Textile Engineering College Noakhali (TECN) has cemented its position as a leader in Bangladesh’s textile educational landscape by securing the prestigious title of Best Educational Institute. The Department of Textile (DoT) recognized the college with the title through the Annual Performance Agreement (APA) system.
This recognition signifies TECN’s exceptional performance across various educational metrics, solidifying its commitment to academic excellence.
Textile Engineering College, Noakhali (TECN) has achieved a remarkable feat by clinching the top spot in various categories by the Department of Textiles (DoT) in Bangladesh.
The college secured the coveted first place in the following categories:
Best Textile Engineering College among all government institutions by the Department of Textiles (DoT).
Best Educational Institute through the Annual Performance Agreement (APA) system.
Best Innovative Idea and Innovation Project across all textile institutes and colleges under DoT. Notably, this project, titled “Improved Fire Automation System,” also clinched the top spot at the Ministry of Textile and Jute’s Innovation Competition, surpassing projects from various departments. The project is now set to compete at the national level among all ministries under the Cabinet.
The prestigious institute was named the Best Textile Engineering College, outperforming all other government-run textile engineering colleges. TECN’s excellence extended beyond its core discipline, as it was also recognized as the Best Educational Institute through the Annual Performance Agreement (APA) system.
The APA system serves as a rigorous evaluation framework for educational institutions in Bangladesh. By achieving the top spot, TECN has demonstrably surpassed other institutions in delivering high-quality education, fostering a positive learning environment, and achieving outstanding student outcomes.
This remarkable accomplishment is a testament to the dedication and tireless efforts of TECN’s faculty, staff, and students. Their unwavering commitment to excellence has propelled the college to the forefront of Bangladesh’s educational scene.
TECN’s winning streak didn’t stop there. The college’s innovative spirit shone through as it bagged the Best Innovative Idea and Innovation Project award. This distinction wasn’t limited to the DoT realm; TECN’s innovative project even secured the top prize at the Ministry of Textiles and Jute (MoTJ), surpassing projects from all departments.
The success story continues, with TECN’s award-winning project now setting its sights on a national competition amongst all ministries under the Cabinet.
The report concludes with a celebratory message congratulating TECN’s students, faculty, and staff. The tireless efforts of the APA team are acknowledged for their instrumental role in ensuring the timely completion of tasks. Special gratitude is expressed towards the MoTJ secretary, Director General, Directors (Admin and Education), and all DoT officials for recognizing TEC’s exceptional performance across various categories.
By harnessing the power of innovation and sustainability, Bangladeshi startups are reshaping the textile industry landscape and setting a new standard for global competitiveness
The pursuit of sustainability reflects a significant paradigm shift in Bangladesh’s RMG sector. Photo: TBS
At present, there is a surge of innovation and modernisation in Bangladesh’s textile industry, led by the country’s start-ups, with the aim of driving sustainability and economic efficiency in the sector. With the goal of retaining more financial resources domestically, these start-ups are trying to address the industry’s overreliance on foreign technology and supplies.
Build Bangladesh and the H&M Foundation jointly organise the Needle Innovation Challenge (NIC), which has developed into a breeding ground for new ideas and has given rise to companies such as Plastile, foamTEX, ThreadBridge, Thrift Store, Rentify, Sui-Chorki, FemmeStitch, and Pina-TEX Wear.
Plastile aims to create useful RMG accessories out of plastic trash, possibly creating a new market for recycled materials. Pina-TEX Wear is working to lower Bangladesh’s high import costs for cotton and cotton-based textiles by creating an affordable method of removing fibre from pineapple leaves as an alternative to imported cotton.
A new company called Green Dye seeks to replace synthetic and chemical-based dyes by using microorganisms to produce an organic cloth colour. Bangladesh now imports more than 178 million USD of synthetic dye annually, while organic or natural dye would be more cost-effective.
By upcycling textile waste, another firm called DenimRevive hopes to support the fashion industry’s commitment to sustainability and waste reduction. The creative business concept of DenimRevive centres on repurposing locally produced denim trash to create a range of upcycled goods, including clothes, accessories, and handicrafts. They promote sustainable fashion, which has a global market potential of 6.89 billion USD.
Ackermans, a different startup, aims to transform our perception of clothing accessories. The use of sugarcane bagasse to make biodegradable buttons and tags for the RMG industry is the fundamental invention of Ackermans.
An ed-tech company called Shimmy Technologies is training RMG employees for an automated future. By using gamification to teach and upskill manufacturing workers, they make sure that the labour force can continue to support jobs in the era of automation. They put special emphasis on upskilling female employees, who are frequently left behind in the transition to more technologically sophisticated industrial techniques.
Some of these companies convert plastic waste into useful accessories for RMG or ready-made garments. At the same time, others are using microbes to produce organic dyes that come along with self-healing and biodegradable packaging.
Others have gone as far as reimagining the tailor experience with a Common Facility Centre for women from far-flung areas and calling on sustainable fashion through clothing rental platforms and thrift store ideas.
As environmental issues become increasingly pressing and sustainability becomes a buzzword all over the world, the Bangladeshi garment industry faces a defining moment when it is required to choose between sustainable principles and rapid growth.
The pursuit of sustainability reflects a significant paradigm shift in Bangladesh’s RMG sector. Leading the change are projects such as the Partnership for Cleaner Textile and the Circular Economy in Bangladesh’s Apparel Industry project.
For example, PaCT alone guided more than 200 factories on a sustainable path, helping them save enormous sums in water, energy, and chemicals while ensuring the industry’s products are environmentally friendly.
Located half a world away from Europe, Bangladesh is nevertheless its third-largest supplier of clothes and textiles. Hence, becoming more sustainable not only solves powerful environmental issues but also allows European firms to work with countries conforming to the EU’s standards.
The Challenge of imports and financial leakage
Bangladesh’s reliance on imports makes it helpless against variances in worldwide costs. Any expansion in the cost of unrefined substances, like cotton or engineered strands, can fundamentally affect creation costs and dissolve net revenues for makers. Bangladesh’s importing items include cotton, synthetic fibres, and dyes, the bulk of which are sourced from countries like China and India.
In importing materials, Bangladesh faces economic vulnerabilities, supply chain risks, and strategic mitigations. Bringing in tremendous amounts of unrefined components like cotton, manufactured strands, and colours requires significant amounts of USD. This reliance can drain trade savings, particularly during worldwide market volatility, influencing the country’s capacity to import other fundamental merchandise.
Reliance on a couple of nations for basic sources makes Bangladesh vulnerable to international strains and exchange fluctuations. For example, any disturbance in exchange with China or India can prompt quick deficiencies and cost climbs. The financial implications of this reliance are staggering, with Bangladesh spending a little over $3 billion to import just cotton annually.
Additionally, Bangladesh also imports synthetic fibres and the dyes used to colour them, which also account for several hundred million more in annual import bills.
According to Index Mundi, Bangladesh’s need for massive cotton to support the RMG, means that it imports over 7 million bales of cotton at a great import cost. High cotton prices or a restriction on import-export regulations can change the cost structure and profitability of Bangladesh RMG producers overnight.
Balancing profit and environment
Against this background, the twin imperatives of economic dynamism and sustainability may be effective for the textile industry in Bangladesh. The adoption of concepts from the circular economy, much less import reliance, and moving towards sustainable manufacturing point to marked change towards the future, which will be more self-reliant and sensitive to the environment.
Creative startups have a critical role to play in promoting this change. They are breaking new ground in recycling, upcycling, and creating sustainable materials that reconcile environmental responsibility with commercial viability. By harnessing the power of innovation and sustainability, Bangladeshi startups are reshaping the textile industry landscape and setting a new standard for global competitiveness.
These programs not only help reduce the industry’s dependency on imports but also steer it towards efficiency and sustainability. Bangladesh’s RMG sector is now transforming into an exemplary example of how environmental management and economic prosperity can go hand in hand.
As Bangladesh continues to navigate the complexities of global trade and environmental sustainability, the role of these startups becomes increasingly crucial.
Reshad Rahman Bhuiyan is an entrepreneur and a student currently studying in North South University, majoring in HRM and Marketing.
Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and views of The Business Standard
Turkish-made apparel now costs approximately 40% more than similar products from Bangladesh, a gap that was only 15-20% a few years ago. This is creating opportunities for Bangladeshi exporters to attract consumer’s attention
The global apparel market is a battleground where countries compete for market share and economic benefits. The two major players in the global apparel market are Bangladesh and Turkey. They are competing with each other. While Bangladesh, the second-largest apparel exporter, is increasing its market share by offering competitive prices without compromising on quality, Turkey, the fourth-largest apparel exporter, is primarily focused on high-value products with higher prices. Both major players in the global apparel industry are navigating a complex and competitive landscape.
Bangladesh’s garment exports reached a record $47.38 billion in 2023, marking a qualitative shift towards non-cotton products, outerwear, activewear, and suits. This diversification underscores Bangladesh’s evolving capabilities and its commitment to meeting the changing demands of global markets.
Figure 1: Key facts of Bangladesh apparels.
One of the key factors contributing to Bangladesh’s competitiveness is its lower production costs. The cost-effectiveness of Bangladeshi garments, combined with improving product quality, has made the country an attractive sourcing destination for major global brands such as H&M, Zara, and Primark. Additionally, the adoption of advanced technologies and innovations in manufacturing processes has further enhanced Bangladesh’s position in the global market.
Turkish apparel industry focuses on producing a wide range of clothing items, including ready-to-wear clothing, knitwear, denim, outerwear, and accessories. Turkey is also a major hub for textile production, with many apparel manufacturers sourcing their fabrics locally.
According to a recent report, Turkey’s apparel industry has been under pressure due to recent economic policies and global market shifts. The Turkish government has implemented tariffs ranging from 30% to 100% on textile imports to protect local yarn and fabric manufacturers from cheaper foreign competition. This move, however, has increased production costs for Turkish apparel manufacturers, making their products significantly more expensive. As a result, Turkish-made apparel now costs approximately 40% more than similar products from Bangladesh, a gap that was only 15-20% a few years ago.
It’s good news for Bangladeshi exporters that this gap will help them to catch more new buyers. Most of the cases, consumers want to pay competitive price for the items they buy. When they will find same quality product with two different prices, they mostly choose the more affordable option. This is because consumers often seek the best value for their money, prioritizing cost savings while still getting the quality they desire.
To counter these challenges, Turkey is focusing on its green transformation and the development of its ready-to-wear fashion brands. These strategic initiatives aim to differentiate Turkish products in the market by emphasizing sustainability and brand recognition. By investing in eco-friendly production processes and marketing its fashion brands more aggressively, Turkey hopes to appeal to the growing segment of environmentally conscious consumers and maintain its market position despite higher prices.
Figure 2: Key facts of Turkish apparels.
While Bangladesh has benefited from its cost advantage, there is a strong argument for re-evaluating its pricing strategy. Keeping prices low has undoubtedly helped Bangladesh capture a larger market share, but it may also limit the industry’s profitability and ability to invest in further improvements. Instead of competing solely on price, Bangladesh should consider increasing its prices modestly. This approach would align with the perceived value of its high-quality products and provide additional revenue to invest in technology, worker welfare, and sustainability initiatives.
Also, to sustain its growth trajectory, Bangladesh must continue to innovate and add value to its products. Embracing fashion tech trends, such as virtual sampling, data analytics, and e-textiles, can differentiate Bangladeshi products in the global market. Additionally, enhancing production capabilities through the integration of IoT and connected technologies can improve efficiency and reduce waste, further strengthening Bangladesh’s competitive position.
In fine, the competition between Bangladesh and Turkey in the apparel export market underscores the importance of strategic pricing, market diversification, and value addition. Bangladesh’s ability to offer high-quality products at competitive prices gives it a significant edge, but a strategic price increase could enhance its market positioning and sustainability. Turkey, facing higher costs, must leverage its strengths in sustainability and brand development to stay competitive. Both countries must navigate these dynamics carefully to sustain growth and employment in their respective apparel industries.
Leather industries in Bangladesh are compelled to sell their products abroad at prices 30%-40% lower than their international value in the absence of compliance, speakers at a seminar said
Exporting leather and leather goods to large global brands requires certification from the Leather Working Group (LWG), an international organisation to oversee compliance in the leather industry.
“The global brands do not buy products from factories that are not environment-friendly or workers-friendly,” Arif Hossain, auditor of the LWG, told a seminar on “National High-Level Dialogue for Greening the Tannery and Leather Sector in Bangladesh” jointly organised by Solidar Suisse, Prokriti o Jibon Foundation, OSHE Foundation and the European Union in the capital.
While presenting a paper at the seminar held at the Bangabandhu International Convention Centre in the capital, he said there are about 350 LWG certified leather factories in India, whereas the number is less than 10 in Bangladesh.
“Savar Tannery Industrial Estate still lacks a proper waste management system. Solid waste is being dumped in open spaces,” he pointed out.
“The leather industry in Bangladesh should be made pollution-free and environment-friendly. This requires proper planning and investment,” he added.
He expected that the Bangladesh government is working on this issue, which may increase LWG certified factories here.
The European Union Ambassador to Bangladesh Charles Whiteley said, “The sector employs 10 lakh people, but its contribution to the economy is still relatively modest as 3.8% of the country’s exports come from the leather industry and it contributes around 0.6% to GDP.
He said Bangladesh’s share in the global leather and leather goods market is about 3%. The sector is likely to grow,and it is important that this happens in a sustainable way.
Addressing the seminar as the chief guest, Environment, Forest, and Climate Change Minister Saber Hossain Chowdhury said solid waste is dumped in the open air in Savar – a practice which is absent in the whole world.
“In fact, we all made mistakes. Even after all these years, the leather industry is polluting the Dhaleswari River. Now, we should not blame anyone. Everyone has to work together,” the minister said.
As the current central effluent treatment plant (CETP) remains incomplete at Savar, the minister called upon the private sector to set up a new CETP to address the pollution issues.
In FY23, Bangladesh earned $1,223.62 million from exporting leather and leather goods.
The government has set a target to earn $12-13 billion by 2030 from leather and leather products exports, Saber said.
“I want a safe factory free from vulgar language,” wrote RMG (readymade garment) worker Humaira Begum on an open opinion board titled “Amar Shwapno” (My Dream) at an event in Dhaka today (17 May).
Humaira is one of the hundreds of garment workers who gathered to share their dreams for the future of their industry at the event, titled “Garment Workers’ Tarokamela” (Star Festival), organised by NGOs Karmojibi Nari and the Safety and Rights Society (SRS).
The event, hosted at the Liberation War Museum in Agargaon, aimed to promote worker well-being and safe working conditions. Many workers shared their dreams for the future of the industry on the Amar Shwapno board.
Suravi, a garment worker from Tongi, wrote, “If women get freedom, all their dreams will come true.” Another worker wrote, “I want to live with dignity, not just as a labourer.”
Workers and their children also participated in various cultural activities, including Baul songs. A play aimed at raising awareness about the Employment Injury Scheme for garment workers was also performed.
Photo: Md Jahidul Islam/TBS
Women from 8 women’s cafes around Dhaka also participated in the event.
A women’s cafe is a safe space for female factory workers to learn about their rights, share experiences, and relax. It provides education, recreation, and support for women in the workplace.
Garment worker Bilkis Akhter said, “The women’s cafe is a dear place for us. Without it, we would not know that entertainment is our right.”
Another female garment worker said, “Women’s cafe helped me navigate family disputes. Life is now good with my husband and our children.”
The speakers at the event hoped that it will inspire and motivate workers in the garment industry, tannery industry, and other sectors.
Photo: Md Jahidul Islam/TBS
Jatiyo Sramik Jote President Saifuzzaman Badsha said, “Women’s cafes can help raise awareness and organise workers. Unionised workers always prevail.”
Labour leader Nahidul Islam Nayan said that women’s cafes offer joy, services, support, and a path to a better environment for workers. They empower women to fight for better workplaces and well-being.
According to Department of Labour Director General (Additional Secretary) Md Tarikul Alam, “The government will definitely try to implement the labour laws so that the working people can become smart.”
Deputy Director (Medical and Labour Welfare) Roksana Chowdhury said, “Everyone here is shining like a star. I invite the stars present here to take Bangladesh’s production forward.”
Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishments Deputy Inspector General (Safety) Mahfuzur Rahman Bhuiyan said that the government is creating a worker database and offering grants to those impacted by the Covid-19 pandemic.
Karmojibi Nari General Secretary Sharmin Kabir said that working women deserve supportive families and workplaces, with opportunities for recreation just like men.
The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association President SM Mannan (Kochi) today (15 My) emphasised the urgent need for simplifying customs-related procedures and removing hassles in services to facilitate smoother and faster services for the readymade garments (RMG) sector.
In a meeting with Mohammad Fyzur Rahman, commissioner of Custom House, Chattogram, he highlighted the adverse effects of customs-related challenges on export-import activities, leading to increased production costs and unnecessary delay in business procedures, especially amidst the current global economic slowdown and reduced consumer spending on clothing.
The meeting aimed to address the complexities and challenges surrounding customs-related services, including documentation problems and HS Code classifications, which have been affecting the RMG industry’s operations.
The BGMEA president stressed the importance of reducing lead times to enhance competitiveness in the global fashion market.
“The government support and cooperation in ensuring the sustainable growth of the RMG industry is very essential for Bangladesh’s RMG sector to remain competitive in the global market,” he said, adding that money laundering under the name of export is condemnable.
“Genuine exporters never indulge in such malpractices, and BGMEA does not morally support such actions. BGMEA believes that those who harm the country’s economy should be brought to justice,” he said.
At the same time, the BGMEA president called on the commissioner of Customs House Chattogram to bring exemplary punishment to those who obstruct exports, harass exporters, and damage the country’s economy, ensuring they are held accountable under the law.
At the meeting, the BGMEA delegation urged the customs authorities to promptly address these issues and streamline services for the RMG sector to alleviate operational bottlenecks and enhance efficiency.
In response, the customs commissioner acknowledged the significant contributions of the RMG industry to the socioeconomic development of Bangladesh.
He assured the BGMEA delegation of the Customs House’s cooperation to address their concerns and facilitate a conducive environment for the industry’s growth.
BGMEA First Vice President Syed Nazrul Islam, Senior Vice President Khandoker Rafiqul Islam, Vice President (Finance) Md Nasir Uddin, Vice President Abdullah Hil Rakib, Vice President Rakibul Alam Chowdhury, and Directors Shovon Islam, Haroon Ar Rashid, Mohammad Sohel Sadat, Md Ashikur Rahman (Tuhin), Shams Mahmud, Mohiuddin Rubel, Md Nurul Islam, Mohammed Musa, M Ahsanul Hoq, Gazi Md Shahid Ullah, former first vice presidents SM Abu Tayyab, Nasir Uddin Chowdhury, Moinuddin Ahmed Mintu, former Directors M Mahbub Chowdhury, Anjan Shekhar Das, Saifullah Mansur, and AM Shafiul Karim Khokon were present at the meeting.
President of C&F Association AKM Akther Hossain, owners of garment factories and high officials of Customs House Chattogram were also present at the meeting.
প্রয়োজনীয় সরঞ্জামের অভাব, আর্থিক সমস্যা ও নানা সংকটে বন্ধ হওয়ার পথে ফেনীর ফুলগাজী উপজেলার তাঁতশিল্পের খাদি প্রতিষ্ঠান ও গান্ধী আশ্রম ট্রাস্ট। একসময়ে এখানের হস্তচালিত তাঁত চরকার মাধ্যমে উৎপাদিত কাপড়ের খ্যাতি দেশব্যাপী ছড়িয়ে পড়লেও ধীরে ধীরে স্থবির হয়ে পড়েছে এই প্রাচীন প্রতিষ্ঠানের কার্যক্রম।
জানা গেছে, ব্রিটিশবিরোধী আন্দোলনের অংশ হিসেবে তৎকালীন সময়ে পাক-ভারত উপমহাদেশে হস্তচালিত কাঠের তৈরি চরকা দিয়ে শুরু হয় তাঁতশিল্পের। ১৯২১ সালে ভিনদেশে তৈরি কাপড় বর্জনের ডাক দিয়েছিলেন মহাত্মা গান্ধী। তারই অংশ হিসেবে ১৯২১ সালের ৩১ আগস্ট ফুলগাজী উপজেলার নতুন মুন্সীরহাট (তৎকালীন বীরচন্দ্র) বাজারের পাশে ১০৬ শতক জায়গায় গড়ে উঠেছিল খাদি প্রতিষ্ঠান ও গান্ধী আশ্রম ট্রাস্ট। যা উদ্বোধন করেছিলেন মহাত্মা গান্ধী নিজেই। পরে এই তাঁতশিল্পকে ঘিরেই ওই এলাকায় তাঁতিদের বসবাস শুরু হয়। তবে বর্তমানে অটো পাওয়ার মেশিনে কাপড় তৈরির প্রক্রিয়া শুরু হওয়ায় কাঁচামাল সুতা ও রং দেওয়ার প্রয়োজনীয় ব্যবস্থা না থাকায় বন্ধের পথে প্রাচীন এ তাঁত শিল্পটি।
সরেজমিনে গিয়ে দেখা যায়, তাঁত শিল্প প্রকল্পের আওতায় একটি চরকায় তিনজন নারী শ্রমিক এবং সঞ্চয় ও ঋণ প্রকল্পের আওতায় চারজন পুরুষ ও নারী কাজ করছেন। দৈনিক তৈরি পণ্যের ওপর মজুরি দেওয়া হয় শ্রমিকদের। এ ছাড়া দুপুরে খাবার বাবদ প্রত্যেকে ৫০ টাকা করে পান। অথচ ট্রাস্ট উদ্বোধনের প্রথম দিকে কথা ছিল ২০ জন নারী শ্রমিক ৮টি তাঁত ও ১২টি চরকায় কাজ করবে। পরবর্তীতে তা বৃদ্ধি পাওয়ার কথা থাকলেও বন্ধের পথে এ শিল্পটি।
ট্রাস্টের আঞ্চলিক ব্যবস্থাপক প্রফুল্ল চন্দ্র ভৌমিক বলেন, প্রাথমিক অবস্থায় ১২টি হস্তচালিত তাঁত যন্ত্রের মাধ্যমে কাপড় তৈরি হতো। এখানের তাঁতশিল্পকে ঘিরে গড়ে উঠেছিল বাজার। পরবর্তীতে এই বাজারের নামকরণ করা হয় নতুন মুন্সিরহাট বাজার। ১৯৪৮ সালে দ্বিতীয় বিশ্বযুদ্ধের সময় এই তাঁত শিল্পটি বন্ধ হয় যায়। তখন সচল হস্তচালিত তাঁত যন্ত্র নষ্ট হয়ে যায়। দেশভাগের পর নতুন করে নোয়াখালী গান্ধী আশ্রম ট্রাস্ট প্রধান কার্যালয় থেকে সহযোগিতা নিয়ে চালু করা হয় হস্তচালিত তাঁতশিল্পটি। সর্বশেষ ২০১৩ সালে ভারতের উপরাষ্ট্রদূত বাবু সন্দীপ চক্রবর্তী আনুষ্ঠানিক উদ্বোধনের মধ্য দিয়ে এখানে ৮টি তাঁত যন্ত্রের মাধ্যমে শিল্পটির কার্যক্রম শুরু করেন।
এদিকে কার্যক্রম সীমিত হওয়ায় উপজেলার অনেক গ্রামীণ নারী শ্রমিক বেকার হয়ে পড়েছেন। তাঁত প্রকল্পের বিভিন্ন কাঁচামাল সরবরাহ না থাকায় চরকাগুলো দীর্ঘদিন বন্ধ রয়েছে। এতে তাঁত কলের যন্ত্রপাতি বিকল হয়ে পড়েছে। বন্ধ রয়েছে নতুন করে শ্রমিক নিয়োগ কার্যক্রমও। বর্তমানে একটি চরকাতে কাজ চললেও সেখানে কয়েকটি গামছা ,রুমাল ব্যতীত অন্যকিছু তৈরি হয় না।
আশ্রমে কর্মরত শ্রমিক শাহেনা আক্তার ঢাকা পোস্টকে বলেন, এখানে মজুরি একদম কম। তারপরও নিরুপায় হয়ে পেটের দায়ে কাজ করছি। একটি গামছা তৈরি করে ৪০ টাকা, রুমাল তৈরি করে ১০ টাকা পাই। দিনে সর্বোচ্চ দুইটি গামছা তৈরি করতে পারি। এভাবে আর চলা যায় না।
ছকিনা আক্তার নামে আরেক শ্রমিক বলেন, আমরা মানবেতর জীবনযাপন করছি। কখনো কোনো সহযোগিতা পাই না। কেউ খোঁজ নিতেও আসেন না। সংশ্লিষ্ট কর্তৃপক্ষ যদি একটু নজর দেন তাহলে এখানে কাজ করে পরিবার নিয়ে আমরা কিছুটা স্বস্তিতে থাকতে পারব।
ট্রাস্টের আঞ্চলিক ব্যবস্থাপক প্রফুল্ল চন্দ্র ভৌমিক ঢাকা পোস্টকে বলেন, করোনাকালীন বন্ধ থাকায় শ্রমিকরা পেশা পরিবর্তন করেছে। এ ছাড়া কাজটি অনেক কষ্টকর হওয়ায় শ্রমিকরা বেশি সময় কাজ করতে পারেন না। খুব শীঘ্রই আশ্রমটিতে আধুনিকায়নের মাধ্যমে ঐতিহ্য ধরে রেখে বড় পরিসরে কার্যক্রম পরিচালনা করা হবে। চলতি মাসে নোয়াখালীতে ট্রাস্টি বোর্ডের একটি সভা হওয়ার কথা রয়েছে। সেখানে এই প্রতিষ্ঠানের বিষয়ে উল্লেখযোগ্য একটি সিদ্ধান্ত আসতে পারে।
এ ব্যাপারে নবনির্বাচিত ফুলগাজী উপজেলা পরিষদ চেয়ারম্যান হারুন মজুমদার ঢাকা পোস্টকে বলেন, প্রতিষ্ঠানটি দীর্ঘদিন ধরে নাজুক অবস্থায় পড়ে থাকলেও কোনো জনপ্রতিনিধি এগিয়ে আসেনি। শপথ গ্রহণের পরপরই স্থানীয় সংসদ সদস্য আলাউদ্দিন আহমেদ চৌধুরী নাসিমের সঙ্গে কথা বলে পুনরায় নতুন রূপে কার্যক্রম শুরু করতে কাজ করব। আশা করি, সংশ্লিষ্ট কর্তৃপক্ষের সহযোগিতায় আগামী ৫ থেকে ৬ মাসের মধ্যে এটি আলোর মুখ দেখবে।
একই প্রসঙ্গে ফুলগাজী উপজেলা নির্বাহী কর্মকর্তা (ইউএনও) তানিয়া ভূঁইয়া ঢাকা পোস্টকে বলেন, গান্ধী আশ্রম ট্রাস্টের বিষয়ে কেউ কখনো আমার কাছে আসেনি। কয়েকদিন আগেই এ প্রতিষ্ঠানের বিষয়ে অবগত হয়েছি। সংশ্লিষ্টদের সঙ্গে কথা বলে তাদের সর্বোচ্চ সহযোগিতা করব।
A new study by the Center for Policy Dialogue (CPD) revealed on Tuesday that readymade garment (RMG) exporters were paying six times higher than the official fees for obtaining permits and renewing licences.
The study also found that apparel exporters paid 644% higher than the official rate for boiler licences.
For bond licences, they paid 261% higher than the official rate, and as for fire licences, the cost stands at 114% higher than the official rate.
In some cases, the amount is a little bit lower. For example, 36% higher payment than the official for factory establishment licence, 16% higher for trade licence and 12% higher for export registration certificate and import registration certificate, said Khondaker Golam Moazzem, research director at the CPD, during a seminar.
The official rate, however, was not disclosed.
The Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FBCCI), CPD and GIZ Bangladesh jointly organized the event on the “Business related barriers and possible way out.”
Moazzem said the data was collected from various business enterprises.
Anecdotal information shows that costs for securing essential permits can range from Tk50,000-100,000 more than the official fees, he said in his keynote presentation.
Renewal of these licences, however, incurs additional expenses varying from Tk500 to several thousand, he added.
Businesses frequently encounter unofficial and unregulated fees, leading to financial strain and unpredictability in operational expenses, he also said.
“High levels of corruption can impact all business sectors, with 100% of large companies, 66.67% of medium-sized enterprises, and 61.9% of small and micro enterprises reporting it as a major issue.”
He also said about 58.6% of businesses report that bribes are common in awarding public contracts and licences.
The timeline for obtaining and renewing licences often exceeds the official period, leading to significant delays.
For example, a trade licence renewal, which officially takes no more than seven business days, often spans 10 to 15 days due to inefficiencies and additional fees, according to the CPD research director’s presentation.
Delays disrupt business operations, hinder expansion plans, and reduce investor confidence, he noted.
Due to complications, many businesses used to hire third-party agents to navigate bureaucratic hurdles and manage which also increased the cost of business, said Moazzem.
The economist also recommended making the process transparent with digitization, as it could be utilized to reduce such corruption and undocumented payments.
Ahsanul Islam Titu, state minister for Commerce, was the chief guest of the event and Lokman Hossain Mia, executive chairman of the Investment Development Authority (BIDA) attended as special guest.
FBCCI President Mahbubul Alam chaired the seminar.
The workers of Ethical Garment Limited staged a demonstration over unpaid wages, blocking the Narshingdi-Kashimpur road in Dhaka’s Ashulia today (16 May)
The protest turned violent as the agitated RMG workers vandalised three vehicles, including a car, motorcycle, and a microbus, said the factory Manager (Administration) Belal Hossain.
According to the workers, salaries for April were scheduled for payment on 10 May but were deferred to 15 May (yesterday) by factory authorities.
An Industrial Police official, speaking on condition of anonymity, confirmed that despite assurances of payment on 15 May, workers returned empty-handed yesterday, with a promise to clear the dues on 21 May.
“The workers’ salaries were originally scheduled to be paid yesterday. However, the authorities again rescheduled the payment for a later date. When the workers arrived at the factory this morning, they discovered it was closed. Subsequently, they began protesting and vandalising on the road. Later, the industrial police intervened and dispersed the workers from the area,” he told The Business Standard
The situation is now under control, he added.
Factory Manager Belal Hossain explained that due to the inability to pay wages before 21 May, the factory opted for a temporary closure to prevent further escalation.
“However, since the workers acted violently today, vandalising a factory microbus, a car and a motorcycle as well as in the factory, I am uncertain whether normal factory operations will resume tomorrow,” he added.
General Manager Pintu Adhikari acknowledged the outstanding April wages, assuring that this is the sole pending payment
He affirmed that the workers will be paid the arrears on 21 May.
Noting that the factory has been experiencing an order crisis for some time now, the official said, “The number of work orders in the factory has decreased by more than half compared to previous levels. Just a few days ago, we were expecting a payment, but it was eventually canceled, exacerbating the crisis.”
The government’s cash incentive against export receipts has soared over the years although many sectors could not make their mark in the global market, bringing in limited results for the government’s diversification initiative.
Currently, 43 sectors receive taxpayer-funded cash support, with the maximum rate standing at 15 percent and the minimum rate at 0.5 percent.
Of them, only the garment sector has consistently fared well, turning Bangladesh as the second-largest apparel supplier in the world. The sector accounts for about 85 percent of the country’s exports as well.
The government has spent thousands of crores of taka over the years to help exporters become competitive in international trade. The subsidy amount stood at Tk 8,689 crore in the last financial year of 2022-23, slightly down from Tk 8,784 crore from a year prior, Bangladesh Bank data showed.
However, the generous handout can’t be continued after 2026 since World Trade Organisation (WTO) rules don’t allow developing and developed countries to pay direct cash incentives to exporters. Bangladesh is set to become a developing country in November 2026.
The imminent graduation and persisting pressure on the coffer amid low tax collections prompted the government to cut the subsidy for almost all sectors in February with a view to bringing down the rates gradually and protecting exporters from any shock that may emanate in the event of a sudden withdrawal of the cash aid.
The highest cash incentive rate has been reduced to 15 percent from 20 percent for most sectors. Only four sectors – diversified jute products, vegetables, fruits and products in the agro-processing sector, potatoes, and halal meat and processed meat exporters — will qualify for the top rate.
Despite immense potential and direct cash assistance, sectors such as jute and jute goods, leather and leather goods, and agro-processing and frozen foods have not been able to emulate the feat achieved by the garment sector.
Even, results are mixed within the garment sector. For example, Bangladesh is still strong in cotton fibre garment items although the world has moved towards non-cotton items. Furthermore, apparel items produced from artificial materials fetch better prices than those made from the natural fibre.
Speaking to The Daily Star, Zahid Hussain, a former lead economist of the World Bank, said the way the cash incentive is now being given is not wise.
“The way should be reconsidered because many sectors could not produce positive outcomes though the money was spent.”
If Bangladesh, as a developing nation, provides direct cash incentives on export receipts, disputes regarding compliance will arise, he said.
Hussain said the diversification in the export sector did not take place except in the garment industry despite spending the money. Even corruption took place in the management of cash incentives.
“Therefore, if the incentive is retained for any sectors after the LDC graduation in different forms, the eligibility of sectors should be assessed.”
SM Mannan Kochi, president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, said they had already held meetings with finance ministry officials and called for the continuation of incentives after the LDC graduation since countries such as India and China pay such incentives under different names.
“Many countries are giving the incentive in the name of technology upgradation or skills development funds.”
According to the business leader, there are numerous small and medium enterprises and emerging sectors in Bangladesh that are not strong enough financially to cope up with the potential challenges in the post-LDC era.
“The cost of doing business is increasing because of the power tariff hike, so the government should continue the incentive even after the graduation.”
