দেশের টেক্সটাইল খাতের স্বার্থে সব স্থলবন্দরের কাস্টম হাউস ব্যবহার করে সুতা আমদানি বন্ধ করার অনুরোধ করেছেন বস্ত্র খাতের উদ্যোক্তারা। স্থলবন্দরের পরিবর্তে তারা সমুদ্রবন্দর দিয়ে সুতা আমদানির পরামর্শ দিয়েছেন। সম্প্রতি অর্থ উপদেষ্টাকে এ বিষয়ে চিঠি দিয়েছে বাংলাদেশ টেক্সটাইল মিলস অ্যাসোসিয়েশন (বিটিএমএ)। চিঠিতে বলা হয়েছে, স্থলবন্দর দিয়ে সুতা আমদানি বন্ধে দ্রুত পদক্ষেপ না নিলে দেশের টেক্সটাইল শিল্প প্রতিষ্ঠানগুলো অপূরণীয় ক্ষতির সম্মুখীন হবে। এতে প্রতিযোগিতামূলক বাজারে ব্যবসা পরিচালনা করা সম্ভব হবে না। ফলে বিদেশি সুতার ওপর নির্ভরশীলতা বেড়ে যাবে। বেকারত্বের সংখ্যাও বাড়বে।
বিটিএমএ বলছে, গ্যাস-বিদ্যুতের দাম বৃদ্ধি, ডলারের সংকট, অস্বাভাবিক সুদহার, এলডিসি গ্র্যাজুয়েশনের শর্ত পূরণের অজুহাতে রপ্তানির বিপরীতে নগদ প্রণোদনার অস্বাভাবিক হ্রাস এবং টাকার অবমূল্যায়নসহ নানা কারণে টেক্সটাইল খাত সমস্যার মুখে পড়ে। এর মধ্যে ভারত থেকে বিভিন্ন স্থলবন্দর দিয়ে কাস্টম হাউস ব্যবহার করে ডাম্পিং মূল্যে সুতা ও কাপড় স্থানীয়রা আনছেন। ফলে এ শিল্প নতুন চ্যালেঞ্জে পড়েছে। এতে বলা হয়– বেনাপোল, ভোমরা, সোনামসজিদ, বাংলাবান্ধাসহ অন্য স্থলবন্দর বা কাস্টম হাউসগুলোতে প্রয়োজনীয় অবকাঠামো, সুতার কাউন্ট পরিমাপক যন্ত্র, দক্ষ জনবলের অভাব, সংশ্লিষ্ট কর্তৃপক্ষের যথাযথ নিয়ন্ত্রণ না থাকায় আমদানি ও রপ্তানি বাণিজ্য অনেকাংশে সুষ্ঠুভাবে পরিচালনা হচ্ছে না। ফলে সুতার মতো গুরুত্বপূর্ণ কাঁচামাল আমদানির অনুমতিসহ আংশিক শিপমেন্টের অনুমতি বিদ্যমান থাকায় দেশীয় টেক্সটাইল বিশেষ করে স্পিনিং মিলগুলো ব্যাপকভাবে ক্ষতিগ্রস্ত হচ্ছে। এ ছাড়া স্থলবন্দর দিয়ে সুতা আমদানির ক্ষেত্রে মিথ্যা ঘোষণার মাধ্যমে অননুমোদিত সুতার ব্যাপক বাজারজাতকরণের ফলে এ খাত অসম প্রতিযোগিতায় পড়েছে। সরকারও ন্যায্য রাজস্ব থেকে বঞ্চিত হচ্ছে। সুতা আমদানির ক্ষেত্রে আংশিক শিপমেন্টের অনুমতি দেওয়ার মতো আত্মঘাতী সিদ্ধান্ত বহাল থাকায় এ সুযোগের অপব্যবহার করে একই এলসির অধীনে একাধিকবার অনুমোদনের চেয়ে বেশি সুতার অনুপ্রবেশ ঘটছে।
In 2024, Bangladesh’s cotton yarn imports soared by 39%, reaching an all-time high of $2.28 billion, according to National Board of Revenue data. Simultaneously, knitwear factories ramped up their fabric imports by 38%, spending another $2.59 billion. A staggering 80% of these imports came from India, a country emerging as a formidable competitor in the ready-made garment (RMG) sector.
At first glance, the appeal of imported yarn seems undeniable. Knitwear manufacturers report paying $2.19 per kilogram for Indian yarn delivered to Chattogram port. By contrast, locally spun yarn costs $2.45 per kilogram. The price difference – around 10% – immediately tilts the balance in favour of imports. But is it really that simple? A closer examination reveals hidden dynamics behind this price disparity.
The unseen costs of imports
While the $2.19 per kilogram figure appears cost-efficient, importers bear significant additional expenses. Transportation from Chattogram port to factory hubs in Gazipur, Ashulia, Narayanganj and Narsingdi adds to the cost. There are also charges for opening letters of credit (LCs), confirmation fees, and insurance costs – all of which weigh on importers.
Inventory management presents another challenge. Imported yarn and fabrics are typically ordered in bulk, leading to storage and handling costs that local suppliers can help avoid. Furthermore, garments made using locally produced yarn qualify for a 1.5% cash incentive, a benefit absent for imported alternatives.
Also, local spinning mills offer unmatched flexibility. A garment manufacturer can order two truckloads of yarn and have them delivered directly to their factory without transportation costs. Moreover, local suppliers often extend generous credit terms, allowing garment makers to defer payments for up to two months after delivery.
While some blame the government’s policies for the sector’s struggles, others point to the financial miscalculations of knitwear manufacturers. A top spinning mill owner argued that the lower upfront cost of imported yarn masks additional expenses, such as bulk-order requirements, inventory management, and transportation
As one spinner, requesting anonymity, put it: “Garment makers get yarn for at least two months without paying us, while the yarn is entirely produced with my money.”
Industry insiders say this ability to secure raw materials on credit is a lifeline for many garment factories, especially those operating on tight cash flows. It reduces their immediate financial burden and offers a degree of operational convenience that imported yarn simply cannot match.
The bigger picture
The rise in yarn and fabric imports underscores a larger concern: the growing dependency on a rival in the RMG market. While Indian imports may seem cost-effective, they come with long-term risks for Bangladesh’s textile and garment ecosystem, industry insiders said. Supporting local spinners could strengthen the domestic value chain, reduce vulnerabilities, and create a more sustainable foundation for the country’s largest export sector.
“The debate, therefore, isn’t just about cost – it’s about balance. How much should Bangladesh rely on imports, and at what point does it start eroding the resilience of its own industries?” said Showkat Aziz Russell, president of the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA).
The previous government, led by Sheikh Hasina, opened the floodgates for Indian yarn imports by allowing their entry through land ports – a decision that BTMA President Russell described as a “disaster” for the country’s textile industry.
“Yarn import from India through land ports should be immediately banned as these ports lack the necessary infrastructure to prevent misdeclaration,” said BTMA president. He added that allowing imports via sea ports is less problematic because of stricter accountability measures.
Russell alleged that importers often exploit the land port system. “Many open LCs to import two tonnes of yarn but bring in 10 tonnes. Also, finer, higher-count yarn is imported under the guise of lower-count, thicker yarn,” he said. Such practices, he warned, are driving local spinning mills to the brink of collapse. “If this continues, factories will shut down, and hundreds of thousands of jobs will be lost.”
Russell called on the interim government, urging them to reverse the policies of their predecessors and ban yarn imports via land ports.
The bleak state of the textile sector is evident in investment data. According to the BTMA, the industry has 519 yarn manufacturing mills and 938 fabric manufacturing mills, representing a combined investment of over $25 billion. However, no new investments were made in 2023 or 2024, a stark contrast to 2022 when 14 new mills were established at over Tk4,000 crore.
Is reduction in incentives for exports using local yarn the culprit?
One critical factor contributing to the crisis is the reduction of cash incentives for exports made with locally-produced yarn. The incentive was slashed from 3% to 1.5% this fiscal year. Mohammad Hatem, president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), the main user of local yarn, criticised this move as detrimental to Bangladesh’s businesses.
“Once, we proudly said our knitwear had 80% value addition because of local yarn. Now, 90% of the yarn I use is imported,” Hatem said. He attributed this shift to policies prioritising imports over local production, indirectly benefiting a neighbouring country.
Hatem also pointed out the challenges local millers face, including inadequate gas supply despite a 180% price hike last year. Combined with the reduced incentives, these issues have placed local mills in a dire situation. “Thousands of crores in bank investments in this sector are at risk if the current situation persists,” he warned.
While some blame the government’s policies for the sector’s struggles, others point to the financial miscalculations of knitwear manufacturers. A top spinning mill owner argued that the lower upfront cost of imported yarn masks additional expenses, such as bulk-order requirements, inventory management, and transportation.
“Importers don’t account for these costs. Meanwhile, local suppliers offer relaxed payment terms and deliver yarn directly to factories without additional freight charges,” he said.
Despite these advantages, imported yarn remains cheaper overall. Hatem acknowledged, “Even if transportation, clearing and forwarding (C&F), and insurance costs are added, imported yarn is still less expensive than locally-produced yarn.”
নতুন বা অপ্রচলিত বাজারে ২০২৪ সালে বাংলাদেশের তৈরি পোশাকের রপ্তানি করেছে ৬৩৩ কোটি ৩৪ লাখ মার্কিন ডলার। নতুন বাজারে ওভেনের চেয়ে নিট বেশি রপ্তানি হয়েছে। আলোচ্য সময়ে ওভেন রপ্তানি হয়েছে ৩১০ কোটি ৮০ লাখ ডলারের এবং নিট রপ্তানি হয়েছে ৩২২ কোটি ৫৩ লাখ ডলার।
রপ্তানি উন্নয়ন ব্যুরো (ইপিবি) সূত্রে এ তথ্য জানা গেছে।
তথ্যমতে, নতুন বাজারগুলোর মধ্যে জাপান পোশাক রপ্তানিতে শীর্ষ স্থানে রয়েছে। ২০২৪ সালের জানুয়ারি থেকে ডিসেম্বর পর্যন্ত জাপানে রপ্তানি হয়েছে ১১১ কোটি ৮৭ লাখ মার্কিন ডলার। এরমধ্যে ওভেন রপ্তানি হয়েছে ৫৪ কোটি ৩০ লাখ মার্কিন ডলারের এবং নিট রপ্তানি হয়েছে ৫৭ কোটি ৫৭ লাখ মার্কিন ডলারের। নতুন বাজারের মধ্যে রপ্তানিতে দ্বিতীয় অবস্থানে রয়েছে অস্ট্রেলিয়া। আলোচ্য সময়ে অস্ট্রেলিয়ার বাজারে পোশাক রপ্তানি হয়েছে ৮৩ কোটি ৯ লাখ মার্কিন ডলার। এর মধ্যে ওভেন ৩৩ কোটি ৬৭ লাখ ডলার এবং নিটওয়্যার ৫৭ কোটি ৫৭ লাখ মার্কিন ডলার। তৈরি পোশাক রপ্তানিতে তৃতীয় অবস্থানে রয়েছে ভারত। আলোচ্য সময়ে ভারতে তৈরি পোশাক রপ্তানি হয়েছে ৬০ কোটি ৬৫ লাখ মার্কিন ডলার। ভারতে ওভেন রপ্তানি হয়েছে ৪০ কোটি ৩৪ লাখ ডলারের এবং নিট রপ্তানি হয়েছে ২০ কোটি ৩০ লাখ ডলারের। এছাড়া দক্ষিণ কোরিয়ায় পোশাক রপ্তানি হয়েছে ৪৪ কোটি ৫৭ লাখ মার্কিন ডলার। এর মধ্যে ২১ কোটি ৮৮ লাখ ডলারের ওভেন এবং ২২ কোটি ৬৯ লাখ মার্কিন ডলারের তৈরি পোশাক রপ্তানি হয়েছে।
পোশাক খাতের ব্যবসায়ীরা জানান, তৈরি পোশাক রপ্তানির অর্ধেকের বেশি হয় ইউরোপীয় ইউনিয়নে। ব্যবসায়ীরা পণ্যের বৈচিত্র্যের সঙ্গে সঙ্গে নতুন বাজার খুঁজছে। নানা চ্যালেঞ্জ মোকাবিলা করে অন্যান্য প্রতিযোগী দেশের সঙ্গে পাল্লা দিয়ে দিন দিন নতুন বাজারে রপ্তানিও বাড়ানোর চেষ্টা করছে দেশের ব্যবসায়ীরা। এ ধারা অব্যাহত থাকলে আগামী দিনে নতুন বাজারে তৈরি পোশাক রপ্তানির প্রবৃদ্ধি আরো বাড়বে।
নতুন বাজারের মধ্যে তুর্কিতে ২০২৪ সালের জানুয়ারি থেকে ডিসেম্বর পর্যন্ত সময়ে রপ্তানি হয়েছে ৪২ কোটি ৫৯ লাখ ডলার, রাশিয়ায় ৩৪ কোটি ৩১ লাখ ডলার, চায়নায় ২১ কোটি ৬৬ লাখ, ইউনাইটেড আরব আমিরাত ২৪ কোটি ৪৪ লাখ ডলার, মেক্সিকো ৩২ কোটি ৫৪ লাখ ডলার, মালয়েশিয়া ১৯ কোটি ৩২ লাখ ডলার, সৌদি আরব ১৫ কোটি ৪৪ লাখ ডলার, সাউথ আফ্রিকা ১১ কোটি ১৩ লাখ ডলার, নিউজিল্যাল্ড৯ কোটি ৬১ লাখ ডলার, চিলি ১৪ কোটি ৬৬ লাখ ডলার, ব্রাজিল ১৫ কোটি ৮২ লাখ ডলার এবং অন্যান্য দেশে ৯১ কোটি ৫৭ লাখ মার্কিন ডলার রপ্তানি হয়েছে।
Textile millers and garment factory owners today urged the government not to further hike gas prices, as any additional increase would raise production costs and harm their competitiveness in global markets.
The government’s proposed 150 percent hike in gas prices, from Tk 30 per cubic metre to Tk 75, will deter investment inflow to the primary textile and garment sectors, ultimately affecting employment generation.
The leaders of the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), and Bangladesh Terry Towel & Linen Manufacturers & Exporters’ Association (BTTLMEA) made the call through a joint letter to Muhammad Fouzul Kabir Khan, adviser to the power ministry.
The country’s demand for gas was 25,947 million cubic metres (MMCM), of which 18 percent was supplied to the industrial sector in the 2023-24 fiscal year, the associations said in the letter.
Of the gas supplied to industries, 30 percent, or 1,400 MMCM, was allocated to the garment sector. If every unit of gas price is hiked by Tk 45, the garment sector will have to spend an additional Tk 6,300 crore annually, equivalent to 1.5 percent of the total export earnings of apparel industries.
Meanwhile, the captive power plants of the primary textile sector—consuming 10 percent of the country’s demand or 2,595 MMCM annually—will have to spend an additional Tk 11,675 crore annually, which amounts to 2.7 percent of the sector’s export value.
The capacity of local industries will decline, and they will lose global competitiveness because of these high additional expenditures, the associations mentioned in the letter.
The proposed gas price hike will also affect investment inflow to the garment and textile sectors, the letter read.
The situation will worsen further if gas becomes costlier, as capital machinery imports in the garment and textile sectors have already declined in recent times.
In the July-November period of the current fiscal year, capital machinery imports in the garment sector fell by 8.95 percent year-on-year, while imports in the textile sector declined by 18.11 percent, according to Bangladesh Bank data.
The price of per-unit garment items sent to the USA and European Union markets fell by 4.24 percent and 4.83 percent, respectively, in the 11 months to November last year, during which global demand for garment items also dropped by 5 percent, the letter said.
In the meantime, the cost of production in the two sectors has continued to rise due to various factors.
In December 2023, garment workers’ salaries were increased by 56 percent, and in the same month the following year, the government raised the rate of annual increment for RMG workers from 4 percent to 9 percent.
Over the past five years, gas prices have risen by 286.5 percent, power prices by 33.5 percent, diesel prices by 68 percent, and bank interest rates have climbed to 14-15 percent. These increases have collectively caused a 50 percent rise in production costs for industrial firms, the letter read.
During the same period, the government reduced cash incentives against the use of local yarn to 1.5 percent from the earlier 4 percent.
The associations also said the textile and garment sectors have been severely affected by the fallouts of the July uprising, which impacted every sector, including import, export, banking activities, labour management, and law and order.
The proposal for a gas price hike has been made at a time when industrial units are already facing acute gas pressure, with most textile mills in Gazipur, Mymensingh, Narayanganj, and Savar running at 40 percent to 50 percent capacity, the letter said.
Although the government hiked gas prices by 150 percent with effect from January 2023, the industries are yet to benefit from the increase, as the supply has not improved.
শিল্প খাতে গ্যাসের দাম বাড়ানোর আশঙ্কায় উদ্বেগ প্রকাশ করেছেন তৈরি পোশাক ও বস্ত্র খাতের ব্যবসায়ীরা। তাঁরা বলেন, গ্যাসের দাম আবার বাড়ানো হলে পোশাক ও বস্ত্র শিল্প খাতের ক্যাপটিভ বিদ্যুৎকেন্দ্রগুলোতে বছরে অতিরিক্ত প্রায় ১৮ হাজার কোটি টাকা ব্যয় হবে। দীর্ঘ মেয়াদে এর নেতিবাচক প্রভাব পড়বে দেশের অর্থনীতিতে।
সম্প্রতি বিদ্যুৎ, জ্বালানি ও খনিজসম্পদ মন্ত্রণালয়ের উপদেষ্টা মুহাম্মদ ফাওজুল কবির খানের কাছে লেখা এক চিঠিতে এমন আশঙ্কার কথা জানান ব্যবসায়ীরা। চিঠিতে স্বাক্ষর করেন বাংলাদেশ পোশাক উৎপাদক ও রপ্তানিকারক সমিতির (বিজিএমইএ) প্রশাসক মো. আনোয়ার হোসেন, বাংলাদেশ নিটওয়্যার ম্যানুফ্যাকচারার্স অ্যান্ড এক্সপোর্টার্স অ্যাসোসিয়েশনের (বিকেএমইএ) সভাপতি মোহাম্মদ হাতেম, বাংলাদেশ টেক্সটাইল মিলস অ্যাসোসিয়েশনের (বিটিএমএ) সভাপতি শওকত আজিজ ও বাংলাদেশ টেরি টাওয়েল অ্যান্ড লিনেন ম্যানুফ্যাকচারার্স অ্যান্ড এক্সপোর্টার্স অ্যাসোসিয়েশনের (বিটিটিএলএমইএ) চেয়ারম্যান হোসেন মেহমুদ।
জ্বালানি উপদেষ্টাকে লেখা চিঠিতে ব্যবসায়ী নেতারা বলেন, গণমাধ্যমের সাম্প্রতিক কিছু প্রতিবেদন থেকে জানা গেছে যে সরকার প্রতি ঘনমিটার গ্যাসের দাম প্রায় ১৫০ শতাংশ বাড়িয়ে ৭৫ টাকা করার চিন্তা করছে। এই মূল্যবৃদ্ধি কার্যকর হলে তা দীর্ঘ মেয়াদে দেশের শিল্পায়ন ও অর্থনীতিতে নেতিবাচক প্রভাব ফেলতে পারে।
চিঠিতে বলা হয়, করোনা মহামারির ধাক্কা কাটানোর আগেই রাশিয়া-ইউক্রেন ও মধ্যপ্রাচ্যে যুদ্ধ এবং বৈশ্বিক মূল্যস্ফীতির চাপে পড়েছে দেশের বস্ত্র ও পোশাক খাত। গত পাঁচ বছরে গ্যাসের দাম ২৮৬ দশমিক ৫ শতাংশ; বিদ্যুতের দাম ৩৩ দশমিক ৫ শতাংশ ও ডিজেলের দাম ৬৮ শতাংশ বেড়েছে। সার্বিকভাবে গত পাঁচ বছরে কারখানার গড় উৎপাদন খরচ প্রায় ৫০ শতাংশ বৃদ্ধি পেয়েছে।
ব্যবসায়ী নেতারা জানান, বর্তমানে শিল্পঘন এলাকাগুলোতে গ্যাস–সংকটের কারণে ৫০-৬০ শতাংশ হারে উৎপাদন কমেছে। এতে ব্যাপক আর্থিক লোকসানের মুখে পড়েছে প্রতিষ্ঠানগুলো। অন্যদিকে উৎপাদন কমায় সরবরাহ শৃঙ্খলেও বিপর্যস্ত অবস্থা তৈরি হয়েছে। এতে সময়মতো কাঁচামাল সরবরাহ ও পণ্য রপ্তানির লিড টাইম ধরে রাখা কঠিন হচ্ছে। সব মিলিয়ে ক্রেতাদের আস্থা হারাচ্ছে প্রতিষ্ঠানগুলো।
এর আগে ২০২৩ সালের জানুয়ারি মাসে শিল্প খাতে গ্যাসের দাম ১৫০ শতাংশ বাড়ানো হয়েছিল উল্লেখ করে ব্যবসায়ী নেতারা বলেন, তখন শিল্পে নিরবচ্ছিন্ন গ্যাস সরবরাহের নিশ্চয়তা দেওয়া হয়েছিল। কিন্তু বাস্তবে তার সুফল পাওয়া যায়নি।
তৈরি পোশাক ও বস্ত্র খাতের ব্যবসায়ীরা বলেন, এমন এক সময়ে সর্বশেষ গ্যাসের মূল্যবৃদ্ধির উদ্যোগটি এসেছে, যখন গ্যাসের দাম প্রতি ঘনমিটারে ৪৫ টাকা বাড়ালে তৈরি পোশাক খাতে বছরে প্রায় ৬ হাজার ৩০০ কোটি টাকা ব্যয় বাড়বে। আর বস্ত্র খাতে ব্যয় বাড়বে ১১ হাজার ৬৭৫ কোটি টাকা। সব মিলিয়ে প্রায় ১৮ হাজার কোটি টাকা ব্যয় বাড়লে সেটি পুরোপুরি বহন করার সক্ষমতা এই শিল্পের থাকবে না। ফলে আন্তর্জাতিক বাজারে প্রতিযোগিতা সক্ষমতা হারানোর শঙ্কা রয়েছে।
গ্যাসের দাম বাড়ানো হলে তা বিনিয়োগে নেতিবাচক প্রভাব ফেলবে জানিয়ে ব্যবসায়ীরা বলেন, বর্তমান পরিস্থিতিতে এমন উদ্যোগ বিনিয়োগ সহায়ক নয়।
ব্যবসায়ী নেতারা জ্বালানি উপদেষ্টাকে দুটি প্রস্তাব দিয়েছেন। এগুলো হচ্ছে—এক. শিল্প খাত ও ক্যাপটিভ বিদ্যুৎকেন্দ্রে গ্যাসের মূল্যবৃদ্ধির পরিকল্পনা স্থগিত করা ও অংশীজনদের সঙ্গে আলোচনার মাধ্যমে একটি প্রতিযোগী ও টেকসই মূল্য নির্ধারণের নীতিমালা প্রণয়ন করা। দুই. শিল্প খাতে বিরাজমান গ্যাস–সংকট মোকাবিলায় জরুরি পদক্ষেপ গ্রহণ নেওয়া; যেমন সিএনজি স্টেশন থেকে সিলিন্ডারের মাধ্যমে কারখানায় গ্যাস সরবরাহ করা। পাশাপাশি নিরবচ্ছিন্ন গ্যাস সরবরাহের জন্য মধ্য ও দীর্ঘমেয়াদি কৌশল ও সময়াবদ্ধ কর্মপরিকল্পনা গ্রহণ।
Two more factories in Bangladesh have achieved Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) certification from the United States Green Building Council (USGBC), as reported by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).
TM Jeans Limited, based in Gazipur, earned a Platinum rating with a score of 81 out of 110 points, and Azmeri Composite Knit Limited, based in Dhaka, earned a Gold rating with a score of 63 out of 110 points, reads a press release sent by former BGMEA director Mohiuddin Rubel.
This brings the total number of green factories in the country to an impressive 235, among which 94 are platinum-rated, 127 are rated gold, and 10 are silver.
“Amidst the challenges posed by a global economic downturn and domestic obstacles, these additions showed Bangladesh’s unwavering commitment to sustainable growth,” read the release.
It added that the steady growth of LEED certifications reflects a proactive approach to sustainability and responsible manufacturing.
“Through continued collaboration and unwavering dedication, we are confident that the Bangladesh RMG sector will achieve even greater milestones, solidifying its reputation as a global leader in sustainable and ethical production,” read the release.
LEED is the most widely utilised green building rating system globally.
Applicable to virtually all building types, LEED provides a framework for creating healthy, efficient, and cost-effective green buildings.
LEED certification is recognised worldwide as a symbol of sustainability achievement and leadership. Before awarding LEED certification, the USGBC evaluates several criteria, including performance transformation, energy efficiency, water conservation, and waste management.
The best-performing facilities are awarded Platinum status, followed by Gold and Silver ratings.
Bangladesh has been obtaining LEED certification since 2012, with the first LEED Platinum-certified factory in the country being Vintage Denim Studio, located in the Ishwardi Export Processing Zone.
The tragic collapse of the Rana Plaza building in 2013 marked a significant turning point for the garment industry in Bangladesh.
This disaster highlighted the urgent need for improved safety standards and sustainable practices within the sector. Entrepreneurs have been investing to improve their factory’s safety – structural, environmental and social aiming to making as sustainable manufacturing plant.
Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the European Union increased by 24 per cent in November 2024 compared with those in the same month of the previous year.
The EU’s apparel imports from Bangladesh increased by 24.09 per cent to 1.53 billion euros in November compared with those of 1.23 billion euros in the same month of 2023, according to data from the Eurostat, the statistical office of the EU.
The country’s exports were 1.75 billion euros in October with growth of 33.83 per cent, 1.54 billion euros in September with 7.39 per cent growth and 1.62 billion euros in August with 4.21 per cent growth.
A strong recovery was evident in the past three months, as exports from September to November in 2024 posted consistent growth, driven by heightened demand during the EU’s peak retail season.
Exporters said that global demand for apparel had risen as inflation eased and interest rates declined in western countries.
They said that Bangladesh had been receiving increased orders for higher-value-added products.
Furthermore, exporters expressed optimism about the steady flow of orders, adding that an improvement in the law-and-order situation could attract even more global orders to Bangladesh.
The country’s apparel exports to the EU in January-November of 2024 increased by 2.53 per cent, outperforming the global average of 0.34 per cent, mainly due to the consistent growth of past three months on the market.
It increased to 16.72 billion euros in the reporting period compared with those of 16.31 billion euros in the same period of 2023.
Knitwear exports to the EU during the reporting period increased by 0.89 per cent to 10.05 billion euros from 9.97 billion euros in the same period of 2023, while the woven sector saw a more substantial increase of 5.13 per cent, rising from 6.35 billion euros to 6.67 billion euros over the same period.
Data showed that the overall apparel imports by the EU from different countries in the first 11 months of 2024 slightly increased by 0.34 per cent to 78.60 billion euros from 78.33 billion euros in the same period of the previous year.
Bangladesh remained the second-largest apparel exporter to the EU after China, supported by its cost competitiveness and increased focus on sustainability, exporters said.
China retained its position as the EU’s largest apparel exporter in the first 11 months of 2024, with exports rising by 1.19 per cent to 22.11 billion euros from 21.85 billion euros in the same period of 2023.
China’s knitwear exports to the EU in the period grew by 3.67 per cent while woven garments saw a slight decline of 1.31 per cent.
The EU’s apparel imports from Turkey in the first 11 months of 2024 declined by 6.99 per cent to 8.60 billion euros from 9.24 billion euros in the same period of 2023.
The EU’s apparel imports from India increased by 0.70 per cent to 3.91 billion euros in January-November of 2024 compared with those of 3.88 billion euros in the same period of the preceding year.
Vietnam’s apparel exports to the EU in the first 11 months of 2024 grew by 2.87 per cent to 3.63 billion euros from 3.53 billion euros in the same period of 2023.
Cambodia and Pakistan emerged as strong performers in exporting readymade garments to the EU during the January-November period of 2024, driven by significant growth in both the knitwear and woven segments.
The EU’s apparel imports from Cambodia in the first 11 months of 2024 increased by 19.94 per cent to 3.58 billion euros compared with those of 2.99 billion euros in the same period of the previous year.
Pakistan’s apparel exports to the EU increased by 11.16 per cent to 3.20 billion euros in January-November of 2024 compared with those of 2.88 billion euros in the same period of 2023.
Despite a downward trend in the capital market, the textile sector thrived today as investors were more active in this sector.
The textile sector accounted for 15.5% of the Dhaka Stock Exchange’s (DSE) total turnover on the day. Besides, investors received the highest return from this sector.
Five textile firms made it to the top gainers list on the Dhaka Stock Exchange (DSE) on the day, with Malek Spinning leading the pack with a 9.66% gain.
The other top gainers included Mithun Knitting, Alltex Industries, Paramount Textile, and Envoy Textile, reflecting strong investor interest in the sector.
Market insiders said a number of companies revealed their financial statements for the first half of this fiscal year, where they posted robust growth in revenue and profit.
However, the benchmark index DSEX of the DSE extended its losing streak for the second consecutive day. On the day, the DSEX declined by 10 points to close at 5,166, while the blue-chip DS30 fell by 6 points to settle at 1,913.
Market performance was mixed, with 105 stocks advancing, 204 declining, and 89 remaining unchanged.
Investor participation remained subdued, with the daily turnover at the DSE dragging down to Tk356 crore from Tk413 crore in the previous session.
EBL Securities, in its daily market review, said the benchmark index of the capital bourse failed to stay afloat in the final session of the week amid stagnancy in trade turnover due to continued profit-booking sell pressure as investors remained wary of the market’s momentum due to the persistent volatility pervading the trading board.
Despite a somewhat upbeat start in the first hour of today’s session, cautious selling by investors dragged the market into the red trajectory again, which pushed the majority of scrips to extend corrections for two consecutive sessions, it added.
Oimex Electrode was the top loser, with its share price dropping 9.30%, followed by Phoenix Finance, ADN Telecom and National Tubes.
Oimex Electrode was the top-traded stock in terms of value. Its shares worth Tk22 crore were traded, followed by Malek Spinning and ADN Telecom.
Bangladesh is likely to face more hurdles in the race to grab a bigger share of the global apparel market as the Indian government plans to step up its financial assistance to garment exporters.
The Indian government’s confidence that it could capture a bigger slice of the $800 billion global market was renewed when it noticed that some work orders had been shifted away from Bangladesh and arrived at its doors last year.
A few international clothing retailers and brands opted to shift work orders away from Bangladesh as local exporters were facing challenges in timely production, shipment, raw material imports and transportation owing to political turmoil as a result of the student-led mass uprising in July.
The impasse, which began in July and ended with the ouster of the Sheikh Hasina-led Awami League government on August 5 last year, left exporters with their hands tied.
A brief period of instability in the immediate aftermath, which featured spates of labour unrest and closure of a significant number of factories for two to three months, only added to those woes.
A crippling energy crisis, which has prevailed over the last two years, also left many big units operating below capacity.
Moreover, the timing of the “July Revolution” could not have been worse for the garments sector.
July, August, September and October, also represent the peak time for both production and shipment of goods meant for Christmas sales in the Western market, the most important sales season.
This meant local exporters faced tremendous pressure to transport and ship goods. Those who could decide to opt for the expensive route of air shipments, if only to meet deadlines.
Data shows that Bangladesh’s exports to major markets are declining as retailers and brands seek alternative destinations while apparel shipments from India, especially to European countries and the US, have been on an upward trend.
Bangladesh’s garment exports to the US fell 0.46 percent to $6.7 billion between January and November last year while India’s rose 4.25 percent to $4.4 billion, data from the US Office of Textiles and Apparel showed.
On a brighter note, local exporters say that work orders that had shifted away from Bangladesh to other countries, especially to India, are now coming back as normalcy has started to restore in industrial hubs and the law and order is gradually improving.
However, the Indian government, which has been providing plenty of financial incentives to its apparel sector for a long time, is keen to capitalise on the opportunity.
Currently, there are some major government schemes to improve the Indian textile sector, which employs an estimated 45 million people. These include various funds, including those for technology upgradation, skills development, capacity building, and infrastructure and power development. Alongside that, there are production incentives and facilities that provide remission of duties.
Yet, Mithileshwar Thakur, secretary general of India’s Apparel Export Promotion Council, told Reuters last week that exporters were finding it difficult to meet the rush of orders in the last few months.
As such, the country has lined up some new initiatives to facilitate garment manufacturers and exporters in the upcoming budget for FY26, which will be placed in parliament soon.
For example, the government is considering increasing the textile ministry’s budget allocation by 10-15 percent from the current 44.17 billion rupees ($511 million), a government source privy to discussions told Reuters.
The Indian government may also raise the allocation for production-linked incentives for the textile sector to around 600 million rupees from 450 million rupees for the current fiscal year, the source told Reuters.
Under this scheme, the government offers tax incentives and other concessions to companies choosing to manufacture locally.
Tariff cuts on raw materials such as polyester and viscose staple fibre, along with textile machinery, are also under consideration, a second government source told Reuters.
Import tariffs are currently in the range of 11-27 percent on fibre, compared to almost zero in Bangladesh, impacting Indian garment exporters, Reuters said.
Requesting anonymity, a high-end European garment retailer that has been sourcing products from Bangladesh for many years said a few work orders had shifted from Bangladesh to India due to the recent political instability.
“They said they could feel the uncertainty and instability,” the retailer said, hopefully adding that those buyers would return with work orders if they felt that the political situation had stabilised.
On the other hand, Bangladesh has cut export subsidies for almost all sectors to reduce pressure on state coffers and encourage exporters to prepare to compete on the global stage without state support after the country graduates from least developed country (LDC) status in 2026.
In FY24, the Bangladesh government provided cash assistance ranging from 1 percent to 15 percent on export earnings to sharpen the competitive edge of local exports on the international market, which represented a 5 percent slash from the previous highest rate of 20 percent.
The benefit only shrunk further in FY25, with the maximum rate being set at 10 percent and the minimum at 0.3 percent, the Bangladesh Bank said in a notice. Moreover, benefits under the Export Development Fund (EDF) have also been slashed despite rising costs of production.
Currently, Bangladesh is the second-largest global garment exporter after China, grabbing 7.4 percent of the market share and exporting $38 billion worth of items, according to data from the World Trade Organization (WTO). As per the data, India is fifth-largest, shipping $15 billion of items to claim a 3 percent market share.
Faruque Hassan, a former president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), said the shifting of work orders from Bangladesh to India happened mainly due to the political crisis.
However, he also believed that the anticipated imposition of high tariffs on Chinese goods by the Trump Administration in the USA may have also played a role for the rise in work orders in India.
A lot of work orders are shifting from China to other countries as there is a possibility that the US will levy higher duties on Chinese imports, he explained, adding that Bangladesh was also a beneficiary of the development.
Even two years ago a lot of work orders were shifted to Bangladesh from India, Pakistan, Myanmar and Ethiopia because of better prices and quality and catering capacity in a better business environment.
Hassan also reminded that international retailers and brands do not want to put all their eggs in one basket.
He also backed the local sector, saying local exporters faced tremendous pressure last year but are still performing well because they have a higher installed capacity for both garment and primary textiles.
Moreover, the international retailers and brands have confidence in Bangladesh because the country has demonstrated its capacity to cater to large volumes of work orders, Hassan added.
Moreover, Bangladesh has diversified and a significant amount of exported items are now high-end value-added items, which attracts retailers and brands.
Due to such factors, Bangladesh’s export trend is now on an upward trajectory, with garment exports growing since June, when it recorded a sharp year-on-year drop of 10.48 percent to $2.97 billion.
Garment exports began to recover by July, growing 2.89 percent to $3.17 billion, according to data from the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB). This steady rise continued as exports grew 7.20 percent to $3.32 billion in August and 14.6 percent to $3.01 billion in September.
The largest recent increase was seen in October, when exports jumped 22.80 percent to $3.29 billion, but steady growth is continuing. Garment exports grew 16.25 percent to $3.30 billion in November and 17.45 percent to $3.77 billion in December.
So, the export trend suggests that Bangladesh has been performing well despite the odds.
Former BGMEA President Hassan also added that India has not only been providing financial assistance but has also launched an aggressive marketing drive to grab more of the global market.
For example, the country is arranging a mega-expo called “Bharat Tex 2025” in Delhi in February this year. It will be India’s largest textile expo and will be designed to attract more buyers and business.
Selim Raihan, a professor of economics at the University of Dhaka and executive director of the South Asian Network on Economic Modeling (Sanem), said it is true that some work orders have shifted from Bangladesh to India because of the political crisis.
However, he added that the Indian government has been trying to increase apparel exports for many years but has not performed well since its labour laws are more stringent and wages are higher compared to Bangladesh.
In India, labour unions are also strong, he explained.
He also added that the incentives that the Indian government is planning to offer to exporters must comply with WTO guidelines. Otherwise, the competitor countries will protest, he said.
Bangladesh exported $7.2 billion worth of garments to the US, its single largest export destination, in 2024, according to data from the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB).
The US accounted for 18.72 percent of Bangladesh’s total garment exports last year.
The European Union remained the dominant market, accounting for 50.34 percent of total RMG exports, which amounted to US $19.37 billion.
In 2024, Bangladesh’s Ready-Made Garment (RMG) exports totalled US $38.48 billion.
The UK contributed US $4.3 billion, representing an 11.25 percent share.
Within the EU, key markets included Germany, which imported US $4.83 billion, followed by Spain with US $3.42 billion, and France with US $2.14 billion.
Additionally, exports to Canada reached US $1.24 billion, accounting for 3.23 percent of the market.
Bangladesh is also making notable progress in non-traditional markets like Japan and Australia, reflecting efforts to diversify.
Non-traditional markets contributed US $6.33 billion, or 16.46 percent of total RMG exports.
Among these markets, Japan led with US $1.12 billion, followed by Australia at US $831 million, India at US $606 million, Turkey at US $426 million, and Russia at US $343 million.
