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Bangladesh under fire in USITC hearing

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RMG Bangladesh
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US based international organisation United States International Trade Commission (USITC) Monday organised a virtual hearing regarding five countries that exports readymade garments (RMG) to the US. The representatives from Bangladesh were grilled with numerous questions over a large portion of the four-hour hearing.

USITC chairman David Johanson and his three associates asked about various issues, including labour rights, labour, the relative efficiency of production of workers and their wages.

The USITC started an investigation on these five countries at the behest of the office of the United States Trade Representative (USTR). The agency will investigate how these five countries have occupied such a huge part of the RMG sector in the US.

The main target of this investigation is to find whether any of this country took control of the market by any unhealthy competition. The other four countries are – India, Cambodia, Indonesia and Pakistan.

The representatives of the commerce ministry of Bangladesh and the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) answered several questions following their written speeches during the hearing.

BGMEA president Faruque Hassan answered most of the questions on behalf of Bangladesh. Besides, they will have a chance to present written speeches till 24 March. The commission will submit the probe report to the USTR on 30 August.

Commerce secretary Tapan Kanti Ghosh said at the beginning of the hearing that the labour wages have been increased by some 316 per cent in three phases over the last 10 years. However, the cost per unit production cost in the garment sector has increased exponentially. Production cost is not the only precondition in the US market where Bangladesh is in the competition. The government is trying to overcome the challenges lying ahead for the garment sector in various ways.

Following the speech of the commerce secretary, the BGMEA president presented his written speech. Following that, three USITC commissioners Rhonda K Schmidtlein, Jason Kearns and Amy A Karpel grilled the Bangladeshi representatives over labour wages, trade union rights, work environment, health services and life insurance. The BGMEA president answered most of the questions.

One of the USITC commissioners asked whether the average work efficiency and production power of the Bangladeshi labourers is higher than Cambodia or not. They asked whether the labourers can produce comparatively more products despite having a lower wage than the labourers of Cambodia.

Faruque Hassan said in response, “It is not possible for me to say whether the Bangladeshi labourers are more competent than the labourers of Cambodia or not. The garment owners of Bangladesh have made huge investments for machines with modern technologies. Bangladesh is at the top of the list in terms of producing products using automated machines. Therefore, the required level of physical labour from the workers is minimal. However, in terms of production efficiency Bangladesh is behind China, Vietnam and Indonesia.”

News Sources : prothomalo

RMG export to US: Bangladesh sees biggest fall among top 10 exporters

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RMG Bangladesh
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Bangladesh has been the third largest exporter of apparel products to the US for quite some time. Yet, the Made in Bangladesh brands have had a bad time at the US markets recently with exports of readymade garments (RMG) to the US falling by one-third in 2023 and 36 per cent in this January, making the South Asian country the biggest loser among the top 10 apparel exporters.

The United States International Trade Commission (USITC), the US government agency that advises the legislative and executive branches on trade, opened an investigation on five countries including Bangladesh at the behest of the Office of the United States Trade Representative (USTR).

The agency will investigate how these five countries have occupied such a huge part of the RMG sector in the US. The main target of this investigation is to find whether any of these countries took control of the market by any unhealthy competition. The other four countries are – India, Cambodia, Indonesia and Pakistan.

According to the Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA) under the US Department of Commerce, US businesses imported $77.84 billion worth of clothing in 2023, down from $99.86 billion in the same period in 2022.

This marks a 22.05 per cent decrease in US apparel imports compared to the previous year.

Apparel exports from Bangladesh to the country that time decreased by 25 per cent or $2.44 billion while China, the top apparel exporter to the US market, experienced a 24.98 per cent slump, and Vietnam, the second largest exporter, saw a 22.29 per cent drop in exports.

However, US businesses imported $6.04 billion worth of clothing in January 2024 – down by 16.53 per cent year on year. Apparel exports from China and Vietnam dropped by 2 per cent and 5 per cent in January respectively while Bangladesh experienced about a one-third drop in export during this period.

Replying to a query on whether there is any link between the USITC investigation and the fall in apparel exports, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) president Faruque Hassan said there is no relation between the investigation and the drop in exports.

He further said these clothing were exported in October-November last year when work orders were less. Besides, worker unrest over wages also disrupted production and overall exports dropped.

RMG exports of Bangladesh, according to the OTEXA, fell by 36.50 per cent year-on-year to $550 million in January from $866 million in January 2023. Though exports fell, Bangladesh’s share of the US markets still stands at 9.10 per cent.

Bangladesh is the third largest exporter behind China and Vietnam. China exported $1.41 billion worth of ready-made garments in January 2024 – a 2 per cent down from the corresponding period of the previous year.

Exports from Vietnam fell by 4.76 per cent to $1.20 billion. Bangladesh is followed by India and Indonesia. India exported to the US RMG products of $350 million, a drop of 27 per cent, while Indonesia exported $300 million, a drop of 34 per cent.

The other countries among the top 10 apparel exporters to the US are Cambodia, Mexico, Honduras, Italy and Pakistan. All of them witnessed a drop in exports up to 24 per cent except for Honduras, which saw a rise of 22 per cent to $ 150 million.

Though the USITC probe is not linked to the drop in exports, it is a serious issue, Centre for Policy Dialogue research director Khandaker Golam Moazzem observed.

He told Prothom Alo that the US is scrutinising the market capacity in view of labour and human rights. The government and trade organisations also took the matter seriously.

Bangladesh often makes commitments to ensure labour rights, Khandaker Golam Moazzem said, adding that, however, the government and private sectors often show sluggishness in their implementation.

News Sources : prothomalo

Bangladesh in diplomatic, legal battle for GI status of Tangail Saree

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RMG Bangladesh
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Bangladesh has intensified its efforts to challenge the recent recognition of Tangail Saree as a Geographical Indication (GI) product of India.

Under a diplomatic initiative, the Bangladesh high commission in New Delhi has issued a letter to the Indian ministry of external affairs and requested its action. Besides, the authorities here are preparing for a legal battle against the Indian recognition.

The Indian ministry for commerce and industry had acknowledged ‘Banglar Tangail Saree’ or ‘Tangail Saree of Bengal’ as their GI product on 2 January.

Traders, GI specialists, legal experts, and rights defenders stood firm against the Indian recognition and claimed Tangail Saree to be a product of Bangladesh. Since there is no place called Tangail in India, their ministry’s GI recognition is unjust.

The recognition of Tangail Saree in India triggered a huge outcry in Bangladesh and prompted the district administration of Tangail to hastily apply for the GI of the traditional handloom saree on 6 February.

The Department of Patents, Designs, and Trademarks (DPDT), which operates under the industries ministry, approved the application immediately and forwarded it to the government press for printing in a gazette.

Later, the authorities issued the gazette with GI certification of the Tangail Saree on 8 February. As per the law, the GI status will be secured if there are no objections in the next two months.

As per the GI law of India, there is a scope to lodge objections to any GI recognition within three months of declaration. If Bangladesh wants to dispute the decision, it needs to lodge an objection within 1 April.

With the deadline for objections approaching under India’s GI Act, Bangladesh is gearing up for a legal battle alongside negotiations through diplomatic channels.

Touhidul Islam, a law department professor of Dhaka University, believes that there is scopes to settle disputes between two neighbouring countries over shared products through diplomatic negotiations.

He said the authorities here may approach the Indian registrar for GI for cancellation of Tangail Saree’s recognition, and the Indian appellate board with objection to the GI recognition.

Since the appellate board is ineffective now, their High Court may hear the appeal, he said, adding the issue might be raised at the World Trade Organisation’s (WTO) Dispute Settlement Body (DSB) too.

As part of diplomatic efforts, the Bangladesh high-commission in India issued a letter to the Indian external affairs ministry, seeking a solution to the dispute over the GI of Tangail Saree.

The letter made a request to the ministry to take the issue to the authorities concerned and revoke or suspend the GI status of Tangail Saree in India. Also, it proposed bilateral discussion or the formation of a joint technical committee to resolve the issue.

DPDT Director General Munim Hasan told Prothom Alo on Wednesday that they are working sincerely to gain the GI status of Tangail Saree and are conducting efforts at all levels, including the legal channel.

“Tangail Saree is an issue of our national pride and it can never be owned by India,” he said.

Preparation for legal battle

Alongside the diplomatic efforts, the authorities are preparing for a legal battle to attain the GI status of the handloom product.

The industries ministry formed a combined task force to formulate proposals for diplomatic solutions into the dispute. Also, it will take care of the appeal to cancel the GI status and subsequent cases, in engagement with experts.

The task force held its first meeting on Wednesday. A member told Prothom Alo that they decided to appoint a lawyer in India to secure the GI status of the Bangladeshi product.

BGMEA for more investment in non-cotton textile sector

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RMG Bangladesh
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The discussions revolved around exploring investment opportunities within Bangladesh’s non-cotton textile sector. Both sides discussed potential collaborations to enhance the manufacturing capacity of Bangladeshi companies in producing garments utilizing nylon, polyester yarns, and viscose fabrics.

Photo: Courtesy

Increased investment in the non-cotton textile sector is important to propel Bangladesh’s move towards high-value garments, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) outgoing President Faruque Hassan said today (14 March).

Faruque highlighted the export potential in non-cotton products during a meeting with Zhejiang Taihua New Materials Co Ltd representatives at BGMEA Complex in Dhaka, reads a press statement.

BGMEA Vice President Miran Ali and newly elected directors Mohammad Sohel Sadat and Mesbah Uddin Khan also were present.

The discussions revolved around exploring investment opportunities within Bangladesh’s non-cotton textile sector. Both sides discussed potential collaborations to enhance the manufacturing capacity of Bangladeshi companies in producing garments utilising nylon, polyester yarns, and viscose fabrics.

The outgoing president highlighted the move of Bangladesh RMG sector’s move towards non-cotton products, especially high-value fashion items based on man-made fibres (MMF) and technical textiles.

“Bangladesh aims to move up the value chain by diversifying from basic to high-value products, the demand for man-made fibres like polyester, nylon, viscose, and spandex is going up within the garment sector,” he said.

“The growing demand for MMF-based fabrics in Bangladesh has created substantial investment opportunities,” he added.

He urged Zhejiang Taihua New Materials to capitalise on the investment potential within Bangladesh’s manmade textiles, saying that it would yield mutual trade benefits.

Zhejiang Taihua New Materials is a fibre manufacturer renowned for producing world-class yarns and fabrics. The company specializes in spinning, weaving, dyeing, and finishing processes.

Bangladesh RMG grilled over labour rights at US hearing

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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Representatives from Bangladesh’s apparel sector faced tough questions on labour rights, worker productivity, and wages during a virtual hearing held by the United States International Trade Commission (USITC) on Monday.

Five countries that export garments to the US market were questioned by USITC Chairman David Johansson and his three colleagues during the four-hour hearing.

The USITC is investigating labour practices in five major garment-exporting countries to the US – Bangladesh, India, Cambodia, Indonesia, and Pakistan – at the request of the US Trade Representative.

The inquiry aims to determine if any of these nations gain an unfair advantage through unethical labour practices.

The commission is also investigating how these countries have occupied such a large portion of the US garment industry.

“Every export-oriented apparel factory in Bangladesh has trade union, totalling the number to over 1,400”

Faruque Hassan, president, BGMEA

At the USITC hearing, representatives from the commerce ministry and the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) responded to various questions.

Faruque Hassan, president of BGMEA, an association of garment industry owners, answered most of the questions on behalf of Bangladesh.

Apart from this, there will be an opportunity to present written statements till 24 March. The commission will submit its investigation report to the USTR on 30 August.

At the beginning of the hearing on Bangladesh, Commerce Secretary Tapan Kanti Ghosh said workers’ wages have increased by at least 316% in three phases in the last 10 years.

The production cost per unit in the apparel industry has also increased significantly. However, maintaining a competitive edge in the US market for Bangladesh requires more than just low product prices.

He added that the government is trying to overcome the challenges faced by Bangladesh’s garment industry in various ways.

A USITC commissioner asked whether the average work efficiency and productivity of workers in Bangladesh is lower than that of Cambodia. He also questioned whether workers in Bangladesh are capable of producing more goods despite receiving lower wages than in Cambodia.

In response, Faruque Hassan said, “It is not possible for me to say whether Bangladeshi workers are more efficient than Cambodia. Bangladesh’s labour productivity is lower than that of China, Vietnam, and Indonesia.

“Bangladeshi garment industry owners have invested heavily in modern technology machines in the last 20 years. So, the amount of manual labour done by workers in Bangladesh is minimal.”

Talking with TBS Faruque Hassan later said, “We will analyse the Cambodian workers’ efficiency in line with our workers.”

He acknowledged that Bangladeshi workers needed to improve their efficiency to improve productivity.

A USITC commissioner asked why Bangladesh is not allowing trade unions in the Bangladesh Export Processing Zone.

In response, Faruque Hassan said there are trade unions in every apparel factory located in EPZ, while the names are different, workers are choosing their leadership through the elections.

The BGMEA president also mentioned that they were also asked about why the number of trade unions in Bangladesh is lower than Cambodia.

In response, he said in Cambodia, factories have a number of trade unions and that might put their number higher than Bangladesh. However, every export-oriented apparel factory in Bangladesh has a trade union, totalling the number to over 1,400, he said.

The BGMEA president said there is no doubt that Bangladesh is among the few major exporters that has done fairly well in terms of its apparel export to the US in the past decades.

Referring to OTEXA data, Faruque Hassan said the data shows that during 2013-23, Bangladesh’s unit price gained 0.99%, while the global average unit price paid by the US declined by 0.04%.

The BGMEA president said Bangladesh’s unit price to the US was $2.74 in 2017, which increased to $3.23 in 2023.

“In recent years our cost of production has gone exorbitantly high. The price of electricity has gone up by 25%, gas price increased by 286.5%, diesel by 68%, and similar impacts on transport and other cost factors are notable.

“From July 2023 the interest rate on lending is adjusted upward to curb inflation, which has pushed our cost of finance further up, leading to increased cost of production and cost of goods. Also, fees like different registration and certification fees, municipality and city corporation payables, have significantly increased.”

Faruque Hassan said, “If we look at the gradual wage increase since 2010, we can see the aggregate increase in minimum wage is 652%. This time the basic-gross wage ratio has also increased from 51.25% to 53.60%, resulting in higher allowances the workers are entitled to like – overtime allowance.

79% female RMG workers left jobs to care for families: Study

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RMG Bangladesh
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About 79% of female workers who have left jobs in the apparel sector did so to care for their families, according to a new study.

Presently, 71% of these women workers are responsible for caring for their children. Consequently, many find it challenging to balance work and childcare simultaneously, as revealed in the study titled “Unpaid Care Work: Perspectives of Employers and Workers in the RMG Sector.”

Conducted by Karmojibi Nari, a women’s welfare organisation, in partnership with Oxfam Bangladesh, the study also found that approximately 36% of female workers feel overwhelmed trying to manage both responsibilities. Additionally, 41% reported never having any personal time.

Zakia Haque, managing director of Creative Pathway Bangladesh, presented the research report during the seminar at the Cirdap International Conference Center auditorium on Wednesday.

Meher Afroz Chumki, former state minister for women and children affairs, was the chief guest at the seminar, while founder President of Karmojibi Nari Shirin Akhtar presided over the event.

The seminar was moderated by Sanjida Sultana, Additional Executive Director at Karmojibi Nari.

Chumki said it ought to be required for all businesses to have a breastfeeding corner.

She also said the findings should be presented to the ministry without limiting them to seminars.

Ayesha Siddiqui, deputy director (Planning and Evaluation) at the Directorate of Women’s Affairs, said the government has already taken up a project to set up about 60 daycare centres in various industrial areas.

Besides, the government and factory owners should work together to provide sanitary napkins to women workers, she added.

Julia Jasmin, joint inspector general (Health Division) of the factory and Establishment Inspection Directorate, said the number of daycare centres should be determined according to the size of the factory.

She also suggests discussing the possibility of establishing an area-based daycare centre.

Julia Jasmin said the work enthusiasm of the workers decreases, due to four hours of overtime every day.

She also urged parents to keep children over six years of age in daycare.

Female worker Ruby said, “I started working in a factory at a very young age. But now I have lost my job due to old age”.

“We are getting laid off when we become skilled,” she deplored. News Sources : tbsnews

New BGMEA board vows to end harassment by NBR, customs, ports and bonds issues

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RMG Bangladesh
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The newly elected board of directors of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) — the country’s apex trade body of the readymade garment (RMG) manufacturers — will work to resolve the domestic issues the entrepreneurs are facing, said leaders from the winning panel.

They also said that they will continue collaborating with the government about tackling the challenges in the post-LDC era and to sustain the incentives, or its best alternatives.

BGMEA election 2024

On Saturday’s BGMEA biennial elections for 2024-26, SM Mannan Kochi-led Sammilito Parishad decisively clinched victory by bagging all 35 directorship posts.

From Sammilito Parishad and Forum, a total of 70 candidates took part in the elections held in Dhaka and Chittagong.

Election officials said that a total of 2,226 BGMEA members exercised their voting rights out of 2,496 eligible members in the elections.  Of them, 1,839 voted in Dhaka and 387 in Chittagong.

Talking to Dhaka Tribune, SM Mannan Kochi, panel leader of the Sammilito Parishad, said that in the coming days, they will work to resolve harassment by NBR, customs, ports and bonds.

“This harassment slows us down. Despite being the largest productive sector in the country, our entrepreneurs feel helpless and disrespected in the face of this harassment, which is not good for our economy,” he further said.

He also said that ending this harassment will be their priority and they will discuss this matter with the senior officials and ministers of the concerned departments and ministries.

“We have increased wages for our workers. Eid is coming, and we want to celebrate the first Eid with workers by paying wages and bonuses on time,” he added.

He also said that LDC graduation time is approaching and they will discuss with the government how they can be supported as an alternative if the cash assistance is withdrawn.

“We will continue the discussion by forming a team, if necessary,” he said, adding that the opposition panel also has many talented and qualified entrepreneurs and they have to move forward in this critical time with everyone together.

Shovon Islam, a newly elected director with eighth highest votes and also managing director of Sparrow Group, told Dhaka Tribune that they had massive plans ahead.

“This time we want to focus on domestic matters as there is room for improvement. As our business is with countries abroad, we have to continue working with them but there are lots of domestic challenges lying ahead that need to be resolved,” he added.

Clean sweep

Making history, Sammilito Parishad bagged all 35 out of 35 seats.

Among the candidates, SM Mannan Kochi of Seha Designs bagged highest votes, 1,510, where Classic Fashion Concepts MD Shahidullah Azim bagged second highest votes, 1,486.

Urmi Group Md Asif Ashraf got 1,449, where Team Group Md Abdullah Hil Rakib got 1,436 and Laila Style Md Imranur Rahman bagged 1,412 votes.

SM Mannan Kochi said that this landslide victory is the reward of the work they have done over years for the RMG manufacturers of the country.

“I have been working for the sector for the last 24 years and all the other directors have won, also working for the sector. We formed a panel with a combination of experienced members and fresh blood, which excited the voters,” he added.

Shovon Islam said that the country’s RMG entrepreneurs are always wise and they evaluate the work the candidates do very carefully.

“We won because we work for the entrepreneurs. If you do not work for the sector, the entrepreneurs never vote for you, no matter how large an entrepreneur you are,” he added.

Mohiuddin Rubel, another elected director and also a director of the current board, told Dhaka Tribune that unity and strategic planning helped them to ensure a groundbreaking victory.

They formed a panel with both experienced and new entrepreneurs which helped them to attract voters, he went on noting that 14 totally fresh directors entered the board this year’s elections.

Two panels — Sammilita Parishad and Forum, led by Kochi and Faisal Samad respectively, took part in the elections.

Vote casting started at Dhaka and Chittagong regions at 10:00AM on Saturday and ended at 5:00PM as scheduled, with a final turnout of 89.18%, both in Dhaka and Chittagong regions.

At the Dhaka centre, 1,839 out of 2,032 votes were casted, around 90.5% of the city’s total votes, while in Chittagong 387 out of 462 votes were casted, around 83.4% of the total votes.

In both regions, 2,226 votes were casted out of 2,496 votes — 89.18% of total votes, said Jahangir Alamin, chairman of the election board.

শখের বসে স্কুলশিক্ষিকা থেকে উদ্যোক্তা সোহেলী

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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স্কুলশিক্ষিকা সোহেলী সাজিয়া ওরফে মিথিলা ব্যবসাটা শুরু করেছিলেন অনেকটা শখের বসে। প্রথম দিকে ফেসবুক পেজে আমদানি করা পণ্য বিক্রি করতেন। পরে নিজেই একটু কারখানা খুলে ডেনিম ব্যাগ ও রিসাইকেল পণ্য তৈরি শুরু করেন। ব্যবসা করতে গিয়ে তিনি সময়ে সময়ে যেমন ঠেকেছেন, তেমনি ঠকেছেনও। তবে হাল ছাড়েননি। তিনি এখন মাসে গড়ে এক লাখ টাকার পণ্য বিক্রি করেন।

সোহেলী সাজিয়া সম্প্রতি রাজধানীর উত্তরায় তাঁর বিদোরা ব্যাগ অ্যান্ড হ্যান্ডিক্র্যাফটসের কার্যালয়ে বসে প্রথম আলোকে তাঁর উদ্যোক্তা হওয়ার গল্প শোনান। তিনি প্রতিষ্ঠানটির প্রধান নির্বাহী। সোহেলী সাজিয়া জানান, তিনি বড় হয়েছেন চট্টগ্রামের আগ্রাবাদে। সেখান থেকেই মাধ্যমিক ও উচ্চমাধ্যমিক শেষে ভর্তি হন চট্টগ্রাম বিশ্ববিদ্যালয়ের। ২০০৮ সালে মার্কেটিং বিভাগ থেকে স্নাতকোত্তর শেষে কিছুদিন একটি বেসরকারি ব্যাংকে ইন্টার্ন হিসেবে কাজ করেন। ২০০৮ সালের মাঝামাঝি বিয়ে হলে তিনি ঢাকার উত্তরায় চলে আসেন এবং সেখানকার একটি ইংরেজি মাধ্যম স্কুলে শিক্ষকতার চাকরি নেন।

কারখানায় কাজ করছেন শ্রমিকেরাসংগৃহীত

একাকিত্ব কাটাতে ব্যবসায়

সোহেলী সাজিয়ার পথচলার বাঁকবদল হয় ২০১৪ সালে। ওই বছর তাঁর বাবা বীর মুক্তিযোদ্ধা আব্দুল হাই মারা যান। এই শোকে তিনি বিষণ্নতা (ডিপ্রেশন) ও একাকিত্বে ভুগতে শুরু করেন। স্কুলের শিক্ষকতায়ও মন বসছিল না তাঁর। এভাবে কয়েক মাস যাওয়ার পরে একজন মনোরোগ চিকিৎসক তাঁকে সার্বক্ষণিক (ফুল টাইম) কোনো কাজে যুক্ত হওয়ার পরামর্শ দেন।

তখন সোহেলীকে তাঁর স্বামী সাবির আহমেদ অনলাইনে (ফেসবুকে) পণ্য বিক্রির পরামর্শ দিয়ে বলেন, চীনের তৈরি ফেব্রিকসের ব্যাগ ও কিচেন অ্যাকসেসরিজের মতো ঘরে ব্যবহৃত বিভিন্ন পণ্যের বেশ চাহিদা রয়েছে বাংলাদেশে। সোহেলীও তাতে রাজি হয়ে যান। খুলে ফেলেন একটি ফেসবুক পেজ। নাম দেন ‘মজার কেনা’। এ জন্য স্বামীর কাছ থেকে এক লাখ টাকা ধার নেন সোহেলী। পরে অবশ্য তা ফেরতও দিয়েছেন।

সোহেলী জানান, চীন থেকে পণ্যের প্রথম চালান আসে ২০১৬ সালের মাঝামাঝি। পণ্যগুলোর মধ্যে ছিল ওভেন কাভার, ওষুধের ব্যাগ, কাঁধের ব্যাগ ইত্যাদি। প্রথমে বাসার ড্রয়িংরুমে ও কয়েক দিনের মাথায় কাছাকাছি একটা বাড়ির চিলেকোঠায় একটি রুম ভাড়া নিয়ে পণ্য রাখেন। বিপণন কৌশল হিসেবে পণ্যের ভিডিও ধারণ করে ফেসবুক পেজে দিতেন তিনি। এতে অল্পদিনেই বেশ সাড়া পাওয়া যায়। তাতে ব্যবসা বৃদ্ধি পায়। তখন বছরে পাঁচ–ছয় লাখ টাকার পণ্য বিক্রি হতো। এর বেশির ভাগই ছিল বিভিন্ন ধরনের ফেব্রিক ব্যাগ। এভাবে ২০১৯ সাল পর্যন্ত চলে।

ব্যাগ সেলাই করছেন একজন শ্রমিকসংগৃহীত

বিপণন থেকে উৎপাদনে

সোহেলী সাজিয়া জানান, ২০২০ সালের শুরুতে দেশে করোনার প্রকোপ শুরু হলে চীন থেকে পণ্য আমদানিতে অসুবিধায় পড়েন তিনি। তখন নিজেই দেশে ডেনিম ব্যাগ তৈরির চিন্তা করেন। সোহেলী বলেন, ‘অনলাইনে বিদেশি পণ্য বিক্রি করে ভালো লাগছিল না আমার। মাঝেমধ্যে পণ্যের মান নিয়ে গ্রাহকের অভিযোগ পেতাম। ভেবে দেখলাম, দেশে ভালো মানের ডেনিমসহ বিভিন্ন ফেব্রিক পাওয়া যায়। ফলে এ ধরনের ব্যাগ তৈরি করা সম্ভব।’

কাছাকাছি সময়ে জাপানি একটি রপ্তানিমুখী চামড়া পণ্যের (ব্যাগ ও জুতা) কোম্পানি বাংলাদেশে কারখানা বন্ধ করে দেয়। তাতে প্রতিষ্ঠানটির কর্মীরা চাকরি হারান। এই তথ্য জেনে সোহেলী ওই প্রতিষ্ঠানের ছয় কর্মীকে নিয়োগ দেন। আর কারখানার জন্য টঙ্গীর পুবাইলে একটি বাড়ি ভাড়া নেন। নিজের প্রথম কন্যা বিদোরার নামের সঙ্গে মিলিয়ে প্রতিষ্ঠানের নাম রাখেন বিদোরা ব্যাগ অ্যান্ড হ্যান্ডিক্র্যাফটস লিমিটেড। এ নামে তাঁর একটি ফেসবুক পেজও রয়েছে।

প্রায় তিন মাস পর নিজের কারখানায় তৈরি প্রথম ব্যাগ বাজারে আনেন এই উদ্যোক্তা। ভিনটেজ ধরনের ডেনিম দিয়ে তৈরি ব্যাগটির ভিডিও ফেসবুক পেজে দেওয়ার প্রথম দিনেই ৩৮টি অর্ডার আসে। পরে এই ব্যাগের চাহিদা আরও বাড়তে থাকে। এরপর আর পেছন ফিরে তাকাতে হয়নি।

বর্তমানে সোহেলীর কারখানায় ১৬ জন কর্মী কাজ করছেন; যাঁদের বেশির ভাগই নারী। সংগৃহীত

ঠেকে শেখা, ঠকেও শেখা

সোহেলী সাজিয়া প্রথম আলোকেজানান, কারখানা পরিচালনায় তিনি যেসব কর্মীর ওপরে ভরসা করতেন, তাঁদের একটি অংশ একবার হঠাৎ চাকরি ছেড়ে দেন। এতে তিনি বেশ বেকায়দায় পড়েন, ক্ষতিগ্রস্ত হন। এরপর টঙ্গী থেকে গাজীপুর সদরের শালনা এলাকায় কারখানা স্থানান্তর করেন তিনি।

বর্তমানে সোহেলীর কারখানায় ১৬ জন কর্মী কাজ করছেন; যাঁদের বেশির ভাগই নারী। ব্যবসায়ে এখন পর্যন্ত প্রায় ৩৫ লাখ টাকা বিনিয়োগ করেছেন এই উদ্যোক্তা। প্রতি মাসে প্রায় আড়াই থেকে তিন লাখ টাকার পণ্য বিক্রি হচ্ছে। অনলাইনের পাশাপাশি জয়িতা ফাউন্ডেশনের বিক্রয়কেন্দ্র এবং কয়েকটি সুপারশপে পাওয়া যায় বিদোরার পণ্য।

অনানুষ্ঠানিকভাবে যুক্তরাষ্ট্র, কানাডা, দক্ষিণ আফ্রিকাসহ কয়েকটি দেশে পৌঁছেছে বিদোরার পণ্য। সোহেলী সাজিয়া জানান, বর্তমানে সারা বিশ্বে ডেনিম ব্যাগ ও রিসাইকেল পণ্যের অনেক সম্ভাবনা রয়েছে। ফলে ভালো মানের পণ্য তৈরি করতে পারলে দেশে বিক্রির পাশাপাশি বিদেশেও এসব পণ্য রপ্তানি করা সম্ভব। এ জন্য অবশ্য আর বিনিয়োগ ও কারখানার পরিসর বাড়ানো দরকার। সোহেলী বলেন, ‘সহজ শর্তে ঋণসহায়তা পেলে ব্যবসাকে আরও এগিয়ে নিতে পারব।’

Timely salary disbursal, festival allowance for RMG workers first priority: BGMEA president-elect

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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Timely disbursal of salaries and festival allowances for readymade garment workers is the first priority, president-elect of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) SM Mannan Kochi said.

Speaking to The Business Standard in an immediate reaction after the announcement of the election result at the BGMEA office at Uttara in Dhaka on Sunday, he expressed his gratitude to all the apparel exporters who gave their mandates for the win.

Kochi-led panel Sammilito Parishad achieved a clean sweep by securing all 35 directorship positions at the biennial election of the BGMEA for the 2024-26 tenure.

The Sammilito Parishad leader said he is committed to working together as a team for the betterment of the apparel industry.

Kochi, also the Awami League Dhaka North City secretary general, has been serving as senior vice president of BGMEA in the current board.

SM Mannan, also the Seha Design (BD) Ltd managing director, is set to become the 20th president of the apparel exporter’s apex body, who secured 1510 votes out of 2496 votes.

In the election, 2,226 out of the total 2,496 votes were cast in Dhaka and Chattogram, and the voting turnout was 89.18%. In Dhaka, 1,839 out of 2,032 votes were cast, resulting in a voter turnout rate of 90.50%. In Chattogram, 387 out of 464 votes were cast, yielding a voter turnout of 83.41%.

Kochi said a good number of qualified, experienced and brilliant entrepreneurs belong to the other panel, Forum. He also said from now on, they will work together as “Team BGMEA” for the betterment of the industry. 

“We [apparel exporters] are going through a very tough time, and lots of challenges are ahead in the coming days. To address these challenges we will work together, and it is my commitment to all members, despite the fact that we have contested in this election divided in two panels.”

“The industry may face an immediate challenge, that is to pay their workers festival allowances and monthly salaries during the next two Eids,” he added. 

“We want to celebrate the next Eids with our workers joyfully, despite the challenges as the new wage structure has been implemented since last December. Especially small and medium scale factories may face challenges in paying timely.” 

Another priority for his panel is to reduce harassment by National Board of Revenue (NBR) customs officials during the import of raw materials and exporting goods.

He said he will try to resolve the problems in the customs, bonds and the NBR as “many factory owners and tax officials have some misunderstanding and sometimes factory owners become the victims of harassment.”

Kochi said, “Such harassment has reduced the flow of their work speed and entrepreneurs feel humiliated, to overcome this situation we will talk with the relevant department top officials and relevant ministers also.”

“In the long-term commitment, we will also work with the government to continue the incentives after the LDC graduations as 2026 is knocking on our door, which is the deadline to graduate from a less developed country status.”

“We have some examples from neighbouring countries and competitor countries continuing their incentives for export sectors after withdrawal of cash incentives against export,” he added.

To continue incentives that might be needed to introduce an alternative system, he said, “We will request the government to form a highly powerful committee along with BGMEA, and BKMEA representatives to find out a solution.”

He also expressed his gratitude to the government for re-continuing exporters’ cash incentives after a sudden withdrawal.

The newly elected directors are scheduled to nominate Kochi as the BGMEA president and other vice-presidents for the tenure 2024-26 on 23 March. 

The current board of the BGMEA is set to expire on 9 April and will hand over the charge to the new board.  

বাংলাদেশসহ ৫ দেশের পোশাকশিল্পের প্রতিযোগিতার সক্ষমতা নিয়ে তদন্ত শুরু

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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বাংলাদেশসহ যুক্তরাষ্ট্রের বাজারে রপ্তানি করে এমন পাঁচটি দেশের তৈরি পোশাকশিল্পের বিষয়ে আগামী বৃহস্পতিবার থেকে নতুন করে তদন্ত শুরু করছে ইউএসআইটিসি। অন্য চারটি দেশ হলো ভারত, কম্বোডিয়া, ইন্দোনেশিয়া ও পাকিস্তান। বাংলাদেশ নিয়ে শুনানি হবে আগামী শনিবার। যুক্তরাষ্ট্রের সরকারি সংস্থা আন্তর্জাতিক বাণিজ্য কমিশনের (ইউএসআইটিসি) ওয়েবসাইট থেকে এ তথ্য জানা গেছে।

জানা গেছে, মার্কিন বাণিজ্য প্রতিনিধি দপ্তরের (ইউএস টিআর) অনুরোধে বাংলাদেশসহ এই পাঁচ দেশ নিয়ে তদন্ত শুরু করছে ইউএসআইটিসি। কীভাবে এ দেশগুলো মার্কিন পোশাকশিল্পের বাজারে এত বড় অংশ দখল করে রেখেছে, তা তথ্যানুসন্ধান করে দেখবে কমিশন। এই পাঁচ দেশের কেউ অসুস্থ প্রতিযোগিতার মাধ্যমে বাজার দখল করছে কি না, তা খুঁজে বের করাই প্রধান উদ্দেশ্য এ কমিশনের।

কূটনৈতিক সূত্রে জানা গেছে, পোশাকশিল্পের পরিস্থিতি নিয়ে ইউএসআইটিসির শুনানিতে বাণিজ্য মন্ত্রণালয়, বিজিএমইএর পাশাপাশি শ্রমিক প্রতিনিধিরা অংশ নেবেন। ওয়াশিংটনে ইউএসআইটিসির দপ্তরে গিয়ে সরাসরি ও ভার্চ্যুয়ালি ওই শুনানিতে বাংলাদেশের সংশ্লিষ্ট পক্ষের প্রতিনিধিদের অংশ নেওয়ার কথা রয়েছে।

গত মাসে যুক্তরাষ্ট্রের একটি উচ্চ পর্যায়ের প্রতিনিধিদল ঢাকা সফরে এসেছিল। ওই সফরের সময় তারা বাংলাদেশের শ্রম পরিস্থিতির উন্নতির ওপর জোর দিয়েছে। তারা বিশেষ করে শ্রমিকদের সমাবেশ এবং ট্রেড ইউনিয়ন করার অধিকার, ট্রেড ইউনিয়ন নিবন্ধন প্রক্রিয়ার আইন সংশোধন নিয়ে সরকারের সঙ্গে মুক্ত আলোচনার মতো বিষয়গুলো নিয়ে উদ্বেগ প্রকাশ করে এবং সেগুলো সরকারের সঙ্গে আলোচনায় তুলে ধরেছিল।

বাংলাদেশের পোশাকশিল্পের বিষয়ে ইউএসআইটিসির তদন্তের বিষয়ে জানতে চাইলে পররাষ্ট্রসচিব মাসুদ বিন মোমেন গতকাল সোমবার গণমাধ্যমকে বলেন, বিষয়টি নিয়ে বাণিজ্য মন্ত্রণালয়, তৈরি পোশাক মালিকদের সংগঠন বিজিএমইএসহ সংশ্লিষ্টরা কাজ করছে। তদন্তকে চলমান প্রক্রিয়া হিসেবেই দেখা যেতে পারে। যুক্তরাষ্ট্রকে জানিয়েছি, এ তদন্ত যদি বস্তুনিষ্ঠতার ভিত্তিতে হয়, সেটি তারা করতেই পারে। এ তদন্তে যাতে রাজনৈতিক উদ্দেশ্য না থাকে, সেটি ঢাকার কাম্য।

পররাষ্ট্রসচিব আরও বলেন, বাংলাদেশ প্রতিযোগিতা করেই আজ পোশাকশিল্পে বর্তমান স্থান অর্জন করেছে। আর যদি প্রতিযোগিতাবিরোধী কিছু তদন্তে উঠে আসে, তাহলে তা আমলে নেবে বাংলাদেশ। তবে দীর্ঘদিন ধরে বাংলাদেশ অত্যন্ত স্বচ্ছতার সঙ্গে তৈরি পোশাকশিল্পের ব্যবসা করে আসছে। আর মানদণ্ডের ক্ষেত্রে বাংলাদেশের সক্ষমতা অনেক বৃদ্ধি পেয়েছে।

পররাষ্ট্র মন্ত্রণালয়ের কর্মকর্তাদের সঙ্গে কথা বলে জানা গেছে, আগামী শনিবার অনুষ্ঠেয় ইউএসআইটিসির শুনানিতে বাণিজ্য মন্ত্রণালয় ও বিজিএমইএ মৌখিক ও লিখিতভাবে তাদের বক্তব্য উপস্থাপন করতে পারে। এ ছাড়া শুনানির পরও ২২ মার্চ পর্যন্ত লিখিত বক্তব্য উপস্থাপনের সুযোগ থাকবে। আগামী ৩০ আগস্ট কমিশন তাদের তদন্ত প্রতিবেদন ইউএসটিআরের কাছে উপস্থাপন করবে।

জানা গেছে, তদন্তে শ্রম পরিবেশ ও পরিস্থিতির সার্বিক বিষয়গুলো দেখবে কমিশন। সেখানে নিয়ম মেনে ভবন করা হয়েছে কি না, শ্রমিকের কর্মপরিবেশ, ট্রেড ইউনিয়ন অধিকারের চর্চা, অগ্নিনির্বাপণের ব্যবস্থা, শ্রমিকের সঙ্গে কেমন আচরণ করা হচ্ছে—এ ধরনের সব বিষয় বিবেচনায় নেওয়া হবে। দীর্ঘদিন ধরেই বাংলাদেশের শ্রম পরিস্থিতি নিয়ে উদ্বেগ জানিয়ে আসছে যুক্তরাষ্ট্র।

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Ready Made Garments sector is the key source of foreign currency and GDP for Bangladesh. Approximately 4.2 million people are dependent on the RMG sector for their bread and butter.
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