ে তাদের মোট মুনাফা আগের বছরের চেয়ে ৫০ শতাংশ বেড়ে ১৯৭ কোটি টাকায় দাঁড়িয়েছে।

শাশা ডেনিমস লিমিটেডের ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালক শামস মাহমুদ বলেন, ২০২৩ সাল থেকে বেতন বৃদ্ধি ও জ্বালানির দাম প্রায় দ্বিগুণ হওয়ার পর থেকে তৈরি পোশাক খাত সমস্যার মুখোমুখি হচ্ছে।

তিনি বলেন, সে বছর সিদ্ধান্ত হয়েছিল তৈরি পোশাক শ্রমিকদের বার্ষিক মজুরি নয় শতাংশ বৃদ্ধি পাবে, আগে যা ছিল পাঁচ শতাংশ। একই সঙ্গে এন্ট্রি লেভেলের একজন পোশাক শ্রমিকের ন্যূনতম মজুরি আট হাজার টাকা থেকে বাড়িয়ে ১২ হাজার ৫০০ টাকা করা হয়।

তিনি আরও বলেন, তবে অনেক কোম্পানি, বিশেষ করে ছোট প্রতিষ্ঠানগুলো এই ব্যয় বৃদ্ধির ধাক্কা সামলাতে পারেনি। গত বছর রাজনৈতিক ও শিল্প অস্থিরতা এবং বন্যার কারণে উৎপাদন বাধাগ্রস্ত হওয়ায় তাদের অবস্থার আরও অবনতি হয়েছে।

তার ভাষ্য, ‘সর্বোপরি, কারখানাগুলোতে পর্যাপ্ত গ্যাস ও বিদ্যুৎ সরবরাহ করা হয়নি, তাই বেশিরভাগই ‘গভীর সমস্যায়’ পড়েছে। কেবল বড় কোম্পানিগুলো এই ধাক্কা সামলাতে পেরেছে, তারা রপ্তানি আদেশ ধরে রেখেছে এবং সঠিকভাবে পণ্য সরবরাহ করতে পেরেছে।’

রপ্তানি উন্নয়ন ব্যুরোর তথ্য অনুযায়ী, চলতি অর্থবছরে বাংলাদেশের তৈরি পোশাক রপ্তানি আগের বছরের চেয়ে ১৩ দশমিক ২৮ শতাংশ বেড়ে ১৯ দশমিক ৮৮ বিলিয়ন ডলারে দাঁড়িয়েছে।

এনভয় টেক্সটাইল লিমিটেডের মুনাফা বেড়েছে ১৬১ শতাংশ, স্কয়ার টেক্সটাইল লিমিটেডের ৫৮ শতাংশ এবং মালেক স্পিনিং মিলস লিমিটেডের মুনাফা বেড়েছে ২২ শতাংশ।

শামস মাহমুদ বলেন, বড় কোম্পানিগুলো তাদের আর্থিক সক্ষমতা ব্যবহার করে ধাক্কা কাটিয়ে উঠতে পেরেছে। কারণ বড় কোম্পানিগুলোর কাছে সাধারণত নগদ অর্থ থাকে এবং তারা প্রয়োজনে সহযোগী কোম্পানি থেকে অর্থ ধার নিতে পারে। তাদের ব্যাংক ঋণের ওপর নির্ভরশীলতা কম।

স্পিনাররা ধুঁকছেন

এ খাতের কোম্পানিগুলোর আর্থিক অবস্থা বিশ্লেষণ করে দেখা যায়, স্পিনিং মিলগুলো সবচেয়ে বেশি হিমশিম খাচ্ছে।

শামস মাহমুদ জানান, গ্যাস সরবরাহ সংকটে বিপাকে পড়েছে স্পিনিং মিলগুলো। তারা ভালো করতে না পারায় চাহিদা মেটাতে ভারত থেকে সুতা আমদানি করতে হয়েছে।

বাংলাদেশের টেক্সটাইল খাতে ২০২৪ সালে মুনাফা ওঠানামা করেছে। এটি মূলত বৈশ্বিক বাণিজ্যের চ্যালেঞ্জ, মূল্যস্ফীতির চাপ এবং চাহিদার পরিবর্তনের ধরনের কারণে হয়েছে। কিছু কোম্পানি স্থিতিশীলতা দেখাতে পারলেও বাকিরা মুনাফা ধরে রাখতে লড়াই করেছে।

RMG BANGLADESH NEWS