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Urban Couture: The Rise and Influence of Street Fashion

Dewan Mashuq Uz Zaman

A fashion aesthetic that develops from the bottom up, as opposed to coming from established fashion corporations or designers, is referred to as street style. It is a representation of the unique and autonomous looks of individuals.

These individuals come from a variety of lives, financial backgrounds, and cultural backgrounds. The concept of street style is extremely significant in the world of fashion since it can capture the most recent fashion trends, subcultures, and cultural influences in near real time. Street fashion, on the other hand, is not only freely accessible but also constantly evolving, in contrast to haute couture, which is typically inherited from affluent designers.

The purpose of this graphic artwork is to depict the changes that have occurred in society, cultural movements, and individual identities. As part of its investigation into the evolution of street style, this article examines its beginnings, the influential people who were responsible for shaping it, the key events that occurred, and the long-lasting repercussions that it had on the larger fashion landscape.

It was the hip-hop and punk subcultures that were the driving force behind the development of street style as a distinct form of fashion expression at the beginning of the 20th century. As a result of the punk subculture, which was known for its defiant attitude and anti-establishment mindset, a one-of-a-kind street style arose in the 1970s. This style featured do-it-yourself fashion elements such as ripped garments, safety pins, and strange accessories.

The 1980s saw the beginning of the hip-hop culture, and it was around this time that streetwear came to symbolize urban identity and cultural pride. The fusion of art, music, and fashion that is characteristic of hip-hop cultures led to the widespread adoption of streetwear elements. People who made their own garments, altered existing items, and repurposed materials to create distinctive ensembles that were distinct from mainstream fashion were the ones that exemplified the do-it-yourself (DIY) part of early street style.

Because they exhibit their one-of-a-kind sense of style and serve as cultural tastemakers, street style idols, who include musicians, artists, and trendsetters, have had a significant effect on the development of street fashion. Street style enthusiasts have the opportunity to showcase their attire and engage in conversation with those who have similar interests on fashion blogs such as The Sartorialist and Street Peeper. Additionally, photographers such as Bill Cunningham and Scott Schuman have captured candid street style photographs. These forms of media help to democratize fashion by highlighting the variety and originality that can be found in groups that are dedicated to street style. Luxury fashion companies are forming partnerships with street style stars in order to capitalize on the connection between street style and high fashion brands. This trend is gaining widespread attention as street style continues to gain prominence. Streetwear motifs have been incorporated into the designs of high fashion designers, who have drawn inspiration from urban culture. On the other hand, urban culture has acted as a source of inspiration for such designers.

The creation and consumption of street style have seen a substantial transition in the digital era, with social media platforms having a big impact on the popularity of street style. Social media platforms such as Instagram, TikTok, and Pinterest are now being used by individuals who are passionate about street style as virtual catwalks. These platforms allow users to showcase their outfits, engage with other individuals who have similar interests, and achieve global recognition. One of the most prominent affects that social media has had on street style is the proliferation of fashion that is now more easily accessible. The traditional barriers to entry have been eliminated by the proliferation of online platforms, which have made it easy for anybody with a smartphone and an internet connection to participate in the discussion on fashion. Street style has been democratized by bloggers, micro-celebrities, and fashion influencers, who have become significant voices in the industry. They have done this by providing a variety of perspectives and challenging conventional ideals of beauty. At this point in time, street style has a significant impact on contemporary fashion trends. To get ideas for their collections, fashion designers and manufacturers keep a close watch on street style situations. They commonly include parts of daily apparel and urban culture in their designs. Customers who want to express themselves and feel more connected via their clothing choices are drawn to street style because of its genuineness and distinctiveness when it comes to fashion. Because of this, street style has evolved into a powerful force for innovation and transformation in the fashion industry, contributing to the establishment of trends that are characteristic of current style.

It is the distinctive qualities of a great number of sites that have an impact on the street style environment that exists all over the world. Some examples of street styles are Scandinavian Street style, which emphasizes utilitarianism and simplicity, and Japanese street style, which is known for its avant-garde aesthetics and rigorous attention to detail. The vibrant patterns and bold colours that are prevalent in street fashion in Africa are a direct result of the continent’s long and illustrious history as well as its great number of cultural traditions. On the other hand, Latin American street style exudes vitality and enthusiasm, and it typically incorporates elements of dance, music, and street art.

It is one of its essential characteristics that the present street style incorporates a wide variety of elements. In the world of street fashion, individuals of all backgrounds, genders, sizes, and identities are enthusiastically embraced, and their individuality is acknowledged. As social movements such as body positivity and gender fluidity gain support, the concept of inclusion has evolved as a basic value in the realm of street style. As a result of this, street style has developed into a powerful agent of social transformation, challenging conventional notions of beauty and fostering an environment that is more accepting of diversity and inclusiveness within the fashion industry.

Street fashion continues to be as significant as it has always been, pushing the boundaries of fashion and defying the rules that are prevalent in the fashion business. Because of its ability to place a high importance on individuality, diversity, and inclusiveness, it has solidified its position as a significant influence on contemporary fashion. It is anticipated that street style will continue to evolve in the years to come because of ongoing societal shifts and revolutionary technological advancements.

It seems likely that street style will continue to play a significant role in defining how we express ourselves via the clothes that we wear regardless of whether fashion becomes more accessible and democratic. To summarize, street style is much more than just a method to dress; it is a powerful means to express oneself and demonstrate one’s cultural identity. Street style is a growing trend in the United States. What gives it such enduring significance is the fact that it could motivate individuals to accept and admire their individuality and to celebrate their distinctiveness. It can transcend barriers and bring together people from different demographics via a shared passion for fashion and creativity.

Significance of Technology

Significance of Technology

The Apparel Digest Report Compilation

Artificial intelligence and automation are causing a revolution in the global garment sector by improving the efficiency of supply chains and the precision of manufacturing. The limits of manual processes are addressed by this transition toward technology-driven production, which promises to reduce environmental impact and increase responsiveness. The importance that artificial intelligence plays in inventory management and bespoke design is highlighted by success stories from Zara and H&M.

It is anticipated that the global clothing business would eventually reach a value of $2.25 trillion1 by the year 2025, making it one of the most lucrative sectors in the world. It is anticipated that the value of AI-led product manufacturing would reach $16.7 billion2 by the year 2026, making it one of the industries that is expanding at the quickest rate in the world. The genuine value, on the other hand, may be found at the border between these two different industries.

For garment manufacturers to fulfill the ever-increasing demands of modern customers while still retaining their profitability, it is of the utmost importance for them to improve the efficiency and precision of the supply chain and the procurement process. When seen in this light, artificial intelligence (AI) and automation provide novel approaches to resolving issues that have persisted for a long time and bringing about revolutionary change within the sector. And there is already a shift in the air. Artificial intelligence (AI) and automation have been working their magic into the very fabric of manufacturing over the course of the past several years, promising a future that will be astonishing in terms of both efficiency and precision.
There are inherent limits to manual techniques, which have been the basis of garment manufacture for a long time.

Tasks that are performed repeatedly can cause tiredness and mistakes, which can lead to quality that is inconsistent and missed deadlines. Bottlenecks in the supply chain frequently result in production delays, and procurement can be inefficient owing to a lack of knowledge and inaccurate forecasts. A garment industry that is failing to adapt to the needs of a dynamic market is a result of these issues, which translate to high prices, consumers who are disgruntled, and a garment industry.

This is where artificial intelligence and automation come into play, ready to assist in the creation of a new garment that is more efficient. Artificial intelligence, which can analyse massive quantities of data and learn from trends, helps to optimize the supply chain by anticipating demand, controlling inventories, and optimizing procurement procedures. By taking over the reins of repetitive jobs, automation, its robotic partner, can increase production speed and uniformity while also reducing the number of errors that occur.

Manufacturing produced on demand is becoming feasible because of technological improvements. The process of producing clothing on demand involves doing so whenever there is a need for them.

Because of this, firms can keep their production cycles more sustainable, reduce the prices of their inventories, and achieve higher efficiency in meeting the expectations of their customers. Recent technological advancements are finally making on-demand manufacturing processes more efficient and scalable, even though businesses have been experimenting with such approaches for a considerable amount of time.
Currently available robots are outfitted with sophisticated sensors that are managed by artificial intelligence algorithms. These sensors have the capability to automate a variety of operations, including cutting cloth, stitching, and assembling garments. The procedures are carried out with an extraordinary degree of precision and velocity, which results in a rise in both productivity and cost-effectiveness. It is possible to equip the same robots with computer vision to detect problems in the fabric and automatically reject bad materials. This will result in a reduction in the amount of material waste and an improvement in product quality.

In addition to the shop floor, artificial intelligence algorithms may also facilitate improved production planning. They could optimize production schedules to guarantee resources are allocated effectively and to minimize waste.

Going one step further, artificial intelligence makes it possible to source clothes in a more intelligent manner by analysing enormous datasets, which may include past purchase data, market trends, and supplier performance, to determine which suppliers are the most operationally efficient and cost-effective.

This method, which is driven by data, helps to reduce risks and ensures that sourcing is tailored to meet sustainability objectives. Artificial intelligence helps to close the gap between production and demand. An artificial intelligence system may provide recommendations for production plans that are in line with actual demand by analysing sales data and consumer preferences. This helps to reduce lead times and minimize overproduction. Data from previous sales as well as influences from the outside world enable it to estimate future demand with an impressive degree of precision. The ability to make exact purchases, avoid overstocking and understocking, and cut down on waste are all made possible by this.

Zara, a worldwide apparel retailer under Inditex Group of Spain, implements artificial intelligence (AI) in several of its business operations to enhance its efficiency, responsiveness, and contact with customers. Zara, in contrast to many of its competitors in the fashion industry, employs artificial intelligence across its supply chain and inventory management systems, rather than relying just on analytics of buyer behaviour. Machine learning, real-time analytics, and RFID tagging are some of the cutting-edge technologies that have been utilized by this company. Zara can optimize its shipping and inventory with the use of these technologies, which allow the company to cut down on waste and guarantee that popular goods are always accessible. To promote real-time optimization of inventory levels and logistics, Zara has implemented a sophisticated supply chain system known as “Just-In-Telligent.” Because of this, the firm has been able to reduce the amount of time it takes to provide new designs to only one week, which is much less than the industry norm of three to six months.

On the other hand, the H&M Group’s Creator Studio4, which is a one-of-a-kind print-on-demand product service, is the first use of artificial intelligence that the company has used as a tool for the development of customized clothes. Any individual can create a mock up and make items with the help of H&M Creator Studio. When the user enters words into the generative AI tool, the program generates a visual artwork that is unique to the user. Today, everyone can become a fashion designer and develop their own designs that are on par with those created by professionals in a matter of seconds.

When the design is finished, it may be purchased immediately, and it will be fulfilled using H&M’s intelligent logistics reads that are even more revolutionary are going to be used in the creation of garments in the future. Developing technologies such as 3D printing have the potential to make it possible to create individualized garments on demand. With the use of AI-driven design tools, individuals will be able to create clothing that are suited to their own preferences and body shapes. There will be a revolution in supply chain management brought about by blockchain technology, which will promote ethical and sustainable practices. Blockchain technology will provide transparency and traceability. Additionally, the proliferation of smart fabrics and wearable technology marks the beginning of a new age of fashion that is both personalized and environmentally friendly. This new era will be driven by data-driven insights and the preferences of consumers.

Despite the revolutionary potential, there are still obstacles to overcome. It is necessary to implement proactive tactics for upskilling personnel and cultivating a culture of continuous learning to address concerns around job displacement and workforce reskilling respectively. Furthermore, it is of the utmost importance to guarantee the confidentiality and safety of data in AI-driven operations, which necessitates the implementation of stringent cybersecurity measures and the adherence to legislative frameworks. Through the utilization of effective change management methods, stakeholder involvement, and organizational leadership, it is possible to overcome opposition to change and cultural hurdles to adoption. This is necessary to promote successful implementation.

Artificial intelligence and automation are not about unravelling the fabric of human work; rather, they are about weaving a future of partnership, in which human brilliance directs technology to create astonishing outcomes. Organisations can manage the difficulties of contemporary manufacturing and capitalise on growing chances for innovation and growth if they harness the power of innovative technologies and use them to their advantage.

By embracing these developments, a new age of garment production will be ushered in. This new era will be distinguished by unrivalled efficiency, astounding accuracy, and a sustainable and ethical approach to meeting the ever-evolving requirements of our globalized world. Now is the moment to thread the needle of innovation and begin stitching together a more promising future for the garment industry, one fabric at a time.

Multitude of the Fashion World

The Apparel Digest Report

COVID-19 hastened the process of digitalization, which ultimately resulted in the development of the Metaverse. Virtual fashion and gaming are becoming increasingly popular strategies for fashion companies to attract younger customers. Within the gaming industry, luxury businesses are offering digital fashion goods related to fashion. The use of avatars and virtual wardrobes will become widespread, necessitating the modification of business models employed by fashion enterprises. Over the course of the past several years, we have witnessed a level of digitalization that has never been seen before, with the COVID-19 outbreak serving as the major engine.

Economies and all industries were compelled to hunt for rapid and alternative solutions to change their businesses to comply with the restrictions imposed by the government as a result of this completely unforeseen event. The impacts of the pandemic have been one of the most significant challenges for the fashion industry, which was previously based on direct physical contact when it was first established.

The virus remained in the environment for a couple of weeks, which resulted in the shutdown of manufacturing facilities. Additionally, fast fashion and luxury labels were forced to terminate employees and postpone fashion presentations and other events linked to the infection. The retail sales experienced a severe decline as a direct consequence of these stringent limitations. As a result, the digital platform became the new life for consumers.

The decade that followed COVID accelerated the development of digital space and resulted in the creation of the Metaverse. In this real-time virtual environment, fashion enterprises have a plethora of options to communicate with younger consumers who are very coveted. This world also offers new opportunities for creative expression, community building, and commercial activity.

In this ever-changing environment, there are a plethora of chances for virtual fashion. These opportunities include gaming interfaces, digital photography, augmented reality films, and even non-fungible tokens (NFTs). This opens up an attractive opportunity for the sector to expand its customer base and increase its income generating capacity. It will be necessary for fashion designers and businesses to cultivate the capacity to weave together the real and the imagined to successfully move into the future.

The metaverse is not a new occurrence, as indicated by research that was carried out in the year 2020 by Pilar Gonzalez from the Politecnico di Milano educational institution. According to the paper, the concept of a virtual world was first conceived in the 1980s and 1990s, but it did not acquire significant traction for a considerable amount of time. In his novel Snow Crash, published in 1992, Neal Stephenson introduced the concept of the “metaverse” for the very first time. In this book, he described a three-dimensional virtual world that was inhabited by avatars of real people. As computing and graphics continued to progress during the 1980s and 1990s, it resulted in the creation of a number of different types of video games, including simulators, shooting games, fantasy role-playing games, and other digital virtual worlds. This creates the basis around which the metaverse of today is built.
There are further examples from the 2000s that may be used to describe social 3D places. Some examples in this category include video games such as Club Penguin and The Sims 2. Using a penguin avatar, users of Club Penguin were able to personalize their virtual “houses” or “igloos,” chat with their friends, and play online games for cash. Those who played The Sims had the ability to create avatars, houses, communities, and a parallel virtual existence for themselves.

The present fascination of luxury companies with video games may also be explained by the fact that ninety percent of members of Generation Z consider themselves to be gamers. Providing seamless, tailored, and immersive experiences through gaming, such as customized online and offline shopping expeditions, is one of the ways that these firms are aiming to connect with this demographic. These days, games are a well-liked method of marketing and reaching out to younger people. Not only do games provide fashion companies with the opportunity to create new and unique experiences, but they also allow them to form tighter ties with their customers.

The way video games are currently influencing the fashion business is something that cannot be completely ignored. Marc Jacobs, Burberry, Dior, and Guerlain are just a handful of the fashion giants that have previously joined the industry. Nearly all fashion brands have already entered the market. A few of these fashion houses are presently displaying their most recent collections within video games, while others are collaborating closely with the most prominent corporations in the industry to provide players the opportunity to dress their avatars in outfits that are from the most recent collections. There was a total of $3.1 million worth of digital trainers that were sold by the online shop RTFKT in just seven minutes in the year 2021. Total sales were 600 pairs.

According to the report presented by Gonzalez, the size of the global fashion market is currently estimated to be close to $3 trillion. Even though digital fashion is still a relatively new business area, it is rapidly gaining market share. This is since games such as Fortnite generate a significant portion of their annual income of $2.4 billion through the sale of Avatar skins. You should be interested in the metaverse because skins, which are individualized add-ons that allow you to modify the appearance of an avatar (think clothing, accessories, and so on), are one of the most promising opportunities for in-game revenue. Luxury and mass merchants should be interested in the metaverse.

Through the establishment of a concrete resale economy, the metaverse has provided users of all ages with the potential to produce revenue. Taking the digital Gucci bag on Roblox as an example, which was resold for more than $4,115 (which is more than the actual version) after the Gucci Garden experience, exemplifies the potentially endless possibilities for companies to generate revenue in the metaverse.

As time goes on, there will be an increasing number of avatars that are on the go. These are going to be three-dimensional depictions of humans, including their behaviours and attitudes. The use of avatars is expected to become as widespread as the use of profile images in the present day. People will have a virtual wardrobe of clothing that have been designed by a variety of designers to suit a wide range of activities and circumstances, according to the predictions of experts.

“Direct-to-Avatar (D2A) refers to an emerging business model to sell things directly to avatars—or digital identities—bypassing any supply chain management such as drop shipping and logistics of how to get a physical object to a consumer’s door,” says Ryan Gill, co-founder, and CEO of Crucible. “D2A” is an acronym for “direct-to-avatar.”1 D2A brands are made available in social or competitive virtual environments, such as games or open worlds, where users can project themselves as an avatar into the real world.

In the previous year, Ralph Lauren presented a digital clothing collection consisting of fifty pieces that could be purchased through social media. At the same time, American Eagle made the announcement that they will be launching a digital clothing collection for Bitmoji avatars. Gucci and The North Face have introduced a collection of Pokémon GO avatars that are a collaborative effort. In addition, Gucci has developed virtual trainers that can only be worn using augmented reality technology.

Therefore, the metaverse offers a variety of opportunities, and the approach that a firm takes to reap the benefits of it does not necessarily have to be the same for every business. The most successful approach will be determined by several elements, one of which is the size of the brand as well as its overall objective.

The strategy may go in a different direction based on the degree of immersion as well as the platform that is being utilized. Regardless of the approach, all fashion companies are required to begin the process of formulating strategies to adapt their business models to accommodate these new realities. Considering that younger people spend the bulk of their daily lives in digital and virtual environments, this is going to be an extremely important consideration for marketers that are intending to target them.

Empowering Sustainability: The Impact of Renewable Energy

The Apparel Digest Report Compilation

It is becoming increasingly common to use renewable energy because of its capacity to combat climate change. Renewable energy is energy that is derived from natural resources such as sunshine, wind, and water. The transition to renewable energy sources is being driven by the urgent need to reduce the negative consequences of climate change. One of the most significant indicators of this shift is the carbon footprint, which is a measurement of the total greenhouse gas emissions produced by an individual.

As a result of the trapping of heat in the atmosphere, carbon dioxide emissions, which are mostly caused by the burning of fossil fuels, contribute to climate change. Solar, wind, and hydroelectricity are examples of renewable energy sources that, when utilized, produce very little to no greenhouse gas emissions. This results in a significant reduction in our overall carbon footprint. The broad use of renewable energy technology is very necessary to achieve a future that is greener and more ecologically conscious.

The carbon footprint demonstrates how difficult it is to reduce the effects of global warming that are caused by the consumption of fossil fuels. Both global warming and the greenhouse effect are caused by this, and both phenomena have an impact on human health, biodiversity, agricultural production, and the availability of water. In the year 2020, the primary source of 34.2 billion metric tons of carbon dioxide was the combustion of fossil fuels for the purpose of generating energy. Through its work, the Global Carbon Project emphasizes the significance of acting to solve this enormous problem.

In contrast to finite fossil fuels such as coal, oil, and gas, sustainable energy sources are those that are constantly accessible and can replenish resources. Examples of sustainable energy sources include sun, wind, hydropower, geothermal, and biomass. These forms of renewable energy contribute to the reduction of greenhouse gas emissions, air pollution, and overall global warming, which in turn helps to combat climate change. The Three Gorges Dam in China, offshore wind farms in Denmark and Germany, and the Solar Energy Generating Systems in California are all examples of successful renewable energy projects. These projects utilize less land and have a lower impact on the environment than traditional energy sources. These initiatives provide evidence that renewable energy sources are both feasible and effective in meeting the need for energy and in achieving environmental policy objectives.

Since it produces less emissions than fossil fuels such as coal, oil, and natural gas, renewable energy is a vital alternative for significantly lowering carbon footprints. Rather of relying on finite fossil fuels, renewable energy sources such as hydropower, wind, and solar do the job. It is possible that renewable energy may eventually take the place of fossil fuels in several different economic sectors. Germany, for instance, has shown that it is possible to make the switch to renewable energy sources by making significant investments in wind and solar power, which today fulfill all their electrical requirements. Automobiles that run on gasoline and diesel, which are the biggest contributors to emissions of greenhouse gases, may be replaced by electric cars that are more environmentally friendly and fuelled by renewable energy sources. Moreover, Costa Rica has made significant strides in lowering its carbon footprint, as evidenced by the fact that it utilized power derived entirely from renewable sources for a total of three hundred days in 2017. Additionally, Iceland has made significant use of its geothermal resources, generating nearly 90 percent of its power and heat from environmentally friendly ways.

Some of the obstacles that stand in the way of the transition to renewable energy include the high initial cost of renewable technologies in compared to the infrastructure required for fossil fuels, modifications to the grid, and the many options for energy storage. In addition to being difficult to attain, grid stability and dependability are made much more challenging by the unpredictable nature of renewable energy sources.

Numerous initiatives are being put into place to address these issues. These actions include providing financing for research and development, linking regional grids, and creating technologies for smart grids. It is essential for the government to implement regulations and incentives to increase the utilization of renewable energy. Policies such as renewable portfolio requirements, feed-in tariffs, and tax benefits are examples of policies that stimulate investment in renewable energy systems. Countries like Germany and Denmark, who have emerged as worldwide leaders in wind energy because of their Energiewende initiatives, have benefited from strong government policies that have been favourable in aiding the energy transitions of their respective countries. To recapitulate, the shift to renewable energy is not without its difficulties; nonetheless, progress is being made because of initiatives such as the deployment of smart grids, technical breakthroughs, and legislation that facilitate the move.

There is a discussion in this page on the advantages and disadvantages of transitioning to renewable energy sources. Renewable energy sources are sustainable because they make use of resources that are replenished in a natural way, they produce less carbon dioxide, and they contribute to the reduction of both climate change and air pollution. Examples of projects that have been successful on a global scale, such as solar farms and hydropower facilities, illustrate the potential advantages that these technologies may offer. Some of the challenges that renewable energy faces include high initial prices, problems with grid connections, and the unpredictability of renewable energy.

Among the potential answers are the implementation of smart grids, the implementation of appropriate government limitations and incentives, and the ongoing discovery of new technologies. Renewable energy can reduce carbon footprints in a variety of domains, including transportation, heating, and power generation, as demonstrated by case studies from Germany, Costa Rica, and Iceland. To achieve a more sustainable future, it is necessary to issue a rallying cry to individuals, businesses, and governments to place greater emphasis on renewable resource utilization. Businesses can make investments in renewable technology, people may support the use of renewable energy by installing solar panels or driving electric cars, and governments are required to create legislation to encourage the use of renewable energy that is renewable.

কারুপণ্য’র শতরঞ্জি: নারীর ক্ষমতায়ন আর বৈশ্বিক সাফল্যের গল্প

শতরঞ্জি দিয়ে শুরু হলেও এখন কারুপণ্যের কারখানায় তৈরি হচ্ছে নানা রকমের হস্তশিল্প পণ্য।

১৯৯১ সালে ‘কারুপণ্য’ নামে যাত্রা শুরু করে রংপুরের ঐতিহ্যবাহী শতরঞ্জি তৈরির ছোট্ট একটি প্রতিষ্ঠান। দেশের গণ্ডি পেরিয়ে এক সময়ের ‘হারিয়ে যাওয়া’ শতরঞ্জি এখন ইউরোপ ও উত্তর আমেরিকার বিভিন্ন দেশে রপ্তানি হচ্ছে প্রতিষ্ঠানটির হাত ধরে।



এ শতরঞ্জি তৈরির কাঁচামাল হিসেবে ব্যবহার করা হয় প্রাকৃতিক ও নবায়নকৃত বিভিন্ন কাঁচামাল। এর মধ্যে রয়েছে স্পিনিং মিলের তুলার বর্জ্য থেকে তৈরি সুতা, গার্মেন্টস ফ্যাক্টরির ঝুট কাপড়, পাটের আঁশ, কাশ-খড়, হোগলাপাতা, ধানের খড়, কচুরিপানা, কলাগাছের বাকল, ভুট্টার খোসা, নারকেলের ছোবড়া ইত্যাদি।



বর্জ্য থেকে পণ্য প্রস্তুত করার ফলে দূষণের হাত থেকে রক্ষা পাচ্ছে পরিবেশ ও প্রকৃতি।

মাত্র ৫০ জন কর্মী নিয়ে যাত্রা শুরু হয়েছিল কারুপণ্যের। এখন এটি পরিণত হয়েছে বিশাল কারখানায়। রংপুর শহরের রবার্টসনগঞ্জে রয়েছে কারুপণ্যের মূল কারখানা।



এছাড়া রয়েছে ছোট–বড় আরও বেশ কয়েকটি কারখানা। এ দীর্ঘ পথ চলায় প্রতিষ্ঠানটি এখন প্রায় আট হাজার জনবলের বিশাল শক্তিতে পরিণত হয়েছে। আর এ কর্মীবাহিনীর ৯০ শতাংশই নারী।



শতরঞ্জি দিয়ে শুরু হলেও এখন কারুপণ্যের কারখানায় তৈরি হচ্ছে নানা রকমের হস্তশিল্প পণ্য।



লেখা ও ছবি: সৈয়দ জাকির হোসেন

RMG owners pledge Eid payments as workers protests for dues    

Apparel industry leaders and top officials from the industrial police are optimistic about clearing of the monthly payments and Eid bonuses for workers before the vacation though “over 100 factories have yet to pay their workers’ February salaries”, according to industry insiders.
 
Since the time for March salary payments has already begun, factory owners are required by labour law to pay their workers within the first seven working days.
 
Apparel industry leaders have said they are trying to pay their workers before the Eid vacation, especially considering that government holidays are scheduled to begin on 10 April.
 
However, in many readymade garment factories, festival leave will start from 7 April to avoid traffic congestion and chaos on the highways.
 
The Industrial Police recently released a report mentioning that 271 apparel and textile factories are likely to face difficulties in paying wages and bonuses to their employees before Eid-ul-Fitr.
 
Among them, 171 are member factories of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), 71 are members of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers Association (BKMEA), and 29 are members of the Bangladesh Textile Mill Association (BTMA).

“Despite all challenges, we are committed to paying our workers before the Eid vacation.”

Mohammad Nasir, vice president, BGMEA

Several factories in Savar, Ashulia, and Gazipur have faced workers’ protests, with demands for salary and Eid bonuses since last week.

Taslima Akhter, president of Bangladesh Garment Sramik Samhati, told TBS, “To our knowledge, some factories have already laid off workers who raised their voices demanding timely payment of their monthly wages.”
 
She added that some factories have announced holidays and provided a lump sum payment to their workers.
 
Furthermore, she said, such behaviour from factory owners before Eid vacations is unacceptable.
 
BGMEA Vice President Mohammad Nasir said that some factories are experiencing financial crises due to increases in wage and utility costs, while buyers are reducing product prices.
 
“Despite all challenges, we are committed to paying our workers before the Eid vacation,” he added.
 
Nasir said that the BGMEA is addressing this issue, especially focusing on factories at risk of facing worker unrest before Eid.
 
He further said that BGMEA officials are working across different groups to resolve these issues, including engaging with factory owners and their respective banks to find solutions.
 
BKMEA Executive President Mohammad Hatem said over 100 factories – belonging to both BGMEA and BKMEA — have failed to clear their workers’ February salaries. 

He further said the apparel industry required about Tk5,600 crore to pay their workers’ salaries alone. However, the government only released Tk2,000 crore as cash incentives.
 
He added that apparel exporters sought cash incentives totaling about Tk6,000 crore.
 
“If the government allocates the release of at least another Tk2,000 crore, the factory owners will be able to pay Eid bonuses and March salaries,” said Hatem.
 
He also said that otherwise bank loans could be an alternative to pay workers, but banks may not approve them as, in most cases, factory owners have significant liabilities.
 
RMG workers protest for Eid bonus, salary
 
Hundreds of workers of Odyssey Craft (Pvt) Ltd, a garment factory located in the Sombhag area of Dhamrai started demonstrations after they found the factory closed on 3 April without any prior notice, just before the scheduled date for Eid allowance payments.
 
There are more than 2,000 workers in the factory, according to protesters.
 
The protest continued yesterday morning, and the factory owner, along with the police and workers’ representatives, convened to discuss the situation. After the discussion, the owner pledged to pay the workers’ wages by 8 April.
 
According to industrial police sources, there are at least 100 factories in Savar, Ashulia, and Dhamrai that may not be able to pay any salary and bonuses to their workers. Among them, there are 50 factories employing more than 2,000 workers.
 
However, so far, there have been no significant incidents of labour unrest except for two isolated incidents in Savar, Ashulia, and Dhamrai areas, sources say.
 
Police Superintendent of Industrial Police-1 Sarwar Alam told TBS, “We are sincerely working on the issues. The problems of many factories have been resolved. I will not say that we can solve all the problems; maybe some problems will remain unresolved.”
 
“We have already held meetings with the owners, labour representatives, and labour leaders,” he added.
 
90% factories in Narayanganj yet to pay salary, bonus: Labour leaders
 
From December to March, there have been at least 15 incidents of worker unrest related to salary and allowances in Narayanganj. Many factories have a record of non-payment of wages for two to three months, according to labour leaders.
 
District Member Secretary of Bangladesh Samajtantrik Dal Abu Naeem Khan Biplab told TBS, “Lump sum bonuses have been given to fine knit workers in the Tagarpar area of Fatullah, Narayanganj. There is anger among the workers.”
 
Deputy Inspector General of Industrial Police Md Azad Mia said, “We are collecting information through the intelligence and police. Some factory authorities have not paid the workers’ salaries. We are working behind the scenes to pay the salaries before Eid by listing them.”

RMG workers protest over unpaid wages, clash with police in Narayanganj

Workers of ACS Textiles in Narayanganj’s Rupganj have staged a demonstration over unpaid wages, blocking the Dhaka-Sylhet highway for about 2 hours today (4 April).

When the police charged batons to control the situation, a clash broke out with the workers.

According to the workers, they have wage arrears from December last year to March this year. For the past few days, the management has been delaying the payment of the workers’ outstanding wages.

Their outstanding wages and bonuses were supposed to be paid before Eid. 

Photo: TBS

Photo: TBS

Although the deadline for payment of salary and bonus was 4 April, it was announced today that it would be paid after Eid. Enraged by the news, the workers took to the streets in protest, the agitated workers said.

Narayanganj District Industrial Police and Rupganj Police Station rushed to the spot and charged batons to remove the workers from the highway. In response, the workers retaliated by throwing brickbats at the police.

Rupganj Police Station Inspector (Investigation) Zubair Hossain said, “Twelve people were injured in the clash including Additional Superintendent of Police of Narayanganj Tariqul Islam.”

The situation is calm now, he said, adding that additional police have been deployed in front of the factory.

RMG exporters must focus more on man-made fibres to stay competitive: PwC

Bangladesh needs to focus on manufacturing man-made fibre apparel to maintain its global market position amid growing demand in the global market, as the country still lags behind other competitors in exporting ready-made garments (RMG), according to a new study conducted by the global accounting giant PricewaterhouseCoopers, or PwC.

The study also found that in 2022, half of the global RMG items were made from man-made fibres. The figure is projected to rise above 60% by 2030. However, Bangladesh’s RMG exports currently contain less than 30% man-made fibres.

The PwC study also mentioned that the major competitors of Bangladesh already have 44% to 62% man-made fibre products in their apparel export basket.

The study suggests that Bangladesh should expedite the making of garments from man-made fibre to maintain the global export demand.

The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) commissioned PwC to conduct the comprehensive study, titled “From Shirts to Shores: A Blue Print for Bangladesh RMG Industry”, as part of the roadmap for the post-Covid-19 period and the target of $100 billion apparel exports by 2030.

PwC shared the findings of the study, conducted in collaboration with the International Finance Corporation, at a press conference held at the BGMEA office in the capital on Thursday (4 April).

According to the study, global exports of ready-made garments in 2013 were worth about $794 billion, where the share of man-made fibre items was 46%.

In 2022, global apparel exports rose to $953 billion where the share of man-made fibre was 50%. It has been projected that in 2030, the total apparel exports will hit $1,121 billion where 60% will be of man-made fibre items.

Among the competitive countries, as of 2022 China, Vietnam, Turkey and Italy are ahead of Bangladesh in the export of man-made fibre RMG items where China’s share of its total RMG export is 62% followed by Vietnam’s 56%, Turkey’s 48% and Italy’s 44%. On the other hand, 27% of Bangladesh’s total RMG exports are man-made fibre products.

On the occasion, BGMEA President Faruque Hassan spoke for the last time at a formal BGMEA event as the president of the apex trade body. A new board will take responsibility on 6 April (Saturday).

He said it is true that several factories have been shut down due to various crises in the past years. However, since April 13, 2021, 393 new factories have been registered as new members of the BGMEA, he added.

“We have also advanced considerably in terms of manufacturing high-value products and value addition. Currently, investment in the backward linkage industry is very important, because after LDC graduation in 2029, there is no alternative to local fabric to get GSP plus benefits in Europe,” Faruque said.

He also said that he met the WTO DG in Geneva and top figures in Brussels and insisted on continuing the ongoing facility till 2032 after LDC graduation.

The BGMEA president also said that work is going on to reduce carbon emissions by increasing the use of renewable energy in order to make the apparel industry carbon neutral.

“H&M and BestSeller are going to invest in setting up a 500 MW wind energy project in Bangladesh and we are continuing efforts to increase such collaboration,” he added.

Faruque Hassan also said that the BGMEA is working to develop investment opportunities and business models in the recycling industry. It has some concrete proposals in this regard for the next budget and has conveyed it to the government.

“Hopefully, if these are properly reflected, we can add $5 billion to our exports in the next three years,” he added, emphasising the significance of research-driven strategies in sustaining competitiveness amidst evolving global dynamics.

PwC Managing Director Shalini Shrivastava, Director Arindam Saha and Associate Director Shivam Kaushal, and BGMEA Vice President Abdullah Hil Rakib and directors Shovon Islam and Nusrat Bari Asha were present, among others.

Is open costing a good idea for the RMG industry?

Open costing is sharing detailed information about the cost breakdown of each garment with suppliers, in which a supplier compiles an itemised list of costs, rather than a fixed price. Recently, the concept is getting some buzz in the industry. 

On March 4, 2024, Chairman of AJI & AB Group M A Jalil Ananta proposed an idea for the RMG manufacturers during his speech at the panel inauguration for the biennial polls of the BGMEA — adopting open costing for all ready-made garments (RMG) products. 

He proposed that the costs of all items in the RMG industry would be put under categories and posted on the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) website for buyers. It will accompany a price floor. Any RMG manufacturer selling any goods at a cheaper rate will be penalised by the BGMEA.  

While his intention to improve transparency and ensure a fair price for the manufacturers is commendable, the system’s impact on buyers’ profits and the industry’s competitiveness need careful consideration. In a diverse RMG industry such as ours, open costing may not be easy to implement.

The pros of open costing

In our country, RMG factory owners have often faced accusations of labour exploitation in their efforts to keep production costs low. Meanwhile, buyers also put pressure on the manufacturers to take orders at very low prices. Open costing, in theory, can put an end to this. 

“The buyers come to us and say – your price is very high, the other companies’ prices are so low. If you can’t take orders at low prices, there are other places who can. Thus, they exploit us and make us take orders virtually free of cost,” Ananta said during his speech. 

Open costing could establish a baseline price floor that prevents manufacturers from undercutting each other and sacrificing profit margins. This could create a fairer pricing environment where manufacturers are compensated for the true cost of production, allowing them to invest in better materials, labour practices, and compliance. 

If open costing leads to higher profits for buyers, there’s a chance they might reinvest some of those profits back into the supply chain. This could involve funding initiatives for better wages, skill development programs for workers, or improved working conditions in factories. 

Open costing can also increase transparency at a time when the apparel sector faces increasing demands to be more transparent about their supply chains as it involves offering suppliers comprehensive information about the cost breakdown of each item of clothing. 

Open costing can also eliminate the current system, where buyers might suspect unethical practices behind unrealistically low production costs, or when higher prices confuse them.

Photo: TBS

Photo: TBS

It is not a completely new concept in our RMG industry. At some places, it is already used at the request of certain buyers. 

Faisal Samad, Senior Board member of BGMEA and Managing Director Savartex group, told the Business Standard, “at this moment, we are implementing open costing for some buyers. It is being done to protect their interests. It is part of their negotiation process to get the best deal from us.” 

Open costing is not practical

Shams Mahmud, the president of the Bangladesh Thai Chamber of Commerce and Industry and Managing Director Shasha Denims Ltd has pointed to the impracticalities of the proposal. 

“The cost of raw materials is just one component of the pricing,” he said, “there are many other components that determine our pricing. Twenty years ago, when we used to just sew and knit, open costing might have worked then. But our industry has evolved to become more advanced, more complex; now implementing open costing is not practical at all.” 

Open costing wouldn’t account for fluctuations in raw material prices (cotton, yarn), which can significantly impact production costs. This could leave RMG manufacturers vulnerable if they are unable to adjust their prices accordingly. E

Faisal Samad is also of the opinion that it would be hard to implement. 
“Our RMG industry is a free competition. You can not force someone to set their prices unless there are some regulations and implementation. The manufacturers set their prices up based on their liabilities, their income potential, their expected income potential etc. So, it varies from one manufacturer to another.” 

Exchange rate fluctuations can affect the overall cost of production in Bangladesh. Open costing wouldn’t account for these fluctuations, potentially leading to situations where manufacturers are unable to fulfil orders profitably.

Photo: TBS

Photo: TBS

So, with a readily available cost breakdown, RMG manufacturers might have less motivation to innovate and find ways to become more efficient; as research and development (R&D) is costly. This could lead to stagnation in production methods and a lack of investment in automation or technology. 

Shams Mahmud highlighted, “In our factories, we invest a significant amount of our profit into R&D. The profit that gets spent into R&D has to be recouped, right? If open costing is implemented, nobody would want to invest in R&D.” 

At the same time, manufacturers might prioritise meeting the pre-defined cost categories rather than focusing on differentiating their products through unique designs, materials, or value-added services. This could make them less competitive against manufacturers who offer a wider range of options, reducing our competitive edge in the global market against the new contenders. 

Open costing only reveals direct costs

Open costing might only reveal direct costs (materials, labour) but not fully transparent overhead costs (factory rent, utilities). This could give buyers a false impression about the cost of production.

Mahmud explained the indirect costs of the business, “We send our technicians and compliance experts abroad to learn more. It costs us significantly. We do this to ensure better productivity. If the employees are better trained, the output increases.”

“Also, costs vary from factory to factory. For example, if a factory is outside of the EPZ, the water bill rate is Tk 2 per cubic metre; and for a factory inside the EPZ, it is Tk 42 per cubic metre. See how indirect costs vary? So how would open costing even work here?” he added. 

May reduce the leverage of the manufacturers 
With all costs exposed, buyers would hold all the cards in negotiations. Manufacturers lose their leverage in price setting negotiation. Thus, it will frustrate the very reason Ananta wants open costing in the first place. 

Also, knowing the cost structure, some manufacturers might manipulate specific cost components (like labour or materials) to meet the price floor, without actually improving efficiency. This could create a race to the bottom in terms of quality or ethical practices.

Setting up a price floor is a good idea

Open costing may not be fully practical, but setting a price floor is a good idea for our RMG industry to promote labour rights and fair wages. As a hub for RMG, we have spent years stuck in a downward spiral of unit prices. People frequently draw a comparison between the final cost of garments and the wages paid by garment manufacturers. 

There is also the argument that Bangladesh has a large number of suppliers competing for many buyers, forcing prices lower, as buyers take advantage of the conditions created by the market. So, setting up a price floor will allow us to make healthy profit and escape buyers’ exploitation. 

A price floor could prevent producers from undercutting each other and sacrificing profit margins. This could allow them to invest in better quality materials, improve working conditions, and potentially become more competitive in the long run.

Samad has been a proponent of price flooring for years now. He said, “We have talked about establishing floor pricing at the BGMEA before. In order to ensure healthy competition, promote a good business environment, and ensure that buyers are not taking advantage of us, price flooring will be quite helpful.” 

“And it will be good for both sides as well. If a manufacturer is selling products at very low prices, he is cutting corners and not delivering the best product. And also, if a buyer wants to buy products at very low prices, we can show them our price floor and protect our interests. So, rather than open costing, price flooring is a good strategy for us at this moment.” 


Shadique Mahbub Islam. Sketch: TBS

Shadique Mahbub Islam. Sketch: TBS

Bangladesh’s Garment Industry Seeks Duty-Free Textile Waste Imports

The Apparel Digest Report

In the economies of a great number of countries, particularly those that are rising nations, the Ready-Made Garment (RMG) industry plays an extremely important role. Nevertheless, the business is confronted with a significant challenge regarding the management of waste apparel. Most recently, RMG manufacturers have been advocating for the duty-free importation of garment waste, which is a move that has the potential to have huge repercussions not just for the environment but also for the company.

During the manufacturing process, the fabric that is left over after the garments have been cut is referred to as “cutting waste,” which is another name for garment waste. In most cases, this waste is discarded, which contributes to the growing problem of textile waste. On the other hand, RMG manufacturers argue that this waste may be put to productive use by providing an industry-valued resource.

As a result of the fact that it is one of the most polluting industries in the world, the fashion industry is coming under increasing pressure to become more sustainable. Additionally, the demand from customers for environmentally responsible practices is growing. Reusing trash from the garment business can help reduce the industry’s negative impact on the environment and boost the sector’s sustainability.

Nevertheless, there are already fees and levies involved with the importation of discarded clothes, which makes it less lucrative for manufacturers to do so. Because this additional expenditure is typically passed on to buyers, sustainable clothing becomes more expensive and less accessible. This is because it is more expensive.

Bangladesh’s garment and textile industry has stated a desire to import textile and garment waste, including clippings, duty-free to boost the number of recycled fibres that are produced. The makers of clothing are advocating for the elimination of two taxes: a value-added tax (VAT) of 7.5% on the procurement of raw materials to produce recycled fibre, and an extra VAT of 15% on the purchase of these fibres by spinning mills.

In addition, the corporations have requested that the Harmonized System (HS), which is a numerical system that is recognized on a global scale and is utilized by customs authorities all over the globe to classify the items that are trafficked, be put into effect. In addition to enhancing the nation’s competitiveness in the global market, the purpose of these concepts is to ensure that the expansion of garment exports is maintained. Additionally, the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) and the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) are providing their assistance to the recycling effort.

By importing goods duty-free, the RMG business is trying to enhance the creation of textile waste, which will be beneficial to the economy and will promote both sustainability and sustainability. From both an economic and an environmental point of view, this move is beneficial. Nevertheless, it is of the utmost importance to prevent the misuse of these capabilities. The country’s sustained expansion in textile exports will be supported by this approach, which will also boost the country’s competitiveness in international markets. The quest of sustainability within the industry has made great progress because of this idea; nevertheless, it also draws attention to the complexities and challenges that are involved in getting there.

RMG BANGLADESH NEWS