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Study: 30% gender pay gap in Bangladesh RMG factories

Bangladesh’s readymade garment (RMG) factories have a gender pay gap of up to 30% in favour of men for base wages, according to a study report.

The factories have the largest gender pay gaps of 22% to 30% for base wages, while at the garment factories in Turkey, the gaps are smaller but variable, at between 4% and 17%, said the report titled “Gender pay gaps in global supply chains: findings from workplaces in Bangladesh, Colombia, Morocco, Thailand and Turkey.”

Conducted by United States-based research organization Anker Research Institute, the study found that the gender pay gaps for gross cash wages, including overtime pay and cash allowances and bonuses, ranged from -5.5% to 25.9%.

The report said that in garment factories in Turkey and Bangladesh and at the farms in Morocco, women frequently earn less than men doing the same type of work.

The study identified that in Bangladesh RMG sector men might be able to earn more than women doing the same work by negotiating a higher base wage or by switching factories for higher pay, especially when there were shortages of skilled labour.

According to the report, at many workplaces, men are disproportionately likely to have contracts and/or forms of pay that are associated with higher wages, such as monthly rate pay and piece rate pay in Bangladesh.

The report revealed that in garment factories in Bangladesh and Thailand, women tend to work slightly more days per month than men, but in Turkey and Colombia, men tend to work slightly more days per month than women.

The report presented the findings of studies in five countries to test the Anker Research Institute’s new methodology for measuring the size and determinants of gender pay gaps at workplaces in global supply chains.

These studies involved analysis of payroll data for over 15,000 women and men working at 12 factories, farms, and packhouses in the garment and agro-food sectors, as well as over 350 interviews with workers, managers and  stakeholder organizations.

Results from the 12 study workplaces in five countries and in three economic sectors of garments, bananas and fresh produce indicated considerable diversity in the size and causes of gender pay gaps.

The ARI conducted its study in three garment factories in Bangladesh with between 1,500 and 4,000 workers per factory.

The study recommended that the employers should monitor wages for women and men across the entire workforce and make a commitment to reducing and eventually eliminating gender pay gaps, where they exist.

The study also urged industry associations, trade unions, governments and brands to undertake comprehensive and gender-neutral evaluations of all occupations in the garment sector and agri-food sectors to ensure equal pay for work of equal value.

BB: Slight increase of RMG net exports in second quarter of FY24

The net exports of Bangladesh’s ready-made garment (RMG) goods experienced a slight increase in the second quarter (October-December) of the current fiscal year 2023-24 from the previous quarters.

According to “Quarterly Review on RMG: October-December of FY24” published by the Bangladesh Bank, the import value of raw materials – raw cotton, synthetic/viscose fibre, synthetic/mixed yarn, cotton yarn, and textile fabrics and accessories for garments was $3,373.29 million in October-December of FY24, accounting for 28.65% of total RMG export earnings ($11,773.84 million).

As a result, net exports from this sector were $8,400.56 million in the second quarter of FY24, meaning the net exports of the RMG were 71.35% in the October-December quarter. 

In the preceding quarter of FY24 (July-September), the net exports were 70.78%, meaning the net exports have increased by only 0.57 percentage points in three months.

The net exports experienced only a 2.16% increase over the previous quarter ($8,223.04 million in July-September of FY24) but a negative growth of 2.45% than $8,611.93 million in the same quarter of the previous financial year (FY23).

The central bank data also showed that the total export earnings from RMG stood at $11,773.84 million in October-December FY24 (Woven $5056.25 million and Knitwear $6,717.60 million), which was only 1.35% higher than the previous quarter but 7.46% lower than the same quarter of last fiscal. 

The RMG sector has been facing numerous challenges such as the Russia-Ukraine conflict, Taka-Dollar depreciation, weak global demand for RMG, and global high inflationary pressure etc., all of which resulted in a slight edge down of exports in this quarter, the central bank said.

The main destinations of Bangladesh’s RMG exports are the United States, Germany, the United Kingdom, France, Spain, Italy, the Netherlands, Canada, and Belgium. 

During October-December of FY24, the RMG export earnings from these nine countries stood at $7,954.77 million, which was nearly 68% of total RMG exports. 

Moreover, during the second quarter of FY24, Bangladesh bagged export earnings worth $8,582.79 million from these nine countries, of which 92.68% ($7,954.77 million) was earned from the RMG exports.

During the quarter under report, RMG export earnings from these nine countries relatively declined by 1.87% compared to the previous quarter and 11.81% to the corresponding quarter of the last financial year.

The report warned that as the global economy is facing major challenges including subdued economic activities owing to higher inflation and higher interest rates, heightened uncertainties regarding the future geoeconomic landscape, weak productivity growth and a complex financial environment, export receipts from the RMG sector may also face some challenges in the upcoming months of the current fiscal year.

Some initiatives have been taken by the government and Bangladesh Bank, particularly the pre-shipment credit, incentives for export expansion, Export Facilitation Fund, Export Development Fund (EDF), and Green Transformation Fund (GTF).

The central bank stated that inter-apparel diversification, reducing lead time and increasing efficiency, ensuring effective research and development, exploring new global markets, skilled RMG workforce and modernization of production process should be priority areas to escalate the RMG export earnings in the future. 

In the last fiscal year (2022-23), Bangladesh exported apparel worth $46.99 billion to its global destinations.

RMG workers will get salary, bonus before Eid: state minister

Readymade garment (RMG) workers will get their salary and festival bonus before the Eid-ul-Fitr holidays, State Minister for Labour and Employment Nazrul Islam Chowdhury said yesterday.

He made the announcement while talking to reporters after attending the 17th meeting of the tripartite advisory council on the RMG sector at the Secretariat.

The state minister further said no workers can be laid off before Eid. “It is a strict directive from the government for the owners. Owners, employees, and the government have discussed various issues together [in the meeting],” he added.

He said there is no sense of dissatisfaction among the workers ahead of Eid-ul-Fitr.

“Both owners and workers are working together to solve their problems in a friendly environment. Many problems have already been solved,” the state minister said.

He also said rations will be given to the garment workers.

RMG workers to receive salary, bonus before Eid holiday: State minister

Readymade garments (RMG) workers will get their salary for the month of March and Eid bonus before the Eid-ul-Fitr holidays begin, State Minister for the Labour and Employment Ministry Nazrul Islam Chowdhury said today (20 March).

Besides, the industrial police, the labour department, the Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishment, and intelligence agencies will work together to ensure there is no disorder in this country’s largest export sector before Eid, he told reporters after attending the 17th meeting of the tripartite advisory council on RMG sector at the Secretariat.

Eid-ul-Fitr, the biggest religious festival of Muslims, is expected to be celebrated on 10 or 11 April, depending on the sighting of the moon.

“There is no fear of any kind of worker dissatisfaction with Eid-ul-Fitr ahead. Because both owners and workers are working together to solve their problems in a friendly environment. Many problems have already been solved. And the problems that have not been solved, the government will take initiative to solve them,” State Minister Nazrul said without providing any details as to what the problems are.

Replying to a query on when the salary and Eid bonus of RMG workers will be paid, he said, “The salary and bonus will be paid to the workers before the Eid holiday. But no specific date has been set.” 

“We do not know when the owner of a factory will be able to pay and when they won’t be. We have instructed that the salary and bonus must be paid before the Eid holiday,” Nazrul noted.

The state minister further said no worker can be laid off before Eid.

“It is a strict directive from the government for the owners,” he stated.

Nazrul said the representatives of the workers and the owners have demanded that the garment workers be given rations. 

The Ministry of Labour is supportive of this initiative and believes it can be implemented. The proposal awaits the prime minister’s approval, and a decision on the ration system is expected soon.

BGMEA chief urges German company to increase high-value garment sourcing from Bangladesh

Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Faruque Hassan urged Otto Group, a renowned German retail company, to further explore business opportunities with suppliers in Bangladesh.

During a meeting with a delegation of Otto Group today (20 March), the BGMEA chief emphasised the country’s potential as a reliable and competitive sourcing destination for diversified high-end garment products.

The delegation included Sergio Bucher Rodriguez, Member of Executive Board- Retail & Brands at Otto Group; Heidi Sabina Stevens, Chief Executive Officer, Otto International Hong Kong; Weronika Sosulska, Key Account Manager, Team Bon Prix; Raksha Nanerjee, Key Account Manager, Team Witt & Merchindising Otto Lascana; and Mehtap Mir, Head of HR & Workplace Solutions.

Newly elected Director of BGMEA for 2024-2026 term Mesbah Uddin Khan and Chair of BGMEA Standing Committee on Trade Fair Mohammad Kamal Uddin were also present at the meeting.

They had discussions covering various aspects of the garment sector in Bangladesh, including its current status, vision and prospects.

Another key issue of the meeting was the exploration of avenues to increase Otto Group’s sourcing from Bangladesh, especially high-value garment products.

Faruque Hassan emphasised the need for strengthening partnerships with Otto’s Bangladeshi suppliers to facilitate the design and manufacture of high-end apparel items.

During the discussions, Faruque Hassan provided insights into Bangladesh’s garment industry, highlighting its advancements in workplace safety, environmental sustainability, circularity, and workers’ welfare.

He highlighted the industry’s ongoing initiatives and efforts to diversity product offerings, with a particular focus on non-cotton and high-end product segments, as well as innovation in product development and process optimisation.

State Minister: RMG workers will get salary, bonus before Eid

State Minister for Labour and Employment Md Nazrul Islam Chowdhury on Tuesday said a decision has been taken to provide the salary for March and festival bonuses to readymade garment (RMG) workers before the holiday of the holy Eid-ul-Fitr.

The decision was taken in a meeting of the tripartite consultative council of the ready-made garment sector at the ministry’s conference room with the state minister in the chair.

Vacations for factories will also be announced in line with the government holidays marking the Eid-ul-Fitr.

Labour and Employment Secretary Md Mahbub Hossain, Director General (DG) of Department of Labour Md Tarikul Alam, BGMEA Standing Committee on ILO and Labour Affairs Chairman ANM Saifuddin, BKMEA Vice-President Fazlee Shamim Ehsan and Jatiya Sramik League Executive President Md Alauddin Mia joined the meeting.

Replying to a question, the state minister said factories cannot sack or lay off any worker before Eid. Strict directives have been given to this end, he said.

Nazrul Islam said a rationing system will be introduced for garment workers.

RMG value addition sees uptick in Oct-Dec

The local value addition in the country’s ready-made garment sector witnessed a 3.66 percentage point increase in the second quarter (October-December) of the current fiscal year compared to the corresponding quarter of the previous fiscal year.

However, the sector’s export earnings decreased by 7.46% in the said period, as well as the cost of raw material imports by 17.93%, according to a quarterly review report by the Bangladesh Bank.

The report revealed that the import value of raw materials — raw cotton, synthetic fibre, synthetic/mixed yarn, cotton yarn, and textile fabrics and accessories for garments — was $3.37 billion in October-December of FY24 while total RMG export earnings stood at $11.77 billion. 

Hence, the net export earnings in this sector stood at $8.40 billion, with 71.35% local value addition in the second quarter of FY24. In contrast, in the same period of FY23, net export earnings stood at $8.61 billion with a 67.69% local value addition.

The RMG sector has been facing numerous challenges such as the Russia-Ukraine conflict, currency depreciation, weak global demand, and global high inflationary pressure, all of which resulted in a slight edge down in exports in this quarter, the central bank said.

The primary markets for Bangladesh’s RMG exports include the US, Germany, the UK, France, Spain, Italy, the Netherlands, Canada, and Belgium.

During October-December of FY24, the RMG export earnings from these nine countries stood at $7.95 billion, which was nearly 68% of total exports.

The report warned that as the global economy is facing major challenges including subdued economic activities owing to higher inflation and higher interest rates, heightened uncertainties regarding the future geo-economic landscape, weak productivity growth and a complex financial environment, export receipts from the RMG sector may also face some challenges in the upcoming months of the current fiscal year.

Several initiatives have been taken by the government and the Bangladesh Bank, particularly the pre-shipment credit, incentives for export expansion, Export Facilitation Fund, Export Development Fund (EDF), and Green Transformation Fund (GTF).

The central bank stated that inter-apparel diversification, reducing lead time and increasing efficiency, ensuring effective research and development, exploring new global markets, skilled RMG workforce and modernization of production process should be priority areas to escalate the RMG export earnings in the future.

In the last fiscal year, Bangladesh exported apparel items worth $46.99 billion.

US national apparel trade association urges Bangladesh to stop detention of RMG workers

The American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA), the US national trade association representing apparel, footwear and other sewn products companies, has called on the Bangladesh government to stop detaining readymade garment (RMG) workers who were involved in labour protests demanding a minimum wage hike last year. 

AAFA President and Chief Executive Officer Stephen Lamar made the call in separate letters to Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina and Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) outgoing President Faruque Hassan on Monday (18 March).

“I am reaching out to seek BGMEA’s support of AAFA’s repeated calls to halt the ongoing detention, as well as the continued threat of detention, facing thousands of workers linked to the protests in Fall 2023,” Stephen Lamar wrote.

“As we have stated before, I also urge BGMEA to request the Bangladesh government to conduct a thorough investigation and ensure accountability for those implicated in the violence that resulted in fatalities and injuries among protesting workers.

“However, it is with deep concern that I must urge BGMEA to join our calls for the Bangladesh government to release all those who were arrested during the protests and to withdraw all criminal charges,” he added.

“We are concerned over criminal charges brought against labour organisers, such as Jewel Miya, who was arrested for advocating for higher wages,” Lamar said.

The AAFA president urged Faruque Hassan and its members to withdraw all first information reports lodged against the workers to remove any further threats of arrest against thousands of workers and prevent future harassment.

Lamar hoped the BGMEA would continue to make significant strides to ensure workers’ welfare.

“In turn, these efforts will only strengthen and grow our mutually beneficial partnership,” he stated.

The AAFA represents more than 1,000 famous brands, which collectively clock more than $490 billion in annual US retail sales.

Speaking to The Business Standard about the letter, Faruque Hassan acknowledged getting the letter.

He said BGMEA would need the names of the workers against whom a claim of detention and a threat of custody has been made to take action in this regard. 

A request has been made in this regard, he noted.

He further said there were some police cases against the workers for alleged involvement in the protests, which have already been withdrawn.

“Besides, the BGMEA has already directed its member factories not to take into account minor incidents.

“However, in the cases where workers who were found to be involved in vandalising and looting factories, beating up senior officials, the owners may choose to continue the police cases,” he added.

In December 2023, the minimum wage for the RMG sector was increased to Tk12,500 in the face of protests by workers across the country. They had demanded a minimum wage range between Tk23,000 and Tk25,000.

RMG to see 0.5% cash support cut every six months

The readymade garment is set to see a 0.5% cut in export incentives every six months as the government plans to get rid of all such cash stimulus on exports by July 2026, months before the country’s scheduled graduation from Least Developed Country status.

Under the finance ministry’s roadmap which is already in force from January this year with initial cuts in cash stimulus, other export sectors will have export incentives slashed by a third every year before being phased out by July 2026.
 
However, the export sectors will be compensated by a raft of alternative supports in the forms of electricity tariff waivers by up to 10%, exemption of licensing fees and import of capital machinery and spare parts paying at a maximum 1% duty. Export industries will be offered low-interest loans and tax breaks for green energy and effluent treatment plants, according to the commerce ministry’s policy draft.
 
Being the largest export sector, the RMG enjoys the most of the cash benefits that led to its spectacular rise in the last four decades and now stands to lose the most as the Bangladesh Bank already started to implement the roadmap in January.

Currently, 43 sectors enjoy incentives, most of which come as cash assistance, which almost all exporters of readymade garments enjoy. For them, the rate was 4%, which was reduced to 3%, as per the 30 January circular of the central bank. It also scaled down incentives for various other export sectors such as jute, frozen fish, potatoes, processed meat– some seeing a decline to zero from 10% or to 15% from 20%.

Apparel industry leaders are concerned about an adverse effect of withdrawal of cash incentives, saying the government needs to put substitutes in force to support export sector stay afloat and competitive after LDC graduation when duty-free access will end.

Industry analysts say the phase-out of cash support is unavoidable under the WTO rule after LDC graduation and businesses need to be ready for the reality with alternative policy supports from the government. 
 
How big is cash support
 
The budget for the current fiscal year has an allocation of Tk15,225 crore in export and remittance incentives. The government’s actual expenditure on this in FY 2021-22 was Tk13409 crore. 

“Cash incentives can be continued till graduation so that exporters can achieve competitiveness by 2026.”

Faruque Hassan, president of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA)

Of the allocation, remittance incentives amount to about Tk4000 crores. Exporters get the rest. And out of this, readymade garment exporters get about 70%.
 
Finance department officials said that the cash incentive rate in the readymade sector will be cut by 0.5% in every January and July in the current and next two fiscal years.
 
As a result, the incentive rate will stand at 1% by June 2026, which will be completely withdrawn by the Ministry of Finance at the beginning of the 2026-27 financial year or from 1 July, 2026.
 
Sectors like jute, jute products, frozen fish, leather, plastic products that now enjoy 10% or less incentives, and others with 12% to 15% rates, will see a cut by one-third every year. Though entitled to higher rates, these sectors receive a small portion of the cash incentives because of their insignificant share of overall exports.
 
In view of LDC graduation, the government had to start reducing cash incentives against existing exports in various sectors from the second half of the current financial year.
 
In the first instance in January, it completely withdrew the 1% special cash incentive against exports of five HS-coded goods in the readymade garments sector. Later, 0.50% was reinstated under the directive of the Prime Minister following demand from the industry.
 
There are other incentives in the readymade clothing sector. For example, in addition to the existing 3% special support for exporters in the Eurozone, there is 1% special support. Small and medium industries in the readymade garment sector get an additional 4% cash support.
 
Besides, the government is providing additional 3% cash assistance for export of new products and export to new markets, and manmade fiver products. The rate of these incentives will also be reduced by the Ministry of Finance every six months. 
 
More on offer

At present, some of the incentives in the export sector include duty drawback scheme, interest rate subsidy, special bonded warehouse, back to back letter of credit, export processing zone (EPZ) facility, import of machinery for export oriented industries, cash incentive, income tax rebate, currency retention scheme, export credit, guarantee scheme, Export Development Fund, exemption of VAT on exports, refund of VAT to exporters are notable.
 
Commerce Ministry officials said that export incentives, income tax concessions and currency retention schemes cannot be given if promoted to developing countries. However, duty drawback, VAT exemption on import and export of inputs used in the production of export goods, VAT refund to exporters, EPZ facility, back to back LC facility, special bonded warehouse and duty drawback scheme facility can be continued.
 
Besides, the export credit guarantee scheme will not be feasible unless the long-term operating costs are factored in. Moreover, the rate of interest and the rate of interest in providing export development funds cannot be lower than the interest rate of the international capital market.
 
Substitutes for cash supports

Although the government has withdrawn cash incentives, the government plans to provide alternative support to exporters in line with WTO guidelines. The Ministry of Commerce has outlined plans to provide various incentives as an alternative in the draft export policy 2024-2027.
 
As an alternative to cash incentives, there will be concessions of 5% to 10% on electricity bills of industries producing major export products, waiving of all types of licensing fees for exporting companies and maintaining the maximum duty rate of 1% on the import of capital machinery and spare parts.
 
Low interest bank loans will be provided from the Export Development Fund for setting up green energy units in export-oriented industries that require round-the-clock electricity. For setting up effluent treatment plants and eco-friendly factories, this fund will provide subsidised interest or low interest loan assistance from the government.
 
Despairs, hopes and reality
 
According to the calculations of the General Economics Department of the Planning Commission, the loss of duty-free benefits due to LDC graduation could reduce Bangladesh’s export earnings by seven billion dollars.
 
However, former member of Bangladesh Trade and Tariff Commission Mostafa Abid Khan told The Business Standard that the European Union and the United Kingdom will continue the duty-free benefits for three years even after LDC graduation. This means, even after graduation, 60% of Bangladesh’s total exports will not suffer at all until at least 2029.
 
He said 73% of Bangladesh’s total exports enjoy duty-free facilities. 80% of this is exported to EU and UK. The remaining 20% duty-free export facility is likely to be lost after the LDC graduation.
 
Mostafa Abid said the impact of withdrawal of cash incentives will depend on what kind of steps the exporting sectors are taking to increase their capacity and what kind of policy support the government will provide as alternative assistance to exporters after graduation.
 
Professor Mostafizur Rahman, distinguished fellow at the Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD), finds the government’s plan to gradually reduce export incentives positive.
 
“If the whole thing is withdrawn at once, the businessmen will not be able to adapt to it. So, cash incentives should be gradually reduced from now on. However, in this case, the decision should be made in accordance with what kind of policy is adopted in WTO,” he told The Business Standard.
 
President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Faruque Hassan does not find it logical to start withdrawing cash incentives right now. “Cash incentives can be continued till graduation so that exporters can achieve competitiveness by 2026.”
 
Faruque said for survival without cash assistance in the post-LDC era, the exporters must increase their capacity.
 
“That’s why industries have started preparing. There are many green factories using energy-efficient technologies. Upgradation of machinery is going on in the factories. Through these we have to increase productivity and bring variety in design,” he said.
 
Executive President of Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) Mohammad Hatem points out that the government has started withdrawing cash incentives in view of LDC graduation, but has not started giving any benefits as an alternative.
 
“We also know that we can no longer expect incentives after graduation. But is it necessary to withdraw right now? It can be continued till LDC graduation scheduled in November 2026,” he said.
 
Hatem said that the Ministry of Finance has not discussed with the exporters about the roadmap for withdrawal of cash incentives. “We think that how the cash assistance will be withdrawn and what benefits will be given as an alternative should be discussed with the traders and decided. If decisions are taken keeping businessmen in the dark, new investment will not come in these sectors,” he said.
 
Mentioning that various developing countries including China, India, Pakistan, Vietnam are providing various assistance to the exporters, Hatem said, India offers 50% of workers’ wage as support for textile industries set up in six of its states. Besides, 30% of the interest waiver and 2 rupees discount per unit on electricity bill are among the offers for the apparel sector in the neighbouring country, he said, suggesting similar offers to help them survive when cash incentives will be gone.

Faruque Hassan emphasises enhancing digital capabilities in garment sector

BGMEA outgoing President Faruque Hassan underscored the garment industry’s strong focus on technological upgradation, particularly software solutions to streamline manufacturing processes.  

During a meeting with Ontik Technology, a leading technology firm specialising in digital solutions, Faruque emphasised the need for collaborative efforts to provide garment factories with the latest software solutions and technical expertise to effectively implement them.  

A delegation of Ontik Technology, headed by its Managing Director SM Mohiuddin Milton, met with Faruque Hassan today (16 March) to explore avenues for advancing digital capabilities within the country’s garment sector.

The meeting, which took place at the BGMEA Complex in Uttara, Dhaka, was attended by Director of Ontik Technology Radin Ahmed and Chief Marketing Officer Md Tahmeed Abdullah.  

The discussions primarily focused on the evolving global trends in digital technologies and their profound impact on the ready-made garment industry, said a press release.

Both sides acknowledged the critical role of embracing IT solutions to enhance the efficiency and productivity of Bangladeshi garment factories, thus ensuring their competitiveness in the digital era.  

They expressed optimism of collaborative initiatives aims at supporting garment factories with innovative software solutions that drive operational efficiency and foster sustainable growth.

RMG BANGLADESH NEWS