Five leading apparel companies that source billion-dollar locally-made apparel products have pulled out as key speakers and participants from the Dhaka Apparel Summit to be held on February 25, next. The move of buyers-H&M, Inditex (Zara), C&A, Next and Tchibo – came in response to recent repression of workers and denial of trade union rights in the country’s garment industry, according to a statement. In a statement issued Wednesday, Clean Clothes Campaign said, “The unprecedented decision of apparel brands and other international actors to withdraw from the event is a major embarrassment for the Bangladesh government and the BGMEA. It underscores growing international concern over the deterioration of labour rights in the Bangladesh garment industry.” The summit is organised by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina will inaugurate the event. Their decision to withdraw is in response to the campaign of repression on labour movement carried out by the Bangladesh government and factory owners over the last two months, the statement said. The Ethical Trading Initiative, representing numerous apparel brands, has also withdrawn as the only scheduled speaker from a labour union. Following non-violent workers’ protests demanding higher wages in Ashulia in December, at least 34 union leaders, organisers and workers were arrested and detained, many of them for over eight weeks despite absence of any evidence of wrongdoing. At least 1,500 workers were dismissed from their jobs. Recently, the police closed down several trade union offices. While most of the detainees were recently released on bail in response to international pressure, they continue to face criminal charges that carry potential long jail sentences. Moreover, they have to make frequent court appearances, in some cases nine times a month. Md Ibrahim, one of the arrested union leaders, said, ‘There appears to be a concerted effort by a section of the industry and the government to suppress any activity that seeks to enable workers to enjoy their rights…This has a chilling effect on all.’ Mirjam van Heugten of Clean Clothes Campaign added, “With this boycott of BGMEA’s summit, leading brands are sending a clear message to the BGMEA and the Bangladesh authorities: that unless all detainees are released, unsubstantiated charges dropped, and other acts of intimidation and harassment of trade unions stopped, they cannot credibly participate in a summit on ‘sustainable growth’ of the industry.” Jenny Holdcroft, IndustriALL’s assistant general secretary said, “While trade unionists are still locked up and criminal cases against garment workers and unionists remain, the Bangladesh garment industry is at risk.” Brands’ absence from the Apparel Summit is expected to make factory owners reconsider their combative approach to labour relations and withdraw hundreds of criminal cases they have filed against garment workers, Jenny said adding they should understand th seriousness with which repression of trade union rights is considered by the major garment buyers and their governments.
