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Western retailer groups warn 37 apparel makers of severing ties Failure to address safety concerns blamed

Two western retailer groups – Accord and Alliance – have warned 37 local apparel makers of severing business ties with them for their failure to timely address safety concerns in line with Corrective Action Plans (CAPs), industry insiders said. After initial inspection, both the groups conducting follow-up assessment in their respective listed factories have identified those units where the remedial work is not satisfactory and issued non-compliance letters, they added. The Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety, led mostly by European buyers, warned some 28 out of 224 factories where it carried out follow-up inspections (fire, electrical and structural) till February 2015. But the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, another group led mostly by North American buyers, issued non-compliance letters to some nine units after it found the remedial work there unsatisfactory, people involved with the process said. “If no action is taken following this letter and the Accord doesn’t see adequate progress, the signatory companies in the factory will need to invoke the provisions of the Accord related to non-compliance with required remediation,” according to a recent report posted on the Accord’s website. “Such provisions include termination of business relations and public disclosure of non-compliance on the Accord website,” it warned. Till November last year, the Accord issued non-compliance letters to 13 units while 15 more factories were put on the list during the period between December 2014 and February 2015, Accord Executive Director Rob Wayss told the FE. In reply to a query, he said all the 28 factories responded immediately after issuing the warning while the previous 13 factories already identified immediate requirements. Terming the remediation a continuous process, Mr Wayss said, “But they need to continue the work.” Accord Chief Safety Inspector Brad Loewen explained that the letters were issued as they failed to comply with the CAPs requirements including issues of keeping the exits locked or using the collapsible gates within the deadline. The ministry of labour in January 2013 issued a circular, asking all the garment factory owners to replace collapsible gates by sliding gates or others of this kind that can easily be opened from outside. The Accord shared the issue with respective buyers, labour representatives along with the factory management, Mr Loewen added. However, the Alliance talked with its listed factories where its engineers were not satisfied with the remediation after their follow-up inspections and gave them two weeks, people involved with the process said. The group issued non-compliance letters to nine units finding that in some cases, only two per cent of the remedial work had been done, they said, adding that they were given two more weeks. It would go for termination of business if they fail to comply with the requirements. When asked, Alliance Managing Director M Rabin declined to make any comment in this regard and asked the FE correspondent to talk to the apparel apex body – BGMEA. While contacted, Vice President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Md Shahidullah Azim said the association was not officially informed anything about it. Responding to a query, he admitted that if the remediation is two per cent and not up to the desired level, it reflects the ill-motive of the factory management. “But if they are on the process or have identified the requirements up to 10-15 per cent, it reveals good gesture.” Buyers would not place orders to the factories which were not carrying out the remedial work, he noted. “But the deadline should be counted immediately after the fund is available as many factories could not meet all the requirements due to fund crisis,” he said and suggested that the groups inform the apex body of their observations so that BGMEA can consult with that particular factories.

Source: https://www.thefinancialexpress-bd.com/2015/05/20/93340

Concord launches denim brand styled ‘Freestyler’

Concord launched a new denim brand styled “Freestyler” aiming at conveying new expression in country’s fashion market. The brand was launched for playing significant role in meeting the growing demand of fashion loving kids, teenagers and aged people. Concord has brought the new brand eyeing to save huge foreign currencies by meeting the demand for denim locally reducing the country’s dependence on imported item. At present, a lion share of the market is captured by foreign brand, company officials informed. Concord started its journey immediately after the Independence to rebuild the war affected country. Since then, the company has been making remarkable contributions to infrastructure development, construction, recreation and also in many other fields, officials said. To earmark of the 40th anniversary, Concord has launched some new venture. In 1983, Concord started its journey in readymade garments industry by launching a company namely Jeacon Garments Limited. Later, keeping the necessity in the mind and with a view to maintain incessant growth, Concord established another garments unit named Concord Fashion Export Limited. To widen its production line, the company has taken the new initiative to produce 50,000 pieces of readymade garments per month aiming at raising total production to above 3 lakh pieces per month.

Source: https://www.daily-sun.com/print/business/2015/05/19/503970#sthash.dFFcVTbo.dpuf

Japan keen to establish economic zone in Matarbari

Japan has expressed interest to establish an economic zone at Matarbari in Moheshkhali seeing the future prospects of Japanese investment there. Besides, China has also sought 50-year land lease agreements and uninterrupted utility supplies to the economic zones they seek to establish in Bangladesh. Sources at the Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority (BEZA) said a Japanese delegation comprising JICA officials and Japanese investors expressed their interest to establish an economic zone in Matarbari during a meeting with the BEZA authority on Sunday. The government has already taken initiatives to establish a 1,200 MW coal-fired power plant at Matarbari in Moheshkhali and signed agreements with Japan, Germany and Australia to implement the mega project. BEZA sources said they are yet to get the approval for establishing Japanese economic zone in Matarbari and primary work for getting the approval was under process. Earlier, Japanese delegation had visited three sites in Narsingdi, Narayanganj and Sreepur in Gazipur as potential sites for establishing economic zones for the Japanese investors. “The number of Japanese economic zones to be established here will be confirmed by the end June,” said Malay Chowdhury, Deputy Secretary and General Manager of BEZA. The Chinese government is primarily planning to establish two economic zones at Anwara in Chittagong. They have already sought uninterrupted utility supply to the proposed economic zones. During a meeting with BEZA officials on Sunday, a Chinese delegation comprising officials of Chinese Embassy and Chinese businessmen said they will submit a paper naming all the facilities they want for establishing the economic zones here. While talking to daily sun, Malay Chowdhury said they will provide all the facilities to the foreign investors as per the BEZA act. He also said they will provide modern out-site infrastructure facilities to the investors so that they can operate their business smoothly. Mentionable, the government is planning to set up a total of 100 special economic zones in different parts of the country by the year 2030 with a view to fetch more foreign investment and generate thousands of new jobs. The economic zones will be set up on around 75,000 acres of land under the supervision of Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority (BEZA). BEZA has already got approval for establishing 22 economic zones across the country. The economic zones include the one at Sreepur in Gazipur, Sabrang Tourism SEZ in Cox’s Bazar, Anwara SEZ-2 in Chittagong, Dhaka IT SEZ at Keraniganj, one each in Jamalpur, Narayanganj, Bhola, Ashuganj, Panchagarh, Narsingdi, Manikganj, Kushtia, Barisal, and Nilphamari, a private economic zone in Narsingdi, Abdul Monem Private Economic Zone in Munshiganj, a private special economic zone in Munshiganj, Mirsarai special economic zone, Anwara Economic Zone, Srihatta Economic Zone and two economic zones in Moulvibazar and Mongla. Of the economic zones, four were given to private sector and one to Bangladesh Tourism Board.

Source: https://www.daily-sun.com/print/back-page/2015/05/19/503989#sthash.RubaXIp9.dpuf

Rationale for a hike in tax rates for RMG sector

Tax resource mobilisation in Bangladesh has been unsatisfactory and much lower than that of other countries at a similar stage of economic and social development. With the limited sources of tax revenue (mainly value added tax or VAT domestic and income tax) and gradual reduction in import-based revenue, it has become more essential for the government to increase its tax base and areas of revenue generation. Despite being the most dynamic and profitable sector of Bangladesh, it is a fact that the readymade garments (RMG) sector remains the most under-taxed one. The export basket of Bangladesh is dominated by RMG, accounting for almost 80 per cent of its total export earnings. By taking advantage of an insulated external market under the provision of Multi-Fibre Agreement (MFA), complemented by the right support policies at home, it attained a high profile, in terms of foreign exchange earnings, exports, industrialisation and contribution to gross domestic product (GDP) within a short span of time. During the last five years, exports of RMG have grown by an average of 15 per cent. This growth has been partly achieved owing to preferential treatment from the European Union’s (EU’s) Generalised System of Preferences or GSP and Rules of Origin (ROO) facilities and the Duty-Free Quota-Free (DFQF) access granted by Canada, Japan, Australia etc. The sector currently contributes to about 16 per cent of Bangladesh’s GDP. Estimates suggest that there are more than four thousand garment factories in the country employing more than four million workers. Given its status as a critical export sector for Bangladesh, it enjoys various fiscal incentives—cash incentives, duty drawback and bonded warehouse facility—from the government. Tax at source on export of knitwear, woven garment and other selected sectors is considered as final settlement and the sectors need not pay any other taxes. For nearly two decades, the RMG sector was exempt from all taxes until a tax of 0.25 per cent on export receipts was levied in FY 2005. The tax at source was raised subsequently to 0.4 per cent in 2011, 0.6 per cent in 2012 and 0.8 per cent in 2013. Until 2014, the tax at source for apparel item exporters was 0.80 per cent on their export proceeds. However, in April, 2014, National Board of Revenue (NBR) reduced the tax at source to 0.30 per cent that would continue until June 30, 2015 in a bid to increase competitiveness of the sector in the international market in a situation of rising costs faced by it and the political turmoil that ensued in the country. The NBR assessed that reduction of tax at source on export of RMG products would cost at least Tk 20 billion (2000 crore) in revenue. Alternative scenarios involving different rates of profit and their respective turnover tax rates are given in Table.2. If we assume an average profit of 10 per cent on RMG exports’ turnover and the top income tax rate of 30 per cent of taxes, the turnover tax will stand at 3.0 per cent. Even if we were to consider the 30 per cent income tax is charged on a mere 3.0 per cent profit rate, it will result in a turnover tax rate of 0.9 per cent which is still quite meagre in amount. A report published in 2007 stated that share of profits of the RMG industry enjoyed by the garments factory owners were well above 25 per cent. The current tax rate of 0.3 per cent is far too less given the profit margins of RMG producers and has resulted in significant revenue losses for the NBR. In two main competitors of Bangladesh in the RMG sector — neighbouring countries India and Pakistan — corporate taxes have to be paid by the enterprises in the sector. The RMG producers in Bangladesh are not subject to any corporate taxes. The corporate tax rate currently stands at 30 per cent in India and 35 per cent in Pakistan which is uniform for all businesses. Thus despite exhibiting its massive potential for generating revenue for the government, the taxes levied on to the RMG sector are minimal in the light of their expected profit margins. This also appears discriminatory when compared to other sectors and with taxation in competing countries. Herein lies the rationale and scope for higher taxation of income of RMG producers and exporters. (The writer is Saeba Ruslan, Senior Research Associate, PRI. FE-PRI Economic Analysis Unit).
Source: https://www.thefinancialexpress-bd.com/2015/05/19/93168

Accord warns 28 RMG factories of cutting business ties

Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety, a platform led by the European brands and retailers, has warned of cutting business relations with 28 factories for their failure to make satisfactory progress with the remediation work. In a recent report, the Accord said that they have sent a total of 224 follow-up inspection reports (fire, electrical and structural) to the factory, related company signatories and union signatories. Out of 224 factories, Accord issued non-compliance letters for 28 where remedial works for ensuring safety were not satisfactory. According to the Accord aggregate report, the engineers of the platform generated a detailed report and updated the Corrective Action Plans under the follow-up inspection and the detailed report was sent to the factory, related company signatories and union signatories. ‘In cases where the Accord engineers are not satisfied with the remediation work of the factory, the Lead Engineer issues a non-compliance letter to the factory, the company signatories and labour signatories,’ the Accord said. If the factories do not take any action following the letters and the Accord does not see adequate progress, the signatory companies and the factory will be required to invoke the provisions of the Accord related to non-compliance with required remediation. ‘Such provisions include termination of business relations and public disclosure of the noncompliance on the Accord website,’ the retailers group said. Accord officials declined to disclose the names of the factories and said the platform is working with the companies closely and if the factories finally failed to make any progress then the names will be disclosed as disqualified. Shahidullah Azim, vice-president of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and exporters Association, told New Age that the Accord did not send any list of the factories that have failed to make headway in remediation work to the Association. ‘Perhaps, the progress in some medium factories are slow due to fund crisis and Accord should start countdown factories for announcing them noncompliant after providing necessary funds,’ he said. Earlier in March, the Accord announced a local apparel making company Mega Chois Knitwear Ltd disqualified for producing cloths for the Accord signatory due to noncompliance. The retailers group had said in their disclosure that Accord engineers identified serious fire safety lapses in Mega Chois Knitwear Ltd located at Ashulia and asked the authorities to evacuate the building temporarily for necessary remedial works, but the factory owner refused to comply. Meanwhile, BGMEA President Atiqul Islam has recently sent a letter to the commerce ministry alleging that the Accord is creating problems for some factories with threats to declare them non-compliant and thereby destroy their export business. Atiqul in his letter alleged that improving worker safety in the garment factories where the Accord signatory companies source apparel products is the job of the Accord but the platform has got engaged in some activities which are beyond the purview of worker safety. The BGMEA president urged commerce minister Tofail Ahmed to look into the situation seriously and take appropriate measures to keep the Accord activities within the bounds of the law of the land.

Source: https://newagebd.net/121008/accord-warns-28-rmg-factories-of-cutting-business-ties/#sthash.wb8xF88z.dpuf

Mujibul: US envoy to recommend tariff cuts on RMG import

US ambassador will place a report (on workers’ safety and rights) to the US congressmen. She will seek to reduce tariff on import of Bangladeshi RMG products State Minister for Labour and Employment Mujibul Haque said the US ambassador to Bangladesh would inform the US congressmen about the improvements in workers’ safety and rights status in Bangladesh garment industry and ask for cutting tariff on the RMG import. “US ambassador will place a report (on workers’ safety and rights) to the US congressmen. She will seek to reduce tariff on import of Bangladeshi RMG products,” he told journalists at his office yesterday after the US envoy Marcia Bernicat paid a courtesy call to him. Mujibul said the US diplomat sought to know about the present situations of trade unionism, labour rights and factory inspections in the garment industry. “She has been updated about the status and current priorities.” “I also inform her about what initiatives have been taken to improve working environment in the clothing industry and ensure workers’ safety and rights after the tragic Rana Plaza incident,” the state minister added. Currently the US importers of Bangladeshi RMG products have to pay about 16% duty, which is much higher compared to other competitor countries. Mujibul said the GSP issue was also discussed in the meeting and the envoy observed that most of the conditions imposed by the US government to restore the trade facility have been met by Bangladesh except the workers’ rights. “We have told the envoy that all the conditions outlined by the US government have been addressed,” the state minister said. After the meeting, Marcia Bernicat also talked to the journalists. In reply to a question about migrants crisis, the US ambassador said: “We are working with the Bangladesh government and other countries related with the ongoing migrant issue. The US was also working on providing humanitarian assistance.” Labour and Employment Secretary Mikail Shipar was also present as the envoy called on the state minister.

Source: https://www.dhakatribune.com/business/2015/may/18/mujibul-us-envoy-recommend-tariff-cuts-rmg-import#sthash.FhDnJOIu.dpuf

Fire at jacket factory in CEPZ

A fire broke out at store room of a jacket factory inside Chittagong Export Processing Zone (CEPZ) early Sunday. Origination of the fire and damages in it could not be ascertained immediately, said Assistant Director (AD) Md Yahia of Fire Service and Civil Defence department in Chittagong. Fire Service Control Room sources said a fire broke out in a store room on the first floor of the five-storey jacket factory building of Youngone at around 3:50am.
The fire spread fast engulfing the whole store and gutted documents, cutting and padding machines, raw materials and furniture, they said. Ten fire fighting units from different fire stations rushed to the spot and doused the fire after over four hours effort, said the sources.

Source: https://www.daily-sun.com/print/metropolis/2015/05/18/503844#sthash.oDfSbv0w.dpuf

RMG Export to US Bernicat to write to US Congressmen for tariff cut

US Ambassador to Bangladesh Marcia Stephens Bloom Bernicat will write to the US Congressmen seeking tariff reduction on export of Bangladeshi garments products to the country. State Minister for Labour and Employment Mujibul Haque Chunnu told the media that the US Ambassador assured him of it when she paid a courtesy call on him at the ministry on Sunday afternoon. “The US envoy has assured me that she would send a letter to the Congressmen of her country, asking for tariff cut for export of Bangladeshi apparel to US,” Chunnu said. “This will be a bigger opportunity than that of the generalized system of preference [GSP],” the state minister quoted the US ambassador as saying. The current rate of tariff on export of Bangladeshi apparel to US is 16 percent. Chunnu said they discussed the issues like factory inspection, workers’ rights and trade union registration. “During the discussion, I raised the GSP issue. Bernicat said that Bangladesh has fulfilled most of the conditions, excepting a few, for getting back the GSP facilities,” he said. However, the state minister said Bangladesh has already fulfilled all the conditions for regaining the GSP status. Replying to a query about human trafficking, Chunnu said, “Around 12 to 15 lakh people are entering the country’s job market every year. It is true that we cannot provide job to all of them…but illegal human trafficking can no way be accepted.” “I think there is a syndicate who is trafficking innocent people by duping them with fake job offers. The government is conscious of it. The home ministry has taken steps to identify those who are involved in human trafficking,” he said. Regarding human trafficking, the US Ambassador said, “It is a big issue. The US government is working on the issue. We are also working with Bangladesh government and all other countries concerned in this regard.” Labour Secretary Mikail Shipar was also present during the meeting.

Source: https://www.daily-sun.com/print/back-page/2015/05/18/503871#sthash.yKBKWar1.dpuf

US envoy willing to lobby Congress for garment tariff cut

The US ambassador in Dhaka Sunday expressed her willingness to pursue the cause of tariff reduction for Bangladesh’s apparel products with the Congress, junior labour minister said. “The US ambassador has told us that she will submit a report to the congressmen for reducing the tariff on Bangladeshi made apparel products,” state minister for labour Mujibul Haque told the reporters after a meeting with Marcia Stephens Bloom Bernicat at his secretariat office in the city. At the meeting, the junior minister raised the issue of GSP (generalised system of preferences), a trade benefit for which Bangladesh is no longer eligible. “The tariff issue is more important than the GSP,” the junior minister quoted the envoy as saying. Bangladesh’s apparel exports face average 16 per cent duty in the US market, he said “We’ve discussed the factory inspection, trade union registration and labour rights,” Mr Haque said, adding Bangladesh has met all the conditions in line with the US action plan. But some labour rights issues still need to be addressed, he added.   In June 2013, the US has suspended the GSP for Bangladesh, citing poor working condition and labour rights. Later, the US provided a 16-point action plan including recruitment of additional inspectors, factory inspection and publicly accessible database for the garment sector. Responding to a question over the human trafficking, the junior minister said each year some 1.2 to 1.5 million people join the workforce, many of whom cannot be absorbed into the job market. “There are vested quarters, who are engaged in human trafficking with false commitments,” he added. Responding to a question over human trafficking, the US envoy said, “We’re working with Bangladesh government and other regions involved as well as providing humanitarian support.” Labour Secretary Mikail Shipar and Inspector General of Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishments Syed Ahmed, among others, were present in the meeting.

Source: https://www.thefinancialexpress-bd.com/2015/05/18/93055

No first aid facility in 35pc of RMG units DIFE survey finds

Thirty-five per cent of the readymade garment factories in the country lack first aid facility and required equipment for the purpose, according to a recent survey conducted by the Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishments. The survey conducted in 643 apparel factories in the January-March period found that 67 per cent of the factories did not serve accident-related notice while 46 per cent of them did not maintain safety record books and safety boards. A labour rights activist said that the government survey proved that the existing labour law was not effective in the garment sector and in reality workers remained hapless. ‘A large number of workers has been deprived of health care support in their workplace as the government survey stated that there was no first aid facility in 35 per cent of garment factories,’ Roy Ramesh Chandra, secretary general of industriAll Bangladesh Council, told New Age. The survey report reflected the level of implementation of the existing law and improvement of the workers’ rights in the garment sector, he said. ‘Now, the government should take responsibility of implementing the labour law in the industrial sector as it is proved that factory owners are not respectful to laws,’ Ramesh said. According to the survey report, 356 of the 643 factories surveyed are affiliated with the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, 129 are members of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association and 158 are not affiliated with any trade body. As per the labour act, first aid appliances and facilities are mandatory for every establishment with the contents prescribed by rules and in every establishment wherein three hundred or more workers are ordinarily employed, there must be provided and maintained a sick room with dispensary of the prescribed size. The BGMEA, however, differed with the DIFE survey and said there were first aid facilities in more than 80 per cent of their member factories while the DIFE found the facilities in 70 per cent of the BGMEA member factories. BGMEA vice-president Sahidullah Azim claimed that the report of the trade body was authentic and he did not agree with the findings of the government survey. The DIFE survey found that 31 per cent of the surveyed factories did not comply with the provision of maternity leave and allowance stipulated in the labour act. According to the survey, 55 per cent of the factories have no participation committee while 44 per cent have no safety committee. Syed Ahmed, inspector general of the DIFE, said that the factories remained under monitoring and the department would take legal action against the factories which would fail to ensure compliance.

Source: https://newagebd.net/120489/no-first-aid-facility-in-35pc-of-rmg-units/#sthash.I3AS8zEf.dpuf

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