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সৈয়দপুরের টুপি ও জ্যাকেট রপ্তানি হচ্ছে ভারতে

শীত আসি–আসি করছে। আর তাতেই নীলফামারীর শিল্পশহর সৈয়দপুর থেকে শীতের পরিধেয় পোশাক জ্যাকেট ও টুপি রপ্তানি শুরু হয়ে গেছে। স্থানীয় পোশাক প্রস্তুতকারক প্রতিষ্ঠানগুলো জানিয়েছে, এবার প্রায় ১০ কোটি টাকার জ্যাকেট রপ্তানির প্রস্তুতি রয়েছে তাদের। এসব জ্যাকেটের বড় অংশই যাবে ভারতে। ভারতের পাশাপাশি নেপাল ও ভুটানেও রপ্তানি করা হয় এসব জ্যাকেট। পাশাপাশি দেশেও বাজারজাত করা হয় পণ্য দুটি।

সৈয়দপুর রপ্তানিমুখী ক্ষুদ্র গার্মেন্টস মালিক সমিতি সূত্রে জানা যায়, শীত আসার অনেক আগে থেকেই সৈয়দপুরে জ্যাকেট তৈরি শুরু হয়েছে। এসব জ্যাকেট এখন গুদামজাত করা হচ্ছে। শহরের পাঁচ শতাধিক ক্ষুদ্র গার্মেন্টস কারখানায় দিনে-রাতে তৈরি হচ্ছে জ্যাকেট, টুপি ও অন্যান্য শীতের পোশাক। এসব কারখানা গড়ে উঠেছে পাড়া-মহল্লায়। কারখানাগুলোয় রয়েছে ১০টি থেকে দুই শতাধিক স্বয়ংক্রিয় মেশিন। জ্যাকেটসহ শীতের নানা পোশাক তৈরির কাঁচামাল ঝুট কাপড় সংগ্রহ করা হয় ঢাকা, চট্টগ্রাম ও নারায়ণগঞ্জের বড় বড় গার্মেন্টস থেকে।

স্থানীয় ব্যবসায়ী ও কারখানামালিকেরা জানান, এবার প্রতিবেশি দেশগুলো থেকে বেশ ভালো ক্রয়াদেশ মিলছে।

সৈয়দপুর শহরের বাঁশবাড়ি মহল্লার বাসিন্দা মো. সেলিম দুই শতাধিক মেশিন নিয়ে একটি মাঝারি কারখানা গড়ে তুলেছেন নিজ বাড়িতে। গত সোমবার কারখানাটিতে সরেজমিনে দেখা যায়, শত শত জ্যাকেট তৈরি হচ্ছে। একেকজন শ্রমিক দিনে ৩ থেকে ১০টি জ্যাকেট তৈরি করেন। কারখানার মালিক মো. সেলিম জানান, এসব জ্যাকেট ভারতের শিলিগুড়িতে পাঠানো হবে। চলতি শীত মৌসুমে সৈয়দপুরের বিভিন্ন কারখানা থেকে ১০ কোটি টাকার জ্যাকেট ভারতে রপ্তানি হবে। এ ছাড়া নেপাল ও ভুটানেও যাবে দুই কোটি টাকার জ্যাকেট।

শহরের নতুন বাবুপাড়ার এম আর গার্মেন্টসের মালিক মতিয়ার রহমান জানান, এ বছর তিনি দুই কোটি টাকার টুপির ক্রয়াদেশ পেয়েছেন। এ মাসের শেষে এসব টুপি কলকাতায় পাঠানো হবে। এ জন্য শ্রমিক-কর্মচারীরা দিন–রাত কাজ করছেন।

সৈয়দপুর শহরের মুন্সিপাড়া, সাহেবপাড়া, মিস্ত্রিপাড়া, কয়ানিজপাড়া, চাঁদনগর, সৈয়দপুর প্লাজা মার্কেটসহ গ্রামীণ জনপদে গড়ে উঠেছে কয়েক শ গার্মেন্টস কারখানা। এসব কারখানায় তৈরি শীতের পরিধেয় সামগ্রী বিদেশে রপ্তানির পাশাপাশি দেশের বিভিন্ন অঞ্চলেও সরবরাহ করা হয়। দেশের পাইকারি ব্যবসায়ীদের কাছে প্রতিটি জ্যাকেট ৩০০ থেকে ২ হাজার টাকা দামে বিক্রি করা হয়।

জানতে চাইলে সৈয়দপুরের রপ্তানিমুখী ক্ষুদ্র গার্মেন্টস কারখানা মালিক সমিতির সভাপতি আখতার খান প্রথম আলোকে জানান, এবার ভালো ক্রয়াদেশ পাওয়া যাচ্ছে। ব্যাংকগুলো আর্থিক সহায়তায় এগিয়ে এলে এ ব্যবসা আরও বড় হবে। এতে কর্মসংস্থানের সুযোগও বাড়বে। আখতার খান আরও জানান, সৈয়দপুরের বেশির ভাগ গার্মেন্টস কারখানা রেলের জমিতে গড়ে ওঠায় ব্যাংক ও আর্থিক প্রতিষ্ঠানগুলো এসব কারখানায় সহজে ঋণ দিতে চায় না।

Challenges and solutions for Bangladesh’s spinning industry

Bangladesh’s spinning industry, a vital part of its textile and garment sector, has faced severe challenges over the past few years. As a crucial supplier to the country’s export-oriented garment industry, the survival of the spinning sector is essential for maintaining global competitiveness. The collapse of this industry would have serious repercussions, as garment manufacturers rely on locally sourced yarn to manage production costs and meet international lead times.

Figure: Local spinners often have lower production efficiency and smaller output per spindle compared to international competitors, further straining the industry’s margins.

One key challenge for the garment industry is controlling the cost of yarn, which accounts for 60-70% of total production costs. Garment manufacturers prefer sourcing yarn locally to benefit from smaller inventories, quicker quality control responses, and easier payment terms. However, the significant price gap between local and international spinners pushes many Bangladeshi garment manufacturers to purchase yarn from abroad, weakening the domestic spinning sector.

The main reason for this price discrepancy is Bangladesh’s total dependence on imported cotton. Unlike major textile-producing countries like China, India, and Pakistan, which have access to locally grown cotton, Bangladeshi spinners rely entirely on imported raw materials. This dependence not only increases production costs but also limits the industry’s competitiveness globally. As a result, the spinning sector, instead of being a robust backward linkage industry, has become a financial liability.

Currency exchange rates further exacerbate the problem. While competitor countries buy cotton in their local currencies, Bangladeshi spinners must purchase cotton in foreign currencies, making it harder to predict profitability due to exchange rate fluctuations. Additionally, local spinners often have lower production efficiency and smaller output per spindle compared to international competitors, further straining the industry’s margins.

To overcome these challenges, the spinning industry needs to reduce its reliance on cotton by diversifying into blended yarn production. Blended yarns, such as cotton-polyester, cotton-viscose, and other synthetic fibers, could make up at least 50% of the industry’s production capacity. This shift would lower the industry’s overall production costs and enable it to compete more effectively with global players. Moreover, value-added yarns can support garment exporters in producing higher-quality, higher-priced products, enhancing Bangladesh’s reputation in the global market.

Government support is crucial for the survival of the spinning industry. One important step is imposing a 10-15% duty on imported yarn, which would help local spinners compete. Currently, garment exporters turn to Indian or Chinese yarn for its lower price for long lead-time orders. However, if the local spinning industry fails, Bangladeshi garment exporters will lose their ability to fulfill short lead-time orders, which are critical for maintaining competitiveness. At present, local spinners are incurring significant losses, and without government intervention, many spinning mills may be forced to shut down.

Upgrading technology is another essential step. Many Bangladeshi spinners still use outdated first-generation generators, which consume more gas than modern, fourth-generation generators. Upgrading these generators would reduce production costs by lowering gas consumption and making yarn production more efficient. Government funding or incentives could facilitate this much-needed technological upgrade.

In addition to technological improvements, Bangladesh must increase domestic cotton production. Currently, the country imports 97% of its cotton, requiring around 80-90 million bales annually. With the right policy support, Bangladesh could produce up to 20% of its cotton needs within the next five years. This would significantly reduce reliance on imports and lower the cost of raw materials for the spinning industry.

The government should urgently form a policy-making board involving all stakeholders in the spinning industry. This board would be responsible for developing long-term strategies to ensure the industry’s sustainability. Without a strong spinning sector, the garment export industry will struggle to survive, as it depends heavily on efficient and reliable backward linkages.

RMG Export in October -$3.30 bn, with 22.8%

The country’s export earnings in October saw a robust growth of 20.60% catching $4.13 billion, up by $0.71 billion compared to $3.42 billion in the same month in 2023.

RMG Export BD 01

According to data released by the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), in July-October exports grew by 10.8% to reach $15.79 billion, up by $1.54 from $14.25 billion in the same period in 2023. Apparel sector accounted for $12.81 billion of the exports.

In October, the readymade garment (RMG) sector, the country’s highest export earner, and generated $3.30 billion, with 22.8% increase from $2.68 billion in the equivalent period of FY24.

Of the $3.30 billion, knitwear contributed $1.86 billion, a 24.6% increase from $1.50 billion, while woven garments earned $1.44 billion, reflecting a 20.54% increase from $1.20 billion compared to the October of the last fiscal year.

Among other notable sectors, agriculture products experienced positive growth of 7%, reaching $113.1 million, up from $105.8 million in October FY24.

Leather and leather goods witnessed a slight decline of 1%, totaling $83.2 million, while the earnings were $84 million in October 2023.

BUFT Hosts “Fashion Spotlight” Exhibition by BFS 221 Batch

BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT) proudly hosted the “Fashion Spotlight” exhibition on November 10, 2024, an exclusive event organized by the talented students of the Fashion Studies department, BFS 221 batch. This exhibition featured a remarkable array of original fashion designs, highlighting the creativity, skill, and innovation fostered within BUFT’s dynamic academic programs.

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The event served as a platform for students to display their diverse collection of fashion concepts and creations, attracting faculty members, industry experts, and special guests. The presence of respected BUFT faculty members and leaders further enhanced the significance of the event, offering the students valuable feedback and insights to inspire their future endeavors in the fashion industry. The Fashion Spotlight exhibition not only celebrated the hard work and dedication of the BFS 221 batch but also underscored BUFT’s commitment to nurturing a new generation of designers who will shape the future of fashion.

Week ends with few disruptions in RMG zones

Manufacturing activities at the readymade garments (RMG) factory units at major industrial hubs like Savar, Ashulia, Gazipur, and Dhaka were normal despite some areas experiencing a fresh wave of labour unrest.

Although there were no reports of factory closures in Ashulia, five factories were declared closed in the Savar area, and 32 factories were declared closed in Gazipur on Thursday.

Industry insiders said that most of the factories agreed with the workers’ 18-point demand, but still, unrest arose. They said there has been involvement of vested interest groups who want to destabilize the sector and pressure the government.

On the other hand, labour leaders said that only the factories in Ashulia fully accepted the 18-point demand, while the factories of the other areas have yet to do so, or there are communication gaps between the workers and the manufacturers, which created chaos.

Gazipur; epicentre of the fresh unrest

With the permanent closure of Generation Next Fashion of Ashulia earlier this week, the hub is now somewhat free from labour unrest.

However, the Mouchak, Konanari, Shafipur, and Chandra areas of the Gazipur industrial hub emerged as a new epicentre of labour unrest, as 32 RMG factory units were declared closed on Thursday.

Meanwhile, among 32, 14 factory units are owned by three groups, Islam Group, Tusuka Group and TNZ Group, where another 18 medium and large-scale factories were also closed.

Talking to the Dhaka Tribune, Md Tareque Hassan of Tusuka Group said that although they accepted the workers’ 18-point demand, they are still demonstrating.

“They present different demands at different times, most of which are illogical. Maybe some external forces are fueling them to destabilize the sector and pressure the government,” he added.

He also said that they want to resume operations on Saturday with only the workers who want to do work. The workers who were involved in vandalism and unlawful activities will be terminated.

Meanwhile, according to sources, more than 200 workers in Tusuka factories were terminated on Thursday afternoon under Section 26 of the Bangladesh Labour Act, meaning they would get their all-termination benefit.

Regarding the termination, Md Ashrafuzzaman, Organizing Secretary of Jatiyo Garments Sromik Jote Bangladesh, told Dhaka Tribune that the factory authority did not disclose whether the termination occurred due them to being involved in protests.

“More than 200 workers were terminated. We contacted the director, and he said that the terminated workers would get all termination benefits under Section 26 of the BLA. They sent the termination message to the workers’ mobile number and issued a notice on the notice board,” he added.

Factories of Islam Group in the same areas have also been declared closed for the last few days.

Talking to Dhaka Tribune, Shahrier Ahmed, managing director of Islam Garments (U-2), said that they have no issues with wage arrears and also accepted an 18-point demand.

“We are still in the dark about why there was unrest by workers in our factories. With the help of labour leaders, joint forces and authority, we are trying to restore normalcy in the factory. Hopefully, we will resume operation on Saturday,” he added.

Moreover, three TNZ Group factories have been closed for more than two weeks due to wage and allowance arrears.

A senior official told the Dhaka Tribune that they are trying to arrange the required finance, and once they have done so, the factory will resume operation soon.

No incidents of factory closure were reported in Savar and Ashulia on Thursday, but five factories were declared closed there.

Labour leaders urge for more dialogue

The labour leaders said that more dialogue between the manufacturers and workers can reduce the chance of unrest.

Talking to Dhaka Tribune, Babul Akhter, general secretary of Bangladesh Garment and Industrial Workers Federation, said that although all Ashulia factories accepted the 18-point demand, a number of Gazipur and Savar factories have yet to do so.

“There is a chance that even if they agree to the demands, they might not effectively communicate them to the workers. Therefore, I always stress the importance of dialogue. Manufacturers should take the initiative to listen to the workers’ demands directly,” he added.

If they accept any demands, they must inform the workers officially. He also mentioned that dialogue can help prevent the involvement of vested interest groups and their influence.

A top BGMEA official told the Dhaka Tribune that most Gazipur factories provide workers with benefits. However, workers now demand the dismissal of several mid-level and higher-level management personnel, and each time their demands are satisfied, they make new ones.

Given the current circumstances, the manufacturers have been forced to announce closures under the labour law’s “no work, no pay” provision. Unfortunately, workers may bear the brunt of the unrest.

To address the issue, the BGMEA has already met with factory owners in Gazipur and local law enforcement agencies to understand the situation better and establish the best measures.

However, a former director of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) said that after accepting all 18-point demands, why is there still unrest?

“Maybe there are influences from the outsiders, or it may be intentional unrest. A third party wants to spread the unrest to the nearby factories. If it is a factory-specific issue for specific demands, it will not spread to other factories,” he added, saying that the joint force has to step forward and take strict measures against the vandalization.

Meanwhile, no factory closures were reported in the Dhaka area on Thursday.

Moreover, during the protests, the Chittagong, Narayanganj, and Narsingdi area factories also witnessed zero factory closure incidents.

On Thursday, 98.74% of the 397 factories in Savar and Ashulia remained operational. In Gazipur, 96.33% of the 871 factories were functioning, and in the DMP area, 100% of 301 factories were operational.

Nationally, 98.25% of factories operated normally, or 2,082 out of 2,119.

10km tailback as RMG workers block highway for 3rd day

For the third consecutive day, RMG workers from five factories of T&Z Group have blocked Dhaka-Mymensingh highway near Basan area in Gazipur, demanding overdue wages for September and October.

As of 10:00am, a 10-kilometre tailback had formed on the highway, severely impacting traffic flow, according to Gazipur Traffic Police Inspector Abdullah Al Mamun.

To ease the passengers’ hardship, Gazipur traffic police are rerouting Mymensingh-bound buses via Salna and regional roads, directing some vehicles from Gazipur’s Shibbari via Kaliganj and Chandra. Additionally, Dhaka-bound buses from Kishoreganj are being diverted through Kapasia-Kaliganj-Tongi route.

Photo: Collected

Police said around 2,000 workers from T&Z Apparels Limited, Basic Clothing Limited, Apparels Plus, Basic Knitwear Limited, and Apparel Art Limited are currently protesting on the highway. The demonstrators have vowed not to leave the road until their outstanding wages are paid.

Assistant Superintendent of Gazipur Industrial Police, Mosharraf Hossain, confirmed that the protest is going on, and the public’s hardship remains severe.

Gazipur Traffic Police ADC Ashok Kumar Pal said that traffic congestion on the highway is as severe as it was yesterday, causing extended delays.

Commuter Yasin Uddin Mia, travelling with family, started walking after being dropped off far from Dhaka due to the blockage.

“I got off at Bhogra Bypass Junction and had to walk over a kilometre with my wife, children, and bags. It’s exhausting,” he said.

Advocate Ziaul Kabir Khokon, president of the Garment Workers Trade Union Centre’s Gazipur district, told The Daily Star that the workers are demanding immediate payment, stressing that their patience is running thin after repeated delays.

“I heard the company owner might have fled. If dues aren’t paid soon, we will join the workers in their protest,” he said.

Garment export to US falls 6.29% in Jan-Sep

Bangladesh’s garment shipments to the US declined 6.29 percent year-on-year to $5.41 billion in the January-September period this year, according to the Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA).

The US is Bangladesh’s largest export destination. Currently, Bangladesh is the third-largest garment exporter to the US, after China and Vietnam.

Overall, total US apparel imports have decreased by 2.47 percent to $59.32 billion.

Garment export from China to the US declined by 1.95 percent to $12.50 billion, while that from Indonesia by 4.11 percent to $3.16 billion.

However, several countries showed growth in apparel export to the US, including Vietnam (1.27 percent to $11.21 billion), Cambodia (7.15 percent to $2.78 billion), and Pakistan (2.41 to $1.58 billion).

Apparel shipment from India also increased in January-September period at 0.46 percent to $3.63 billion, said the data.

Ctg apparel export up amid unrest in Dhaka

The export of ready-made garments (RMG) from factories in the port city is increasing as there is no labour unrest here.

According to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), RMG goods to the tune of $543 million have been exported from Chattogram in the first four months of the current fiscal year.

In July, garment export growth was 7.94 per cent in Chattogram as factories exported apparel items worth $106 million.

In August, the export growth was 55.98 per cent as factories exported goods worth $166 million.

However, the export growth decreased by 20 per cent in September due to floods. The factories exported $132 million worth of goods.

However, local exporters shipped goods worth $137 million in October.

BKMEA factories at export-processing zones, including Chittagong Export Processing Zone (CEPZ), Karnaphuli Export Processing Zone and Korean Export Processing Zone (KEPZ), are now getting more orders from foreign buyers, said the sources concerned.

On the other hand, the growth of exports from Dhaka-based factories was 17.56 per cent in July and 29.77 per cent in August. It dropped completely in September and October.

International Business Forum Chairman SM Abu Taiyeb said the people of Chattogram are business-friendly and factory environments are friendly to production here.

“Chattogram is important for the seaport. Buyers always seek factories in Chattogram to give orders.”

There are around 4,500 RMG factories in Dhaka where worker unrest is prevailing. But, only 500 to 600 factories are producing RMG goods in Chattogram now, Mr Taiyeb adds.

“For Chittagong port, the cost and risk of carrying goods are less in Chattogram. So, buyers are eager to order goods in Chattogram.”

If the government restarts giving gas to factories in Chattogram, many factories will be set up in the port city, he adds.

RDM Group Managing Director Mustafa Sarwar Riyad said that due to the unrest in Dhaka, foreign buyers are turning to garment factories in Chattogram.

RMG workers assoc demands legal action over use of its ‘rally photo’ by AL on Facebook

The Sommilito Garments Sramik Federation has condemned the use of its May Day rally photo by Awami League’s Facebook page to urge garment workers to join AL rally in Dhaka today (10 November).

In a statement, the organisation urged the authorities concerned to take swift legal action against those responsible for the post.

“Such misleading posts are made for personal and professional defamation and contain completely fabricated and false information,” reads the statement.

“We request all to not believe such false posts and be aware. Avoid promoting or sharing any information without verifying its authenticity,” adds the statement.

Substantial 6.29% drop in US apparel import from Bangladesh is concerning: Ex-BGMEA official

The US apparel imports data by the country from January-September of 2023 and 2024 suggests that while the overall US apparel import saw a slight decline, there was significant movement within the market, with some countries experiencing growth and others declined.

Total US apparel imports decreased by 2.47% between Jan-Sep 2023 and Jan-Sep 2024, said Mohiuddin Rubel, former director of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and additional managing director of Denim Expert Ltd.

Among all the reported countries, a substantial decrease in imports from Bangladesh is concerning, which is -6.29%.

This is a significant drop compared to other major suppliers, he said.

However, the decline was even higher in the January-August period, meaning that a significant growth in import from Bangladesh was achieved in the month of September 2024.

Several countries showed growth in apparel imports to the US, including Vietnam (1.27%), Cambodia (7.15%), and Pakistan (2.41%).

This suggests a shift in sourcing patterns. Varied performance of different apparel-exporting countries, indicate a competitive global market which has been significantly driven by price and supply chain stability

RMG BANGLADESH NEWS