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Another Bangladeshi RMG factory now Leed-certified

One more Bangladeshi readymade garment (RMG) factory unit obtained United States Green Building Council’s (USGBC) leadership in energy and environmental design (Leed) certificate, according to the BGMEA.

KC Jacket Wear Company, a factory unit based in Uttara, Dhaka, received a platinum certificate from the USGBC at Leed O+M: Existing Building v4.1 rating system with a score of 84 this month.

With this, Bangladesh further solidified its position as a global leader in environmentally friendly apparel manufacturing, boasting 218 Leed-certified factories, including 84 platinum-rated, 120 gold-rated, 10 silver-rated, and four certified factories. 

Fifty-six of the world’s top 100 Leed green factories are currently in Bangladesh, including nine of the top 10 and 18 of the top 20, indicating a remarkable achievement that is poised to attract additional investment and partnerships, cementing Bangladesh’s reputation as a sustainable manufacturing hub. 

Moreover, Bangladesh is also home to the highest and the second-highest-scoring green factories.

So far this year, 12 factory units obtained Leed certification, of which eight were platinum and four were gold categories, BGMEA stated.

The rapid increase in Leed-certified green factories in Bangladesh is a clear and direct result of the garment industry’s unwavering commitment to environmental sustainability.

This dedication to sustainability is crucial for ensuring the long-term viability and success of this industry.

Another 550 factories are waiting to get the USGBC’s Leed certification.

The factory units of Bangladesh have been obtaining the Leed certificate since 2001.

USGBC honours factories based on several criteria — transformation performance, energy, water, and waste management. The best performers are rated with platinum, followed by gold and silver.

These criteria help green factories significantly to reduce operational costs over time even though they may initially cost more to set up, according to industry insiders. These factories also provide a safe working environment for employees.

Talking to Dhaka Tribune, BGMEA Director Mohiuddin Rubel said it was thrilling to see the incredible progress Bangladesh’s RMG industry is making towards sustainability.

“The rise in Leed-certified factories is a true testament to our collective commitment to a greener future. This is a game-changer. It is imperative to understand the growing importance of sustainable practices,” he also said.

He also said that consumers worldwide are increasingly demanding eco-conscious clothing, and Bangladesh is stepping up by embracing LEED certification. Bangladesh is not just protecting the environment, they are also strengthening its position as a responsible global player. 

“This translates into a stronger brand reputation for Bangladesh, attracting investment and ensuring long-term success for the RMG sector. It’s a win-win for everyone – the environment, our industry, and ultimately, the future of fashion,” he added.

According to apparel manufacturers, the move towards green factory buildings helped regain Bangladesh’s image after the Rana Plaza tragedy, which claimed 1,134 lives and left more than 2,000 injured.

RMG exports to the EU up by 3.66%

Exports to Spain, France, the Netherlands, Poland, and Denmark saw increases of 6.07%, 3.42%, 17.51%, 20.65%, and 32% respectively

Bangladesh’s readymade garment (RMG) exports to the European Union reached $19.90 billion during July-April of FY24, marking a 3.66% increase compared to the same period in the previous fiscal year, according to the latest statistics from the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB).

Mohiuddin Rubel, director of BGMEA, highlighted specific growth figures in various EU markets. 

Exports to Spain, France, the Netherlands, Poland, and Denmark saw increases of 6.07%, 3.42%, 17.51%, 20.65%, and 32% respectively. 

However, apparel exports to Italy declined by 2.45%, he informed. 

Germany, the largest market for Bangladesh’s RMG exports in the EU, experienced a significant decline by 9.40%, with export value dropping to $5.01 billion compared to the previous fiscal year’s corresponding period.

In the US, RMG exports fell by 1.90%, reaching $6.81 billion in the first ten months of FY24. 

Conversely, the UK and Canada saw substantial growth in imports of Bangladeshi garment products, with values reaching $4.8 billion and $1.26 billion, reflecting year-on-year increases of 14.55% and 2.95%, respectively.

Exports to non-traditional markets showed robust growth, increasing by 10% to $7.70 billion from $7 billion in the previous year.

Among them, exports to Japan, Australia, and South Korea recorded growth of 6.14%, 17.18%, and 14.73% respectively. 

However, exports to India saw a significant decline by 22.44%, a downturn that Rubel noted has been ongoing since August 2023.

RMG stakeholders urge govt to reduce import duties on renewable energy

Recently, stakeholders in Bangladesh’s ready-made garment (RMG) sector have called for the government to reduce import duties on renewable energy materials, such as solar power equipment.

This appeal was made during a focus group discussion organized by the Business Initiative Leading Development (BUILD) on the topic of “Energy transition in the apparel sector”, particularly concerning market access to the EU on 21 May.

RMG stakeholders urge govt to reduce import duties on renewable energy

The current import duties on raw materials for setting up renewable energy plants in Bangladesh range from 25% to 28%, and in some cases, they can be as high as 85%.

These high tariffs are seen as a significant barrier to the adoption of renewable energy sources within the RMG sector.

Stakeholders urged that lowering these duties would help garment factories transition to more sustainable energy sources, thus reducing their carbon footprint and aligning with global sustainability goals.

Additionally, stakeholders highlighted the need for government policy support to establish domestic factories for producing renewable energy equipment, which would further aid in making renewable energy more accessible and affordable for the industry.

This push for renewable energy adoption is partly driven by pressure from European buyers, who are increasingly prioritizing sustainability and emission-free products.

This move is crucial for maintaining the competitiveness of Bangladesh’s RMG sector, especially as the country prepares to graduate from its Least Developed Country (LDC) status by 2026. The transition to renewable energy is seen as a way to enhance the sector’s sustainability, reduce costs in the long term, and meet the stringent environmental standards of international markets​

BUILD CEO Ferdaus Ara Begum highlighted the apparel industry’s consistent success as Bangladesh’s primary export, ranking second globally after China. 

Over the past decade, apparel exports have consistently accounted for 80-85% of Bangladesh’s total export share, reaching $47 billion in 2023. The EU market stands as a crucial export destination for this sector.

Regarding this, Ferdaus Ara said that currently RMG factories can derive 10-15% only of their total energy from rooftop solar, necessitating the purchase of renewable energy certificates to meet the remainder, incurring significant costs. However, purchasing certificates does not reduce local emissions. 

Also, the importance of reducing carbon footprint and increasing renewable energy usage to avoid concerns about exporting RMG products to the EU market. 

According to Shams Mahmud, director of BGMEA and Managing Director of Shasha Denims Limited, approximately 750 BGMEA members operate as SMEs and will face challenges in ramping up renewable energy usage due to the substantial investment required.

নিলামে উঠছে একসময়ের শীর্ষস্থানীয় পোশাক রপ্তানিকারক ওপেক্সের কার্যালয়

দেশের একসময়কার শীর্ষস্থানীয় তৈরি পোশাক রপ্তানিকারক ওপেক্স গ্রুপের প্রধান কার্যালয় নিলামে তুলতে যাচ্ছে স্টান্ডার্ড চার্টার্ড ব্যাংক (এসসিবি)। একই সঙ্গে প্রতিষ্ঠানটির প্রায় ১৪ কাঠা বা ২৩ দশমিক ৩৫ ডেসিমেল জমিও নিলামে তুলছে ব্যাংকটি। ওপেক্স গ্রুপের প্রতিষ্ঠান সিনহা ইন্ডাস্ট্রিজের ৫৩ কোটি টাকা খেলাপি ঋণ আদায়ে এই পদক্ষেপ নিয়েছে বহুজাতিক ব্যাংকটি।

এসসিবি গত রোববার সিনহা ইন্ডাস্ট্রিজ লিমিটেডের বন্ধকি সম্পত্তি নিলামে বিক্রির জন্য দরপত্র আহ্বান করে গণমাধ্যমে বিজ্ঞাপন দিয়েছে। এতে বলা হয়, সিনহা ইন্ডাস্ট্রিজের চেয়ারম্যান ও ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালক আনিসুর রহমান সিনহা ২০১৩ সালে দুই দফায় সম্পত্তি বন্ধক রেখে ঋণ নেন। বর্তমানে সেই ঋণ সুদ-আসলসহ ৫২ কোটি ৬৮ লাখ ৮২ হাজার টাকায় দাঁড়িয়েছে।

আনিসুর রহমান সিনহা আমাদের তৈরি পোশাকশিল্পের একজন সফল উদ্যোক্তা। সরকার ও বাংলাদেশ ব্যাংকের উচিত তাঁর মতো প্রবীণ উদ্যোক্তাদের পাশে দাঁড়ানো।

এস এম মান্নান, সভাপতি, বিজিএমইএ

বকেয়া ঋণ ও সুদ আদায়ে এসসিবি ওপেক্স গ্রুপের মহাখালীতে ৮ কাঠা ৪ ছটাক জমির ওপর অবস্থিত প্রধান কার্যালয় ভবনের ১৪টি তলা নিলামে তুলবে। সেগুলো হচ্ছে দুটি ভূগর্ভস্থ তলা, নিচতলা, প্রথম, পঞ্চম, ষষ্ঠ, সপ্তম, অষ্টম, নবম, তেরো, চৌদ্দ, পনেরো, ষোলো ও সতেরোতম তলা। এ ছাড়া মিরপুর ১৩ নম্বর সেকশন এলাকার ১৪ কাঠা জমি নিলামে তোলা হবে। নিলামে অংশ নিতে আগ্রহী ব্যক্তি বা প্রতিষ্ঠানকে ৬ জুনের মধ্যে আবেদন জমা দিতে বলেছে এসসিবি।

ওপেক্স গ্রুপ দেশের তৈরি পোশাকশিল্পের শুরুর দিকের একটি প্রতিষ্ঠান। আশির দশকে প্রতিষ্ঠানটি গড়ে তোলেন আনিসুর রহমান সিনহা। পাশাপাশি সিনহা টেক্সটাইল গ্রুপের মাধ্যমে কাপড়সহ অন্যান্য সরঞ্জাম সরবরাহের উদ্যোগ নেন তিনি। পরে দেশের অন্যতম শীর্ষ তৈরি পোশাক রপ্তানিকারক প্রতিষ্ঠানে পরিণত হয় ওপেক্স অ্যান্ড সিনহা টেক্সটাইল গ্রুপ।

ঢাকা-সিলেট মহাসড়কের কাঁচপুরে বস্ত্র ও পোশাক উৎপাদনের বড় একটি কমপ্লেক্স গড়ে তুলেছিল ওপেক্স গ্রুপ। সেখানে শার্ট, সোয়েটার, ডেনিম, নিট পোশাক ইত্যাদি তৈরি হতো। ৪৩ একর জমির ওপর গড়ে ওঠা ওই কমপ্লেক্স এশিয়ার অন্যতম বৃহৎ বস্ত্র ও পোশাক কমপ্লেক্স হিসেবেও স্বীকৃতি পায়। রানা প্লাজা ধসের পর থেকে ব্যবসা হারাতে থাকে প্রতিষ্ঠানটি। করোনার সময় বড় ধাক্কা খায় তারা।

অব্যাহত লোকসানের মুখে ২০২১ সালের অক্টোবরে কাঁচপুর ইউনিটের সব কারখানা একযোগে বন্ধ করে দেয় ওপেক্স কর্তৃপক্ষ। তখন তারা বলেছিল, ওপেক্স অ্যান্ড সিনহা টেক্সটাইল গ্রুপের স্বত্বাধিকারী ২০১২ সাল থেকে কাঁচপুরের সব কারখানায় আর্থিক ক্ষতির সম্মুখীন হয়েছেন। তারপরও ঋণ ও জমিজমা বিক্রির মাধ্যমে বেতন-ভাতা ও অন্যান্য খরচ দিয়ে কারখানাগুলো চালু রেখেছিলেন। কিন্তু করোনা মহামারিতে ক্রয়াদেশের অভাব দেখা দেয়। তা ছাড়া শ্রমিক-কর্মচারীদের বিশৃঙ্খলার পাশাপাশি নিম্নদক্ষতা ও সময়ে সময়ে কার্যক্রম সম্পূর্ণ বন্ধ রাখার কারণে কারখানার পরিবেশ নষ্ট হয়েছে। এ অবস্থায় মালিকের আর্থিক অবস্থার চরম অবনতি ঘটেছে। বর্তমানে কারখানাগুলো চালিয়ে রাখার মতো আর্থিক সংগতি বা সামর্থ্য নেই। ফলে ওপেক্স গ্রুপের কাঁচপুর ইউনিটের সব পোশাক কারখানা এবং ওয়াশিং প্ল্যান্টসহ সংশ্লিষ্ট সব ইউনিট স্থায়ীভাবে বন্ধ ঘোষণা করা হয় ২০২১ সালে।

কাঁচপুর ছাড়াও মিরপুর ও আদমজী ইপিজেডেও ওপেক্স গ্রুপের কারখানা রয়েছে। গ্রুপটির ১৬টি কারখানা তৈরি পোশাকশিল্প মালিকদের সংগঠন বিজিএমইএর সদস্য। বর্তমানে গ্রুপটির কোনো কারখানা তৈরি পোশাক রপ্তানির উদ্দেশ্যে কাঁচামাল আমদানির প্রাপ্যতা (ইডি) নিচ্ছে না—এমন তথ্যই জানালেন বিজিএমইএর একজন জ্যেষ্ঠ কর্মকর্তা। 

জানতে চাইলে নিট পোশাকশিল্প মালিকদের সংগঠন বিকেএমইএর নির্বাহী সভাপতি মোহাম্মদ হাতেম প্রথম আলোকে বলেন, বর্তমানে আনিসুর রহমান সিনহা ভাইয়ের সব কটি কারখানা বন্ধ। তবে তিনি মিরপুর ও আদমজীর কারখানা চালুর চেষ্টা করছেন। এসসিবি ব্যাংকের সম্পত্তি নিলামের বিষয়টি তিনি সমাধানের চেষ্টা করছেন বলে জানান বিকেএমইএর এই নেতা।

জানা যায়, আনিসুর রহমান সিনহার বয়স এখন ৮০–এর কোঠায়। তাঁর একমাত্র কন্যা দেশের বাইরে থাকেন। ফলে দেশের তৈরি পোশাক খাতের একসময়ের সফল ব্যবসায়ীর গড়ে তোলা ব্যবসার হাল ধরেনি দ্বিতীয় প্রজন্ম। তৈরি পোশাকের পাশাপাশি পোলট্রি ব্যবসাও আছে তাঁদের। ২০০১ সালে আনিসুর রহমান সিনহা ফাস্ট ফুড চেইন বিএফসি প্রতিষ্ঠা করেন।

এসসিবি ব্যাংকের সম্পত্তি নিলামের বিষয়ে জানতে চেয়ে আনিসুর রহমান সিনহার মুঠোফোনে যোগাযোগ করলেও তিনি সাড়া দেননি।

জানতে চাইলে বিজিএমইএর সভাপতি এস এম মান্নান গতকাল প্রথম আলোকে বলেন, ‘আনিসুর রহমান সিনহা আমাদের তৈরি পোশাকশিল্পের একজন সফল উদ্যোক্তা। পোশাক খাতকে আজকের এই অবস্থানে নিয়ে আসার পেছনে তাঁর অবদান রয়েছে। তাঁর ব্যবসাপ্রতিষ্ঠান আগের মতো ভালো অবস্থানে নেই। বর্তমানে পরিস্থিতিতে সরকার ও বাংলাদেশ ব্যাংকের উচিত তাঁর মতো প্রবীণ উদ্যোক্তাদের পাশে দাঁড়ানো। অপর এক প্রশ্নের জবাবে তিনি বলেন, আমাদের দেশে ব্যবসা থেকে প্রস্থানের জন্য কোনো নীতিমালা নেই। বহুদিন ধরে আমরা এ বিষয়ে নীতিমালার দাবি করছি। ব্যবসায়ীরা সফল হবেন, আবার ব্যর্থ হবেন। ফলে প্রস্থান নীতিমালা না থাকাটা অন্যায়।’

১১০ বিলিয়ন ডলার রপ্তানি আয়ের লক্ষ্য বাংলাদেশের

বাংলাদেশ ২০২৬-২৭ অর্থবছরে রপ্তানি থেকে ১১০ বিলিয়ন ডলার আয় করতে চায়। যা গত অর্থবছরে রেকর্ড করা আয়ের দ্বিগুণ। 

সম্প্রতি রপ্তানি নীতিমালা ২০২৪-২৭-এর খসড়া নীতিগত অনুমোদন দেওয়া হয়। সেখানেই এমন সিদ্ধান্ত নেওয়া হয়।

মন্ত্রিপরিষদ বিভাগের সমন্বয় ও সংস্কার সচিব মাহমুদুল হোসেন খান বলেন, ‘‘এটি এখন অনুমোদনের জন্য মন্ত্রিসভায় রাখা হবে।’’

২০১৫-১৬ অর্থবছরে বাংলাদেশের রপ্তানি আয় দাঁড়িয়েছিল ৫৫ বিলিয়ন ডলারে।

মাহমুদুল হোসেন খান বলেন, ‘‘খসড়া নীতিতে ২০২৬ সালে স্বল্পোন্নত দেশের তালিকা থেকে উন্নীত হওয়ার পরে বাংলাদেশ যে চ্যালেঞ্জের মুখোমুখি হবে তাও তুলে ধরা হয়।’’

তিনি বলেন, ‘‘সর্বোচ্চ অগ্রাধিকার পাওয়া খাতের সম্ভাবনাময় নতুন কিছু পণ্য ও সেবা যেমন- সবজি এবং হস্ত ও কারু পণ্য অন্তর্ভুক্ত করা হয়েছে। বিশেষ উন্নয়নমূলক খাতে স্পিনিং, ফেব্রিক্স, ম্যানুফ্যাকচারিং, ডাইং, প্রিন্টিং অন্তর্ভুক্ত হয়েছে। ওষুধশিল্প ও মেডিকেল ইকুইপমেন্ট অন্তর্ভুক্ত করা হয়েছে। বর্ষ পণ্য হস্তশিল্পকে নতুনভাবে অন্তর্ভুক্ত করা হয়েছে।’’

সচিব বলেন, ‘‘রপ্তানি নিষিদ্ধ পণ্য তালিকা এবং শর্তসাপেক্ষে রপ্তানি পণ্য তালিকা হালনাগাদ ও এইচএস কোডের হেডিংসহ উল্লেখ করা হয়েছে। রপ্তানি-সংক্রান্ত জাতীয় কমিটি, পরিবীক্ষণ ও মূল্যায়ন কমিটি ও রপ্তানি-সংক্রান্ত কারিগরি কমিটি গঠন ও কার্যপরিধি সন্নিবেশিত করা হয়েছে।’’

অর্থনৈতিক উন্নয়নে সরকারের পঞ্চবার্ষিক পরিকল্পনা, রপ্তানি খাতের চাহিদা এবং বিশ্ববাণিজ্য পরিস্থিতি ও প্রেক্ষাপটের সঙ্গে সামঞ্জস্য নীতি প্রণয়নের লক্ষ্যে প্রতি তিন বছর অন্তর রপ্তানি নীতি প্রণয়ন করা হয়। বিদ্যমান রপ্তানি নীতি ২০২১-২০২৪-এর মেয়াদ আগামী ৩০ জুন শেষ হবে। এই ধারাবাহিকতায় রপ্তানি নীতি ২০২৪-২৭ এর খসড়া প্রণয়ন করা হয়েছে।

২০২৩-২৪ অর্থবছরে সরকারের রপ্তানি লক্ষ্যমাত্রা ৬২ বিলিয়ন ডলার।

রপ্তানিকারকরা অর্থবছরের জুলাই-এপ্রিল মাসে ৪৭.৪৭ বিলিয়ন ডলারের পণ্য পাঠিয়েছেন।

Innovations in textile dyeing: the eco-friendly promise of supercritical fluid technology

Roughly 60% of mankind lacks access to clean water assets and climate change imposes a threat to worsen the problem. The textile industry, a major water consumer, faces a formidable challenge due to water scarcity and changing environmental conditions.

Innovations in textile dyeing: the eco-friendly promise of supercritical fluid technology
Courtesy: Collected

Nowadays the garments buying developed countries are demanding eco-friendly textile products. This changed demand is putting pressure on brands and retailers to show that their supply chains are clean and transparent. Governments are also mandating strict environmental legislation and enforcing pollution laws. Despite these efforts, the traditional methods of textile production remain highly water-intensive and energy-consuming.

For instance, in conventional methods, an extensive proportion of 20% or more of water is used solely during the dyeing phase. To dye just one kg of cotton fabric, nearly 100 liters of fresh water and a very high amount of energy are required. To solve this problem the manufacturers are adopting new technologies to remain competitive while reducing water usage to contribute toward greener solutions.

Supercritical fluid dyeing (SFD) technology can help achieve sustainable processes. SFD is a waterless dyeing process that exploits the unique properties of supercritical fluids. A supercritical fluid is maintained at a temperature and pressure above its critical point. It exhibits both the gaseous property of being able to penetrate anything, giving a swelling and plasticizing action and the liquid property of being able to dissolve materials into their components.

Innovations in textile dyeing: the eco-friendly promise of supercritical fluid technology

This phase of a substance enjoys many advantages and can replace the water in the dyeing process. Carbon dioxide (CO2) is particularly attractive as it is cheap, non-flammable, nontoxic, and its critical point (Tc = 31.1 °C, Pc = 73.7 bar) is lower than that of many other fluids.

SFD has come a long way since its inception in the late 1980s. Initially, it was a technology limited to small-scale production and faced significant challenges in dyeing various types of fibers. In its early stages, SFD was primarily compatible with synthetic fibers like polyester but struggled to dye hydrophilic natural fibers such as cotton, wool, and silk due to the non-polar nature of the supercritical carbon dioxide solvent.

Recent advancements have brought about a significant transformation in SFD, making it a feasible choice for large-scale industrial applications. A company called Dyecoo has emerged as a pioneering supplier of industrial equipment and dyes specifically designed for CO2 textile dyeing. Dyecoo’s equipment can accommodate a wide range of synthetic fabrics and yarns. Another notable breakthrough is SUPRAUNO®, a patented sustainable super critical CO2 based dyeing and finishing technology developed by Deven Supercriticals, which enables the dyeing of not only polyester but also various other man-made and natural textiles, such as nylon, aramid, acrylic, viscose, cotton, linen, silk, and their blends. This innovative solution allows for the waterless use of conventional dyes and traditional tri-chrome recipes.

Compared to its early stages, modern SFD technology offers several advantages. It eliminates the need for reduction clearing for polyester, eliminates the use of salt for cotton dyeing, improves overall dye utilization, enables single-bath dyeing of textile blends, and significantly reduces the use of auxiliary chemicals by up to 90%. This not only makes the process more environmentally friendly but also offers economic benefits for larger plants and multi-vessel designs due to higher capacity capabilities.

The advantages SFD offers are:

Bid farewell to water woes

Conventional dyeing and finishing processes consume millions of gallons of water, mostly due to multistep processes that are largely inefficient. Whereas SFD completely replaces water with supercritical CO2 to solvate dye. This results in significant water savings.

A waste water free future

About 17% to 20% of industrial wastewater in the world comes from the textile industry, specifically from dyeing and finishing processes. Addressing these major environmental concerns associated with traditional dyeing processes SFD comes into play. Since water isn’t involved in SFD, it eliminates the generation of aqueous dyeing effluents loaded with chemicals and dyes.

Minimizing chemical footprints

Since SFD utilizes supercritical CO2 as the solvent, there is no need for auxiliary chemicals such as dispersing or levelling agents typically used in traditional dyeing processes. This not only reduces chemical usage but also minimizes the generation of harmful chemical waste.

Innovations in textile dyeing: the eco-friendly promise of supercritical fluid technology

Reuse and recycle: a closed-loop system

In SFD method the supercritical CO2/dye mixture is depressurized, to transform the CO2 into a gas leaving no solvent residues in the fabric. This process effectively separates the dye particles that are not retained in the fibers and can be reused in subsequent dyeing cycles. This innovation addresses the challenge faced by the global textile industry, which uses traditional dyeing methods resulting in approximately 280 kton of textile dyes being dumped annually. Additionally, the CO2 can be recycled and reused creating a completely closed system and an entirely environmentally friendly approach to textile dyeing.

Reduced energy expenditure

The elimination of heating of the dye bath contributes to huge energy savings in SFD method compared to traditional system. In addition, after depressurization, the dyed fabric is extracted dry, eliminating the subsequent rinsing and drying processes which makes it more efficient and environmentally friendly.

Cost-effectiveness

Supercritical CO2 is a relatively low-cost, non-toxic, and non-flammable solvent compared to traditional dyeing chemicals. This makes SFD economically viable and attractive for textile manufacturers seeking cost-effective and sustainable production methods.

Faster production

Supercritical fluid has gas-like low viscosities and diffusion properties, which can lead to shorter dyeing times compared to traditional methods, increasing production efficiency.

Innovations in textile dyeing: the eco-friendly promise of supercritical fluid technology

Improved dye penetration

Supercritical CO2, with its low viscosity and high diffusion properties, acts as an ideal dyeing fluid. It readily dissolves solid dyestuffs and penetrates even the finest pores of fibers without requiring vigorous convection procedures. This enhanced penetration leads to deeper and more vibrant colors, making supercritical fluid dyeing a promising alternative for sustainable and efficient dyeing processes.

The progress made in SFD technology has created opportunities for sustainable and efficient dyeing in different textile sectors, although difficulties persist in dyeing certain high-performance fibers with intricate molecular structures. SFD technology offers compatibility with a wide range of fibers and can be implemented on an industrial scale, making it a promising solution to meet the increasing demand for eco-friendly textile production. However, still textile manufacturers of Bangladesh are hesitant to adopt SFD technology due to the initial high costs, complex equipment requirements, and the challenge of sourcing dyes that can dissolve in supercritical fluid. Despite these obstacles, the advantages of SFD technology, such as environmental benefits and cost savings in production, outweigh the challenges and contribute to its appeal in the textile industry.

Dyecol™ expects substantial growth in Bangladesh amidst strong competition

Dyecol™, a subsidiary of Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd., continues to make strides in the chemical industry with its innovative solutions. Specializing in dyes and colorants, Dyecol™ is known for its commitment to quality, sustainability, and customer satisfaction. With cutting-edge research and development, the company consistently delivers vibrant and eco-friendly products tailored to meet diverse market needs. As a frontrunner in the sector, Dyecol™ remains dedicated to pushing boundaries and setting new standards for excellence.

In an interview with Textile Today Dr. N. N. Mahapatra, Business Head (Dyes), Dyecol™ shared his insights on dyes industry. He is also Consulting Editor of Textile Today.

Dyecol™ expects substantial growth in Bangladesh amidst strong competition
Figure: Dr. N. N. Mahapatra, Business Head (Dyes), Dyecol™.

Textile Today: How do you see the Bangladesh dyes market in the context of India and some other countries?

Dr. N. N. Mahapatra: Currently, we are exporting to the markets of Bangladesh and Turkey. The Bangladesh market is notably larger than the Turkish market. In terms of catering to brands and retailers serving Bangladeshi customers, they prioritize these relationships more than those in India. This preference may be attributed to factors such as quality and cost considerations. In my opinion, Bangladesh surpasses other countries in this regard, making it the top choice. Vietnam follows closely behind in terms of market preference.

Textile Today: So, in the last three months, there is less demand of dyes in global market. How much it affected the dyes manufacturers in India, China and other countries?

Dr. N. N. Mahapatra: In the dye markets, manufacturing levels naturally fluctuate depending on demand. External factors such as global conflicts, such as the conflict between Gaza and Israel and the Russian war against Ukraine, have certainly had an impact. Currently, no dyeing unit is operating at full capacity; most are running at around 70-80 percent capacity. Last year, the situation was even more subdued. However, there seems to be a noticeable improvement across the board, not just in Bangladesh but also in India. I anticipate that 2024 will be the optimal time for the dye market in terms of capacity utilization and production.

Textile Today: How many months do you think the demand will increase in the dyes market?

Dr. N. N. Mahapatra: I anticipate a pickup in the market after June of this year (2024). We expect an increase in requirements and higher demand. Consequently, I believe the overall global market will also see improvement.

Textile Today: Do you have any new plans of DyeCol in Bangladesh market, how do you think the Shree Pushkar Chemicals can grow in the Bangladesh market in the next coming 5 years?

Dr. N. N. Mahapatra: We have high expectations for the Bangladesh market. We entered this market for the first time in 2018, and since then, six years have passed. In this timeframe, our growth compares favorably to competitors who have been in the market for 20-25 years. Despite being newcomers, our total backward integration as a company gives us a significant advantage. We handle the entire raw material production process for reactive dyes in our factory, followed by the manufacturing of these dyes. Considering our cost-effectiveness, we see tremendous potential and opportunities in the Bangladesh market.

Textile Today: Are you happy with the growth of the market?

Dr. N. N. Mahapatra: As compared to the last 6 years, whatever we have achieved, I think that is a good volume. Also, the next 5 years, we are expecting that it will more than double.

Textile Today: You are one of the leading Vinyl Sulfone (VS) manufacturers in India which is the main raw material for the reactive dyes. What advantage will you get in the pricing of reactive dyes in Bangladesh?

Dr. N. N. Mahapatra: Rightly said that Vinyl Sulfone is the major raw material for reactive dyes. And we are now the largest manufacturer of VS dyes raw material in India. We are manufacturing about 900-1000 tons a month. So, we are one of the leading Vinyl Sulfone manufacturers in India. Also, besides that specialty in our Vinyl Sulfone is that it has a different root of manufacturing which gives us the least PCA (para chloro aniline) content. Which in the powder form is less than 50 ppm and if you dye on the fabric, it is less than 5 ppm that is non-detectable.

PCA, or para-chloroaniline, is a banned amine, and currently, all brands and retailers prioritize low PCA levels in dyed fabrics. One advantage we possess in manufacturing our Vinyl Sulfone dyes is evident in our blacks and navys, where the PCA content is significantly lower compared to our competitors. This stands as a distinct advantage of DyeCol dyes in the Bangladesh market.

Textile Today: Do you have specific plans for your competitors in Bangladesh?

Dr. N. N. Mahapatra: As mentioned earlier, maintaining low PCA levels gives us a competitive edge due to differences in our manufacturing facilities compared to our competitors. Additionally, within the next three months, we are expanding our production capacity for reactive dyes by adding another 600 tons to our current 400 tons, resulting in a total of 1000 tons per month. In the new unit, we will exclusively produce black and navy dyes, while the old unit will focus on reds, yellows, and blues. Our batch size will be 32 tons, the largest in India and globally. This increase in production capacity will make our black and navy dyes highly cost-effective, with minimal batch-to-batch and lot-to-lot variations, currently at only 10-10 tons. These improvements are poised to have a significant impact on the Bangladesh market. Therefore, I believe that within the next five years, Shree Pushkar will achieve a substantial sales volume in Bangladesh.

Textile Today: How do you position your company as a zero waste manufacturing company?

Dr. N. N. Mahapatra: We proudly define ourselves as a zero-waste manufacturing company because during the production of dye intermediates, we generate a significant amount of by-products known as spent acid. This mixture contains both organic and inorganic acids and is highly toxic. However, we undertake a purification process to reuse this acid in the production of fertilizers, primarily super phosphate fertilizer. This commitment to recycling and reusing materials distinguishes us from our competitors, as not all of them have such facilities. We take pride in declaring that Pushakr is a zero-waste manufacturing company. We ensure that nothing is discharged from our factory, and all our by-products are efficiently reused.

দেশে নতুন বিনিয়োগ: সৃষ্টি হবে দুই লাখ কর্মসংস্থান

বাংলাদেশ বিনিয়োগ উন্নয়ন কর্তৃপক্ষের (বিডা) আওতায় এ বছরের জানুয়ারি-মার্চ পর্যন্ত মোট ৩০২টি শিল্প প্রতিষ্ঠান নিবন্ধিত হয়েছে। এর মধ্যে ২৭০টিতে স্থানীয়, ১৮টিতে শতভাগ বিদেশি এবং ১৪টিতে যৌথ বিনিয়োগ রয়েছে। প্রতিষ্ঠানগুলোতে প্রস্তাবিত মোট বিনিয়োগের পরিমাণ ৩ লাখ ৩৮ হাজার ৬২ মিলিয়ন টাকা। এসব বিনিয়োগ দেশে মোট ২ লাখ ২২ হাজার ৮৬৬টি নতুন কর্মসংস্থান সৃষ্টি করবে।

গণমাধ্যমে পাঠানো এক সংবাদ বিজ্ঞপ্তিতে এসব তথ্য জানিয়েছে বিডা।

স্থানীয় বিনিয়োগ প্রস্তাব

স্থানীয় শিল্পখাতে প্রস্তাবিত মোট বিনিয়োগ ১ লাখ ৭৬ হাজার ৩৬৯ মিলিয়ন টাকার মধ্যে কৃষি শিল্পখাতে সর্বাধিক ৪০ হাজার ২৭৪ মিলিয়ন টাকা, পোশাক শিল্পে ৩৭ হাজার ৬৫৩ মিলিয়ন টাকা, রাসায়নিক শিল্পে ৩১ হাজার ১৭০ মিলিয়ন টাকা, প্রকৌশল শিল্পখাতে ২৩ হাজার ৪২৯ মিলিয়ন টাকা এবং মুদ্রণ ও প্রকাশনা শিল্পখাতে ১৯ হাজার ৯৩৩ মিলিয়ন টাকার বিনিয়োগ প্রস্তাব পাওয়া গেছে। প্রস্তাবিত এ বিনিয়োগের মাধ্যমে মোট ২ লাখ ১৮ হাজার ১৩১ জন মানুষের কর্মসংস্থানের সম্ভাবনা তৈরি হয়েছে।

বিদেশি বিনিয়োগ প্রস্তাব

বৈদেশিক শিল্পখাতে প্রস্তাবিত মোট বিনিয়োগ ১ লাখ ৬১ হাজার ৬৯৩ মিলিয়ন টাকার মধ্যে প্রকৌশল শিল্পখাতে সর্বাধিক ১ লাখ ৩৬ হাজার ২০৭ মিলিয়ন টাকা। এছাড়া সেবা শিল্পখাতে ১৬ হাজার ৪৫৮ মিলিয়ন টাকা, রাসায়নিক শিল্পখাতে ৪ হাজার ১৩৬ মিলিয়ন টাকা, পোশাক শিল্পখাতে ৩ হাজার ৯৫২ মিলিয়ন টাকা এবং ট্যানারি ও চামড়া শিল্পখাতে ৪৮৭ মিলিয়ন টাকার বিনিয়োগ প্রস্তাব পাওয়া গেছে। প্রস্তাবিত এই বিনিয়োগ মোট ৪ হাজার ৭৩৫ জন মানুষের কর্মসংস্থানের সুযোগ সৃষ্টি করবে।

Club de Fashionista begins journey towards fashion & innovation

The fashion enthusiasts of Dhaka witnessed a dazzling event as Club de Fashionista (CDF) was grandly launched at The Zabeer Dhaka. The event, graced by eminent personalities from various sectors, marked the beginning of an exciting journey in the world of fashion and innovation.

Club de Fashionista begins journey towards fashion & innovation
Figure: Club de Fashionista inauguration ceremony

With a dynamic lineup of activities and a vision for the future, Club de Fashionista is poised to become a prominent hub for fashion enthusiasts, athletes, and professionals alike.

The founder of CDF, Engr. S M Jabead, welcomed guests and participants, setting the tone for an evening filled with style and creativity. Chief Guest Shamshad Qumer, Head of Sales & Marketing at Permess, along with Special Guest Nur Muhammad Pintu, Managing Director of Chembond Multitrade, added prestige to the occasion with their presence.

The core team behind CDF comprises seasoned professionals dedicated to shaping the future of fashion in Bangladesh. Engr. Tariqul Islam Mithu assumes the role of Team Manager, with Engr. Rakibul Islam leading the Marketing efforts and Engr. Shahinul Islam Rana managing media relations. Key personnel include Engr. ABS Al-Amin, while Engr. Tanvir Mehedi has been appointed as the Club Mentor, bringing invaluable expertise to the table.

Strategic planning is entrusted to Engr. Md. Ariful Islam, ensuring a clear roadmap for the club’s growth and success. Engr. Abrar Al Fahad takes charge as Team Coordinator, facilitating seamless operations within the organization.

Moreover, the club’s reach extends to campuses, with dedicated ambassadors spreading the fashion fervor across educational institutions.

Also, CDF is set to engage in various activities including:

  1. Sports Activities: CDF recognizes the importance of a healthy lifestyle and aims to promote fitness among its members through sports activities. From friendly matches to organized tournaments, members can expect an array of sporting events to stay active and energized.
  2. CSR Activities: Beyond the realm of fashion, CDF is committed to giving back to the community through various Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) initiatives. Whether it’s organizing charity drives, volunteering for social causes, or supporting underprivileged communities, CDF strives to make a positive impact on society.
  3. Professional Networking: CDF serves as a platform for like-minded professionals to connect, collaborate, and exchange ideas. With a focus on fostering meaningful relationships, the club provides networking opportunities, workshops, and seminars to empower individuals in the fashion industry.

In a notable moment, advisors of the club Engr. Jewel Ashraf and Engr. Mirza Razzak (Raj) were present, adding their expertise to the occasion.

As part of its future plans, CDF aims to onboard sportswear clothing brands, expanding its portfolio and catering to the diverse interests of its members. By partnering with renowned brands, the club seeks to offer premium quality sportswear options, further enhancing the fashion experience for its members.

It is time to pay attention to the heat stress of RMG factory workers

RMG factories, especially in regions with tropical climates like Bangladesh, often lack adequate ventilation and cooling systems. As a result, indoor temperatures can soar to uncomfortable and potentially dangerous levels, particularly during hot and humid seasons. 

The combination of high ambient temperature and the heat generated by machinery and bodies in proximity creates a stifling atmosphere for workers. For the thousands of individuals working in RMG factories, the battle against indoor heat stress is a silent struggle. 

In the midst of the hum of sewing machines and clatter of production lines, workers face soaring temperatures that often exceed their comfort zone. In countries like Bangladesh, where RMG factories are the biggest driver of the economy, the issue of indoor heat stress takes on added significance.

In the Laboratory of Environmental Ergonomics at Hokkaido University, Japan, I delved into a comprehensive study focusing on the prediction and comparison of monthly indoor heat stress in RMG production spaces in Dhaka, Bangladesh. 

This research, which has been published in the international journal Sustainable Cities and Society by Elsevier, deals with the critical issue of heat stress faced by garment factory workers. The study’s main highlights revolve around the analysis of monthly Wet Bulb Globe Temperature (WBGT) and predicted heat strain (PHS) criteria for these workers. 

We scrutinised the entire year’s heat stress prediction criteria, identifying a particularly concerning trend during the months of May to July, where PHS criteria reached alarmingly high levels, sometimes hitting 38°C. This poses significant health risks to the workers. 

Notably, WBGT and PHS showed substantial deviations during peak working conditions, as did the criteria across different exterior walls, orientations, and zones within the factories. These findings underscore the complexity of the heat stress issue and the need for tailored solutions. 

Our field monitoring efforts revealed the harsh reality faced by workers in RMG factories, with excessively hot indoor environments posing serious health risks. Indoor temperatures often soared far beyond the comfort range, adversely affecting workers’ physiological conditions.

Through simulations, we gained insights into the year-round heat stress landscape. The analysis showed that WBGT and PHS frequently exceeded comfortable levels, especially from May to August. These months witnessed indoor temperatures peaking at 36–38°C, heightening the risk factors for workers. 

The study also shed light on the importance of proper cooling systems. Without adequate cooling mechanisms, internal heat becomes excessively high, exacerbating the risk factors for workers. 

Furthermore, our predictions highlighted the varying risk levels across different months and conditions. From March to May, moderate to high levels of PHS were observed, corresponding to significant health risks for workers. 

Conversely, the months of September and October predicted higher WBGT levels, while colder outdoor temperatures kept them lower in January, February, November, and December. 

Our findings also emphasised the crucial role of environmental conditions in workers’ comfort and health. When indoor air temperatures (AT) ranged from 26.6°C to 29.3°C, workers experienced discomfort but were not at significant health risk. 

However, prolonged exposure to temperatures from 29.3°C to 38°C posed lasting health risks. The study underscores the urgency of addressing indoor heat stress in RMG factories. By understanding and implementing our findings, architects and engineers can contribute to the design of safer, more energy-efficient factory spaces, safeguarding the well-being of the workers who power this vital industry.

Considering heat stress for garment workers is crucial for several reasons:

Health risks: Excessive heat exposure can lead to heat-related illnesses such as heat exhaustion, heatstroke, and dehydration. Garment workers, often labouring in hot and humid conditions, are particularly vulnerable to these health risks, which can have severe consequences, including fatalities.

Productivity and quality: High temperatures can impair cognitive function, physical performance, and concentration, leading to decreased productivity and potentially compromising the quality of work. In the garment industry, where precision and attention to detail are paramount, any decline in worker performance can impact product quality and overall efficiency.

Workers’ well-being: Beyond the immediate health risks, prolonged exposure to high temperatures can negatively impact workers’ overall well-being and quality of life. Enduring uncomfortable working conditions day in and day out can lead to stress, fatigue, and decreased job satisfaction among garment workers.

Legal and ethical responsibilities: Employers have a legal and ethical obligation to ensure the safety and well-being of their workers. Failing to address heat stress in the workplace not only violates labour laws and regulations but also undermines the ethical responsibility to protect workers from harm.

Social and economic implications: Heat stress disproportionately affects vulnerable populations, including low-income workers in developing countries like Bangladesh, where the garment industry is a significant contributor to the economy. Addressing heat stress not only protects individual workers but also contributes to broader social and economic stability.

Several initiatives have been undertaken to predict and address heat stress for garment workers in Bangladesh. One notable effort is the collaboration between research institutions, governmental bodies, non-governmental organisations (NGOs), and industry stakeholders to develop heat stress prediction models and mitigation strategies tailored to the local context. 

Research institutions such as universities and environmental organisations should conduct studies to understand the factors contributing to indoor heat stress in garment factories. 

These studies often involve field measurements, data analysis, and simulation models to predict heat stress levels under different conditions. Government agencies, especially the Ministry of Labour and Employment, need to recognise the importance of addressing heat stress in the workplace. They can introduce regulations and guidelines to ensure that factories provide adequate ventilation, cooling systems, and rest breaks for workers during hot weather conditions. 

NGOs and international organisations have also played a crucial role in raising awareness about heat stress and advocating for the rights of garment workers. They provide training programmes, educational materials, and support services to help workers recognise the signs of heat stress and take preventive measures. 

Industry stakeholders, including factory owners, trade unions, and international apparel brands, can share interest in addressing heat stress to protect the health and well-being of workers. 

Nowadays, many factories are trying to implement heat stress management programmes, including heat monitoring, worker training, and infrastructure improvements. Overall, these initiatives aim to improve working conditions, reduce health risks, and enhance productivity in Bangladesh’s garment industry. 

By collaborating across sectors and implementing evidence-based interventions, stakeholders can create safer and more sustainable workplaces for garment workers. In summary, considering heat stress for garment workers is essential for safeguarding their health, ensuring productivity and quality, promoting worker well-being, fulfilling legal and ethical obligations, and fostering social and economic development.

Dr Sajal Chowdhury. Sketch: Courtesy

Dr Sajal Chowdhury. Sketch: Courtesy

Addressing indoor heat stress in RMG factories requires a multifaceted approach. Improving ventilation and cooling systems, implementing heat mitigation strategies such as providing access to shaded areas and cool drinking water, and enforcing regulations on working hours and breaks are critical steps. 

Furthermore, raising awareness among workers about the signs and symptoms of heat stress and empowering them to advocate for their rights is essential.

[Dr Sajal Chowdhury is an architect, educator at the Department of Architecture, CUET and a researcher focusing on Environmental Experience Design, Architectural Science and Well-being. sajal_c@cuet.ac.bd.]

RMG BANGLADESH NEWS