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The rise of nearshoring in the textile industry

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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The global textile industry is witnessing a significant transformation, driven by the increasing trend of nearshoring. Nearshoring refers to the practice of relocating production closer to the company’s home market or the end consumer. This shift is not only reshaping supply chains but also offering several advantages, such as shorter lead times, reduced transportation costs, and improved responsiveness to market demands. As companies seek to navigate the complexities of a post-pandemic world, nearshoring has emerged as a strategic response to the challenges posed by global supply chains.

  1. The drivers behind nearshoring

Several factors have contributed to the rise of nearshoring in the textile industry:

  • Global Disruptions: The COVID-19 pandemic exposed vulnerabilities in global supply chains, causing delays, shortages, and increased costs. These disruptions highlighted the risks associated with long supply chains that rely heavily on distant production hubs, particularly in Asia.
  • Rising Costs in Traditional Hubs: The cost advantages that once made countries like China and Bangladesh attractive for textile production are diminishing. Rising labor costs, environmental regulations, and trade tensions have prompted companies to reconsider their sourcing strategies.
  • Sustainability and Ethical Concerns: Consumers and regulators are increasingly demanding more sustainable and ethically produced goods. Nearshoring allows companies to exercise greater control over their production processes, ensuring compliance with environmental and labor standards.
  • Technological Advancements: Advances in automation and digitalization have made it feasible to produce textiles closer to end markets without sacrificing cost efficiency. Technologies like 3D knitting and robotic sewing are enabling manufacturers to produce high-quality goods with minimal human intervention.
  1. Impact on the supply chain

The shift towards nearshoring is fundamentally altering the dynamics of the textile supply chain:

  • Shorter Lead Times: One of the most significant advantages of nearshoring is the reduction in lead times. By bringing production closer to the end consumer, companies can respond more quickly to market trends and demand fluctuations. This agility is particularly crucial in the fast-paced fashion industry, where trends can change rapidly. Shorter lead times also enable companies to reduce inventory levels, minimizing the risk of overproduction and waste.
  • Reduced Transportation Costs: Nearshoring can lead to substantial savings in transportation costs. Shipping goods over shorter distances is not only cheaper but also faster, further enhancing the ability to respond to market demands. Additionally, reducing reliance on long-haul shipping reduces the environmental impact, aligning with sustainability goals.
  • Improved Supply Chain Resilience: Nearshoring helps companies build more resilient supply chains. By diversifying production locations and reducing dependence on distant suppliers, companies can mitigate the risks associated with global disruptions, such as natural disasters, political instability, or pandemics. This resilience is becoming increasingly important as companies seek to safeguard their operations against future uncertainties.
  • Enhanced Collaboration and Innovation: Proximity between design teams and production facilities fosters better collaboration and innovation. Nearshoring allows for closer communication and faster feedback loops, leading to more efficient problem-solving and product development. This proximity also enables companies to experiment with smaller production runs and more frequent releases, catering to the growing demand for customization and limited-edition products.
  1. Challenges and considerations

While nearshoring offers numerous benefits, it also presents challenges that companies must navigate:

  • Cost Considerations: Nearshoring can be more expensive than traditional offshoring due to higher labor and production costs in closer markets. Companies must carefully weigh these costs against the benefits of shorter lead times and increased agility.
  • Capacity and Infrastructure: Not all nearshoring destinations have the capacity or infrastructure to handle large-scale production. Companies may need to invest in local facilities or partner with local suppliers to build the necessary capabilities.
  • Cultural and Regulatory Differences: Nearshoring often involves working in new markets with different cultural norms and regulatory environments. Companies must invest in understanding these differences and adapting their operations accordingly.

Author: Rohit Dev Sethi, Managing Director, ColossusTex

The future of nearshoring in the textile industry

The trend of nearshoring in the textile industry is likely to continue as companies seek to build more resilient, agile, and sustainable supply chains. However, the success of nearshoring will depend on the ability of companies to balance cost considerations with the need for speed, flexibility, and innovation. As technology continues to evolve, nearshoring may become even more attractive, enabling companies to produce high-quality goods closer to their customers while maintaining competitive pricing. In this dynamic landscape, nearshoring is poised to play a pivotal role in shaping the future of the textile industry.

U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol grower enrollment surges 35% in 24CY

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol announced continued program expansion for the fifth consecutive year – both in enrolled growers and planted acres. Planted cotton acres enrolled increased to 2.1 million acres, up 31% from 2023. This growth is driven by a 35% increase in enrolled growers for the 2024 crop year (CY), demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability within the cotton industry.

US-Cotton-Trust-Protocol-Grower-Enrollment-2024
Figure: The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol announced continued program expansion for the fifth consecutive year.

“We are proud to see a steady increase in grower enrollment for the Trust Protocol for a fifth consecutive year, reflecting a continued commitment to sustainability within the cotton industry,” said Daren Abney, U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol Executive Director.

“It is a collective effort that brings more responsibly produced cotton into the market, providing brands and retailers with greater access to sustainable sourcing options,” Daren Abney added.

With the increase of 35%, enrollment for 2024 now totals 1,327 growers participating in the Trust Protocol. Enrolled acres for the 2023 crop year resulted in a yield of 1.9 million bales of cotton. The expanded acreage for 2024 will further enhance the availability of sustainable cotton in the market.

“We look forward to supporting our brand and retailer members in their increased uptake of Trust Protocol Cotton and driving value back to our growers,” said Abney.

The Climate Smart Cotton Program also made strides toward its goal of enrolling at least 1,650 farming entities, including 330 from historically underserved communities. In 2024, 1,340 Trust Protocol farming entities applied for Level 1 of the Climate Smart Cotton Program with 282 from historically underserved communities. These farming entities represent 444,000 acres.

Growers who are participating in Level 1 of the Climate Smart Cotton Program can now also apply for participation in Level 2. This provides the opportunity to receive additional financial risk-share for implementing Climate Smart Practices Changes into their operations that will allow for improved soil health, increased drought and flood resilience, and reduced greenhouse gas emissions.

The Trust Protocol’s core values include a commitment to U.S. cotton’s legacy of authenticity, innovation and excellence, environmental stewardship, caring of people, and personal and corporate integrity. The program currently has more than 2,000 supplier members and over 40 companies and their brands including Ralph Lauren, Gap Inc., Levi Strauss & Co., Carhartt and J. Crew.

To learn more about the Trust Protocol and how to become a member, visit TrustUSCotton.org.

The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is a voluntary sustainability program for U.S. cotton growers and a traceability platform for all U.S. cotton. It is the only system that provides quantifiable, verifiable goals and measurements and drives continuous improvement in six key sustainability metrics – land use, soil carbon, water measurement, soil loss, greenhouse gas emissions, and energy efficiency. It is also the world’s first sustainable cotton fiber program to offer article-level supply chain transparency to all members.

Bangladesh’s RMG sector seeks solution of disruptions happening for floods

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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The ongoing flash floods affecting 77 upazilas across 11 districts in Bangladesh have significantly disrupted the ready-made garment (RMG) sector, with exporters facing severe logistical challenges. The floods have completely cut off Chattogram port from the rest of the country, causing a backlog of containers and raising concerns about meeting export deadlines.

Exporters have voiced their worries over the disconnection of both rail and road links between Dhaka and Chattogram, which has severely impacted their business operations. Md Absar Hossain, Managing Director of Top Star Fashions Ltd and a Director of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) in Chattogram, highlighted the urgent need for government intervention.

                                                       Figure: RMG supply chain has been disrupted by flood.

 “Vehicles cannot move on the Dhaka-Chattogram highway, particularly in Feni and Cumilla, due to the floods. Products for export and import are piling up, leading to significant financial losses. We urgently need government support to clear the water from the highways and resume normal operations,” Absar stated.

The flood’s timing has exacerbated challenges for the RMG sector, which was already recovering from previous disruptions. Md Mohiuddin Rubel, Additional Managing Director of Denim Expert Limited and a BGMEA Director, expressed concerns about the escalating costs and damages due to the ongoing crisis. He emphasized the need for proactive measures to mitigate the impact of such natural disasters, including developing alternative routes and strengthening crisis management teams.

In response to the crisis, industry leaders have urged the government to explore alternative routes for transporting goods. Mohammad Hatem, Executive President of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), called for the use of the Pangaon river port and Mongla port as backup options to ensure timely shipments.

“Buyers are pressuring us to deliver products by air, as the floods have rendered roadways impassable. This will significantly impact our export earnings, but alternative shipment routes through Pangaon and Mongla ports could help mitigate the disruptions,” Hatem explained.

BGMEA President Khandoker Rafiqul Islam also noted the challenges posed by the flooding, particularly after a month-long disruption caused by the nationwide student movement. He expressed hope that transportation on the Dhaka-Chattogram highway would resume soon, allowing business operations to return to normal.

Despite these difficulties, the RMG sector remains focused on maintaining its global competitiveness. Industry leaders are hopeful that government support and strategic planning will help them navigate the current crisis and continue to meet export demands.

Although the global apparel market has seen a slight decline, Bangladesh remains the world’s second-largest clothing exporter, with the RMG sector accounting for 84.58% of the country’s total export earnings in the fiscal year 2022-23. The commitment of the industry to maintain its global competitiveness is evident, even in the face of natural calamities.

As the industry is going through this difficult period, the collective efforts of RMG exporters, industry associations, and government bodies will be crucial in ensuring that Bangladesh continues to thrive on the international stage. 

Walmart crisis hitting Bangladesh apparel sector

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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US retail giant Walmart is radically reducing the cost of its apparel items or canceling apparel orders in an attempt to sell off its leftover as shoppers shift their focus toward food amidst the rising inflation. As a result, one of Walmart’s main readymade garment (RMG) sourcing countries – Bangladesh is seeing work orders worth billions of dollars canceled.

Walmart crisis hitting global apparel
Figure: “The increasing levels of food and fuel inflation are affecting how customers spend,” Walmart’s Chief Executive, Doug McMillon, said. Courtesy: Matt Rourke/Associated Press

Walmart’s executives said the retailing giant has emptied most of its summer collections ahead of the back-to-school season – which has started in big parts of the South – and the forthcoming holiday period, reports FreightWaves.

Bangladeshi RMG leaders opined that they have witnessed that Walmart has been dipping its apparel orders in terms of both number and volume in garment factories for the last couple of weeks.

Textile millers who are providing fabrics for Walmart say that they also facing a scarcity of orders. While a Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) leader said to media that Walmart had already annulled some orders. And it also suspended shipments of some orders ready for delivery and paused those in process.

Meanwhile, the cost of garment production has increased by at least 20 percent due to the abnormal increase in fuel oil prices. Garment factory owners are unable to find ways to cope with the increased costs.

The factory owners say that the prices of garments currently in production are fixed at least two months in advance. The agreement was made according to the situation at that time. But in the meantime, the cost has increased due to the sudden increase in the price of fuel oil. There is no opportunity to propose a new price increase in the production stage. As a result, they have to produce clothes at a loss.

Walmart said the shoppers are focusing on essentials like food and gasoline due to skyrocketing inflation and high gas prices. The announcement comes after the company announced reduced profit projections for fiscal year 2023.

“The increasing levels of food and fuel inflation are affecting how customers spend, and while we’ve made good progress clearing hardline categories, apparel in Walmart U.S. is requiring more markdown dollars,” Walmart CEO Doug McMillon said in a statement.

5 ways textile manufacturers can reduce their environmental impact

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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The textile industry’s environmental impact is a long-standing subject of scrutiny, with parties ranging from concerned consumers to government officials chiming in to suggest how to make meaningful, positive changes. Here are five ways textile manufacturers could stimulate progress.

Pilled-of-folded-textile
Figure 1: Piled of folded textile

Reduce the use of toxic processes

One option for textile manufacturers to make improvements is to analyze which processes cause the most harm to the planet and look for ways to alter or remove them. Researchers at Aalto University came up with a non-toxic method of making waterproof, breathable textiles. It involves working with a carnauba wax coating.

The team also determined that textile manufacturers could use their method to dye and waterproof the materials simultaneously. The multitasking aspect of this technique could also support environmental gains by reducing the resources used during production.

Investigate recycled textile creation options

A growing number of textile companies turned to recycled materials to lessen their environmental impacts. One company makes nylon from recycled fishing nets, while another focuses on post-consumer cotton and polyester. Waste is not going away, and these forward-thinking businesses want to make new things from it.

It’s not just the textiles that help the environment through recycling. Some brands say their processes for working with the textiles reduce water usage by 98% while cutting carbon dioxide emissions by 90%. These new textiles are not yet widespread, but they could become more popular once people know they exist. Many conscious consumers are eager to help the planet by choosing eco-friendly apparel, and this is one way to do that.

Assorted-textile
Figure 2: Close up photo of assorted textile

Stop participating in the fast fashion trend

The rise of fast fashion concerns apparel that textile makers churn out quickly to meet ever-fluctuating consumer trends. There’s a related shift away from clothing made to last, too. Many fast-fashion retailers expect people to wear the garments a few times, then discard them. That short cycle means there is no need to focus on high-quality items that last for years.

Consider that while the traditional clothing industry has two cycles per year, fast fashion has 50. That’s nearly a new cycle for every week of the year. This shift means that people buy more garments but don’t wear them as often. Textile manufacturers could make an honest effort to bow out of the fast-fashion craze. Many companies in the United States and elsewhere offer ethically sourced clothing that opposes the throwaway culture of fast fashion.

Improve wastewater-related practices

The textile industry is a substantial wastewater producer, especially during the coloring and finishing steps associated with clothing. To put the matter into perspective, consider that the industry uses about 100 to 200 liters of water for every kilogram of the produced item. One option is to recycle the wastewater. One project in a Pakistani textile factory used a membrane bioreactor and reverse osmosis to do that, making the water suitable for reuse during fabric rinsing.

Another possibility is to remove contaminants like dyes from the wastewater before it leaves a factory and contributes to pollution. A doctoral student recently explored various methods of achieving that goal. Her experiments cleaned the wastewater while reducing energy expenditure and chemicals used. Many options are not ready for widespread use, but textile manufacturers should stay abreast of advancements and be prepared to adopt them when possible.

Develop fabrics that shed less

Textile manufacturers can also help the planet by engineering fabrics that are less likely to drop plastic microfibers during the washing cycle. A research team found that the water volume used during a wash cycle was one of the primary factors causing the release of those particles. Their statistics showed that a delicate wash cycle shed 800,000 more fibers than a standard washing setting. That outcome contributes to increased plastic pollution in our oceans.

The scientists showed that previous research indicated that the washer’s spin speed, the number of times the drum changed direction or the pauses in a cycle could cause fabric shedding too. However, this new work indicates delicate cycles trigger the undesired effect even more. These conclusions mean that by creating textiles that do not require delicate washes and are less likely to shed, manufacturers cut down on the planet’s pollution.

A commitment to change sparks impressive results

The five actions on this list are things manufacturers can do at the factory level. Other factors — such as government regulations or supply chain shortages — could cause the textile sector to gradually operate in ways that support the environment.

Regardless of the methods used, the all-important first step for a textile factory to take is to pick a plan of action. Then, they must stick to it. Many companies make vague promises about improvements they’d like to enact at some point, but they stop short of specifics. When businesses determine what’s in their power to do and commit to following through, they’ll be on the right path for solving a pressing problem in the fashion sector.

Sources : textiletoday

ক্রয়াদেশ বাতিল ও কাটছাঁট করছে পোশাকের ক্রেতারা

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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বিদ্যুৎ ও জ্বালানি আমদানি বাবদ বর্তমান বৈদেশিক মূল্য পরিশোধের দায় প্রায় ২.২ বিলিয়ন মার্কিন ডলার। দ্রুত এই দায় পরিশোধে বিদ্যুৎ ও জ্বালানি খাতে বাজেট সাপোর্টের জন্য বিশ্বব্যাংকের কাছে এক বিলিয়ন মার্কিন ডলার প্রদানের অনুরোধ জানিয়েছেন বিদ্যুৎ, জ্বালানি ও খনিজ সম্পদ উপদেষ্টা মুহাম্মদ ফাওজুল কবির খান। গতকাল বুধবার জ্বালানি মন্ত্রণালয়ে উপদেষ্টা মুহাম্মদ ফাওজুল কবির খানের সঙ্গে বাংলাদেশে নিযুক্ত বিশ্বব্যাংকের কান্ট্রি ডিরেক্টর আবদৌলায়ে সেকের নেতৃত্বে চার সদস্যের একটি প্রতিনিধিদল সাক্ষাৎ করে। এ সময় জ্বালানি উপদেষ্টা বিশ্বব্যাংকের কাছে এই অনুরোধ জানান।

বিদ্যুৎ-জ্বালানি আমদানির বকেয়া ২২০ কোটি ডলারএ সময় উপদেষ্টা মুহাম্মদ ফাওজুল কবির খান জানান, বর্তমান সরকার একটি দৃঢ় ম্যান্ডেট নিয়ে এসেছে। তিনি দায়িত্ব গ্রহণের প্রথম দিনই বিদ্যুৎ ও জ্বালানি সম্পর্কিত বিদ্যুৎ ও জ্বালানির দ্রুত সরবরাহ বৃদ্ধি (বিশেষ বিধান) আইন, ২০১০ (সংশোধিত ২০২১)-এর অধীনে চলমান কার্যক্রম স্থগিত করেছেন। বাংলাদেশ এনার্জি রেগুলেটরি কমিশন (সংশোধিত) আইন, ২০২৩-এর ৩৪ক ধারায় সরকার কর্তৃক বিদ্যুৎ ও গ্যাসের মূল্য নির্ধারণের ক্ষমতা স্থগিত করেছে। প্রয়োজনে এ আইন দুটি পরীক্ষা-নিরীক্ষা করে সংশোধন বা বাতিলের উদ্যোগ নেওয়া হবে।

এখন থেকে সব ধরনের ক্রয়প্রক্রিয়ায় পাবলিক প্রকিউরমেন্ট আইন, ২০০৬ ও পাবলিক প্রকিউরমেন্ট বিধিমালা, ২০০৮-এর বিধানাবলী ব্যবহার করা হবে। বিদ্যুৎ ও জ্বালানি খাতে নবায়নযোগ্য জ্বালানির ব্যবহার বৃদ্ধির পরিকল্পনা প্রণয়ন বেগবান করা হবে বলেও তিনি জানান।

বিশ্বব্যাংকের কান্ট্রি ডিরেক্টর আবদৌলায়ে সেক নতুন দায়িত্বের জন্য অভিনন্দন জানিয়ে বলেন, তাঁরা বর্তমান সরকারের সঙ্গে কাজ করতে আন্তরিক। বিদ্যুৎ ও জ্বালানি খাতে বাজেট সহায়তার ব্যাপারে প্রস্তাব পেলে তাঁরা আন্তরিকতার সঙ্গে বিবেচনা করবেন।

মতবিনিময়সভায় বিদ্যুৎ বিভাগের সিনিয়র সচিব মো. হাবিবুর রহমান, জ্বালানি ও খনিজ সম্পদ বিভাগের সচিব মো. নূরুল আলম, অর্থসচিব ড. মো. খায়েরুজ্জামান মজুমদার এবং মন্ত্রণালয়ের ঊর্ধ্বতন কর্মকর্তারা উপস্থিত ছিলেন।

Transparency in the Textile Industry: A Call for Honest Reporting

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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The textile and garment industry in Bangladesh has long been a cornerstone of our economy, employing millions and contributing significantly to our national GDP. However, as we navigate the challenges of a global market, transparency in reporting and communication has become more crucial than ever. This is a call to industry leaders, media personnel, and all stakeholders involved to commit to honest and accurate reporting for the sake of our industry, our workers, and future generations.

The Importance of Accurate Reporting

In recent years, there has been a growing concern about the accuracy of the information being disseminated within our industry. Whether it’s reports on profit margins, order volumes, or working conditions, the discrepancies between what is reported and the reality on the ground have become a matter of significant concern.

Employees in our industry are not oblivious to the actual conditions. They are acutely aware of the profit margins, order statuses, and the true state of affairs. When the reports they hear do not align with their lived experiences, it breeds skepticism and distrust. This disconnect between reality and reporting can lead to demoralization, reduced productivity, and strained relationships between workers and management.

The Risks of Misrepresentation

Misrepresenting facts or exaggerating conditions can have serious repercussions for our industry. Not only does it create unnecessary panic and uncertainty among employees, but it also undermines the trust that is essential for a healthy working environment. Trust is the foundation of any successful organization, and when that trust is broken, it can be incredibly challenging to rebuild.

Moreover, inaccurate reporting can also damage our industry’s reputation on a global scale. In a world where consumers and international partners are increasingly concerned about ethical practices, transparency is no longer just a matter of internal importance—it’s a competitive advantage.

A Call to Action

As we face a challenging year with a decline in exports, we must seize the opportunity to build a stronger, more transparent industry. The global recognition of Professor Yunus and his brand image presents us with a unique chance to elevate the “Made in Bangladesh” label to new heights. However, this will only be possible if we commit to honesty and integrity in our reporting.

I am confident that the hardworking people in our Ready-Made Garment (RMG) sector will overcome these challenges and lead our industry to positive growth in the coming year. But for this to happen, we must ensure that the information being shared—whether through official channels or the media—is accurate and reflective of the true state of our industry.

Building a Stronger Industry Through Trust

As someone deeply involved in both the educational and professional aspects of the textile industry, I have seen firsthand the concerns and frustrations that arise from the discrepancies between reported information and reality. These concerns are not just limited to workers—they extend to students and future professionals who are observing the industry with a critical eye.

It is time for us to bridge the gap between perception and reality. By committing to honest communication, we can build a stronger, more resilient industry that not only meets the challenges of today but is also prepared for the opportunities of tomorrow.

I urge all industry leaders, including those in the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), and the Bangladesh Garment Buying House Association (BGBA), to prioritize transparency in their reporting. Let us work together to create a culture of honesty that will benefit our industry, our workers, and future generations.

May Allah SWT bless us all as we strive to build a brighter future for the textile and garment industry in Bangladesh.

MD Sala Uddin
Director, Reaz Garments
Head of Operations, Bunon

Fourth issue of Economic Intelligence Bangladesh launched with focus on RMG

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RMG Bangladesh
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Barriers at customs and a threatening energy crisis were identified as the biggest hurdles to smooth transition for the country’s largest export sector, readymade garments, as Bangladesh primes for graduation from least developed country (LDC) status in November 2026.

The findings were revealed in the newly-launched fourth issue of the Economic Intelligence Bangladesh (EIB), a product of The Business Standard in collaboration with DataSense, with a focus on RMG.

The latest issue titled “RMG: Racing Against Odds“ includes an in-depth survey that explores current challenges and those beyond the country’s graduation from the least developed country (LDC) status expected in November 2026.

Carried out in June 2024, the survey brings together the perspective of 20 leading RMG Enterprises collectively employing around 250,000 workers, about half of which are female.

Additionally, the issue reviews policy supports and incentives offered by successive governments that propelled the growth of the industry since its inception.

According to case studies conducted by our reporters, ESG compliance and automation are being adopted at increasing rates in the local industry, often with demotivating feedback.

This issue incorporates insights from research firm DataSense showing how the LDC graduation may impact the RMG sector beyond 2026, where Bangladesh needs to look at factors like price negotiation capability, lead time management, and shipment failure.

To access the latest issue of Economic Intelligence Bangladesh, visit the EIB website.

বৈশ্বিক ক্রেতাদের কাছ থেকে ইতিবাচক সাড়ায় উজ্জীবিত পোশাক শিল্প

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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যুক্তরাষ্ট্রের ইউএস পোলো, গ্যাপ, এক্সপ্রেসের মতো বড় কোম্পানিগুলো তাদের তাদের পোশাক সংগ্রহের পরিমাণ বাড়িয়েছে। এমনকি কোরিয়ার পোশাক ব্র্যান্ড বিওয়াইসি’র মতো নতুন কোম্পানিও এ খাতে যুক্ত হচ্ছে।

সম্প্রতি রাজনৈতিক অস্থিরতা সত্ত্বেও কিছু বৈশ্বিক ফ্যাশন ব্র্যান্ড বাংলাদেশ থেকে তাদের পোশাক সংগ্রহ বাড়িয়েছে। পোশাক খাত সংশ্লিষ্টরা মনে করছেন, ড. মুহম্মদ ইউনূস দেশের প্রধান উপদেষ্টা হিসেবে দায়িত্ব নেওয়ায় বাংলাদেশের ব্র্যান্ড ইমেজে বেড়েছে। 

সংশ্লিষ্ট ব্যক্তিরা বলছেন, যুক্তরাষ্ট্রের ইউএস পোলো, গ্যাপ, এক্সপ্রেসের মতো বড় কোম্পানিগুলো তাদের তাদের পোশাক সংগ্রহের পরিমাণ বাড়িয়েছে। এমনকি কোরিয়ার পোশাক ব্র্যান্ড বিওয়াইসি’র মতো নতুন কোম্পানিও এ খাতে যুক্ত হয়েছে।

বাংলাদেশের জায়ান্ট গ্রুপের ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালক ফারুক হাসান দ্য বিজনেস স্ট্যান্ডার্ডকে (টিবিএস) জানান, তার কোম্পানির সবচেয়ে বড় ক্রেতা হলো ইউএস পোলো। ইতোমধ্যে তারা ইউএস পোলোর কাছ থেকে প্রত্যাশার চেয়েও বড় ফরমায়েশ পেয়েছে। তাদের উৎপাদন ক্ষমতার ৪০ শতাংশই দখল করে আছে ইউএস পোলো। 

তিনি আরও বলেন, জুলাই মাসে ইন্টারনেট বন্ধ থাকায় তিনি তার কোম্পানির শীর্ষ কর্মকর্তাদের ইউএস পোলোর ঢাকা কার্যালয়ে পাঠান এবং তাদেরকে বাংলাদেশে চলমান পরিস্থিতি ব্যাখ্যা করেন। তাদের এ যোগাযোগের কারণে ক্রেতারা আস্থা রাখেন এবং আরো ফরমায়েশ পেতে সহায়তা করেন।

স্প্যারো গ্রুপের ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালক শোভন ইসলাম বলেছেন, তাদের তিনজন ক্রেতা ইতোমধ্যেই তাদের ফরমায়েশ বৃদ্ধি করেছেন। ইউএস পলো এবং গ্যাপ তাদের নিয়মিত ক্রেতা। অপরদিকে আরেক ক্রেতা এক্সপ্রেস দেউলিয়া অবস্থা কাটিয়ে ওঠার পর তারাও তাদের অর্ডার বাড়িয়েছে।   

মাসকো গ্রুপের সিনিয়র ম্যানেজার (মার্চেন্ডাইজিং) মো. শরাফত হোসেন সোহেল জানিয়েছেন, বাংলাদেশ থেকে প্রথমবারের মতো পণ্য সংগ্রহ করতে আগ্রহী একটি শীর্ষ কোরিয়ান ব্র্যান্ড। ইতোমধ্যে তারা মাসকোর কাছে তাদের পণ্য সম্পর্কে জানতে চেয়েছে। তিনি বলেন, “ওই ক্রেতার পক্ষ থেকে একটি দল এই সপ্তাহে আমাদের কার্যালয় পরিদর্শন করবে বলে জানিয়েছে।”

তিনি আরো বলেন, মাসকো গ্রুপ প্রতি মাসে বিশ্বের বিভিন্ন ব্যান্ডের জন্য  ১১ মিলিয়ন পিস গার্মেন্টস পণ্য তৈরি করে। তারা এখন পর্যন্ত কোনো চ্যালেঞ্জের সম্মুখীন হয়নি। ইতোমধ্যে কারখানাটি ইউরোপীয় দের জন্য পরবর্তী গ্রীষ্মের জন্য ফরমায়েশ নেওয়া শুরু করে দিয়েছে। 

ইন্ডাস্ট্রির সংশ্লিষ্ট ব্যক্তিরা জানিয়েছেন, তাদের কিছু ক্রেতা ইতিমধ্যে অধ্যাপক ইউনূসের নেতৃত্বাধীন অন্তবর্তীকালীন সরকারের প্রতি তাদের আস্থা প্রকাশ করেছেন। তারা এই দেশের একটি সুন্দর ভবিষ্যতের ব্যাপারে খুবই আশাবাদী।”

ক্রেতাদের ইতিবাচক দৃষ্টিভঙ্গি

অন্যান্য বিখ্যাত ব্র্যান্ড এবং ক্রেতাদের মধ্যে যেমন জি-স্টার র, এম এন্ড এস, এইচ অ্যান্ড এম এবং ইনডিটেক্স পণ্য সরবরাহে দেরি হওয়ায় কোনো জরিমানা আরোপ করেনি। 

ব্লুমবার্গের এক প্রতিবেদনে এইচঅ্যান্ডএম এবি কোম্পানিগুলোর সুইডিশ বিক্রেতারা বাংলাদেশি সরবরাহকারীদের জানিয়েছেন, আন্দোলনের কারণে বন্ধ থাকা কারখানাগুলোর কাছে তারা কোনো ছাড় চাইবেনা।  

এইচঅ্যান্ডএম-এর একজন শীর্ষ কর্মকর্তা নাম প্রকাশ না করার শর্তে টিবিএসকে বলেন, “আমাদের সংগ্রহ পরিকল্পনায় কোনো পরিবর্তন হয়নি এবং আমরা কোনো অর্ডার সরিয়ে নিচ্ছি না।”

এইচঅ্যান্ডএম-এর সাথে সুর মিলিয়ে, ইনডিটেক্সের ঢাকা কার্যালয়ের শীর্ষ কর্মকর্তা জানান, তাদের ব্যবসা স্বাভাবিকভাবে চলছে এবং এখন পর্যন্ত কোনো অর্ডার স্থানান্তর বা ছাড়ের চাপ দেওয়া হয়নি।

তবে কিছু রপ্তানিকারক চলমান পরিস্থিতি নিয়ে কিছুটা উদ্বিগ্ন। প্যাসিফিক জিন্স গ্রুপের ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালক সৈয়দ মোহাম্মদ তানভীর বলেন, বৈশ্বিক ব্র্যান্ড এবং ক্রেতাদের প্রতিনিধিরা কিছুটা উদ্বিগ্ন কারণ রাজনৈতিক পরিস্থিতি এখনো সম্পূর্ণ স্বাভাবিক নয়। তিনি উদ্বেগ প্রকাশ করে বলেন, এ পরিস্থিতির কারণে ভবিষ্যতে ফরমায়েশ অন্য কোথাও চলে যেতে পারে। তবে তিনি আশা প্রকাশ করেছেন, অস্থায়ী সরকার ক্রেতাদের আশ্বস্ত করার জন্য বার্তা দেবে। 

কিছু রপ্তানিকারক ফরমায়েশ হারাতে পারে

শিল্প সংশ্লিষ্ট ব্যক্তিরা জানিয়েছেন, বেক্সিমকো এবং নাসার মতো কিছু কোম্পানি তাদের ফরমায়েশ হারাতে পারে। কারণ উৎখাত হওয়া সরকারের সঙ্গে এসব কোম্পানির সম্পর্ক ও এদের বিরুদ্ধে আর্থিক অনিয়মের অভিযোগ থাকায় তাদের থেকে ফরমায়েশ সরিয়ে নেওয়া হতে পারে। 

সম্প্রতি এক আলোচনায় থাকা হামিম গ্রুপের ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালক একেএ আজাদ জানিয়েছেন যে বর্তমান আইনশৃঙ্খলা পরিস্থিতির কারণে তাদের প্রায় ২০% অর্ডার ইতোমধ্যেই অন্য প্রতিযোগী দেশে চলে গেছে।

শিল্প নেতারা তিনটি প্রধান চ্যালেঞ্জের কথা উল্লেখ করেছেন যা এখনও তাদের তাড়া করছে। সেগুলো হলো বিদ্যুৎ ও গ্যাসের ঘাটতি, বন্দরে এবং বিমানবন্দরে কনটেইনার জট।

যদি অস্থায়ী সরকার এগুলো নিয়ন্ত্রণ করতে সক্ষম হয়, তবে পোশাক শিল্প বৈশ্বিক বাজারে তাদের শেয়ারও বাড়াতে সক্ষম হবে বলে তারা আশা করেন।

Apparel exports to EU decline by 4.98% in H1‘24

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RMG Bangladesh
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The import of apparel items from Bangladesh by European Union (EU) countries declined by 4.98% in value to 8.72 billion euros in January-July (H1) 2024, which was 9.18 billion euros in the mentioned period of 2023, according to the recent data of the Eurostat, the statistical office of the EU. 

Most of the major apparel suppliers to the EU faced negative growth due to lower demand caused by high inflation and global economic turmoil.

Moreover, exporters said that Bangladesh has been severely hit because of the erosion of its competitive advantages due to high utility costs, disruptions in gas and energy supplies, and a recent wage hike. 

The Eurostat data stated that the RMG imports by the EU from different countries in H1 of 2024 fell by 6.03% to 38.47 billion euros, which was 40.94 billion euros in the same period of 2023. 

The data also shows an overall reduction of 4.98% in Bangladesh’s apparel exports was slightly better than the global average decline of 6.03% in the EU’s apparel imports.

According to exporters, global inflation and rising interest rates reduced consumer demand, which led to a stockpile of products in retail outlets of EU buyers and prevented them from placing newer orders. 

Among the major competitors of Bangladesh, the data showed that apparel imports by the EU from China in January-June of 2024 declined by 7.23% to 9.16 billion euros, which was 9.88 billion euros in H1 of 2023.

However, China remained as the top apparel exporter to the EU in terms of value but Bangladesh’s position remained unchanged as the highest RMG exporter in the market in H1 of 2024 in terms of volume. 

Apparel imports by the EU from Turkey in H1 of 2024 also witnessed a negative growth of 10.95% to 4.59 billion euros, which was 5.15 billion euros in the same period of 2023. 

India’s RMG exports to the EU in January-July of 2024 fell by 4.53% to 2.32 billion euros compared with those of 2.43 billion euros in H1 of 2023, the EU data stated.

Fetching a negative growth of 6.16%, Vietnam exported apparel items worth 1.7 billion euros in H1 of 2024, lower from 1.81 billion euros in the mentioned period of 2023. 

Bangladesh’s knitwear exports to the EU in the first half of 2024 stood at 4.98 billion euros while those of China were 4.51 billion euros.

Bangladesh’s woven garment exports to the EU in January-June of 2024 stood at 3.74 billion euros against China’s exports of 4.65 billion euros in the period.

Mohammad Hatem, president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), said that one of the main reasons Bangladesh is lagging behind is because of the lead time.

He also said that factories have been unable to utilize their entire production capacity due to the continuous power and gas problems and they have also had difficulties in obtaining raw materials on time, which has resulted in delays of an extra 20 to 25 days in the production and shipment of the goods.

Bangladesh had seen negative growth in the US and UK markets in addition to the EU market, he went on saying that although figures from the Export Promotion Bureau may have indicated development, actual results were quite different.

The exporters also said that they hope that the exports would recover in the coming months if the political situation stabilizes.

Fetching a negative growth of 20.65%, Bangladesh earned 17.38 billion euros from the EU countries, the EU, the largest export destination of Bangladesh for its apparel items, which was 21.91 billion euros in 2022.

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