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Bangladesh has huge potential to lead sustainable fashion: ICCB

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RMG Bangladesh
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According to the International Chamber of Commerce-Bangladesh (ICCB) Quarterly News Bulletin, Bangladesh has huge potential to lead in sustainable fashion. By recycling textile waste and promoting the market for second-hand clothing, the industry can reduce environmental damage and increase profits.

Bangladesh is one of the world’s largest textile exporters. Bangladesh has some of the most environmentally friendly factories in the garment industry. Many factories are recognized for their sustainable practices, setting an example for the global textile and garment industry.

The report highlighted that the circular model can help Bangladesh achieving renewable energy goals and reduce dependence on fossil fuels by producing energy from waste.

The report also highlighted that Bangladesh generates about 3,000 tons of plastic waste every day, of which only 30 percent is recycled. In addition, the irregular disposal of electronic waste and agricultural waste further exacerbates the environmental damage. Investing in recycling infrastructure and waste-to-energy projects can reduce these problems and also generate economic benefits.

Some developed countries have already taken steps to demonstrate the potential of a circular economy. The Netherlands has set a goal of halving its use of raw materials by 2030. Sweden is converting 99 percent of household waste into energy. Outdoor clothing brand Patagonia is ensuring sustainability by repairing and reprocessing clothing, an example of waste reduction and circularity.

Bangladesh is one of the most vulnerable countries to climate change. Therefore, adopting a circular economy model is not only necessary but also a great opportunity.

As a rapidly developing country, Bangladesh faces environmental challenges such as waste management, pollution, and resource depletion. Transitioning to a circular economy can solve these problems and open up new horizons for economic growth.

২০ শতাংশ অর্ডার বাতিল, বন্ধের ঝুঁকিতে শত পোশাক কারখানা

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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গত ৬ মাসে প্রায় ২০ শতাংশ তৈরি পোশাকের অর্ডার বাতিল করেছে বিদেশি ক্রেতারা। শ্রমিক অসন্তোষে এখনও আস্থা পাচ্ছেন না তারা। উদ্যোক্তারা জানিয়েছেন, আশুলিয়া এলাকার কারখানাগুলো নিয়ে আস্থা কম তাদের। বিজিএমইএ ও বিকেএমইয়ের হিসাবে, পরিস্থিতির উন্নতি না হলে আগামী ৬ মাসে সারাদেশে প্রায় ১০০ কারখানা বন্ধ হবে।

সাভার ও আশুলিয়ায় ছোট-বড় পোশাক কারখানার সংখ্যা ৪৫০টি। জুলাই অভ্যুত্থান পরবর্তী শ্রমিক অসন্তোষের কবলে এই এলাকার কারখানাগুলো। বন্ধ হয়েছে বিজিএমইএ ও বিকেএমইএ-এর তালিকাভুক্ত প্রায় ২০০ কারখানা।

ব্যবসায়ীরা জানিয়েছেন, আশুলিয়া এলাকার শ্রমিক অসন্তোষ পর্যবেক্ষণ করছেন বিদেশি ক্রেতারা। এসব কারখানায় কাজ দিতে আস্থা পাচ্ছেন না তারা।

বিকেএমইএ সভাপতি মোহাম্মদ হাতেম বলেন, ‘ব্র্যান্ড ও বায়াররা এখন আশুলিয়া বেল্টের যে কোনো ফ্যাক্টরিতে কাজ দেওয়ার ক্ষেত্রে খুব সতর্ক, সচেতন। তারা অনেকটাই আস্থাহীনতায় ভুগছে। আমাদের অর্ডার যে অন্য জায়গায় যাচ্ছে তার প্রমাণটা সামনে পাওয়া যাবে।’

ব্যবসায়ীরা বলছেন, ৬ মাসের অস্থিরতার ধকল আগামী বছরের জুন পর্যন্ত বইতে হবে। পরিস্থিতি সামাল দেওয়া না গেলে আগামী ৬ মাসে আরও ১০০ কারখানা বন্ধ হওয়ার আশঙ্কা রয়েছে।

মোহাম্মদ হাতেম বলেন, ‘তারা হয়ত চেষ্টা করছে ব্যাংকের সাথে কোনো নেগোসিয়েশন করে একটা পর্যায়ে গিয়ে আবার যদি পারে চালু করবে। না হলে তারা হয়ত পার্মানেন্টলি বন্ধ হয়ে যাবে। অর্থাৎ আগামী ১ বছরে আরও শ খানেক ফ্যাক্টরি বন্ধ হয়ে যাওয়ার আশঙ্কা আমরা করছি।’ 

শাশা ডেনিমসের ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালক শামস মাহমুদ বলেন, ‘শতভাগ ফ্যাক্টরি সচল রাখতে পারলেই কিন্তু আমরা ব্যাংকের ঋণ শোধ বা কর্মীদের বেতন চালু রাখতে পারব। কিন্তু এখন যদি আমার ২০ ভাগ ক্যাপাসিটিতে ফ্যাক্টরি চালাতে হয় তাহলে যেটা হবে আমি তো আর্থিকভাবে সবল হবো না।’

যদিও অর্থনীতিবিদেরা বলছেন, বহুজাতিক কোম্পানিগুলো বাংলাদেশ থেকে গড়পড়তা সস্তা পোশাক কিনছে। ফলে তারাও বাংলাদেশের ওপর নির্ভরশীল। তাই সাময়িক অস্বস্তি থাকলেও বড় আকারে বাজার হারানোর আশঙ্কা নেই।

সিপিডির গবেষণা পরিচালক খন্দকার গোলাম মোয়াজ্জেম বলেন, ‘ভিয়েতনাম বলি কম্বোডিয়া বলি, কারও এত বড় সাপ্লাই বেজ নেই। সুতরাং বড়ভাবে এখান থেকে মার্কেট শিফট হয়ে যাওয়ার কোনো আশঙ্কা নেই। তবে সাময়িক কারণে কিছু সময়ের জন্য হয়ত কিছু অর্ডার এদিক সেদিক হতে পারে।’

তবে, ক্ষতি কাটাতে আগামী শীতের জন্য কাজ পেতে আগাম তৎপরতার কোনো বিকল্প নেই বলে মনে করছেন ব্যবসায়ীরা।

11th Surat International Textile Expo aims in strengthening Gujarat textile industry

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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The 11th edition of the Surat International Textile Expo is set to take place from 10th to 12th January 2025, at the SIECC Campus in Sarsana, Surat. Organised by the Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry, the expo aims to bolster the region’s textile sector by providing a platform for manufacturers, dealers, wholesalers, and retailers to showcase their products and services.

The event will feature a wide range of cutting-edge textile technology, including weaving machinery such as waterjet, rapier, and air jet machines, power looms, needle looms, and high-speed warping machines. In addition, visitors can expect to see the latest advancements in knitting machines, jacquard technology, digital printing machines, and spare parts.

The Surat International Textile Expo is expected to attract significant industry attention and contribute to the continued growth and development of the textile sector in South Gujarat.

Addressing the Challenges of Bangladesh’s RMG Sector in 2025

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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Bangladesh’s RMG sector is navigating significant challenges as we move into 2025. A critical issue is the post-COVID workforce shift, which has seen many workers, especially women, transition to other sectors due to rising living costs in Greater Dhaka, the hub of RMG factories. This has led to a severe workforce shortage, hampering production capacity and making it difficult to meet export targets.

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Additionally, the sector faces hurdles from inadequate skilled labor and banking sector constraints. Limited financing options and high loan burdens have left many promising projects under debt pressure, diminishing exporters’ bargaining power in the global market. While Bangladesh remains appealing to buyers for its cheap labor, over-reliance on this advantage is no longer sustainable amid increasing global competition.

To address these issues, the RMG sector must prioritize workforce retention by improving wage structures and living conditions for workers. Investments in skill development and automation are essential to enhance productivity and meet evolving demands. Policymakers, including the NBR and banking institutions, need to collaborate with industry leaders to create supportive financial policies that alleviate debt burdens and modernize banking infrastructure.

Balancing affordability for buyers with long-term sustainability for manufacturers is key to maintaining Bangladesh’s leadership in the global apparel market.

Strength of Bangladesh’s RMG sector continues to rely on a few key pillars: affordable labor, back-to-back LC facilities, bonded warehouse systems, and government support. These factors have laid the foundation for our position as a global leader in apparel exports. However, to sustain and grow in this competitive sector, unwavering support from the government is critical.

What truly sets our RMG sector apart is the presence of a dynamic, talented generation of entrepreneurs. These individuals are working tirelessly, turning challenges into opportunities and making the impossible possible. Their innovative approaches, adaptability, and dedication have brought new energy and vision to the industry.

Author – Salauddin Ahmed Head of Operation, Bunon a knowledge centric platform

Bangladesh showcases garment industry’s sustainability at Dhaka Trade Fair

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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The Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) has taken a significant step at the 29th Dhaka International Trade Fair by establishing a Special Sourcing Zone, where Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), showcasing the industry’s remarkable achievements, strengths, and unwavering commitment to sustainable practices.

The zone highlights Bangladesh’s capability to produce high-value garments of international standards, as well as the industry’s vision and progress towards environmentally friendly and sustainable development. This is a great opportunity to present Bangladesh’s garment sector to the global audience including brands and buyers.

The month-long trade fair, inaugurated by Chief Advisor Dr. Muhammad Yunus, commenced yesterday at the Bangladesh-China Friendship Exhibition Centre in Purbachal.

The BGMEA stall has garnered significant attention, with notable visits from Commerce Advisor Sheikh Bashir Uddin, BGMEA Administrator and Vice Chairman of the EPB Anwar Hossain, along with esteemed members of the BGMEA Support Committee and other prominent industry leaders.

This initiative is poised to strengthen Bangladesh’s image as a reliable and responsible garment manufacturing hub, attracting further investments and fostering long-term sustainable growth for the sector.

An In-Depth Look at Ring Spinning

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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Dewan Mashuq Uz Zaman

The oldest and most traditional method of spinning yarn in the production of textiles is ring spinning. Its origins can be traced back to the early 1800s, when the process evolved from simple spinning processes to a more complex mechanical system. Even though the foundations of ring spinning have remained mostly same, the machines have undergone significant updates, which include the incorporation of cutting-edge technology to increase their efficiency and precision. Ring spinning is widely acknowledged as the gold standard for yarn quality. This is due to the fact that the technique of ring spinning produces superb, fine yarns that are unbeaten in terms of their strength, smoothness, and warmth. Its continued popularity can be attributed to its adaptability, which allows it to accommodate a wide variety of yarn counts, as well as its suitability for high-end fabrics, which require a high level of strength and a pleasant hand feel.
The Ring Spinning Process

The ring spinning method uses a straightforward yet incredibly effective mechanism to turn roving into yarn. The first phase involves drawing and attenuating the roving input, which is accomplished through a three-roll drafting system. At this stage, pairs of rollers rotating at increasing speeds meticulously pull the fibers into a fine strand, ensuring they are aligned and arranged in a parallel fashion.

After that, a high-speed spindle equipped with a bobbin is utilized to twist the drafted fibers into a cohesive yarn structure. The ring traveler, a tiny metallic element, interacts with the spindle and regulates the winding tension while imparting the necessary twist to the yarn. The spindle’s rotation drives the twisting action, which increases the yarn’s strength and ensures its consistency and durability.

Simultaneously, the yarn is wound onto the bobbin. The synchronized movement of the spindle, the ring traveler, and the ring rail—which moves up and down—ensures that the yarn is evenly guided onto the bobbin. This results in the creation of a cylindrical package known as a ring cop.

Finally, once the bobbins are filled with yarn, the yarn is transferred onto larger packages, such as cones or cheeses, which are more suitable for subsequent knitting or weaving processes.

Features and Advantages of Ring Spinning

The unmatched versatility of ring spinning machines allows for the creation of yarns with a broad variety of counts, from extremely fine to coarser yarns. Carded yarns, combed yarns, and other combinations of natural and synthetic fibers can all be processed using the method. Ring spinning yields yarn of extraordinary quality, with outstanding strength, softness, and a smooth texture. For high-end textiles, such as fine shirting, knitting, and luxury fabrics that require premium yarn qualities, ring-spun yarn is the recommended option due to these attributes.

Additionally, ring spinning is widely applicable to a variety of yarn kinds. Both carded and combed yarns can be made for spinning cotton. While carded yarns maintain more natural diversity and are less expensive to make, comb yarns, which use longer and more aligned fibers, show higher uniformity and smoothness. The ring frame is also used for worsted and woolen yarns in wool spinning. While worsted yarns utilize longer, combed fibers to create a smoother, stronger product with greater alignment, woolen yarns employ shorter fibers, which gives them a bulkier appearance. This versatility helps explain why ring spinning continues to rule the textile sector.

Technical Aspects of Ring Spinning Machine

A number of essential parts make up ring spinning machines, each of which has a distinct function in guaranteeing the efficient and seamless manufacture of yarn. The spindle, which holds and rotates the bobbin at incredibly high speeds—between 12,000 and 25,000 revolutions per minute—is essential to the machine’s functioning. The traveler, which revolves around the ring, controls the winding process and gives the yarn its twist. Ring spinning is characterized by the interaction between the ring and traveler, where the yarn tension and twist application are controlled by surface friction and drag. To withstand extended use at high speeds, the ring itself—which is usually composed of hardened steel—must be smooth, durable, and wear-resistant.

Equally important is the drafting mechanism, which establishes the yarn’s strength and evenness. In order to guide the fibers through regulated drafting zones, modern machines employ a three-over-three drafting system with fluted bottom rollers and rubber-coated top rollers. The apron system, which consists of tiny synthetic belts, minimizes inconsistencies by ensuring that fibers are guided consistently throughout the drafting process. Balloon control rings also optimize yarn tension and minimize breakage by decreasing the diameter of the yarn balloon that forms during winding.

Modern Innovations and Developments

Technological advancements have overcome the conventional limitations of the ring spinning process, making it faster, more efficient, and more cost-effective. The productivity of modern machines, such as the Rieter G 38, is significantly increased thanks to the sophisticated automation and electronic systems that are attached to them. The introduction of automatic doffing systems, which swiftly replace full bobbins with empty ones, is a key development that has occurred in recent times. A doffing cycle can be completed by machines of the most recent generation in just ninety seconds, which is a twenty-five percent improvement over machines of earlier generations. The production output is immediately increased as a result of this innovation, particularly for yarn counts that are coarser and have shorter spinning cycles.

A further significant feature is the ability to regulate the speed of the spindle and the tension of the yarn. By utilizing a short-balloon configuration, the Rieter G 38 is able to prevent yarn tension peaks, hence reducing the amount of yarn that is broken. Additionally, it is able to increase spindle rates by up to 2% without compromising the quality of the yarn. The lifespan of the ring traveller is extended as a result of this invention, which also improves the overall efficiency of the machine. In addition, the utilization of Individual Spindle Monitoring (ISM) devices ensures that damaged spindles are discovered promptly, hence reducing the amount of time that the machine is offline and enhancing the productiveness of the operator.

The adaptability of modern ring spinning machines is another advantage they offer in the production of yarn. Compact spinning attachments make it possible to produce compact yarns that are superior to typical ring-spun yarns in terms of their strength, smoothness, and consistency by virtue of their compactness. It is also possible to modify machines so that they can create specialized yarns, such as core-spun yarns and slub yarns, which expands the range of applications for these machines. Because of these improvements, ring spinning has become a technology that is utilized in the textile production industry that is both adaptable and forward-thinking.

Ring spinning has maintained its position at the forefront of yarn manufacturing because to the exceptional yarn quality, diversity, and adaptability found in this technique. Despite the fact that the technology has a number of downsides, such as slower production rates and higher energy consumption, many of these problems have been successfully addressed by technological advancements. Present-day ring spinning machines are equipped with features such as increased spindle speeds, automated solutions, and advanced monitoring systems. These characteristics significantly boost productivity while simultaneously reducing expenses.

In the highly competitive textile business, the ability of ring spinning to produce yarns that are fine, durable, and smooth ensures that it will continue to be relevant in the long future. Ring spinning continues to be the method of choice for producing high-quality yarns for both traditional and contemporary applications, despite the fact that technological developments have led to increased productivity and decreased costs.

Results from ITMF’s 29th Global Textile Industry Survey (GTIS)  – November 2024

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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Dr.  Christian Schindler, Director General & Dr. Olivier Zieschank, Director

International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF)

Zurich, Switzerland  – December, 2024

A) Business situation deteriorated slightly, but slow long-term improvements persist

The 29th ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey (GTIS), conducted in November 2024, analysed the business situation across regions and market segments in the global textile industry. Globally, 38% of participants rated the business situation as “Poor,” 42% as “Satisfactory,” and 20% as “Good,” resulting in a balance of -17 percentage points (pp). This represents decline since the last survey (-13pp) but shows recovery from the -46pp low of November 2023 (see Graph 1 and 2).

Graph 1: Business Situation (World balance), September and November 2024

Graph 2: Business situation (World balance*) since May 2021

*Balance = share of respondents answering good vs. poor Source: 8-29th ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey (29th: 18-25.11.2024) | last data point = November 2024

The global textile value chain continues struggling with a very difficult business environment that is marked by relative weak demand and elevated costs resulting in low profit margins (see Article 6). Order intake has improved slightly but is still in negative territory resulting in relatively low capacity utilisation rates. Nevertheless, it is worthwhile noting that 20% of companies are reporting good business and 42% are satisfied. After “Weak demand”, the next biggest concern is “Geopolitics”. Companies are worried that the military conflicts (Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the war in Gaza/Lebanon) as well as the immanent trade conflicts (various tariff increases were announced by the incoming Trump-administration) will continue to hamper global growth. The IMF is forecasting that global economic growth in 2025 will be 3.2%, practically unchanged from 2024 (3.3%). While inflation has come down both in the US and Europe to the target levels of around 2% allowing central banks to consider continuing lowering their interest rates, they are at the same time cautious as a potential “tariff-war” might cause new inflation pressure.

Regionally, South America and Africa were the only areas with positive balances (+28 pp and +27 pp, respectively, see Graph 3). South America’s good business situation is closely linked to Brazil’s strong domestic economy and the relatively small trade volume and therefore a reduced exposure to the global economy. The good business situation in Africa is closely linked to the predominant garment industry that is performing better than all the other segments. All other regions recorded a negative balance. South Asia, Europe (including Türkiye and Central Asia), and North and Central America, reported worsening balances. East and South-East Asia showed slight improvements, despite East Asia remaining at -49 pp. While short-term trends show varied regional performances, all regions but Europe reflect long-term improvement from earlier lows.

Graph 3: Business situation by region since May 2021

(1) incl. Türkiye and Central Asia | (2) incl. Central America | (a) incl. woven and knits | (b) incl. auxiliary and dyes, (c) incl. dyed, finished and printed fabrics

Among market segments, the garment industry posted the most favorable result (-5 pp), driven by 23% reporting “Good” business conditions (see Graph 4). Finished fabrics and yarns producers also saw moderate improvements. However, woven and knitted fabrics recorded the lowest balance (-67 pp), with no participants rating conditions as “Good.” Long-term recovery trends are currently only visible in the garment and to a weaker extent in the home textile segments.

Graph 4: Business situation by segment since May 2021

The global textile value chain continues struggling with a very difficult business environment that is marked by relative weak demand and elevated costs resulting in low profit margins. Order intake has improved slightly but is still in negative territory.

B) Global textile industry remains optimistic about future business prospects

ITMF’s 29th Global Textile Industry Survey (GTIS) surveyed the global textile industry’s outlook for the next six months. It found a positive global sentiment with a balance of +27 percentage points (pp) between optimistic and pessimistic responses (see Graph 5). This marks the second consecutive month of improvement. Since the beginning of 2023 business expectations are in the range between +20 and +30 pp. This positive outlook did not change even though the business situation has not improved significantly since. This conundrum illustrates that companies have not expected this difficult business environment – above all weak demand – to persist for such an extended period. They nevertheless remain optimistic about the future.

Graph 5: Business expectations (World balance*) in September and November 2024

Graph 6: Business expectations (World balance*) since May 2021

*Balance = share of respondents who answer more or less favourable | Source: 8-29th ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey (29th: 18-25.11.2024) | last data point = November 2024

Some incremental improvement of the business situation can be observed in the last 9 months justifying companies’ replies of a more favourable business environment in six months’ time. Nevertheless, anecdotal evidence suggests that most companies did not anticipate that weak demand would remain the main concern for such a long time. Many experienced company representatives say that they have never seen such a long period of relative low order income in their career.

Regionally, South America reported the most optimism at +60 pp (see Graph 7), followed by North and Central America (+38 pp) and South Asia (+33 pp). While South-East Asia and Africa expressed also a positive outlook (both at +27 pp), Europe (+16 pp) and East Asia (-11 pp) lagged. Expectations have improved over the past year in all regions except East Asia, where they deteriorated, and Africa, where they stagnated.

Graph 7: Business expectations by region since May 2021

(1) incl. Türkiye and Central Asia | (2) incl. Central America | (a) incl. woven and knits | (b) incl. auxiliary and dyes, (c) incl. dyed, finished and printed fabrics | Balance = share of respondents who answer more or less favourable | Source: 8-29th ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey (29th: 18-25.11.2024) | last data point = November 2024

By segments, yarn producers ranked highest at +41 pp (see Graph 8), followed by producers of fabrics (+33 pp) and fibres (+25 pp). Home textiles and technical textiles producers also reflected positive sentiment, albeit with some recent declines. Producers of textile chemicals/ dyes/auxiliaries remained the lowest at +15 pp, though still improved from earlier lows. Overall, the industry reflects cautious optimism with steady recovery trends across most segments.

Graph 8: Business expectations by segment since May 2021

C) Order intake improved globally with South America and garment sector leading

ITMF’s 29th GTIS also evaluated order intake sentiment. While 42% of participants globally rated order intake as satisfactory, the balance of positive versus negative responses improved to -12 percentage points (pp), slightly up from -14 pp in September 2024 and up from a low of -50 pp in November 2023. Graph 9 shows that order intake has improved continuously since November 2023, though the balance remains in negative territory.

Graph 9: Order intake (World balance*) since May 2021

Expectations for order intake indicate that companies are anticipating a further improvement going forward into 2025 (see Graph 10). Despite the business environment remaining very challenging, brands and retailers have steadily reduced their inventory levels during the past 24 months. This will eventually force them to place higher and/or more frequent orders.

Graph 10: Order intake (World balance* and expectations)

*Balance = share of respondents answering good vs. poor | Source: 8-29th ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey (29th: 18-25.11.2024) | last data point = November 2024

Regionally, South America exhibited the strongest order intake performance (see Graph 11), achieving a balance of +40 pp, driven by 44% of respondents rating conditions as “Good” (see Graph 11). Africa followed with a neutral balance of +/-0 pp, while Europe reported the weakest sentiment at -41 pp. Trends indicate improvement in most regions, though South Asia, Africa, and Europe have seen short-term declines.

Graph 11: Order intake by region since May 2021

By segment, the garment industry recorded the highest sentiment with a balance of +6 pp, reflecting an ongoing recovery from past lows (see Graph 12). Conversely, the textile machinery industry was the weakest segment at -62 pp. Despite overall global improvement, challenges remain.

Graph 12: Order intake by producer type since May 2021

a) incl. woven and knits | (b) incl. auxiliary and dyes, (c) incl. dyed, finished and printed fabrics | Balance = share of respondents answering good vs. poor | Source: 8-29th ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey (29th: 18-25.11.2024) | last data point = November 2024

D) Weak demand remains THE key concern

The 29th ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey (GTIS) also examined key concerns among textile industry participants. “Demand“ remained the top global concern, cited by 60% of respondents, although its significance has declined over recent months. “Geopolitics” and “lack of talents / workers” followed, with 41% and 31%, respectively (see Graph 13).

Graph 13: Major concerns in September vs. November 2024

That 60% of participants saw in November 2024 weak demand as THE major concern (down from 67% in September) reveals that companies are still struggling to keep their capacities running at acceptable rates on average. Interestingly, cost concerns are not among the top 3 concerns. Of course, costs are still important concerns, with “high energy prices”, “high raw material prices”, and “high logistic costs” reaching 28%, 25%, and 17% of respondents, respectively, but they do not dominate the concern landscape as they did in previous years.

Elevated “energy prices” remain a major problem in some countries like Bangladesh or Pakistan, due to a shortage of supply. That “geopolitics” was ranking second in November 2024 did not come as a surprise with two major conflicts – Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the war in Gaza and Lebanon – still waging on. The uncertainty of the future US administration’s direction under President Donald Trump certainly contributed to “geopolitics” coming as the second major concern. To what extent the new US-administration will disrupt global trade by launching a “tariff-war” remains to be seen.

It is interesting to see that “Lack of talent/workers” has become a major concern for the textile value chain. This result is mostly felt in South America and must be regarded as a structural concern across all regions and segments, not only a short-term problem.

“Inflation” was a major concern during the year 2023. It peaked at 48% in May 2023 but came down continuously afterwards. Since July 2024 inflation as a concern rose again from 17% to 25%. It seems that it is unclear for many survey participants whether inflation is back to normal levels allowing major central banks to lower interest rates further or not. A “tariff-war” would most likely lead to higher import prices and eventually to higher inflation rates.

Graph 14: Major concerns since January 2022

(1) Lack of or delayed receipt of | (2) Adoption of | Source: 8- 29th ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey (29th: 18-25.11.2024)

E) Inventory levels keep falling

The 29th ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey assessed inventory levels across the global textile value chain. The results show that levels remained average despite a slight decrease, reflecting the challenging business environment the entire textile value chain finds itself in since the beginning of 2023 (see Graph 15). A relative low order intake due to weaking demand and high inventory levels forced companies across all segments to manage their inventories well according to their respective demand requirements.

Graph 15: Inventory level* How would you rate your current inventory level?

At brand and retail level, apparel inventories in the US have stabilized overall in the past few months at around USD 89 billion in September 2024 after falling from a peak in September 2022 of around USD 100 billion (see Graph 16). While wholesale inventories continued falling slightly, at retail level they rose. It seems that brands and retailers have increased inventories slightly with seasonal merchandise going into the festive season, while wholesalers are not yet feeling the need to increase their stocks.

Graph 16: Evolution of apparel inventory levels in the USA [last data point = Sep 2024] *

* Retail Estimates of End-of-Month Retail Inventories, Clothing and clothing accessories stores, US census | Wholesales: Adjusted estimates of Monthly Sales of Merchant Wholesalers, Except Manufacturers’ Sales Branches and Offices, Apparel, Piece Goods, & Notions, US census | Source: US Census, illustration: ITMF

Bangladesh business leaders optimistic for 2025 amid political uncertainty, says EIB survey

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RMG Bangladesh
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Bangladesh’s business leaders are expressing optimism about potential growth in 2025, contingent on controlling inflation and successful banking reforms. However, concerns about political stability and public order loom large, according to a recent survey conducted by Economic Intelligence Bangladesh (EIB), a collaboration between The Business Standard and DataSense.

The survey reveals that 45 per cent of business executives believe that managing inflation and implementing necessary reforms in the banking sector are the most significant opportunities for enhancing their performance in the coming year. The report highlights those sectors such as ready-made garments (RMG), furniture, tea, aviation, and pharmaceuticals are particularly focused on these developments.

In addition to domestic concerns, leaders are eyeing increased foreign exchange reserves and the prospect of Donald Trump returning to the US presidency as potential catalysts for business growth. However, a striking 75 per cent of respondents expressed fears that political uncertainty and instability in law and order pose the greatest risks for businesses in 2025. This survey was conducted in December 2024, shortly before interim Chief Adviser Prof Muhammad Yunus indicated that national elections might occur at the end of 2025 or in early 2026.

Furthermore, the survey indicates that 60 per cent of executives consider high-interest burdens from loans to be a significant downside for the upcoming year, with high energy and utility prices and bureaucratic inefficiency also highlighted as pressing concerns.

Md Abdul Jabbar, managing director of DBL Group, emphasised the need to minimise corruption to boost investor confidence and improve the business climate. Meanwhile, RN Paul, managing director of Pran-RFL Group, urged business leaders to remain politically neutral and focus on their operations, advocating for collaboration with the government to facilitate business growth.

Regarding expectations for production growth and costs, the outlook remains cautious. While 60 per cent of respondents are optimistic about earning growth—15 per cent of whom anticipate high earnings—80 per cent predict an increase in production costs. Of those, 50 per cent expect a moderate rise, while 30 per cent brace for a steep increase, raising concerns about profitability in the year ahead.

A Discussion on the Garment Sector

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RMG Bangladesh
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Shovon Islam, owner and MD of Sparrow Industries

Dr. Forrest Cookson, Economist

This article is a discussion between Shovon Islam the owner of Sparrow Industries and Forrest Cookson.  The discussion covered some of the essential issues facing the ready-made garment sector.  The health and development of the sector are the key to the future of the Bangladesh economy over the next decade.  Economic growth is the central objective of Bangladesh. Achievement of common aspirations of a higher living standard, a more equal distribution of income and wealth, better infrastructure, improved health and education all depend on achieving a strong growth of the economy.  The growth of the economy in FY24 was very low, well below 4%. Declining exports and imports, little investment, lower government consumption expenditures all lead to GDP growth of 0-1% at best.  Return to growth of the economy is dependent on export growth. Over the next decade the only way that export growth of 7-9% can be achieved is through expansion of the garment sector.  Diversification of exports has been an aspiration for decades, but no progress has been made.  While there are good prospects for diversification it will take many years before these can become significant; growth over the next decade depends on the RMG sector.

We began discussing the tax and subsidy position.  There is a 1% tax on the earnings in the garment sector when the funds are received in Bangladesh.  There is a subsidy of 0.3% received by the exporting company based on the shipment documents. The administration of these two are different.  The 1% tax is simple, Bangladesh Bank takes it off the payments from the foreign buyers.  The management of the subsidy is difficult.  Shovon explained that it takes a long time to obtain this subsidy and there is a large amount of documentation needed.  It is much simpler to combine the two and collect a tax of 0.7% on the received payments.   About 10% of the costs of the garment are local on which the VAT is paid.  Finally, the corporate tax must be paid 15% for regular factory and 12% for green factory.

The second topic is the old issue of the large number of Sri Lankan and Indian technicians working in the industry.  The Sri Lankans came when the garment industry collapsed with the civil war.  Shovon observes that the garment industry is rebuilding in Sri Lanka and many working here are returning. Conditions are favorable in Sri Lanka with excellent port facilities, well-educated labor force, and law and order.  I asked him why these persons cannot be replaced by Bangladeshi technicians. He was clear that skilled technicians in Bangladesh are rare.  First, the basic education system is poor, and the foundation of reading and arithmetic are not present.  Technical schools and universities do not produce persons interested in doing this kind of work.  It is doubtful if much progress can be made quickly.

I asked about the much discussed question of shifting production from China to Bangladesh.  First there is the issue of the Chinese Economic Zone on the left side of the Kharnapuli River. This we believe is not yet complete although its construction has been going on for years.   I assume that there are issues of electricity and gas, a considerable demand for a major Economic Zone. As Chinese exports have decreased over the past seven years, much of the production has shifted to the domestic market, demand increases with rising income. One must differentiate between the Chinese reducing garment exports as they shift production to domestic markets and shifting part of their export production to other countries. The previous Government had lined up a substantial   volume of Chinese capacity that was prepared to shift to Bangladesh. Shovon indicated that about 30% of this capacity has pulled back due to the revolution in Bangladesh and the rest is waiting to see how conditions develop.  One should be aware that the United States is of course aware of Chinese industry shifting to other locations to avoid the potential rise in tariffs that Trump has threatened. 

Shovon explained that a large volume of woven garments made in Bangladesh were denim, a cotton-based fabric.  The cutting tolerances for denim garments are quite high compared to higher value garments.  A large part of Bangladesh woven exports is made from denim; orders are large so production runs are long.  Bangladesh is very efficient in producing these garments.  Another part of the woven production is of higher quality and is difficult to make in a timely manner.  Before sewing there is considerable preproduction work and great care must be taken with the cutting as the shape of the garment must be exact; the washing must be carefully managed as shrinkage differs for each roll of cloth. Time is short as fabric has to be shipped to Bangladesh, clear customs which takes excessive time; after the arrival of the cloth, preproduction actions take place, the garment is then sewn, washed shipped to Chittagong and exported. Large container ships do not come to Bangladesh due to the shallow Bay of Bengal. Thus, goods are transshipped through Colombo or Singapore. The transport and customs take too much time squeezing the time available for production work.  This is the fundamental reason why most of the woven garments produced are of the simpler type. The Chinese garments shifting to Bangladesh were more complex. The future of the shift of Chinese production to Bangladesh is uncertain.  In fact, there was quite a lot of FDI lined up sourced from China and Japan. With the overthrow of the Hasina government these investors have stepped back to wait to see what happens.  There are clear issues of law and order, political stability, energy availability, and an orderly labor force that have emerged with the Interim Government.  Establishment of law and order will take time, but this is clearly a precondition for FDI.  Political stability comes with an election; everyone knows that there will be an election and until that is completed no one knows if the country will settle down.  The same is true of the electricity supply where gas will be either imported [LNG] or new discoveries will be made to enable increased domestic production.  If gas fields are discovered, it will take some time to develop and begin production. Construction of a large degasification facility will take several years to construct.  While the Interim

Government is doing an excellent job of untangling the power sector issues, there are problems everywhere and this is likely to cause Chinese business to defer final decisions to invest.  There are potential conflicts with the Adami project, uncertainty as to the starting date of the nuclear power plant, and the construction of needed transmission systems.  Finally, there have been regular labor disturbances with the arrival of the Interim Government.  The workers believe that wages are too low and are beginning to assert their demands. Many factories have trouble paying wages. All these factors will slow down investors in the textile and RMG sectors.  The conclusion is that increased capacity of production for the EU or the United State is likely

We took up the development of man-made fibers.  Shovon explained that the before Covid about 80% of the woven garments used cotton fabric and 20% man-made fibers; that has shifted to 55/45 so garments made from manmade fibers are almost half.  However, there are no factories being constructed to manufacture such fibers and the industry must import all the fabric used.  Attracting an investor or two is important as this is an area where demand is growing.  

The sector suffers from poor electricity supply.  This is an area of tremendous importance if exports are going to increase.  The electricity supply faces so many difficulties that one is not optimistic.  Further the government seems to be headed for an increase in the price but it is not clear if the quality and quantity will increase. Similarly, gas pressure is often too low.  Water supply is plentiful but rules from the EU insist that 75% of the water used must be recycled.

A very serious problem is the large amount of non-performing loans held by RMG factories.  The current drive to recover loans will put great pressure on the owners.  If the banks put more pressure on the owners to repay the loans, then the returns, already low will drive many factories into negative return to equity. This will discourage investment to achieve higher productivity and higher capacity.  Shovon believes many, perhaps most, are earning low returns.  Most factories are built with little owners’ equity, rather using all bank loans. The owners take money out of the business allowing the loans to go into default. This worked do long as the banks and the central bank allowed the buildup of bad loans.  Shovon thought that the stock market is too weak and poorly run to be a source of funding for the RMG sector.

We discussed the condition of compensation of the workers.  He was surprised by the newspaper stories of worker protests at the increment award of 4% bringing the total increment in January to 9%.  He said at his factories everyone was cheering when the news came out. We discussed the basic misconception of many.  The wages that are quoted by the Wage Board starting at Taka 12,500 per month are for workers who are just beginning. and does not include overtime.  The overtime rate is twice the basic wage.  Shovon’s average worker is taking home Taka 30,000 per month.  The amount of overtime depends on the volume of orders.  The problem is not the number of orders but the concentration of production on low-cost products where the competition is fierce.  Owners want to produce as much as possible even if they are making very little.  If there is enough overtime, then the salary of the worker is just fine.  In the past there was widespread loan default. The owners took that.

Shovon and I would agree that the only hope for a strong growth of exports is to shift to higher quality products with shorter production runs and of greater complexity.  These are the type of products the Chinese are exporting but at a declining rate.  One obtains the Chinese reduction in exports by raising the quality of the product. Owners must be prepared to invest in new machinery and equipment to raise productivity.  In that way the owners can earn a higher return and repay their loans.

The Government has important work to do.  First, it should try to improve the industrial engineering departments at the universities and at the technical colleges, with greater focus of the course work on the RMG sector.  Everyone should do an internship in a garment factory. In this way replacements for the Indians and Sri Lankans can be developed. 

Second the electricity should be improved.  Elsewhere Cookson has suggested a special distribution system for the garment factories.  The Power Development Board should work out a system for ensuring there is power. This cannot wait but is a matter of immediate need.

Third Chittagong Port can run better.   The Dhaka-Chittagong Highway is crowded but there are no good solutions that would have an impact starting in two years. A preshipment inspection system for all imports for the RMG sector would ease the Customs problems. Turning over management of the air cargo system would be a big improvement,

Oxfam calls for legal protections for Bangladesh’s informal workers

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RMG Bangladesh
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During a recent meeting with the Labour Reform Commission, Oxfam underscored the urgent necessity for strong legislation and interventions to safeguard the millions of informal workers in Bangladesh, especially those in the ready-made garment (RMG) industry. Presently, over 85 per cent of the country’s workforce is engaged in the informal sector, where they often contend with hazardous working conditions, financial instability, and exploitation.

The gathering, which took place at Srom Bhaban, included representatives from the government, non-governmental organisations, development partners, media, and civil society, aiming to address the critical challenges confronting these workers.

Oxfam and its collaborators urged the Government of Bangladesh to ratify essential International Labour Organization (ILO) conventions, particularly Conventions C188, C189, and C190, which would provide vital legal protections for informal workers, including those in the RMG sector. The organisation proposed the implementation of minimum wage standards, enhanced access to social safety nets such as health insurance and pension plans, and improved enforcement mechanisms to monitor workplace safety and rights.

Syed Sultan Uddin Ahmed, the Head of the Labour Reform Commission, highlighted the importance of protecting informal workers, stating, “Safeguarding informal workers goes beyond economic factors; it is fundamentally a matter of justice. Recognising their contributions honors the dignity of all individuals.”

Mahfuzul Haque, a former secretary of the Ministry of Labour and Employment, supported this view, emphasising that labor rights are essential for sustainable development. He called for efforts to close the gap between policy and practice to protect the country’s most vulnerable workers, particularly within the RMG sector.

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