A recent study by two foreign organisations flagged the presence of child labour in Bangladesh’s ready-made garment (RMG) sector, but industry leaders dismissed the findings as baseless.
The UK’s University of Nottingham’s Rights Lab and US-based GoodWeave International conducted the study to assess modern slavery and child labour risks in the RMG industry.
The study report, published in early January, found child labour is present in RMG export supply chains in Bangladesh, especially via subcontracted factories. 100% of the minors interviewed during the study were illegally employed as child labourers in RMG factories.
Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Support Committee Director Shams Mahmud told TBS, “These types of reports are nothing more than baseless write-ups. The 100% export-oriented factories under BGMEA, BKMEA, and BTMA, along with international agencies like the ILO and various Bangladesh government departments, have been working relentlessly to ensure a transparent, accountable, and ethical supply chain.”
The study also found exploitative workplace practices, hazardous conditions for young workers, and low wages at both exporter and subcontracted worksites, among other risks.
Though efforts are underway to improve conditions in the RMG sector, worker exploitation still prevails in hidden, subcontracted supply chain tiers linked to global export, the study report said.
According to the report, data was gathered through surveys and focus group discussions with over 2,000 adult and minor workers across 20 industrial clusters in Dhaka and Chattogram — key RMG production hubs.
Key findings published in the report, titled “Modern slavery and child labour in Bangladesh’s garment sector: documenting risks and informing solutions,” include:
Around 32% of adult RMG workers surveyed are being paid below minimum wage, and 7% of respondents’ income leaves them living below the international poverty line.
Almost a third of factory-based workers report working more than ten hours per day, six days per week, which exceeds the maximum limit for regular and overtime hours set by international and Bangladeshi law and is an indicator of forced labour.
While more women than men work in the RMG sector, they earn on average Tk2,000 ($18) less per month than their male counterparts.
56% of factory workers surveyed have experienced threats or abuse at their current job — 68% of adult workers and 90% of minors who reported abuse were female.
The report provided recommendations for the Bangladeshi government, international buyers, local garment suppliers, non-governmental organisations and trade unions to improve supply chain transparency, conduct risk-based human rights due diligence, adequately compensate workers, mitigate child and forced labour, and establish effective grievance mechanisms.
“Our extensive research on modern slavery in supply chains shows that manufacturing is one of the high-risk industries for forced labour. We are pleased to work with GoodWeave and Bangladesh Labor Foundation on this new research to understand the scale and nature of exploitation in garment production and identify the critical areas where change can help to ensure decent work conditions,” said Zoe Trodd, director of The Rights Lab.
Jon Jacoby, CEO at GoodWeave International, said, “This report by GoodWeave and The Rights Lab highlights persistent risks of exploitation in the hidden tiers of Bangladesh’s garment supply chain while proposing systemic and scaled solutions.
“By joining forces for more effective due diligence, brands, suppliers, governments, trade unions, and civil society can protect the rights and dignity of vulnerable workers and children while supporting the sustainable growth of this crucial industry for Bangladesh. Let’s roll up our sleeves and take the high road — together,” he added.
Bangladesh’s RMG leaders push back
Shams Mahmud, also managing director of Shasha Denim Ltd, said, “Bangladesh has become a benchmark for this in international sourcing, and the commitment of brands, along with the ever-increasing orders and exports, is a validation of this.
“These types of reports are usually released by pressure groups seeking funding through yellow journalism. With the strict sourcing regulations in Bangladesh, no member factories of BGMEA, BKMEA, or BTMA can be linked to this story,” he said, adding that they should publish the names of the factories they surveyed, along with documentary and video evidence.
Echoing Shams, Sparrow Group Managing Director Shovon Islam said, “This survey report seems like preset propaganda against the country’s RMG industry. There is no child labour in any export-oriented garment factories in Bangladesh. The industry was declared child labour-free decades ago.”
He questioned the survey’s location, asking, “Was it conducted in handloom factories that produce lungis for local people?”
The UK university should share their findings, including factory names, with BGMEA, BKMEA, and the labour ministry’s Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishments (DIFE), Shovon said.
“The apparel industry is highly compliant at this time. The ILO, Better Work Initiative, DIFE, and BGMEA closely monitor it,” he said.
Shovon said the Better Work Improvement Cycles conduct thorough audits on safety and labour practices. “If they find any violations, they make them public through their portal. They also send notifications about their findings to all brands and buyers. Additionally, brands conduct several audits every month, along with third-party audits every three months,” he added.
