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RMG: Learning from the Chinese example

The 2014 Dhaka Apparel Summit (December 07-08) marks a watershed in setting ambitions for the future of Bangladesh’s textile and garment industry. Our research indicates an annual efficiency savings opportunity in Bangladesh worth over one billion dollar that, if seized, could give the industry a powerful modernisation impulse. The world’s #2 sourcing hotspot after China, Bangladesh’s USD 22 billion textile and garment industry is the country’s main export engine, and already makes an important contribution to national development. To fully contribute to Bangladesh’s goal of becoming a middle income country by 2021 and reach USD 50 billion in exports by then, the industry now needs to both build on its existing comparative advantages as well as keep innovating to resolve its longstanding challenges in terms of sustainable development. STRONG MOMENTUM HAS KEPT BUILDING IN THE AFTERMATH OF RANA PLAZA: After the collapse of the eight-story Rana Plaza factory in April 2013, an impressive group of players has come together to take action to address the industry’s deep safety problems. Ranging from international fashion brands and domestic producers to international organisations, government, and NGOs, all are motivated to make sure that such an accident does not happen again. The Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety, the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, and the National Tripartite Plan of Action on Fire, Electrical Safety and Physical Integrity in the RMG sector of Bangladesh (NAP) have inspected several thousand factories since. They have done a remarkable job in showing what needs to be fixed at the factory level. This is a major step forward on the vision to which, for example, the Accord’s signatories committed, namely “the goal of a safe and sustainable Bangladeshi Ready Made Garment (RMG) industry in which no worker needs to fear fires, building collapses, or other accidents that could be prevented with reasonable health and safety measures.” RECONCILING GREATER COMPETITIVENESS WITH SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL PERFORMANCE IS CRUCIAL: Fire and building safety are just a few of the many and disparate social, environmental and economic issues that need addressing. Given the industry’s growth ambitions and its infrastructure deficits, we will all need to be very strategic and engineer a systemic solution. As I argued in the report, Creating Sustainable Apparel Value Chains which was released in December 2013 by Impact Economy, the global impact investment and strategy firm, and made available to BGMEA (Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association) members in Bengali, the problems are diverse and wide-ranging, but they nonetheless all meet at the manufacturing stage. Ground-breaking progress toward the overall vision of a sustainable apparel industry in Bangladesh requires achieving a win-win outcome of raising productivity and competitiveness, as well as social and environmental performance. This includes fire and building safety, as well as several other key levers, such as:

” Fostering total resource productivity and transparency across the supply chain;

” Upgrading industry infrastructure by (impact) investing;

” Improving working conditions with a new level of ambition; and

” Studying and replicating the best practices of leading producers.

THE SOLUTION REQUIREMENTS HAVE BECOME CLEAR: At Impact Economy, we were delighted to see that the IFC, the ILO, the Global Green Growth Forum and many others have enthusiastically incorporated these key recommendations of the report into their own strategic thinking and initiatives. Now is the time to drive real progress by designing solutions and implementation platforms that are able to achieve this triple win of greater productivity, a better environmental footprint, and higher social performance not just at the level of demonstration projects, but across the board. Such solutions need to:

* Drive the upgrades in the factories which help achieve competitiveness as well as higher social and environmental performance

* Mobilise capital from multiple sources

* Be financially attractive to the local producer and “factory owned” rather than only retailer or regulator enforced

* Minimise credit default and execution risk

* Become scalable across the industry and go viral

MAKING IMPLEMENTATION WORK IS KEY: In a country where over 5,000 factories produce for export, a powerful contribution to Vision 2021 means implementing factory improvement programmes which are practical, scalable and cost-effective. This means targeting the low-hanging fruit – measures that are easy to implement and cost-efficient. The business case is there. In our research, the top seven simple resource efficiency measures implemented in a model factory cost only USD 83,000, and were hardly ‘rocket science’, including eliminating water leaks from tubes and pipes, reusing cooling water from dyeing operations, process water from rinsing, recovering water from bleaching, reusing heat from drying operations and caustic soda or improving liquor ratio. Yet, they unlocked input savings in excess of USD 500,000 annually. Dedicating resources to improving working conditions can further strengthen the win-win situation, including measures to strengthen productivity, improve labour agreements and working contracts, optimise quality control systems, human resource management as well as decision-making practices. To make such upgrading happen across the board, we will need to design incentive structures that are attractive to factory owners, deliver real benefits for workers, and minimise bureaucracy and management attention for people who, after all, are busy running a competitive business. At Impact Economy, we are convinced that combining impact investing and efficient procurement will be the key forward strategy, and just the complement that is needed to the several development finance-funded initiatives under way such as PaCT or the GTSF programme. THE UPSIDE IS TREMENDOUS: Rana Plaza has made one thing clear: business as usual is no longer sufficient. A more ambitious health and safety track record needs to be built. The enormous opportunity to reach greater value added and sustainability is not yet fully appreciated though. Extrapolating from our research at the factory level to the overall cluster of factories indicates an annual savings potential of up to USD 2.6 billion in Bangladesh. If we conservatively assume to unlock one third of the potential, this would result in input cost savings of USD 860 million every year. In monetary terms, this would be roughly equivalent to the costs of the Rural Electricity Transmission and Distribution Project of the World Bank of 2014-2020 (estimated to cost USD 837 million in total). Just think about the impulse to development. IT IS TIME TO MOVE FORWARD: The time to act is now. Supply chain issues will soon start to become much more relevant to all textile and garment producing countries. As Bangladesh defines its ambition level and strategies to act upon it, it is worth to look further north to the Chinese textile and garment industry. With more than 100,000 manufacturers employing over 10 million people, and successful national brands eyeing international expansion, the changes occurring in the industry in China are tied in large part to the broader social and economic context of the country. China has experienced tremendous economic growth and urbanisation over the past thirty years; some project the rapidly growing middle- and upper-income segments to encompass 75 per cent of the Chinese population by 2025 as a result. These consumers are becoming more demanding in terms of the quality of different types of products. And demand beyond just the wealthiest Chinese consumers is swelling at increasingly fast rates as hundreds of millions of Chinese step out of poverty, and the most successful Chinese brands are bound to go East and West. China has raised its ambition level in terms of the industry’s sustainability, which is listed under China’s national five-year plan for prevention and control of environmental risk of chemicals as a “key industry for regulatory control.” Bangladesh can take ideas from this success story and ask how it can deliver similar or better results in its market economy setting. I agree with former Goldman Sachs chief economist Jim O’Neill, who argues that the densely populated and youthful Bangladesh has the potential to become one of the world’s most vibrant economies, and has included Bangladesh in his “Next Eleven” group of countries that he expects to lead the next wave of high-growth economies. It is now time to bridge the gap between reality and ambition so that Bangladesh can indeed become the high-growth economy that benefits the population at large. With cooperation, innovation, and smart approaches to financing, a modern, competitive, and sustainable textile and garment industry could become one of the finest ingredients as Bangladesh brings its middle income formula to life.

Envoy profit quadruples as clothing orders pour in

Envoy Textiles’ net profit rose more than four times to Tk 17.46 crore between October and December, compared to the same period a year ago, as global retailers placed more orders with the company. Demand from buyers grew thanks to a stable business environment that prevailed in the first quarter, Abdus Salam Murshedy, managing director of Envoy, said yesterday. “We want to maintain such growth in the second quarter as well.” Envoy will set up a new spinning unit which is expected to start production in June 2016, he said. The company is putting in Tk 235 crore to set up the spinning unit in Bhaluka of Mymensingh, to become a full-fledged textile manufacturer. The unit will produce 17,500 tonnes of yarn a year, which is 30 percent higher than the company’s own demand, Murshedy said. Envoy, a leading denim maker in Bangladesh, currently uses 24,000 tonnes of yarn a year to make fabric, and it intends to sell the spinning unit’s residual output. The new unit will create around 400 jobs. Envoy makes 48 million yards of fabrics annually, and is a supplier of readymade garments to Wal-Mart, H&M, JC Penney, GAP, Carrefour, Zara and Next. The company’s earnings per share stood at 1.21 in the first quarter, according to the Dhaka Stock Exchange website. Envoy shares traded between Tk 54.9 to 59, closing at Tk 55.7 on the Dhaka bourse yesterday. On December 10, Envoy entered an agreement to sell cloth to Prosperity Textile, a denim manufacturer in Guangdong province of China, according to DSE. The Chinese textile maker will also share technical know-how with Envoy, especially for product development, it said. Envoy’s net profit fell 28.61 percent year-on-year to Tk 31.09 crore during the year ended September 2014. However, the company recorded a year-on-year turnover growth of 10.23 percent, to Tk 439 crore.

ILO lauds contribution of RMG sector

The International Labour Organisation (ILO) in a report mentioned with appreciation the contribution of the readymade garment (RMG) sector to the country’s recent robust economic growth.The RMG, which suffered a big jolt from a building collapse in 2013, already made significant headway with support from the ILO and other development organizations and global retailers.The apparel sector maintained its top position among the leading export sectors with 5.0 percent growth and over $22 billion earnings during January-November period in 2014, according to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB).The ILO, in its report titled “World Employment and Social Outlook – Trends 2015 (WESO)”, released in Geneva, Switzerland on Tuesday,said Bangladesh had been able to maintain robust economic growth rates in recent years due to strong growth in exports driven by the garment industry.The report also attributed the growth to the remittance from overseas workers saying that Bangladesh economy had grown around 6.0 percent for an extended period due to strong domestic demand fuelled by the remittance inflows. As of December 26, 2014    Bangladeshi people living overseas sent home $14.71 billion, which was 11.27 percent higher on year-on-year basis.Besides the economic growth, the ILO report said that Bangladesh and many countries in the region reduced the extent of extreme poverty with effective antipoverty focus adopted in national development plans.

BD to miss RMG export target

Bangladesh will miss this year’s apparel export target as foreign buyers are passing orders to other countries due to the political turmoil in the country, a top industry leader said.   “The shutdown and blockade has created multifarious negative impacts on the sector, posing a serious threat to achieving garments export target set for the current fiscal,” Atiqul Islam, President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters’ Association (BGMEA) said this while speaking at a discussion in the city on Tuesday.The discussion titled “Regulatory challenge for trade and investment” was organized by Policy Research Institute (PRI).Dr Zaidi Sattar, Chairman of PRI made opening remarks where Dr. Sadiq Ahmed, Vice-Chairman, PRI presented the keynote paper. Expressing concern over the ongoing political impasse, Atiqul Islam said, the present situation in the country’s political arena is forcing foreign buyers to shift orders to other countries. Besides, the industry owners could not send the apparel goods to buyers within the stipulated time further risking cancellation of export orders.”The nationwide blockade has also affected our production and shipment sending negative message about Bangladesh’s RMG business to the foreign buyers.  The government is providing police protection to carry the goods to and from Chittagong port to keep export and import businesses normal, but buyers are considering the situation abnormal,” he said.He also said that if the situation continues, the export target would not be achieved.The garments export target has been fixed at $26.9 billion, up 10 per cent from previous year’s $24.5 billion when shipment surged by 14 per cent.Atiqul Islam urged the political parties to declare the readymade garment (RMG) sector and its forward and backward linkage industries, and export import supply chain, free from strike or blockade.Dr SA Samad, Vice-Chairman of Board of Investment (BoI) and Abdul Huq, Director of FBCCI, also spoke on the occasion.   The speakers said that inadequate Infrastructure and political instability are two major constraints for the country’s investment growth.”Increasing investment to the desired level appears to be a formidable challenge and requires major effort to improve the investment climate, especially to attract more FDI,” they added.

ILO appreciates RMG sector’s contribution to economy

The International Labour Organisation (ILO) in a report mentioned with appreciation the contribution of the readymade garment (RMG) sector to the country’s recent robust economic growth. The RMG, which suffered a big jolt from a building collapse in 2013, already made significant headway with support from the ILO and other development organizations and global retailers, reports BSS. The apparel sector maintained its top position among the leading export sectors with 5.0 percent growth and over $22 billion earnings during January-November period in 2014, according to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB). The ILO, in its report titled “World Employment and Social Outlook – Trends 2015 (WESO)”, released in Geneva, Switzerland on Tuesday, said Bangladesh had been able to maintain robust economic growth rates in recent years due to strong growth in exports driven by the garment industry. The report also attributed the growth to the remittance from overseas workers saying that Bangladesh economy had grown around 6.0 percent for an extended period due to strong domestic demand fuelled by the remittance inflows. As of December 26, 2014 Bangladeshi people living overseas sent home $14.71 billion, which was 11.27 percent higher on year-on-year basis.

Foreign buyers worried over political unrest BGMEA President tells roundtable

Top eleven foreign buyers, being worried about the ongoing blockade and political unrest, have urged the RMG exporters to push the political leaders and civil society members to raise voice for immediate restoration of a business-friendly atmosphere in the country. Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Md Atiqul Islam informed this at a roundtable held at the Policy Research Institute (PRI) auditorium in the city Tuesday. Top retailers are calling me and asking what’s going on here. They are worried,” Islam said. They (retailers) will not speak in public—they will not issue any press release. But, they will quit business from Bangladesh slowly,” the BGMEA president added. He said top eleven global retailers (RMG product buyers) import a significant portion of Bangladesh’s RMG goods, which is around 50 percent of the annual RMG export. They are big. We won’t be able to recover if anything happens,” he said without disclosing the names of top buyers He said he received phone calls from buyers in the morning and promised the buyers to get back to them to update them about the political climate here after completing his speech at the PRI roundtable Islam maintained, “However, we should not ignore the small buyers. We must take care of all the buyers to achieve the target of $50 billion export by 2021. He said Bangladesh needs to export $90 crore (Tk 690 crore) worth of RMG goods every single day to achieve the target set by the government and RMG entrepreneurs to lead the country towards graduating to a middle-income nation by 2021. So, every single day is important and we already lost 14 days,” the BGMEA chief said. He alleged that political leaders are not paying heed to their woes. Atiqul Islam said the RMG exporters have been facing a lot of pressures domestically and internationally. According to him, domestic pressures including higher cost of production in the backdrop of higher compliance demand, wage hike, hike in the price of raw materials, land and utility services along with external pressures including loss of competitiveness in the international market due to political instability at home and rapid rise of Cambodia as a RMG exporter among the least-developed countries after Bangladesh. Political leaders are not trying to understand our problems,” he said. Islam said Bangladesh is the only country in the world where two international buyers’ platforms —Alliance and Accord – have been working to enhance skills, compliance and productivity of the RMG industry with the goal to ensure development and improve living standards of people. We need to look at building high-tech infrastructures and add higher value to RMG products but we are facing political hurdles. It is destructive for us. We are in real trouble. Please raise your voice and speak for us,” a helpless Islam made the call upon academics, economists, former diplomats, researchers and head of different international agencies and prominent civil society members present at the PRI roundtable. He said the government can play much pro-active role to flourish the RMG export. Suppose, in Russia, the government can seek for duty-free exports of RMG products as we have given them the work of establishing a nuke power plant and accelerate bi-lateral relations. But, the government is not doing so,” he said. In reality, the government rather has set higher price of land at proposed Bausia Garment Village where the entrepreneurs will need to develop land, which is now under water, and get ready other arrangements to connect with infrastructures facilities provided by the government. On the other hand, buyers have given us a five-year timeframe for shifting factories located at shared building to own-buildings. Already two years passed. You can see that how much pressure is on us,” Atiqul Islam said. He said an Indian buyer had imported RMG goods worth of $5.5 million from a Bangladeshi exporters few years back but didn’t make the payment. The issue has been raised at different forums even with representatives of Indian government. But, all attempts went in vain. Our government can play a strong role in realizing the genuine claim of our exporter, who is now suffering with huge burden of bank loans, while the relations between Bangladesh and India gets better than before,” the BGMEA president said. He said international retailers have found only 2 percent factories non-compliant and it means that the current prospective of Bangladesh’s RMG industry is bright if there is no political problem. The PRI, in collaboration with DFID, had organized the roundtable on “Regulatory Challenges for Trade and Investment in Bangladesh”. PRI chairperson Dr Zaidi Sattar presided over the function. PRI vice chairman Dr Sadiq Ahmed presented a key-note paper on the topic. Executive Chairman of Board of Investment Dr S.A Samad spoke as chief guest while former ambassador Farooq Sobhan, PRI executive director Dr Ahsan H Mansur, director of Bangladesh Foreign Trade Institute Mostafa Abid Khan, BIDS director general Mustafa Kamal Mujeri, Monem Group managing director Moinuddin Monem and FBCCI director Abdul Huque addressed, among others.

Govt to provide security to apparel-laden vehicles

State Minister for Labour and Employment Mujibul Haque Chunnu on Tuesday said the security for the vehicles carrying readymade garments would be further increased as the countrywide indefinite transport blockade enforced by the BNP-led 20-party alliance goes on, reports BSS. “A requisition in this regard will be sought from the Ministry of Home Affairs. We’re trying to ensure all- out security for the RMG sector. I myself am monitoring the situation,” he said while briefing reporters after the 27th meeting of the core committee on crisis management affairs at the secretariat. Chunnu called upon the owners of garment industries not to retrench workers and make delay in paying their wages on the pretext of blockade. The state minister further said a section of people undercover of labourers has been engaged in smearing propaganda over the RMG business discouraging foreign buyers. “Those who are involved in such foul play would be exposed.” Besides, Mujibul said, the interested garment businessmen would be provided with loan from the Bangladesh Bank at 2 percent interest rate for the construction of dormitories for their workers. Representatives of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA) and labour organisations were present at the meeting.

ILO lauds RMG’s contribution to Bangladesh economy

The International Labour Organisation in a report mentioned with appreciation the contribution of the readymade garment sector to the country’s recent robust economic growth. The RMG, which suffered a big jolt from a building collapse in 2013, already made significant headway with support from the ILO and other development organisations and global retailers. The apparel sector maintained its top position among the leading export sectors with 5.0 per cent growth and over $22 billion earnings during January-November period in 2014, according to Export Promotion Bureau. The ILO, in its report titled ‘World Employment and Social Outlook – Trends 2015’, released in Geneva, Switzerland on Tuesday, said Bangladesh had been able to maintain robust economic growth rates in recent years due to strong growth in exports driven by the garment industry. The report also attributed the growth to the remittance from overseas workers saying that Bangladesh economy had grown around 6.0 per cent for an extended period due to strong domestic demand fuelled by the remittance inflows. As of December 26, 2014 Bangladeshi people living overseas sent home $14.71 billion, which was 11.27 per cent higher on year-on-year basis. Besides the economic growth, the ILO report said that Bangladesh and many countries in the region reduced the extent of extreme poverty with effective antipoverty focus adopted in national development plans. The main focus of the latest ILO report, however, is the global job situation, which the ILO apprehends would be more critical in the coming years as unemployment would continue to rise. ‘By 2019, more than 212 million people will be out of work, up from the current 201 million,’ the report said. It said more than 61 million jobs have been lost since the start of the global crisis in 2008 and our projections show that unemployment would continue to rise until the end of the decade. According to the report, two regions, South Asia and Sub-Saharan Africa, accounted for three quarters of the world’s vulnerable employment. East Asia is among the regions that are likely to make the biggest dent in vulnerable employment, which is expected to be reduced in the region from 50.2 per cent in 2007 to 38.9 per cent in 2019. It said the employment situation had improved in the United States and Japan, but remained difficult in a number of advanced economies, particularly in Europe. The ILO report said the steep decline in oil and gas prices, if sustained, may improve the employment outlook somewhat in many advanced economies and several Asian countries according to some forecasts. By contrast, it will hit labour markets hard in major oil and gas producing countries, notably in Latin America, Africa and the Arab region.

Accord to inspect 200 more factories

Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, the platform of European retailers, is going to assess fire and electrical safety and structural integrity of 200 more factories. The Accord will hire engineering firms to inspect the additional factories that have been included on the list after completing the initial inspections in 1,106 factories in September, it said. The factories have been included as the Accord signatories started business with them after the period, an Accord official told New Age on Tuesday. After the Rana Plaza building collapse on April 24, 2013 that killed more than 1,100 people, mostly garment workers, Western retailers and apparel brands, reacting to public outrage, began a major push to improve safety in the Bangladeshi factories liked with their business. The EU brands and retailers including H&M, Carrefour and Mango, as well as 14 American companies formed the Accord and the initiative started inspection since February last year that ended in September 2014. The Accord had identified more than 80,000 faults in its 1,106 inspected units and over 11,000 issues have so far been remediated. Accord chief safety inspector Brad Loewen told New Age that all of the factories which the Accord inspected were involved in direct business with Accord signatories. Replying to a question he said, ‘The Accord has always used third party inspectors to do the initial inspections with the Accord staff engineers doing all of the follow up inspections to verify that all findings are remediated.’ Another Accord official said the appointment of third party inspection farms would be completed shortly and the inspections in the additional units would start soon.

POLITICAL UNREST Factory owners asked not to terminate workers

State Minister for Labour Mujibul Haque on Tuesday asked garment factory owners not to terminate workers during the on-going political turmoil. The junior minister said that factory owners will have to be careful in dealing with issues like workers’ wages, increment and termination while the country is passing through a sensitive time of political unrest. He was speaking at a meeting of Crisis Management Committee comprised of representatives of the government, readymade garment factory owners, industrial police, rapid action battalion and trade unions. Mujibul asked the owners to implement 5 per cent increment for the workers as per provision of the wage board and said owners will have to be cautious to avoid any untoward incident in the sector during the present critical time. Coming down heavily on trade union federation, Mujibul said the government would review the activities of some federation and see whether the federation obtained registration through proper channel. ‘Some of the federation leaders are acting against the interest of the country and working like agents of foreigners. The government will resist any harmful activities in the name of trade union,’ the state minister said. In the meeting, factory owners urged the government and law enforcement agencies to ensure transportation of export goods and imported raw materials to keep the production in the factories normal. They informed that most of the garment factories that are members of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association and Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association have already implemented the 5 per cent increment since the announcement of the new wage structure a year ago. Labour secretary Mikail Shipar, BGMEA vice president Reaz Bin-Mahmood, former BKMEA vice president Mohammad Hatem, inspector general of the Depertment of Inspection for Factories and Establishments Syed Ahmed, among others, attended the meeting.

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