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BGMEA turning to heritage fashion items to meet export target

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RMG Bangladesh
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The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) wants to achieve the target to export $100 billion worth of garments by 2030 by developing and selling heritage fashion products to international clothing retailers and brands.

Heritage fashion encompasses locally-produced fabrics or garments based on the cultural heritage of a country. In Bangladesh, jamdani, khadi, and muslin, among others, fall into that category.

Last year, Bangladesh exported garment items (woven and knitted items) worth $46.99 billion but the contribution of heritage fashion products was very low.

The BGMEA has been trying to diversify the export items for the past few years to achieve the $100 billion export target.

To that end, the trade body has been diversifying fibres, yarns, garment items, and markets.

It has also diversified garment items from cotton to non-cotton fibre to get better prices from international retailers and brands.

The use of non-cotton fibres has been growing gradually, with many local garment exporters concentrating on the export of garments made from man-made fibre in recent years, said BGMEA President Faruque Hassan at a press conference held at the BGMEA office in Dhaka.

The export of local heritage fashion products has also been growing gradually as international consumers are expressing an interest in fusion fashion, a combination of two or more cultures in terms of styling.

Hassan said local heritage fashion products were not used in the making of coats, jackets, or different woven and knitted items in the past.

However, after providing extended training to professional weavers, workers, factory owners, and exporters, local jamdani, khadi and muslin fabrics are now being used in the production of garment items.

As a result of this high-value addition, international retailers and brands are paying more for those garments while consumers are also paying more to buy the relatively more expensive items, the BGMEA chief added.

However, Hassan, could not say exactly how much local heritage items contributed to exports.

He only said the export was growing and that some local garment factories were manufacturing expensive jackets and other garment items from fabrics such as jamdani, khadi and muslin.

The Freight on Board (FoB) prices of the garment items made from those fabrics start at $100 but can go up to a few hundred dollars, Hassan said.

As an example, Hassan said when Bangladesh started sending garment items to Japan nearly a decade ago, many thought it would stall at a certain point as Japanese buyers are very particular and inspect the quality of garment items piece-by-piece and do not compromise with quality.

Now, Bangladesh exports more than $1.6 billion worth of garment items to Japan, which is the single largest export destination for local apparel among Asian nations and also among all non-traditional markets.

Similarly, the export of heritage fashion items will also lay the foundation for a big jump in exports in the near future as the response from international retailers and brands has been very good so far while prices are also better than for other products, the BGMEA chief added.

To grab a larger market share of such expensive garment items, the BGMEA organised a three-day trade fair at the BGMEA office in the capital’s Uttara. The fair began yesterday and will continue till February 20. Around 40 stalls are exhibiting their products at the fair.

Walmart plans increasing sourcing from Bangladesh

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RMG Bangladesh
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Walmart is willing to increase sourcing from Bangladesh. Andrea Albright, Executive Vice-President (Sourcing) of Walmart stated this during a recent meeting with Salman F Rahman, the Prime Minister’s adviser on Private Industries and Investment, at Rahman’s office in capital Dhaka.

Figure: Walmart plans to enhance procurement considering Bangladesh’s attractiveness as a profitable sourcing destination. 

Walmart plans to enhance procurement considering Bangladesh’s attractiveness as a profitable sourcing destination.
Albright noted that Walmart has historically sourced clothing from Bangladesh, although there was a brief drop in supply during the COVID-19 outbreak.

She expressed confidence about the near future expansion into other product categories as well as an increase in the number of clothing products imported from Bangladesh.

Paul Dyck, Walmart’s Vice-President for global government affairs and business diplomacy, as well as other high-ranking officials, attended the meeting with the company’s executive vice-president of sourcing.

For his part, Walmart’s advisor to Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina pushed the company to source more goods from Bangladesh, including electronics, food items, packaged spices, jute products, and manufactured clothing.

Additionally, Salman F Rahman underscored the global compliance standards maintained by Bangladesh’s garment manufacturing units, emphasizing enhanced workplace safety measures even as he noted that many factories have met the world’s highest compliance standards, signifying the industry’s commitment to quality and safety.

Albright noted that Walmart has historically sourced clothing from Bangladesh, although there was a brief drop in supply during the COVID-19 outbreak, and she stated her confidence about the near future expansion into other product categories as well as an increase in the number of clothing products imported from Bangladesh.

BGMEA strives for diversifying exports with heritage clothing

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has taken an initiative to promote local heritage fashion apparels in the global market as part of its efforts to diversify the export basket. 

Local apparel makers hope that it will help them achieve the $100 billion garment export target by 2030. 

Bangladesh exported garment items worth nearly $47 billion where contribution of heritage fashion like jamdani, khadi, muslin and mixed local garment items was insignificant. 

 Lately, the apex trade body for the garment exporters has been trying to diversify their export items in line with the export target. 

Their diversification ranges from the selection of fibre, garment items and yarn to markets. 

They are also trying to switch to man-made fibre clothing from the cotton apparels, which are still dominating the exports, in a bid to get more prices from the international retailers and brands. 

“As a result, the international retailers and brands are giving higher price for those high-value garment items as the consumers are ready to pay more on them” 

Faruque Hassan, BGMEA president

“The percentage of the use of the non-cotton fibre has been growing gradually as many of the local garment exporters have concentrated on the man-made fibre garment export in recent years,” said BGMEA President Faruque Hassan at a press conference at the BGMEA office in the capital on Sunday. 

The export of local heritage fashion items has also been gradually rising as the international consumers are increasingly showing interest for the local fusion fashion, he added.  

Local heritage fashion would not be blended with the making of RMG products such as coats, jackets, and different woven and knit items. 

However, after a long training to the professional weavers, workers, factory owners and exporters, local jamdani, khadi and muslin fabrics are now being used in making those. 

“As a result, the international retailers and brands are giving higher price for those high-value garment items as the consumers are ready to pay more on them,” the BGMEA president further said. 

However, Hassan could not exactly say how much of such fusion products are being exported from the country. 

The Freight on Board (FoB) prices of the garment made from the heritage fabric starts from $100 to few hundred dollars, Hassan said. 

For grabbing international market for those high-value garment items, the BGMEA has organised a three-day fair at its Uttara office complex from Sunday. 

Some 40 local entrepreneurs are exhibiting their heritage apparel products at the fair. 

“When Bangladesh started garment exports to Japan, many feared that the shipment will get stalled to a certain point as Japanese buyers are very choosy and meticulous in quality inspection,” the BGMEA president said. 

Over the journey of nearly one decade, Bangladesh’s clothing exports surpassed $1.6 billion to Japan, which is the single largest export destination among all the non-traditional markets, he noted. 

Bangladesh’s leap from poverty to textile powerhouse offers lessons for countries in Africa

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RMG Bangladesh
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Bangladesh’s economy was in ruins in the early 1970s. It had just won its independence from Pakistan in a nine-month war. It emerged as a very poor, densely populated country largely dependent on jute production and subsistence farming but unable to feed its people. In 1974, it fell into a devastating famine. A World Bank economist visiting the western part of the country around that time described it “like the morning after a nuclear attack.”

Then, less than a decade later, a government campaign to attract foreign investment paid off and Bangladesh set off on a path that would transform it from an agricultural economy into an industrial powerhouse. Textile and apparel manufacturing sparked what can only be described as a miraculous economic and social rebound that developing countries today try to emulate.

Bangladesh’s shift to market-oriented policies, which included privatization of industries and trade liberalization, led to a surge in garment exports. Ready-to-wear clothing became the engine for growth and cotton tee-shirts, pants, pullovers and denim became its sweet spot. During the past 10 years, Bangladesh has grown its economy into the 35th largest in the world, cut its poverty rate in half and put millions of its citizens to work. In the decade before the COVID-19 pandemic, the economy grew at a blistering 7% annually and per capita gross domestic product (GDP) rose to about $2,500, surpassing even neighbouring India.

The next phase in the apparel industry

That kind of track record is the envy of up-and-coming African economies today. There is no “one-size-fits-all” recipe for industrializing but countries with large, low-cost workforces, ample renewable resources and preferential trade agreements have most of what it takes to build the next generation textile and apparel power. And – unlike Bangladesh – Africa has the added advantage of homegrown cotton. To put that into perspective, in 2022, Bangladesh manufactured 20% of the world’s exported cotton t-shirts – valued at $9 billion – even though it grew less than 2% of the cotton that it stamped the “made in Bangladesh” label on.

It’s perhaps a happy coincidence that Africa’s interest in expanding its apparel industry coincides with Bangladesh’s ambition to diversify away from single-sector dependency. Ultimately, Bangladesh aims to graduate into a high-income country by 2041. Right now, though, 84% of Bangladeshi export revenues come from apparel alone. That’s thanks to a remarkably successful industrialization policy that included, for example, allowing duty-free importation of machinery in export zones and negotiating preferential trade agreements with the United States and Europe. The strategy, for which Bangladesh is renowned, led to the creation of a sophisticated garment sector that employs four million people in more than 3,500 factories and exports goods worth $43 billion to 167 countries.

Cutting, sewing and assembling clothing is hard and tedious and export-led growth models relying on cheap labour don’t last forever. In many respects, it’s time for Bangladesh to pass the apparel ready-to-wear torch – as many countries have done in the past – and climb up the value chain into more complex clothing lines and sophisticated industries that can generate greater wealth and opportunity. Inclusivity has been at the heart of Bangladesh’s success and is baked into its next phase of planning. The apparel industry is dominated by a largely female labour force who have benefited from the economy’s growth far from the factory floor.

Sustainable growth

I witnessed that firsthand when I visited Bangladesh in October 2023. Programmes such as Better Work and Gender Equality and Returns – a collaboration between the International Finance Corporation (IFC) and the International Labour Organization – have improved working conditions in factories, improved gender diversity and created managerial opportunities for women. The societal impact of this shared prosperity is profound. Three-quarters of Bangladeshi women are literate; they are more likely to receive an education, get a higher-paying job and have healthier children than most of their regional neighbours. With a bit of help from the international community, the social and sustainability benefits of development will transfer to the next cluster of garment manufacturing countries.

It’s a development pattern we’ve seen before. Bangladesh’s creation story began much the same way. In 1978, the Bangladeshi company Desh Garments Ltd and South Korea’s Daewoo signed a collaborative manufacturing agreement. Korean companies were outgrowing the textile and apparel industry. They recognized that Bangladesh’s cheaper labour force could help them expand their international reach with affordable clothing brands while they concentrated on expanding into more diverse, complex and higher-value industries. The arrangement was a win-win. Bangladesh’s GDP grew from $18 billion in 1980 to $460 billion in 2022 and it is today among the world’s most important textile and apparel exporters.

Now, IFC is helping to accelerate what may be the next great industrial transformation. This evolution looks southward toward Africa, where circumstances are ripe for sustainable and inclusive industrialization. Programmes such as the African Growth and Opportunity Act already provide duty-free access to US markets and businesses in Kenya, Egypt, Ghana, Ethiopia, Madagascar and others and have become part of the supply chain for Tommy Hilfiger, Uniqlo, Children’s Place, Calvin Klein and Walmart. In Morocco, which is just a short hop from Europe, companies are manufacturing for brands such as Zara to supply the European market.

To support this historic supply chain transition, IFC sponsored a roadshow in June 2023 that brought African manufacturers to Bangladesh and Sri Lanka to explore opportunities for cross-regional manufacturing partnerships. Already, some deals have been arranged. Africa, I believe, is poised for many more investments that can drive sustainable, resilient and profitable economic development and perhaps spark a new era of Tiger economies in the Global South.

Disclaimer: This article was written by Femi Akinrebiyo and first appeared on the website of World Economic Forum.

The author is a global manager for Manufacturing Investment & Trade Supplier Finance at International Finance Corporation.

Sustainable Apparel Coalition to host ‘Manufacturer Forum’ in Bangladesh

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) will host its first “Manufacturer Forum: Dhaka” on 6 March in the capital.

Reflecting the theme “Catalyst for Change,” this event is set to underscore the role of manufacturers in setting and achieving goals that are transforming the consumer goods industry, highlighting the unique challenges they face and providing support for collaborative solutions, reads a press release.

“We are thrilled to host our inaugural Manufacturer Forum of 2024 in Bangladesh and privileged that such an important sourcing hub, known for its craft and expertise, will be the first place we will showcase a new era for the SAC,” said Andrew Martin, executive vice president, SAC, who will give the opening address.

“Solving complex sustainability challenges requires a holistic approach that depends on data, tools, and stakeholder collaboration. Manufacturers are the engine that drives the consumer goods industry and this event in Dhaka provides invaluable opportunities for connection, learning, and support as we work together to take collective action for industry progress,” Andrew further added.

Over 200 attendees are expected at the forum, where they are supposed to gain insights into the newly launched Manufacturer Climate Action Program (MCAP), the Higg Index suite of tools, and critical policy developments.

Participants can also receive hands-on training and get certified in setting Science-Based Targets (SBTs) for decarbonisation, as well as join interactive workshops on completing the Higg Facilities Environmental Module (FEM) 4.0, health and safety remediation plans, and workers’ rights.

In 2023, the SAC announced the return of this event after a hiatus of in-person events amid the pandemic. 

Since then, the SAC held its July forum in Shenzhen, China followed by Bangalore, India in December. 

The events bring together manufacturers – who are on the front lines of critical action – with business leaders and stakeholders to discuss the future of sustainability, supply chain compliance, verification, policy alignment, and more.

“SAC’s Manufacturer Forums are a valuable opportunity to connect and take action on the goals that unite us,” said Arindama Banerjee, associate director of client services/responsible sourcing at ELEVATE – An LRQA Company, the industry leader in sustainability and supply chain services globally. 

“We are thrilled to participate again this year,” he added.

Vidhura Ralapanawe, executive vice president of Epic Group and SAC board director, and Laxmikant Jawale, regional lead of South Asia & Southeast Asia in Apparel Impact Institute (Aii), will speak at the event. 

Additional speakers include SAC global team members and SAC members Primark, ELEVATE, an LRQA Company, and CYCLO® recycled fibres, among others. 

Representatives from organizations with which SAC collaborates, including Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE), Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH, and the Social & Labour Convergence Program (SLCP), among others, will also present.

The event will be held alongside the Sustainable Apparel Forum, which will be hosted by the Bangladesh Apparel Exchange on 5 March, reads a press release. 

The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) is a multi-stakeholder, worldwide non-profit alliance for the apparel and textile industry.

Garment makers seek policy on virtual marketplaces

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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Garment manufacturers have sought a policy from the government on virtual marketplaces, saying they cannot enter into deals with international clothing retailers and traders in absence of dedicated international payment gateways for them.

The existing policy on online marketplaces is limited to only domestic markets, although e-commerce platforms are the main tool for sales of goods both at home and abroad, they said.

In this age of virtual connectivity, people of all ages are spending more time in the virtual world, said Faruque Hassan, president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), in a statement yesterday.

For the fashion industry, it has created new opportunities since consumers are increasingly becoming inclined towards digital shopping, he said.

The disruption in global fashion retailing and distribution caused by digital technologies and applications is both a challenge and opportunity, he added.

“In fact, we have well realised the significance of the virtual marketplace during the lockdown periods,” Hassan said.

Limitations arising from the regulatory framework, particularly in the realm of cross-border transactions and foreign currency policies, serve as an impediment for the apparel industry to tap into the burgeoning global e-commerce market, he said.

The National Digital Commerce Policy of 2018 only governs the domestic market, and does not make any explicit policy framework addressing international e-commerce, he said.

The absence of global payment gateways, challenges in securing working capital financing, cumbersome export processing for small orders, and an impractical return policy, where returns are categorised as imports, constitute substantial impediments to establishing a robust digital marketplace, said Hassan.

It also underscores the virtual marketplace’s potential to serve as a central hub for stock lots, streamlining connections among local producers, traders, and international buyers in emerging markets, he said.

“I hope the policymakers and entrepreneurs will make the most of it to get to the next step, and it may require further studies on specific issues including logistics and distribution, branding, and foreign exchange and revenue policies,” he added.

“If we want to maintain our position in the global competition, we need to develop a comprehensive business model,” said Hassan.

Earlier, at a press conference on January 25, the BGMEA unveiled the findings of a study on virtual marketplaces. Hassan called on the government to take steps focusing on the study’s findings.

The study said the idea of fast fashion is to very quickly design, manufacture, and produce high volumes of clothing, replicating any ongoing trend and constantly updating the shelves of retail stores.

Across most apparel categories, consumers are now wearing each clothing article for only half the duration they did 20 years ago, it said.

Now, fast fashion clothing items are updated weekly by brands such as Zara, H&M, and Topshop, among others, it added.

Before the widespread adoption of fast fashion, clothing was produced on a seasonal basis. New clothes were released in fall, winter, spring and summer, said the study.

In contrast to fast fashion, seasonal clothing takes about a year to go from a concept to the hands of a customer. It takes about 6 to 8 months to conceptualise a design and prepare the clothing articles for production, it said.

Then, it takes another 2 to 3 months for the finished clothing to reach the hands of a customer. This one-year lead time is inefficient for today’s consumers, as fast fashion requires trendy clothes to reach customers within weeks, it added.

Hence, cost-efficiency is not the only requirement anymore. Faster production and shorter lead times are needed to stay competitive in the industry, said the study. News Sources : thedailystar

মে মাসে ঘুরে দাঁড়াতে পারে পোশাক রপ্তানি

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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করোনা মহামারি ও রাশিয়া-ইউক্রেন যুদ্ধের বিপর্যয় থেকে ধীরে ধীরে চাঙ্গা হচ্ছে বিশ্ব অর্থনীতি। বাংলাদেশের তৈরি পোশাক কারখানাগুলো বিদেশি ক্রেতাদের কাছ থেকে সাড়া পাওয়ায় আগামী মে থেকে দেশের পোশাক রপ্তানি ঘুরে দাঁড়াতে পারে বলে আশা করা হচ্ছে।

চলতি অর্থবছরের রপ্তানি তথ্যে পোশাকের রপ্তানি পুনরুজ্জীবিত হওয়ার লক্ষণ এরই মধ্যে দেখা যাচ্ছে।

রপ্তানি উন্নয়ন ব্যুরোর (ইপিবি) তথ্য অনুসারে, চলতি ২০২৩-২৪ অর্থবছরের জুলাই থেকে জানুয়ারিতে পোশাক রপ্তানি তিন দশমিক ৪৫ শতাংশ বেড়ে দুই হাজার ৮৩৬ কোটি ডলার হয়েছে।

যুক্তরাষ্ট্রে খুচরা বাণিজ্যের সবচেয়ে বড় সংগঠন ন্যাশনাল রিটেইল ফেডারেশনের (এনআরএফ) প্রেসিডেন্ট ও প্রধান নির্বাহী ম্যাথিউ শায় গত সপ্তাহে বলেছিলেন যে, খুচরা বিক্রেতারা ছুটি থেকে ফিরেছেন।

তিনি আশা করেন যে এবার বিক্রির প্রবৃদ্ধি তিন শতাংশ থেকে চার শতাংশ হবে।

মহামারিতে ক্ষতিগ্রস্ত বছরগুলোর তুলনায় টেকসই প্রবৃদ্ধি দেখা যাচ্ছে বলে মনে করেন তিনি।

তার মতে, এই প্রবৃদ্ধি এটাই প্রমাণ করে যে খুচরা বিক্রেতারা ক্রেতাদের প্রত্যাশা পূরণ করছে। এর মাধ্যমে মার্কিন অর্থনীতির ক্ষমতা দেখা যাচ্ছে।

নারায়ণগঞ্জের প্লামি ফ্যাশনস লিমিটেডের ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালক মো. ফজলুল হক দ্য ডেইলি স্টারকে বলেন, ‘ইউরোপ ও যুক্তরাষ্ট্রের খুচরা বিক্রেতা ও ব্র্যান্ডগুলো থেকে খোঁজ-খবর বাড়ছে। এটা এই ইঙ্গিত দেয় যে রপ্তানি উল্লেখযোগ্যভাবে না বাড়লেও তা কিছুটা হলেও বাড়তে পারে।’

আগামী মে থেকে রপ্তানি বাড়তে পারে বলে আশা করেন তিনি।

বাংলাদেশ পোশাক প্রস্তুতকারক ও রপ্তানিকারক সমিতির (বিজিএমইএ) সাবেক সভাপতি আনোয়ার-উল আলম চৌধুরী ডেইলি স্টারকে বলেন, ‘গত বছরের সেপ্টেম্বর ও অক্টোবরে খুচরা বিক্রেতা ও ব্র্যান্ডগুলোর কাছ থেকে কার্যাদেশ কম ছিল।’

তিনি আরও বলেন, ‘যেহেতু কার্যাদেশ এখন বাড়ছে, আশা করা যায় আগামী এপ্রিল বা মের দিকে এটি আরও বাড়বে। রপ্তানি আগের মতো চাঙা হবে। কারণ ইউরোপ ও যুক্তরাষ্ট্র বৈশ্বিক অর্থনৈতিক মন্দা ও মূল্যস্ফীতি থেকে ঘুরে দাঁড়াচ্ছে।’

নাম প্রকাশে অনিচ্ছুক ইউরোপের এক বড় ক্রেতা ডেইলি স্টারকে বলেন, ‘আমাদের প্রতিষ্ঠান কার্যাদেশ উল্লেখযোগ্য পরিমাণে না বাড়ালেও তা কমানোর সুযোগ নেই।’

ডাচ ডিজাইনিং প্রতিষ্ঠান জি-স্টারের রিজিওনাল অপারেশন ম্যানেজার শফিউর রহমান মনে করেন, আন্তর্জাতিক খুচরা বিক্রেতা ও ব্র্যান্ডগুলোর পূর্বাভাস অনুযায়ী আগামী জুন থেকে তৈরি পোশাকের বাজার চাঙা হতে পারে।

তিনি বলেন, ‘বিশ্ব অর্থনীতি ঘুরে দাঁড়ানোয় ২০২৫ সাল পোশাক শিল্পের জন্য ভালো বছর হবে।’

রপ্তানিকারকরা মনে করছেন, পাশ্চাত্যে মূল্যস্ফীতি কমে যাওয়ায় এবং মানুষ খরচ করতে শুরু করায় আগামী মাসগুলোয় তৈরি পোশাকের চালান বাড়বে।

বাংলাদেশ থেকে তৈরি পোশাক কেনার জন্য ক্রেতারা বেশ খোঁজখবর নিচ্ছেন বলে ডেইলি স্টারকে জানিয়েছেন বিজিএমইএ সভাপতি ফারুক হাসান।

নভেম্বর ও ডিসেম্বরে উৎসবের মৌসুমে বেশি বিক্রি হওয়ায় স্টোরগুলোয় মজুদ কমেছে।

ফারুক হাসান বলেন, ‘মজুদ কমে যাওয়ায় খুচরা বিক্রেতা ও ব্র্যান্ডগুলো কাজের অর্ডার দিচ্ছে।’

তিনি মনে করেন, দেশের পোশাক নির্মাতা ও সরবরাহকারীরা বছরের পর বছর ধরে বাজার ও পণ্যে বৈচিত্র্য আনছেন। এখন তারা এর সুফল পাচ্ছেন।

তিনি বলেন, ‘অনেক ক্ষেত্রে স্থানীয় সরবরাহকারীরা দামি পোশাক তৈরি করায় ক্রেতাদের কাছ থেকে সেগুলোর ভালো দাম পাচ্ছেন।’

পোশাক সরবরাহকারীরা কমপ্লায়েন্সের ক্ষেত্রেও উন্নতি করেছে। পরিবেশবান্ধব উদ্যোগের ফলে এই খাত ও দেশের ভাবমূর্তি উজ্জ্বল হচ্ছে।

বিজিএমইএ প্রধান আরও বলেন, ‘বাংলাদেশ থেকে পোশাক কেনার ক্ষেত্রে ক্রেতাদের আস্থা বাড়ছে।’ News Sources :bangla.thedailystar

Garment exports to rebound in May as global economy on the mend

POST BY
RMG Bangladesh
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Garment export from Bangladesh may witness a strong rebound from May as suppliers are receiving a lot of inquiries from international buyers as the global economy recovers from the severe fallout of the Covid-19 pandemic and the Russia-Ukraine war.

Signs of revival in garment shipments are already being seen in the export data of the current fiscal year.

In the July-January period of 2023-24, garment export grew 3.45 percent year-on-year to $28.36 billion, according to data from the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB).

Matthew Shay, president and CEO of the National Retail Federation (NRF), the largest retail trade association in the US, said in a statement last week that retailers were coming off a successful holiday season.

Sales growth is expected to be 3 percent to 4 percent, reflecting a more sustainable rate of growth than seen during the pandemic-hit years, he said.

He added that the growth reflected the fact that retailers were accommodating the expectations of consumers and demonstrated the underlying strength of the US economy.

“Inquiries from international retailers and brands, especially from Europe and the US, are increasing. This indicates that export may revive to some extent, if not significantly,” said Md Fazlul Hoque, managing director of Narayanganj-based Plummy Fashions Ltd.

“I am hopeful that exports will revive from May, but it may not be that significant.”

Anwar-ul Alam Chowdhury, a former president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), says inquiries from retailers and brands were low in September and October last year.

“As they are now increasing, it is expected that work orders will pick up around April or May and export will reach the previous levels as the economies of major export destinations like Europe and the US are rebounding from the global economic slowdown and historic inflationary pressures.”

A major European buyer, asking not to be named, said although his company would not increase work orders significantly, there was no chance of reducing orders.

Shafiur Rahman, regional operations manager of G-Star, a Dutch designer clothing company, thinks the revival may start from June as per projections by international retailers and brands.

“2025 will be a good year for the garment business as the world economy is rebounding.”

According to exporters, the shipment of garment items would increase in the coming months because inflation has fallen in the West and people are spending.

Moreover, buyers are sending a lot of inquiries to buy goods from Bangladesh, said BGMEA President Faruque Hassan.

Old inventories at stores have been reduced on the back of higher sales during the festival season in November and December like Christmas.

“Since the stock of clothing items has reduced, retailers and brands are placing a lot of work orders,” Hassan added.

He said local manufacturers and suppliers have diversified in terms of both markets and products over the years and are now reaping the rewards of such initiatives.

“In many cases, local suppliers are getting premium prices from buyers as they produce high valued-added items.”

Garment suppliers have also made improvements in terms of compliance, which, coupled with green initiatives, has brightened the image of the sector and the country.

“This increases buyers’ confidence when sourcing garment items from Bangladesh,” the BGMEA chief added. News Sources : bangla.thedailystar

গর্ভবতী হলে ছাঁটাই!

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RMG Bangladesh
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পোশাককর্মীর মাতৃত্বকালীন ছুটি কেবল আইনেই

একজন মায়ের কাছে পৃথিবীর সবচেয়ে বড় উপহার তার নাড়িছেঁড়া ধন সন্তান। দুর্ভাগ্যজনক হলেও সত্য, সেই সন্তানের স্বপ্ন দেখলেই রুটি রুজিতে আঘাত পড়ে এ দেশের পোশাক শ্রমিকদের। মাতৃত্বকালীন ছুটি তো দেওয়াই হয় না, করা হয় চাকরিচ্যুত। কাগজেকলমে কমপ্লায়েন্স মেনে ক্রেতাদের কাছ থেকে অর্ডার নেওয়া হলেও অন্ধকারে থেকে যায় পোশাক শ্রমিকদের মা হওয়ার করুণ গল্প। গার্মেন্ট শ্রমিক রুনু আক্তার তাদেরই একজন। গাজীপুর মহানগরীর গাছা থানা এলাকার টি আর জেড গার্মেন্টের শ্রমিক রুনু আক্তার গত বছরের অক্টোবরে মাতৃত্বকালীন ছুটির আবেদন করে চাকরিচ্যুত হয়েছেন। আর কোনো প্রতিষ্ঠানে যোগদানের সুযোগ পাননি তিনি। ২০২৩ সালের সেপ্টেম্বরে টি আর জেড গার্মেন্টের ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালকের কাছে মাতৃত্বকালীন সুবিধা পাওয়ার আবেদন করেছিলেন তিনি। তার আগে ১৪ সেপ্টেম্বর গর্ভবতী হওয়ার বিষয়টি জানিয়ে কারখানার ওয়েলফেয়ার কর্মকর্তা শাহনাজের কাছে মেডিকেল রিপোর্ট জমা দিয়েছিলেন। তখন থেকেই রুনুর বিরুদ্ধে ষড়যন্ত্র শুরু হয়। গত বছরের ২৪ সেপ্টেম্বর সকালে কাজে যোগদানের জন্য টি আর জেড গার্মেন্টের গেট থেকে নিরাপত্তা কর্মী জানিয়ে দেন রুনুকে মানবসম্পদ ও প্রশাসনিক ব্যবস্থাপক চাকরিচ্যুত করেছেন। চাকরিচ্যুত করার চিঠি ডাকযোগে বাড়িতে পাঠিয়ে দেওয়া হয়েছে বলে জানান নিরাপত্তা কর্মী। পাঁচ বছরের বেশি সময় চাকরি করার পরও রুনুর ভাগ্যে জোটেনি মাতৃত্বকালীন ছুটি। উল্টো করা হয়েছে চাকরিচ্যুত। গতকাল রুনু আক্তারের সঙ্গে যোগাযোগের চেষ্টা করা হলে তার স্বামী মো. সাদ্দাম হোসেন বাংলাদেশ প্রতিদিনকে বলেন, আমার স্ত্রী রুনু আক্তার গর্ভবর্তী হওয়ার পর শ্রম আইন মোতাবেক গার্মেন্ট মালিকের কাছে মাতৃত্বকালীন ছুটির আবেদন করেছিল। কর্তৃপক্ষ সেই আবেদন গ্রহণ না করে উল্টো কারখানার গেট থেকে নিরাপত্তা কর্মী রুনুকে জানিয়ে দেয় যে, তাকে চাকরিচ্যুত করা হয়েছে। রাজধানীর আশকোনা দক্ষিণখান এলাকায় এটিএস জিন্টস ওয়্যার প্রাইভেট লিমিটেডে অপারেটরের সহকারী হিসেবে কাজ করতেন (ছদ¥নাম) নিলুফা বেগম। গত বছর গর্ভবতী হওয়ার পর কর্তৃপক্ষ নিলুফাকে কাজে আসতে নিষেধ করেন। মাতৃত্বকালীন সুযোগ-সুবিধা তো দূরে থাক, ওই মাসের বেতন-ভাতাও পাননি নিলুফা। এ বিষয়ে প্রতিকার চেয়ে কলকারখানা ও প্রতিষ্ঠান পরিদর্শন অধিদফতরের মহাপরিচালকের কাছে আবেদন করেছিলেন তিনি ছাড়াও আরও দুজন শ্রমিক। তাতে কোনো কাজ হয়নি। একাধিক নারী শ্রমিকের সঙ্গে কথা বলে জানা গেছে, গর্ভকালীন কাজ করার সময় তাদের নানাভাবে নিরুৎসাহিত ও ভয়ভীতি দেখানো হয়। গর্ভবতী নারী কর্মীদের বেশি সময় কাজ করানোসহ নানা কৌশলে চাকরি ছাড়তে বাধ্য করা হয়। এতেও কাজ না হলে বাধ্যতামূলক ছুটিতে পাঠানো এবং কোনো অজুহাত ছাড়াই চাকরিচ্যুত করা হয়। অনেক প্রতিষ্ঠান আছে, যেখানে গর্ভধারণের খবর পেলেই চাকরিচ্যুত করা হয়। আবার কিছু কারখানা গর্ভকালীন ছুটি দিলেও বেতন ও ভাতা নিয়ে টালবাহানা করে। চাকরি হারানোর ভয়ে অনেকেই গর্ভধারণ পিছিয়ে দেন। বিলম্বে গর্ভধারণ করে শারীরিক জটিলতার মধ্যে পড়ছেন বলে অভিযোগ করেছেন। এ বিষয়ে গার্মেন্ট শ্রমিক ট্রেউ ইউনিয়ন কেন্দ্রের কেন্দ্রীয় কমিটির সদস্য শাহীন আলম বলেন, গর্ভবতী হলে প্রায় সময় ছাঁটাইয়ের শিকার হন নারী শ্রমিকরা। তারা শ্রম আইন সম্পর্কে তেমন কিছু জানেন না। গার্মেন্ট শ্রমিক ঐক্য ফোরামের সভাপতি মোশরেফা মিশু বলেন, নারী শ্রমিকরা মাতৃত্বকালীন ছুটি ঠিকমতো পান না। অনেকে মাতৃত্বকালীন ছুটি চাইলে চাকরি থেকে বিতাড়িত হতে হয়। গার্মেন্টে বেবি কেয়ার ইউনিট থাকে না। এভাবে নারীরা অবমূল্যায়নের শিকার হন। শ্রম আইন ২০০৬ অনুযায়ী, শ্রমিক কোনো প্রতিষ্ঠানে ছয় মাস কাজ করলে তিনি মাতৃত্বকালীন সুবিধা পাওয়ার অধিকারী। অন্তঃসত্ত্বা শ্রমিক প্রসবের পূর্বে ৮ সপ্তাহ ও পরে ৮ সপ্তাহ মোট ১৬ সপ্তাহের বেতন-ছুটি পাবেন। একটি নির্দিষ্ট হারে ভাতাও দেওয়ার বিধান রয়েছে। অন্তঃসত্ত্বা শ্রমিককে দীর্ঘক্ষণ ও ভারী কাজ করানো যাবে না। শ্রমিক এ সুবিধা সর্বোচ্চ দুবার ভোগ করতে পারবেন। আর নিয়োগকর্তা শ্রমিককে এসব সুবিধা দিতে বাধ্য। শ্রমিক কল্যাণ আইন তদারকির জন্য শ্রম ও কর্মসংস্থান মন্ত্রণালয়ের ছয়টি বিভাগ রয়েছে। পাশাপাশি রয়েছে বিভিন্ন শ্রমিক সংগঠন ও এনজিও। তারপরও মাতৃত্বকালীন ছুটি মেলে না। শ্রম অধিদফতর পরিচালক ট্রেড ইউনিয়ন, সালিশি ও প্রশিক্ষণ শাখার এস এম এনামুল হক বলেন, মাতৃত্বকালীন ছুটি না দিলে কিংবা ছাঁটাই করলে আইন ভঙ্গ হবে। তাকে কাজে রাখতে হবে এবং মাতৃত্বকালীন সুবিধা দিতে হবে। এমনকি বাচ্চা নষ্ট হয়ে গেলেও চার সপ্তাহের ছুটি দিতে হবে। এসব সুবিধা না দিলে দণ্ডনীয় অপরাধ হবে। এ বিষয়ে জানতে চাইলে বিজিএমইএ সহ-সভাপতি শহিদুল্লাহ আজিম বলেন, এসব ঘটনা ১৫ থেকে ২০ বছর আগে ঘটত। এখন এ ধরনের ঘটনা ঘটে না। এখন অডিট হয়; এ ধরনের ঘটনার সুযোগ নেই। দু-একটা বিচ্ছিন্ন ঘটনা ঘটতে পারে। তবে অধিকাংশ ক্ষেত্রেই হয় না।

HC wants decision on 400 garments’ right to be BGMEA voters in 7 days

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RMG Bangladesh
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The High Court today ordered the Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FBCCI) to take decision in seven days about more than 400 garments, which allegedly have no relevant documents for being voters in the upcoming BGMEA election.

In response to a writ petition, the court asked the arbitration tribunal of the FBCCI, the apex trade organisation of Bangladesh, to dispose of by this time the application that requested for correcting the voters’ list prepared for Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) election scheduled to be held on March 9.

At the same time, the HC directed the National Board of Revenue (NBR) to verify the tax identification numbers (TINs) and income tax return certificates of those garments and to assist the BGMEA by providing the information to this effect.

The HC issued a rule asking the FBCCI’s arbitration tribunal to explain why its delay in disposing of the application filed for correcting the voters’ list of BGMEA should not be declared illegal, writ petitioner’s lawyer Mustafizur Rahman Khan told The Daily Star.

The HC bench of Justice Naima Haider and Justice Kazi Zinat Hoque issued the order and rule following the writ petition filed by Faisal Samad, owner of Surma garments, seeking necessary directives.

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