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পোশাক খাতের উন্নয়নে ইইউকে সহযোগিতা অব্যাহত রাখার আহ্বান বিজিএমইএর

পোশাকখাতের উন্নয়নে ইউরোপীয় ইউনিয়নকে (ইইউ) সহযোগিতা অব্যাহত রাখার আহ্বান জানিয়েছেন বাংলাদেশ পোশাক প্রস্তুতকারক ও রপ্তানিকারক সমিতির (বিজিএমইএ) সভাপতি এস এম মান্নান কচি।

বিজিএমইএর কমপ্লেক্সে অনুষ্ঠিত এক বৈঠকে তিনি এ আহ্বান জানান। এর আগে ইইউ, ডেনমার্ক, জার্মানি, নেদারল্যান্ডস, সুইডেন, স্পেন এবং ইতালির রাষ্ট্রদূত ও প্রতিনিধিদের সমন্বয়ে উচ্চ পর্যায়ের প্রতিনিধিদল বিজিএমইএ সভাপতির সঙ্গে সৌজন্য সাক্ষাৎ করে।

বৈঠকে বিজিএমইএ সভাপতি বাংলাদেশের তৈরি পোশাক শিল্পের বিভিন্ন দিকগুলো বিশেষ করে, সম্প্রতি কর্মক্ষেত্রে নিরাপত্তা এবং শ্রমিকদের কল্যাণ নিশ্চিতে বিভিন্ন ক্ষেত্রে শিল্পের অর্জনগুলো তুলে ধরেন।

এসময় তিনি ইইউকে বাংলাদেশের তৈরি পোশাক শিল্পে সহযোগিতা প্রদান অব্যাহত রাখা বিশেষ করে, চলমান এভরিথিং বাট আর্মস (ইবিএ) স্কিম থেকে জিএসপি প্লাসে উত্তরণের সময়কাল বৃদ্ধি করে বাংলাদেশকে সহযোগিতা প্রদানের অনুরোধ জানান।

বিজিএমইএ সভাপতি বলেন, স্বল্পোন্নত দেশ (এলডিসি) ক্যাটাগরি থেকে উত্তরণের পরও বাংলাদেশ যাতে তার অর্থনৈতিক প্রবৃদ্ধি ধরে রাখতে পারে, তা নিশ্চিত করার জন্য এই সম্প্রসারণ অত্যন্ত গুরুত্বপূর্ণ।

এছাড়া তিনি ডিউ ডিলিজেন্স ডিরেকটিভ ও অন্যান্য আসন্ন প্রটোকলগুলো অনুসরণ করার ক্ষেত্রে শিল্পের সক্ষমতা বৃদ্ধি করার জন্য ইইউ-এর সহযোগিতা কামনা করেন।

বৈঠকে বাংলাদেশে ইইউ-এর প্রতিনিধিদলের প্রধান ও রাষ্ট্রদূত চার্লস হোয়াইটলি, ডেনমার্কের রাষ্ট্রদূত ক্রিশ্চিয়ান ব্রিকস মোলার, জার্মানির রাষ্ট্রদূত আচিম ট্রস্টার, ইতালির রাষ্ট্রদূত আন্তোনিও আলেসান্দো, সুইডেনের রাষ্ট্রদূত আলেকজান্দ্রা বার্গ ভন লিন্ডে, নেদারল্যান্ডস দূতাবাসের চার্জ ডি’অ্যাফেয়ার্স থিজস ওয়াউডস্ট্রা, স্প্যানিশ দূতাবাসের কমার্শিয়াল অ্যাটাশে এসথার পেরেজ তাহোসেস ও বাংলাদেশে ইইউ প্রতিনিধিদলের বাণিজ্য উপদেষ্টা আবু সৈয়দ বেলাল উপস্থিত ছিলেন।

Decathlon invests in textile recycling startup Recyc’Elit

Sports goods retailer Decathlon has announced that it will invest a sum of money through its Decathlon Alliances structure in startup Recyc’Elit.

Recyc’Elit was established in 2019 in the Lyon region of France created a method for recycling complex polyester-based materials by sorting the fibers. The industrialization of this innovation is the next stage.

Decathlon invests in textile recycling startup Recyc’Elit
Courtesy: Collected.

Recycl’Elit plans to build its prototype by 2025. “The process of recycling complex textiles such as polyester and mixing it with other fibers is a priority for Decathlon, and Recyc’Elit is a trusted partner for developing recycled products from textile waste,” reads a release.

To “maintain its competitive edge while participating in the textile recycling value chain,” Decathlon intends to buy recycled polyester from the company in the long run.

A long-term business relationship has been formed, according to Decathlon, and it will include “the creation of a value chain with Recyc’Elit and all committed partners wishing to become involved in this process,” besides the production of capsule collections.

In October 2023, the start-up was granted €3.2 million by Demeter via the Crédit Agricole Création, business angels, the Fonds d’Amorçage Industriel Métropolitain (FAIM) Lyon – Saint Etienne, Banque des Territoires, and the French government on behalf of France 2030.

In terms of sustainability, Barbara Martin Coppola, CEO of Decathlon highlighted in her “North Star” business plan, which was revealed in March.

It also entails a redesigned shop layout, a more condensed portfolio of its brands, and a new visual identity.

The chain, which has 1,700 stores, brought in €15.6 billion in sales globally in 2023 (+1.15 percent) and made €931 million in net profit (+0.9 percent).

EPZ investors may lose duty-free benefits for machinery, vehicles imports

This move aims to create a level playing field with investors outside the zones and curb the misuse of these facilities, said NBR sources closely involved in fiscal policy-making.

Workers at a factory in the Korean Export Processing Zone (KEPZ). File Photo: TBS

Workers at a factory in the Korean Export Processing Zone (KEPZ). File Photo: TBS

The National Board of Revenue (NBR) is considering levying duties on the imports of capital machinery, vehicles, and furniture by investors in Export Processing Zones (EPZs) and hi-tech parks who have been enjoying duty-free benefits for decades.

This move aims to create a level playing field with investors outside the zones and curb the misuse of these facilities, said NBR sources closely involved in fiscal policy-making.

The revenue authority is also planning to raise duties on spare parts imported by investors in EPZs and hi-tech parks, especially those parts that are already being manufactured locally.

“We aim to align import duties for investors both within and outside the EPZs. To achieve this, the NBR may impose duties on machinery imports currently enjoying duty-free benefits,” an NBR official told TBS on condition of anonymity.

“We are considering raising import taxes on certain equipment and spare parts that currently benefit from reduced tax rates. Additionally, we plan to introduce import taxes on vehicles for investors in the EPZ area,” he said.

The official, however, declined to specify the exact rates of the proposed or increased duties.

NBR sources hinted that for the import of capital machinery by EPZ investors, a duty of around 1% may be imposed, while for spare parts, equipment, and furniture, the duty is likely to exceed 1%.

Furthermore, for vehicle imports, there may be a substantial increase in import duties, possibly reaching as high as 800%.

“The decision to implement these measures was not solely based on revenue concerns. We also took into account the importance of establishing a level playing field with other investors and addressing the misuse of duty-free facilities,” the official said.

There are allegations that the duty-free benefits are being extensively misused.

During a budget discussion last year, NBR Chairman Abu Hena Md Rahmatul Muneem brought up the issue, saying, “Due to tax benefits, there is still excessive reliance on imports for products that could be domestically produced. We must also prioritise the development of local industries.”

Hinting at tightening the benefits, the head of the revenue authority said, “We will reassess the facilities and make them more stringent. We will no longer provide facilities for importing items like office stationery and chairs. Why should even wooden chairs be imported from abroad with duty-free benefits?”

Investors express concern

However, investors have expressed concerns about the NBR’s new approach, apprehensive of losing reasons for choosing the EPZs.

Shams Mahmud, the managing director of Shasha Denims Limited, a textile factory located in the Dhaka EPZ, told TBS, “If the existing duty and tax facilities are reduced, foreign investors may backtrack on their commitments.”

“When investors initially came to invest in EPZs, they were promised these facilities. However, if any of these facilities are suddenly withdrawn or reduced, it may lead to a loss of confidence among,” he said.

“This not only impacts foreign investors but also hampers local investment. Already, some facilities for EPZ investors have been cut,” Shams added.

Non-EPZ businesses welcome the move

Mohammed Hatem, the managing director of MB Knitwear Limited, a factory based in Narayanganj outside the EPZ, said, “This initiative is commendable if the government aims to create a level playing field between EPZ and non-EPZ zones.”

“However, we also do not agree with any decision made abruptly and without prior consultation with stakeholders,” he said.

Dr Ahsan H Mansur, the executive director of the Policy Research Institute (PRI), told TBS, “There is no justification for differing import tax rates between factories within and outside the EPZs. However, this consideration should have been made before granting these benefits. Sudden policy changes undermine investor confidence.”

Incentives provided to EPZ investors

Factories operating in Bangladesh EPZs since 1983 have been enjoying duty-free benefits and other facilities. 

According to the Bangladesh Export Processing Zone Authority (Bepza), factories in these areas currently benefit from duty-free imports of construction materials, machinery, office equipment, and spare parts. They also enjoy duty-free import and export of raw materials and finished goods, relief from double taxation, and exemption from dividend tax.

Furthermore, they are eligible for a tax holiday, which offers a reduced tax rate. 

According to both NBR sources and investors, every investor within the EPZ, whether foreign or in a joint venture, enjoys duty-free facilities for each vehicle. Additionally, they receive reduced import tax benefits for spare parts.

Moreover, they are relieved from double taxation and exempted from dividend tax. They also receive a Generalised System of Preferences (GSP) facility for exports from Bangladesh, and remittance of royalty, technical, and consultancy fees is permitted.

Additionally, factories in EPZ benefit from specialised security measures, and trade unions are still not permitted in the EPZ unlike other areas.

An EPZ investor, on condition of anonymity, said, “Some facilities exist only on paper as customs officials are reluctant to recognise Bepza’s certification for duty benefits. As a result, investors are compelled to pay higher taxes or engage in underhand deals with certain officials.”

Md Tanvir Hossain, executive director (Investment Promotion) of Bepza, told TBS, “It is understandable that the government needs revenue, so it is not unusual for the NBR to consider reducing certain benefits. However, it would be preferable if they consult with the relevant authorities before making any decisions.”

According to BEPZA, some 451 factories are operating in the country’s eight EPZs, with investments totalling about $8 billion from 38 countries, employing approximately 500,000 people. 

Of these 451 factories, around 300 are primarily related to the garment, textile, and accessories industries.

Fazlul Hoque, the managing director of Plummy Fashions Limited, one of the country’s renowned environmentally friendly RMG factories, said, “We also advocate for uniform facilities both within and outside the EPZs. However, it is crucial to consider that without additional incentives, investors may be reluctant to invest there.”

Import duty on some food items may be cut

According to NBR sources, there are plans to reduce import taxes on certain food items, such as baby food, which are not produced domestically, to stabilise their market prices. 

Additionally, the NBR aims to narrow the tariff gap between imported and locally made products.

“Given Bangladesh’s impending graduation from the least developed country (LDC) status by 2026, there is substantial pressure on us to rationalise tariffs and diminish anti-export biases,” explained an NBR official. 

“Therefore, we are devising a plan to lower the current high tariff barriers on certain items by either reducing import tariffs or increasing tariffs on locally produced equivalents,” he added.

Over Tk36 lakh earners may face a 5% higher tax

Currently, individual taxpayers have to pay taxes up to 25%. Accordingly, those whose income is more than Tk16.50 lakh, have to pay tax in the highest slab or 25%. 

NBR sources said that with the new plan, income up to another Tk20 lakh will be taxed at 25% and 30% tax on the subsequent income. So, a 30% tax has to be paid for income above Tk36.50 lakh.

As a result, about 50,000 taxpayers will come under the additional tax, according to the relevant sources of NBR.


Reyad Hossain is a Senior Staff Correspondent at The Business Standard, who specialises in national and international trade, readymade garments sector, labour issues, the National Board of Revenue (Tax, VAT, Customs) and local trade bodies. His career spans over a decade. He can be reached at

RMG injury scheme to cover commuting accidents: ILO

“The Governance Board of the Employment Injury Scheme (EIS) Pilot approved the inclusion of ‘commuting accidents’ as industrial accidents, making them eligible for compensation payout starting from 1st July 2024” as per the International Labour Organization (ILO).

Md Mahbub Hossain, secretary of the Ministry of Labour and Employment (MoLE) chaired the meeting, and announced the decision to include commuting accidents in the Employment Injury Scheme Pilot to ‘ensure protection of industries and workers in Bangladesh’.

RMG injury scheme to cover commuting accidents: ILO
Figure: RMG injury scheme to cover commuting accidents.

The EIS Pilot Governance Board’s member government agencies (Central Fund, DoL, DIFE), workers’ organizations (UFGW, NCCWE), and employers’ organizations (BEF, BGMEA, BKMEA) all unanimously supported the decision.

Technical experts from the ILO offered insights into important technical and financial aspects of such an expansion, such as the need to treat accidents involving commuters as workplace accidents but to keep separate records because these incidents happen outside of factories and are not associated with any specific factory.

Additionally, they presented a strong case for the financial sustainability of the coverage of accidents under the EIS Pilot, ILO said. 

The workers’ representatives also expressed their commitment to support the initiative.

“RMG Sector is a relatively safe sector, however, road travel is the most horrible part of this job, therefore commuting accidents are important to be covered,” they said.

Article 7 of the ILO Employment Injury Benefits Convention No. 121 (C-121) requires countries to define industrial accidents, including the conditions under which a commuting accident is considered to be an industrial accident.

Adapting this measure brings the Bangladesh EIS one step closer to alignment with the requirements outlined in C -121.

Within the scope of the EIS Pilot, incidents that occur during the direct route between an employee’s place of employment and their local place of residence are classified as commuting accidents.

The EIS Pilot now addresses two of the three suggested vulnerabilities—”Occupational Diseases” is still uncovered—after including commuter accidents. However, a procedure to increase national occupational disease data and capacity has begun.

Tuomo Poutiainen, ILO’s Country Director for Bangladesh said, “Since June 21, 2022, the EIS Pilot has been compensating injured workers and the dependents of deceased workers in the ready-made garments sector for work-related accidents. With this inclusion of commuting accidents, the initiative is expected to provide enhanced protection to workers and improve industrial relations, which are often disrupted by accidents involving workers on their way to or from work.”

১১ বছরেও টিকফা চুক্তির সুবিধা নিতে পারেনি বাংলাদেশ

রানাপ্লাজা ধসের পর যুক্তরাষ্ট্র শুল্কমুক্ত সুবিধা বা জিএসপি উঠিয়ে নিয়ে টিকফা চুক্তিতে বাণিজ্য সমতা করতে চেয়েছিল। তবে এ চুক্তির ১১ বছরেও তেমন কোনো সুবিধা নিতে পারেনি বাংলাদেশ। উল্টো শ্রমমান নিয়ে প্রতিনিয়তই প্রশ্ন তুলে চাপে রাখছে যুক্তরাষ্ট্র।

দেশের তৈরি পোশাক খাতের ইতিহাস প্রায় সাড়ে চার দশকের। সত্তর দশকের শেষের দিকে দেশের তৈরি পোশাক প্রথম ফ্রান্সে রপ্তানি হয়। মাত্র ১০ হাজার পিস শার্টের ওই চালানের দাম ছিল ১ লাখ ৩০ হাজার ফ্রাঁ, বর্তমান টাকার অঙ্কে যা ছিল ২৩ লাখ ৪০ হাজার।

মাত্র ২৩ লাখ টাকার বাজার এখন দেশের শীর্ষ রপ্তানি খাত, যার আকার ৪ হাজার ৬৯৯ কোটি ১৬ লাখ মার্কিন ডলার। তৈরি পোশাকের সবচেয়ে বড় গন্তব্য ইউরোপ ও যুক্তরাষ্ট্র। তবে এ বাজারে প্রবেশ করাটা খুব একটা সহজ ছিল না। বাজার ধরার সে লড়াইয়ে ক্রেতাদের নানা শর্তের বেড়াজাল ছিল। যা পোশাক রপ্তানির ৪৬ বছরেও কমেনি বরং এর ধরন বদলেছে, বেড়েছে শর্তের তালিকা।

শর্ত মানলেও কাঙ্ক্ষিত সুবিধা দিতে যুক্তরাষ্ট্রের যেন বরাবরই অনীহা। দোহানীতি অনুযায়ী, স্বল্পোন্নত দেশগুলোর ৯৭ শতাংশ পণ্যে জিএসপি দিয়ে থাকে যুক্তরাষ্ট্র। তবে বাংলাদেশের তৈরি পোশাকে তা কখনোই মেলেনি। উল্টো শ্রমমান, কর্মপরিবেশ ও নিরাপত্তার দোহাই দিয়ে ২০১৩ সালে রানাপ্লাজা ট্র্যাজেডির পর যেসব পণ্যে জিএসপি ছিল তাও উঠিয়ে নেয়া হয়। তবে সেই ক্ষতি কাটিয়ে দুই দেশের বাণিজ্য ও অর্থনৈতিক সম্পর্ক আরও জোরদারের জন্য সে বছরের নভেম্বরে আলোচিত টিকফা চুক্তি সই হয়। কিন্তু ১১ বছরেও সেই চুক্তির কি কোনো সুবিধা নিতে পেরেছে বাংলাদেশ?

বাংলাদেশ টেক্সটাইল মিলস অ্যাসোসিয়েশন (বিটিএমএ) সভাপতি মোহাম্মদ আলী খোকন বলেন, ‘৩ থেকে ৪ বিলিয়ন ডলার থেকে ১০ বিলিয়ন ডলারে আমরা উন্নীত করেছি। আমেরিকার মার্কেটে আমাদের অবস্থান ভিয়েতনামের চেয়ে খারাপ নয়। আর আমরা যে জিএসপি সুবিধা পাচ্ছি না, এটি সম্পূর্ণ রাজনৈতিক সিদ্ধান্ত। এখানে আমাদের কোনো ব্যর্থতা নেই।’

যুক্তরাষ্ট্র থেকে আমদানি করা তুলা দিয়ে যেসব পোশাক তৈরি করা হয়, সেসব পোশাকে শুল্কমুক্ত সুবিধা পেতে দীর্ঘদিন ধরে দাবি জানিয়ে আসছে বাংলাদেশ। তাদের প্রস্তাব অনুযায়ী, যুক্তরাষ্ট্র থেকে আমদানির পর বন্দরে তুলা ফিউমিগেশন পদ্ধতি বা বিষবাষ্পীকরণের বাধ্যবাধকতা তুলে নেয়ার পর আমদানিও বেড়েছে। পাশাপাশি শত শত কোটি টাকা সাশ্রয় ও বন্দরে পাঁচদিন অপেক্ষার অবসান হয়েছে।

বিটিএমএর তথ্য অনুযায়ী, দুই বছর আগে বাংলাদেশে যুক্তরাষ্ট্রের তুলার বাজার হিস্যা ছিল ৯ শতাংশ। ফিউমিগেশন পদ্ধতি বাতিলের পর তা এখন প্রায় ১৪ শতাংশে উন্নীত হয়েছে। তাহলে শুল্কমুক্ত সুবিধা দিতে বাধা কিসে?

মোহাম্মদ আলী খোকন আরও বলেন, ‘আমাদের দাবি কিন্তু বাস্তবায়ন হয়নি। আমরা দীর্ঘদিন ধরে আলোচনা করে আসছি। কিন্তু আমাদের বিষয়টি বিবেচনায় রাখেনি।’

ঢাকায় সবশেষ টিকফা বৈঠকেও ইপিজেডে ট্রেড ইউনিয়ন বাস্তবায়ন, শ্রম অধিকার লঙ্ঘন করলে কারখানার মালিকদের বিরুদ্ধে ব্যবস্থা নেয়াসহ দেশের শ্রম অধিকার নিয়ে ১১ দফা কর্মপরিকল্পনা দেয়া হয়।

অর্থনীতিবিদ ড. এম এ রাজ্জাক বলেন, ‘যুক্তরাষ্ট্রের কাছ থেকে রাতারাতি বাণিজ্য সুবিধা পাওয়া সম্ভব নয়। এজন্য দীর্ঘমেয়াদি পরিকল্পনা প্রয়োজন।

১৫ দশমিক ৬২ শতাংশ শুল্ক থাকা সত্ত্বেও মার্কিন যুক্তরাষ্ট্রে বাংলাদেশের প্রধান রপ্তানি পণ্য তৈরি পোশাক। যা যুক্তরাষ্ট্র থেকে আসা আয়ের ৯০ শতাংশের বেশি। চলতি অর্থবছরের প্রথম ৮ মাসে এ বাজারে প্রায় সাড়ে ৫ বিলিয়ন ডলারের পোশাক রপ্তানি হয়েছে।

এওয়াইএইচ

Govt sets $110bn export earnings for FY27

The government has set a target to export goods and services worth $110 billion in FY27, which is double the earnings recorded in the last fiscal year. 

The cabinet committee on economic affairs approved the draft Export Policy prepared for 2023-24 to FY27 on Wednesday. 

“It will now be placed at the cabinet for approval,” said Mahmudul Hossain Khan, secretary for coordination and reforms at the Cabinet division.

Bangladesh’s export earnings stood at $55 billion in FY23.

Khan said that the draft policy highlighted the challenges that Bangladesh is expected to face once it graduates from the group of least-developed countries in 2026.

The policy focuses on alternatives to cash incentives to encourage exporters since the country will not be able to offer direct financial support once it becomes a developing country.

The government’s export target for FY24 stands at $62 billion.

Exporters shipped goods worth $47.47 billion in July-April of the fiscal year.

TECN tops APA rankings: recognized as best textile college by DoT

Textile Engineering College Noakhali (TECN) has cemented its position as a leader in Bangladesh’s textile educational landscape by securing the prestigious title of Best Educational Institute. The Department of Textile (DoT) recognized the college with the title through the Annual Performance Agreement (APA) system.

This recognition signifies TECN’s exceptional performance across various educational metrics, solidifying its commitment to academic excellence.

TECN tops APA rankings: recognized as best textile college under Department of Textiles

Textile Engineering College, Noakhali (TECN) has achieved a remarkable feat by clinching the top spot in various categories by the Department of Textiles (DoT) in Bangladesh.

The college secured the coveted first place in the following categories:

  1. Best Textile Engineering College among all government institutions by the Department of Textiles (DoT).
  2. Best Educational Institute through the Annual Performance Agreement (APA) system.
  3. Best Innovative Idea and Innovation Project across all textile institutes and colleges under DoT. Notably, this project, titled “Improved Fire Automation System,” also clinched the top spot at the Ministry of Textile and Jute’s Innovation Competition, surpassing projects from various departments. The project is now set to compete at the national level among all ministries under the Cabinet.
TECN tops APA rankings: recognized as best textile college under Department of Textiles

The prestigious institute was named the Best Textile Engineering College, outperforming all other government-run textile engineering colleges. TECN’s excellence extended beyond its core discipline, as it was also recognized as the Best Educational Institute through the Annual Performance Agreement (APA) system.

The APA system serves as a rigorous evaluation framework for educational institutions in Bangladesh. By achieving the top spot, TECN has demonstrably surpassed other institutions in delivering high-quality education, fostering a positive learning environment, and achieving outstanding student outcomes.

This remarkable accomplishment is a testament to the dedication and tireless efforts of TECN’s faculty, staff, and students. Their unwavering commitment to excellence has propelled the college to the forefront of Bangladesh’s educational scene.

TECN tops APA rankings: recognized as best textile college under Department of Textiles

TECN’s winning streak didn’t stop there. The college’s innovative spirit shone through as it bagged the Best Innovative Idea and Innovation Project award. This distinction wasn’t limited to the DoT realm; TECN’s innovative project even secured the top prize at the Ministry of Textiles and Jute (MoTJ), surpassing projects from all departments.

The success story continues, with TECN’s award-winning project now setting its sights on a national competition amongst all ministries under the Cabinet.

TECN tops APA rankings: recognized as best textile college under Department of Textiles

The report concludes with a celebratory message congratulating TECN’s students, faculty, and staff. The tireless efforts of the APA team are acknowledged for their instrumental role in ensuring the timely completion of tasks. Special gratitude is expressed towards the MoTJ secretary, Director General, Directors (Admin and Education), and all DoT officials for recognizing TEC’s exceptional performance across various categories.

Textile Engineering College Noakhali

Local start-ups are aiding the RMG industry move towards sustainability

By harnessing the power of innovation and sustainability, Bangladeshi startups are reshaping the textile industry landscape and setting a new standard for global competitiveness

The pursuit of sustainability reflects a significant paradigm shift in Bangladesh’s RMG sector. Photo: TBS

At present, there is a surge of innovation and modernisation in Bangladesh’s textile industry, led by the country’s start-ups, with the aim of driving sustainability and economic efficiency in the sector. With the goal of retaining more financial resources domestically, these start-ups are trying to address the industry’s overreliance on foreign technology and supplies. 

Build Bangladesh and the H&M Foundation jointly organise the Needle Innovation Challenge (NIC), which has developed into a breeding ground for new ideas and has given rise to companies such as Plastile, foamTEX, ThreadBridge, Thrift Store, Rentify, Sui-Chorki, FemmeStitch, and Pina-TEX Wear. 

Plastile aims to create useful RMG accessories out of plastic trash, possibly creating a new market for recycled materials. Pina-TEX Wear is working to lower Bangladesh’s high import costs for cotton and cotton-based textiles by creating an affordable method of removing fibre from pineapple leaves as an alternative to imported cotton. 

A new company called Green Dye seeks to replace synthetic and chemical-based dyes by using microorganisms to produce an organic cloth colour. Bangladesh now imports more than 178 million USD of synthetic dye annually, while organic or natural dye would be more cost-effective. 

By upcycling textile waste, another firm called DenimRevive hopes to support the fashion industry’s commitment to sustainability and waste reduction. The creative business concept of DenimRevive centres on repurposing locally produced denim trash to create a range of upcycled goods, including clothes, accessories, and handicrafts. They promote sustainable fashion, which has a global market potential of 6.89 billion USD. 

Ackermans, a different startup, aims to transform our perception of clothing accessories. The use of sugarcane bagasse to make biodegradable buttons and tags for the RMG industry is the fundamental invention of Ackermans. 

An ed-tech company called Shimmy Technologies is training RMG employees for an automated future. By using gamification to teach and upskill manufacturing workers, they make sure that the labour force can continue to support jobs in the era of automation. They put special emphasis on upskilling female employees, who are frequently left behind in the transition to more technologically sophisticated industrial techniques. 

Some of these companies convert plastic waste into useful accessories for RMG or ready-made garments. At the same time, others are using microbes to produce organic dyes that come along with self-healing and biodegradable packaging. 

Others have gone as far as reimagining the tailor experience with a Common Facility Centre for women from far-flung areas and calling on sustainable fashion through clothing rental platforms and thrift store ideas. 

As environmental issues become increasingly pressing and sustainability becomes a buzzword all over the world, the Bangladeshi garment industry faces a defining moment when it is required to choose between sustainable principles and rapid growth. 

The pursuit of sustainability reflects a significant paradigm shift in Bangladesh’s RMG sector. Leading the change are projects such as the Partnership for Cleaner Textile and the Circular Economy in Bangladesh’s Apparel Industry project. 

For example, PaCT alone guided more than 200 factories on a sustainable path, helping them save enormous sums in water, energy, and chemicals while ensuring the industry’s products are environmentally friendly. 

Located half a world away from Europe, Bangladesh is nevertheless its third-largest supplier of clothes and textiles. Hence, becoming more sustainable not only solves powerful environmental issues but also allows European firms to work with countries conforming to the EU’s standards. 

The Challenge of imports and financial leakage 

Bangladesh’s reliance on imports makes it helpless against variances in worldwide costs. Any expansion in the cost of unrefined substances, like cotton or engineered strands, can fundamentally affect creation costs and dissolve net revenues for makers. Bangladesh’s importing items include cotton, synthetic fibres, and dyes, the bulk of which are sourced from countries like China and India.

In importing materials, Bangladesh faces economic vulnerabilities, supply chain risks, and strategic mitigations. Bringing in tremendous amounts of unrefined components like cotton, manufactured strands, and colours requires significant amounts of USD. This reliance can drain trade savings, particularly during worldwide market volatility, influencing the country’s capacity to import other fundamental merchandise. 

Reliance on a couple of nations for basic sources makes Bangladesh vulnerable to international strains and exchange fluctuations. For example, any disturbance in exchange with China or India can prompt quick deficiencies and cost climbs. The financial implications of this reliance are staggering, with Bangladesh spending a little over $3 billion to import just cotton annually. 

Additionally, Bangladesh also imports synthetic fibres and the dyes used to colour them, which also account for several hundred million more in annual import bills. 

According to Index Mundi, Bangladesh’s need for massive cotton to support the RMG, means that it imports over 7 million bales of cotton at a great import cost. High cotton prices or a restriction on import-export regulations can change the cost structure and profitability of Bangladesh RMG producers overnight. 

Balancing profit and environment 

Against this background, the twin imperatives of economic dynamism and sustainability may be effective for the textile industry in Bangladesh. The adoption of concepts from the circular economy, much less import reliance, and moving towards sustainable manufacturing point to marked change towards the future, which will be more self-reliant and sensitive to the environment. 

Creative startups have a critical role to play in promoting this change. They are breaking new ground in recycling, upcycling, and creating sustainable materials that reconcile environmental responsibility with commercial viability. By harnessing the power of innovation and sustainability, Bangladeshi startups are reshaping the textile industry landscape and setting a new standard for global competitiveness. 

These programs not only help reduce the industry’s dependency on imports but also steer it towards efficiency and sustainability. Bangladesh’s RMG sector is now transforming into an exemplary example of how environmental management and economic prosperity can go hand in hand. 

As Bangladesh continues to navigate the complexities of global trade and environmental sustainability, the role of these startups becomes increasingly crucial. 


Reshad Rahman Bhuiyan is an entrepreneur and a student currently studying in North South University, majoring in HRM and Marketing.


Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and views of The Business Standard

The competitive dynamics of Bangladesh and Turkey in apparel exports

Turkish-made apparel now costs approximately 40% more than similar products from Bangladesh, a gap that was only 15-20% a few years ago. This is creating opportunities for Bangladeshi exporters to attract consumer’s attention

The global apparel market is a battleground where countries compete for market share and economic benefits. The two major players in the global apparel market are Bangladesh and Turkey. They are competing with each other. While Bangladesh, the second-largest apparel exporter, is increasing its market share by offering competitive prices without compromising on quality, Turkey, the fourth-largest apparel exporter, is primarily focused on high-value products with higher prices. Both major players in the global apparel industry are navigating a complex and competitive landscape.

Bangladesh’s garment exports reached a record $47.38 billion in 2023, marking a qualitative shift towards non-cotton products, outerwear, activewear, and suits. This diversification underscores Bangladesh’s evolving capabilities and its commitment to meeting the changing demands of global markets.

The competitive dynamics of Bangladesh and Turkey in apparel exports
Figure 1: Key facts of Bangladesh apparels.

One of the key factors contributing to Bangladesh’s competitiveness is its lower production costs. The cost-effectiveness of Bangladeshi garments, combined with improving product quality, has made the country an attractive sourcing destination for major global brands such as H&M, Zara, and Primark. Additionally, the adoption of advanced technologies and innovations in manufacturing processes has further enhanced Bangladesh’s position in the global market.

Turkish apparel industry focuses on producing a wide range of clothing items, including ready-to-wear clothing, knitwear, denim, outerwear, and accessories. Turkey is also a major hub for textile production, with many apparel manufacturers sourcing their fabrics locally.

According to a recent report, Turkey’s apparel industry has been under pressure due to recent economic policies and global market shifts. The Turkish government has implemented tariffs ranging from 30% to 100% on textile imports to protect local yarn and fabric manufacturers from cheaper foreign competition. This move, however, has increased production costs for Turkish apparel manufacturers, making their products significantly more expensive. As a result, Turkish-made apparel now costs approximately 40% more than similar products from Bangladesh, a gap that was only 15-20% a few years ago.

It’s good news for Bangladeshi exporters that this gap will help them to catch more new buyers. Most of the cases, consumers want to pay competitive price for the items they buy. When they will find same quality product with two different prices, they mostly choose the more affordable option. This is because consumers often seek the best value for their money, prioritizing cost savings while still getting the quality they desire.

To counter these challenges, Turkey is focusing on its green transformation and the development of its ready-to-wear fashion brands. These strategic initiatives aim to differentiate Turkish products in the market by emphasizing sustainability and brand recognition. By investing in eco-friendly production processes and marketing its fashion brands more aggressively, Turkey hopes to appeal to the growing segment of environmentally conscious consumers and maintain its market position despite higher prices.

The competitive dynamics of Bangladesh and Turkey in apparel exports
Figure 2: Key facts of Turkish apparels.

While Bangladesh has benefited from its cost advantage, there is a strong argument for re-evaluating its pricing strategy. Keeping prices low has undoubtedly helped Bangladesh capture a larger market share, but it may also limit the industry’s profitability and ability to invest in further improvements. Instead of competing solely on price, Bangladesh should consider increasing its prices modestly. This approach would align with the perceived value of its high-quality products and provide additional revenue to invest in technology, worker welfare, and sustainability initiatives.

Also, to sustain its growth trajectory, Bangladesh must continue to innovate and add value to its products. Embracing fashion tech trends, such as virtual sampling, data analytics, and e-textiles, can differentiate Bangladeshi products in the global market. Additionally, enhancing production capabilities through the integration of IoT and connected technologies can improve efficiency and reduce waste, further strengthening Bangladesh’s competitive position.

In fine, the competition between Bangladesh and Turkey in the apparel export market underscores the importance of strategic pricing, market diversification, and value addition. Bangladesh’s ability to offer high-quality products at competitive prices gives it a significant edge, but a strategic price increase could enhance its market positioning and sustainability. Turkey, facing higher costs, must leverage its strengths in sustainability and brand development to stay competitive. Both countries must navigate these dynamics carefully to sustain growth and employment in their respective apparel industries.

Lax compliance leads to 30%-40% lower earnings from leather goods export: Analysts

Leather industries in Bangladesh are compelled to sell their products abroad at prices 30%-40% lower than their international value in the absence of compliance, speakers at a seminar said

Exporting leather and leather goods to large global brands requires certification from the Leather Working Group (LWG), an international organisation to oversee compliance in the leather industry. 

“The global brands do not buy products from factories that are not environment-friendly or workers-friendly,” Arif Hossain, auditor of the LWG, told a seminar on “National High-Level Dialogue for Greening the Tannery and Leather Sector in Bangladesh” jointly organised by Solidar Suisse, Prokriti o Jibon Foundation, OSHE Foundation and the European Union in the capital.

While presenting a paper at the seminar held at the Bangabandhu International Convention Centre in the capital, he said there are about 350 LWG certified leather factories in India, whereas the number is less than 10 in Bangladesh. 

“Savar Tannery Industrial Estate still lacks a proper waste management system. Solid waste is being dumped in open spaces,” he pointed out.  

“The leather industry in Bangladesh should be made pollution-free and environment-friendly. This requires proper planning and investment,” he added. 

He expected that the Bangladesh government is working on this issue, which may increase LWG certified factories here. 

The European Union Ambassador to Bangladesh Charles Whiteley said, “The sector employs 10 lakh people, but its contribution to the economy is still relatively modest as 3.8% of the country’s exports come from the leather industry and it contributes around 0.6% to GDP.

He said Bangladesh’s share in the global leather and leather goods market is about 3%. The sector is likely to grow,and it is important that this happens in a sustainable way.

Addressing the seminar as the chief guest, Environment, Forest, and Climate Change Minister Saber Hossain Chowdhury said solid waste is dumped in the open air in Savar – a practice which is absent in the whole world. 

“In fact, we all made mistakes. Even after all these years, the leather industry is polluting the Dhaleswari River. Now, we should not blame anyone. Everyone has to work together,” the minister said.

As the current central effluent treatment plant (CETP) remains incomplete at Savar, the minister called upon the private sector to set up a new CETP to address the pollution issues. 

In FY23, Bangladesh earned $1,223.62 million from exporting leather and leather goods.

The government has set a target to earn $12-13 billion by 2030 from leather and leather products exports, Saber said. 

RMG BANGLADESH NEWS