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Bangladesh a global inspiration for leading green garment factories: US body

Bangladesh has turned into a major source of inspiration globally as it’s currently a leader in the green garment factories worldwide, said a top official of the United States Green Building Council (USGBC).

“Bangladesh’s achievement in the green building segment is not only well discussed in Southeast Asia and South Asia, but also well discussed western world,” Santanu Dutta Gupta, faculty and associate director of USGBC, the certification authority of the Leadership in Energy and Environment Design (LEED).

He was handing over the certification at an event in the capital today to Bangladeshi garment factory SM Sourcing Ltd, which climbed to the top of the global Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Factory ranking, achieving a score of 106 out of a possible 110.

“Bangladesh’s achievements in the green building segment are not only well discussed in Southeast Asia and South Asia but also in the western world,” Gupta said while handing over the certificate to SM Sourcing.

SM Sourcing, located in Gazipur, was formed in 2013. Mirza Shams Mahmud Shakti, the company’s chief executive officer, started the company with a buying house and in 2017, he started setting up a factory, Gupta mentioned.

He further said the SM Sourcing CEO now has three projects and employs 5,000 workers, 900 of whom work at the SM Sourcing.

The monthly turnover of his company is $6 million and annually $70-$72 million, Gupta said, adding that SM Sourcing also has a customers’ base in the USA and Europe.

Gupta remarked that Shakti transformed his factory into a green factory for the betterment of the workers.

With Bangladesh becoming the global champion in green garment factories, global buyers are now placing high volumes of work orders in Bangladesh, shifting from other countries, he noted.

Ananta Ahmed, International Green Building Expert, USGBC Faculty and the Principal LEED Consultant of 360 TSL, said, “The LEED is not just a certificate. It is the most effective business management system if we understand and follow. Benefits are very high and should not be ignored.

“If we understand LEED Green Building concepts in a factual way, cost is not an issue, and if we analyse the costs and benefits in a meaningful way, we will find that LEED green building costs are lower than those of regular buildings,” he added.

Bangladesh currently has 209 green factories. Of them, 79 are platinum, 116 gold, 10 silver and the rest are only green certified.

Not only in number, but also the world’s highest rated green building S M Sourcing with 106 out of 110 points, is also located in Bangladesh.

Bangladesh is also the leader in green garment factories as there are 54 out of the top 100 green and 18 of the top 20 LEED green factories are located in the country.

BGMEA polls: Sammilito Parishad announces manifesto

The Sammilito Parishad, a panel participating in the biennial polls of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), today (25 February) announced its election manifesto, committing to develop a smart garment sector, if they are elected in the polls scheduled to be held on 9 March in Dhaka and Chattogram.

Md Siddiqur Rahman, chief election coordinator of the Sammilito Parishad for the 2024-26 tenure, announced the manifesto at a press conference held at the Sonargaon Hotel in Dhaka.

Rahman, also a former BGMEA president, introduced 35 panel members of the Parishad at the event.

The panel will work for the continuation of the duty benefit to major markets even after the graduation of the country to a developing nation from the Least Developed Country (LDC) by 2026 and also work for obtaining the GSP Plus status in the European Union.

The Parishad also pledged for developing and facilitating the growth of small and medium enterprises in the garment sector for a sustainable garment trade.

The panel will also work for bringing bank interest rates at single digit and for introducing a special exchange rate of dollar for the garment exporters.

They vowed to create opportunity by easing the access to finance and developing the skilled human resources.

They will also work to simplify the complexities to introduce new Harmonised System (HS) code for product diversification and to ease the business of garment both in export and import of raw materials.

The panel leader also committed to working with the government for introducing a special incentive for inspiring the garment entrepreneurs in using non-cotton fibre in garment making aiming to diversify the export products in the garment segment.

They will lobby with the government for duty free import of solar panels and related equipment for promoting the use of renewable energy aiming to reduce the carbon emission.

The panel will also work for innovation and design development to update the member garment factories, the panel leader also said.

They will work for market and product diversification and searching new markets.

According to the manifesto, they want an additional 1% cash incentive on export receipt. Currently, they receive 3% cash incentive for the new markets as the government reduced 1% from 4% this month.

The manifesto also said they will create a circular fashion guideline and green garment fashion industry if they are elected.

They also committed for skill development for the mid-level officials, introducing cash incentive and policy supports for the backward linkage industries like long-term tax holiday for the man-made fibre and recycled fibre industry.

They will also work for a unified code of conduct for maintaining social, labour and safety compliance audits, the manifesto also said.

They committed to work for stopping the harassment on obtaining certification from the RMG Sustainability Council (RSC), especially reducing the procrastination in obtaining certification from the RSC, the building design approval and establishing transparency in implementation of the corrective action plan in the garment sector.

SM Mannan (Kochi), the panel leader of the Sammilito Parishad, called for working together in the global crisis period so the sector can become sustainable. This is why he inducted young and fresh blood in his panel along with a number of experienced leaders, he said.

Usually, two panels including the Sammilito Parishad and the Forum Panel contest in the BGMEA election. The Forum Panel is scheduled to announce its manifesto on 26 February.

11 institutions to be recognised for contribution to textile sector: Textiles minister

Eleven organisations will be recognised for their contribution to the country’s textile sector, Minister of Textiles and Jute Jahangir Kabir Nanak said today (25 February).

In a press conference at the ministry in the Secretariat, he said the honours will be given on the occasion of the National Textile Day, under the theme “A country rich in smart textiles – Bangabandhu’s Bangladesh”. 

The minister said the main programme will be held at the Bangabandhu International Conference Center (BICC) on 27 February. 

President Mohammed Shahabuddin will inaugurate the event as the chief guest. 

Nanak said this sector is the main foreign exchange earning sector of the country’s economy. 

“In addition to keeping the development of the sector dynamic in coordination with the stakeholders, the Department of Textiles is providing all the services of the sponsoring authorities at the fastest possible time through one-stop service,” he added.

Secretary to the  Ministry of Textiles and Jute Abdur Rouf, Director General of the Department of Textiles Md Nuruzzaman and senior officials of the ministry were present, among others.

Workers stage protest at Magpie Group MD’s residence over arrears

Workers from Magpie Knitwear, a sweater factory, staged a protest at the residence of the company’s Managing Director Majumder Arifur Rahman, demanding unpaid wages and factory reopening.

The protest, which reportedly began on Friday evening in Dhaka’s Uttara and continued through Saturday, comes amidst the owner’s active campaigning for a leadership position within the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

Workers claimed that the factory announced the closure on 4 January without paying four months due.

BGMEA officials on condition of anonymity, confirmed that the workers received a single month’s payment on Thursday from the Magpie Group despite being owed four months’ wages.

Attempts to reach Arifur Rahman and his father, Habibur Rahman, the company founder, for comment were unsuccessful.

The presence of a large number of workers at the protest site was confirmed by Uttara West Police Station Officer-in-Charge Abul Hasan at 8pm today.

The officer added that similar protests have occurred previously and said BGMEA is trying to intervene and resolve the issue.

Meanwhile, BGMEA President Faruque Hassan acknowledged the company’s past issues with worker protests and expressed limited knowledge about the current situation.

He assured that BGMEA would attempt to find a solution once details are clarified.

Skill development, welfare of women RMG workers stressed

A comprehensive strategy is essential to create a resilient and equitable environment for women workers in the country’s apparel sector, and ensure their well-being and rights amidst evolving economic and technological landscapes, stakeholders have said.

They said to ensure sustainable growth in the industry, there must be a concerted effort to enhance the productivity and well-being of workers. This entails a focus on improving the health of women workers, promoting financial inclusion, and facilitating skills development to align with the industry’s changing landscape. 

The observations were made during a dialogue, “Embracing Wellbeing: Nurturing the Future of Apparel Workers in the Industry,” attended by the stakeholders of the garment sector on Thursday.

Management consulting firm Lightcastle Partners, in collaboration with Policy Exchange of Bangladesh, organised the dialogue at a hotel in the capital’s Gulshan. 

In his speech, Md Selim Hossen, deputy secretary of the commerce ministry, highlighted the strategic necessity of ensuring the well-being of women workers in the apparel sector for sustainable growth.

M Masrur Reaz, chairman and CEO of Policy Exchange Bangladesh; Zahedul Amin, co-founder and director of Lightcastle Partners; Faisal Bin Seraj, country representative of the Asia Foundation; Ainee Islam, director of Programme Development of The Asia Foundation; Syed Abdul Hamid, Professor of Institute of Health Economics of Dhaka University; Mehruna Islam Chowdhury, Business and Human Rights Specialist of UNDP Bangladesh; Asif Ibrahim, vice chairman of New Age Group; Md Fazlul Hoque, managing director of Plummy Fashion; Ferdaus Ara Begum, CEO of Business Initiative Leading Development, among others, also spoke at the event.                   

They acknowledged that some factory owners and stakeholders have commendably undertaken initiatives for the welfare of women workers at their own expense. 

However, citing a report titled “Threads of Progress: A Comprehensive Landscape Study of the Apparel Industry and the Future of Women Workers” published by LightCastle Partners in collaboration with Policy Exchange, they pointed out that a significant portion of owners has not been proactive in taking initiatives to enhance the well-being of the workers.

Samiha Anwar, business consultant of LightCastle Partners, was the key moderator.  

The event was held as part of Bunon 2030 project titled “Oporajita: Collective Impact on Future of Work,” which is funded by the H&M Foundation with the support of The Asia Foundation.

Based on data from the Export Promotion Bureau in 2023, the apparel sector contributes to a significant 84.5% of the country’s exports, and employing around 49 lakh workers, with 60% of them being women.

RMG accessories makers demand end to ‘customs harassment’ over HS code

Readymade garment accessories manufacturers have demanded an end to “harassment by customs officials” at ports over the determination of HS code (product identification code) for raw material imports.

Leaders of the Bangladesh Garment Accessories and Packaging Manufacturers and Exporters Association raised the demand at a pre-budget meeting with the National Board of Revenue (NBR) in the capital’s Agargaon on Thursday.

HS code is the harmonised commodity description and coding system, also known as the harmonised system of tariff nomenclature is an internationally standardised system of names and numbers to classify traded products. The NBR collects import tax on the basis of the code.

The RMG accessories makers urged the NBR to take necessary steps to stop the harassment of the importers.

“There is harassment over HS code. If raw materials are imported under a similar HS code to those mentioned in our licence, it is not being accepted [by the customs authorities]. We are to face various kinds of fines and harassment,” Rafez Alam Chowdhury, former president of RMG accessories makers’ association, said at that meeting.

He said, “In a clarification issued in 2023, the NBR had said that if there is any error in the last four digits, it will not be considered a false declaration. And it will be assumed that it was done unintentionally.”

“If a customs officer wants, he can impose a fine of up to four times the amount. Since the adjudicator can do so at his own discretion, this needs to be resolved.” Rafez Alam Chowdhury Former president, Bangladesh Garment Accessories and Packaging Manufacturers and Exporters Association

Rafez Alam also said, “However, if a customs officer wants, he can impose a fine of up to four times the amount. Since the adjudicator can do so at his own discretion, this needs to be resolved.”

He said at present, they are unable to remain competitive in business by importing raw materials after paying customs duty and VAT. “Many are being forced to leave the business. We’re suffering too much.”

Businessmen have been complaining of widespread harassment over HS code issues for the past few years. On the other hand, customs officials say they are now paying more attention to it to prevent mis-declaration.

The association also called for a ban on the import of accessories and packaging materials under bond (duty-free benefits), stating that “the country’s garment accessories factories are now able to supply almost 100% of the accessories used in exports.”

It demanded that the authorities grant entitlement or utility declaration for the import of raw materials to its members to be given to the organisation, in line with the views of two garment sector associations. This is currently being done by the Customs Bond Commissionerate, the RMG accessories manufacturers’ association said.

Rafez Alam said, “Instructions were issued from the ministry to give us utility permission. But due to the complexity, it has not yet been implemented,” he said. It can be started as a pilot project, if necessary, he suggested.

Other demands that were placed at the meeting were: timely completion of bond audits and allowing imported goods to be cleared from the port without a bank guarantee in case of failure; keeping export-oriented manufacturers outside the purview of VAT; reducing the export tax by one-fourth (from the existing 1% to 0.25%) for the next five years; and increasing the tax-free income limit for individual taxpayers from the existing Tk3.5 lakh to Tk4 lakh.

Calling for a three-year term for bond licences like the garment sector, the association said there seems to be two rules in the country as one party (garment sector) can import as they wish, and the other group cannot.

At the end of the meeting, the NBR chairman said, “We want to support, but we have to make sure that it is not misused.”

Meanwhile, the Bangladesh Furniture Industries Owners Association and the Bangladesh Society for the Change and Advocacy Nexus (B-scan) also placed their various demands to the NBR at the meeting.

RMG exports to EU up 1.32% in Jul-Jan

Bangladesh’s ready-made garment (RMG) export to the European Union (EU) reached $13.92 billion during the July-January period of the current fiscal year with a growth of 1.32% compared to the same period of the previous fiscal year, according to the latest data from the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB).

RMG exports to Spain, France, the Netherlands and Poland showed 6.05%, 4.25%, 11.77% and 20.30% growth, respectively, reports BSS.

According to EPB data, Bangladesh exported apparel items worth $28.36 billion in July-January of FY24, marking a 3.45% year-on-year growth, compared to the same period of FY23.

However, apparel exports to the USA witnessed a 3.90% drop, reaching $4.79 billion in the first seven months of FY24. Also, exports to Italy dropped by 1.81% and to Germany, the largest export market of Bangladesh in the EU, dropped by 13.46%, fetching $3.51 billion in the July-January period of FY24, data shows. 

At the same time, the country’s exports to the UK and Canada reached $3.31 billion and $871.27 million, respectively, during these seven months of FY24 with a growth of 12.98% and 0.68%.

Exports to non-traditional markets rise by 11.69%

During the July-January period of FY24, apparel exports to non-traditional markets grew by 11.69% to $5.46 billion from $4.89 billion in the corresponding period of the previous year.

Among the major non-traditional markets, exports to Japan, Australia, South Korea and Russia increased by 8.74%, 23%, 17.57% and 26.01%, respectively.

However, the apparel exports to India declined by 21.86%.

RMG exporters optimistic 

Exporters attributed the decline in exports to the USA and German markets to decreased demand amid inflation, yet they remain optimistic about growth, citing the anticipated economic recovery in both countries.

BGMEA President Faruque Hassan told TBS, “Although global apparel demand is sluggish, we are faring better than other exporting nations.”

He expressed optimism that 2024 would be a productive year for business, citing the recovery of apparel-importer countries as inflation rates started to drop.

Faruque Hassan also acknowledged the role of non-traditional markets such as Japan, Australia, South Korea and Russia in sustaining the overall growth.

Glamour Dresses Limited awarded champion in ESSAB Safety Excellence Award 2024

Glamour Dresses Limited has been awarded as the champion by the ESSAB for proper implementation and maintenance of fire safety.

Glamour Dresses Limited, the newest concern of Textown Group received the Electronic Safety and Security Association of Bangladesh (ESSAB) Safety Excellence Award 2024 – “Champion” (1st Place) at the 9th International Fire, Safety and Security Expo 2024 organised by ESSAB, in Industrial Building (RMG & Textile) category.

Minister of Home Affairs Asaduzzaman Khan M.P was the chief guest of the award ceremony held at Bangabandhu International Conference Centre (BICC).

ABM Sakkaf and Rafia Anowar, directors of Glamour Dresses Limited accepted the award and safety certificate from the Honorable Minister.

Glamour Dresses Limited is a state-of-the-art building where sustainability and safety aspects have been considered for the far future. In the event of a fire, evacuation of 5000 people can be completed in less than one minute. 

Furthermore, the LPG room has been placed outside the factory premises with all the necessary controls so that in the event of an accident no harm is caused to the employees or the factory.

Glamour Dresses Limited ensures that when it comes to safety, there shall be no compromise of any kind and now this tremendous effort has been awarded for excellence in the field of fire safety while Glamour Dresses Limited is the flag-bearer of this accomplishment.

RMG industry needs bright minds to lead the future: PUMA country manager

Bangladesh needs exceptionally bright minds who will lead in the future to reduce the huge gap between the skills produced by educational institutes and the demand by the industries, said Moyeen Hyder Chowdhury, country manager at PUMA Bangladesh.

He made the observation in the second session of motivational public speaking event “INSPIRATION”. It was organised by Textile Focus on Saturday at Intertek Bangladesh office in the capital.

Rakibul Islam Khan, managing director, Pakiza Knit Group, said textile engineers have huge job opportunities in the supply chain. “The industry ultimately saves resources when textile graduates lead the supply chain.”

Cotton Group Director Mayeesha Mahmud said the country’s RMG sector aspires to become a leader in sustainable manufacturing and the industry is preparing itself for the next growth phase.

She said more skilled, dynamic textile graduates are needed in textile and RMG companies to achieve sustainable growth.

Among others, Kyaw Sein Thay Dolly, managing director, Cloths R Us; AKM Saifur Rahman Forhad, managing partner, WIKITEX-BD; Sakin Burc, CEO, Queentex Kimya; also spoke at the event.

The event technology partner Yonghao Machinery presented their technology and how that is helping the industry. Innovation partner SIP Italy presented their innovation in sewing technologies, especially in the denim industry.

More than 100 participants from different factories, corporate houses, and universities joined the event.

Single month RMG export hits historic high

Bangladesh made the highest amount of garment shipment in a single month in January riding on the rebounding global economy and revival of the export.

In fact, January 2024 stands unique for its highest export turnover in a single month in the country’s history, according to Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

The country shipped $4.97 billion worth of garments in January, posting a 12.45 percent year-on-year growth, according to data from the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) compiled by the BGMEA.

After a depressive October-December quarter of 2023, the export growth curve has taken a positive shift.

In January, knitwear export grew by 17.32 percent year-on-year while woven rebounded by posting a 7.16 percent growth.

“This is a huge milestone and the reflection of our continued expansion, BGMEA President Faruque Hassan said in a statement.

“This is also a reflection of how we are diversifying our product and market base, and moving up in the ladder of value addition.”

“We have seen retail sales growth in our major markets where the figures of the USA and the UK markets hit records during holiday seasons last year,” the BGMEA chief also said.

Hassan said the burden of excess inventory at the buyers’ end is now relaxed and new orders are expected to come.

The pressure on major economies caused by high inflation and interest rate is also getting reduced, Hassan said.

Therefore, it is expected that 2024 will be a year of come back in terms of trade and growth.

“However, we should not be overwhelmed by the instant response of the market.”

“Particularly we need to be careful while planning new capacity and expansion, cause we cannot add more vulnerability to our existing overcapacity situation. So, quality investment, especially in backward linkage will be crucial for us for the next 5 years,” Hassan said.

RMG BANGLADESH NEWS