Home Blog

Bangladesh’s apparel exports to Saudi Arabia and Gulf Soar to new heights

Bangladesh’s garment industry is expanding its market reach beyond the traditional US and European markets, focusing on the Gulf region, including Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates (UAE), which have seen a significant rise in garment exports in the last financial year.

Figure: Bangladesh’s apparel exports to Saudi Arabia and Gulf Soar to new heights.

The industry, which accounts for 80% of the country’s exports and employs four million people, has been hit by a decline in sales in traditional markets since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, prompting a reorientation of the promotion strategy.

The country made $42.6 billion between July 2021-June 2022 from garment exports, with the EU and the US being the largest markets. The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association’s data reveals a surge in exports to the Gulf, with sales to Saudi Arabia rising by 40% to $125 million and to the UAE up by 21% to $183 million.

The country is positioning itself to capture the Middle East’s substantial apparel imports, with China and India being the major suppliers currently. The presence of a considerable number of Bangladeshi workers in the Gulf region presents another opportunity to promote and introduce Bangladeshi products.

Four new RMG factories get LEED certification

Four new Ready-Made Garment (RMG) factories in Bangladesh have received LEED certification, a testament to the country’s unwavering commitment to environmental sustainability in the RMG sector.

Advance Attire Ltd, located in Phukuria on the Dhaka-Aricha Highway in Manikganj, has earned LEED Platinum certification securing an impressive 96 points.

Amanat Shah Fabrics Ltd, Woven Composite Unit, based in Vatpara, Panchdona, Narsingdi, received LEED Platinum certification scoring 82 points.

Cotton Field BD Ltd, Production Building, situated at Rajnagar on Sataish Road under Tongi in Gazipur, achieved LEED Platinum certification with a total of 83 points.

KM Apparel Knit Pvt Ltd, located in Chonpara area under Uttarkhan in the capital, obtained LEED Gold certification with 62 points.

With these additions, the total number of LEED-certified RMG factories in Bangladesh has reached 248, including 105 Platinum and 129 Gold-certified facilities.

Mohiuddin Rubel, additional managing director of Denim Expert Ltd, Managing Director of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange Ltd, and former BGMEA director, stated that Bangladesh now proudly hosts nine of the world’s top 10 and 68 of the top 100 highest-rated LEED-certified factories.

Rubel noted that the continued growth in LEED-certified facilities underscores Bangladesh’s global leadership in sustainable apparel production and reflects the industry’s strong focus on environmentally responsible infrastructure.

‘লিড’ সনদ পেলো আরও চার গার্মেন্ট প্রতিষ্ঠান

বাংলাদেশের তৈরি পোশাক শিল্পে পরিবেশবান্ধব উৎপাদনের অগ্রযাত্রা আরও এক ধাপ এগিয়ে গেলো। সম্প্রতি দেশের আরও চারটি পোশাক কারখানা বিশ্বস্বীকৃত ‘পরিবেশবান্ধব সনদ’ অর্জন করেছে।

এর মাধ্যমে বাংলাদেশে লিড সনদপ্রাপ্ত গার্মেন্টস কারখানার সংখ্যা বেড়ে দাঁড়িয়েছে ২৪৮টিতে। এর মধ্যে ১০৫টি কারখানা পেয়েছে প্লাটিনাম সনদ এবং ১২৯টি গোল্ড সনদ। সবচেয়ে তাৎপর্যপূর্ণ বিষয় হলো— বিশ্বের শীর্ষ ১০টি সর্বোচ্চ রেটিংপ্রাপ্ত লিড সনদধারী কারখানার মধ্যে ৯টিই এখন বাংলাদেশে। এমনকি শীর্ষ ১০০টি কারখানার তালিকায়ও রয়েছে ৬৮টি বাংলাদেশি প্রতিষ্ঠান।

নতুন করে লিড সনদ পাওয়া চারটি কারখানার মধ্যে রয়েছে—

অ্যাডভান্স অ্যাটায়ার লিমিটেড, ফুকুরিয়া, মানিকগঞ্জ: ৯৬ পয়েন্ট পেয়ে প্লাটিনাম সনদ।

আমানত শাহ ফেব্রিকস লিমিটেড (ওভেন কম্পোজিট ইউনিট), পাঁচদোনা, নরসিংদী: ৮২ পয়েন্টে প্লাটিনাম সনদ।

কটন ফিল্ড বিডি লিমিটেড (প্রোডাকশন বিল্ডিং), রাজনগর, টঙ্গী, গাজীপুর: ৮৩ পয়েন্টে প্লাটিনাম সনদ।

কেএম অ্যাপারেল নিট প্রাইভেট লিমিটেড, চানপাড়া, উত্তরখান, ঢাকা: ৬২ পয়েন্টে গোল্ড সনদ।

বাংলাদেশ অ্যাপারেল এক্সচেঞ্জের ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালক এবং ডেনিম এক্সপার্ট লিমিটেডের অতিরিক্ত ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালক মহিউদ্দিন রুবেল বলেন, ‘এটি বাংলাদেশের জন্য একটি গর্বের বিষয়। আমরা এখন সবুজ শিল্পায়নে বৈশ্বিক রোল মডেল হয়ে উঠেছি।’

তিনি আরও বলেন, ‘লিড সনদ মানে শুধু পরিবেশবান্ধব অবকাঠামো নয়, এটি শক্তি ও পানি সাশ্রয়, সুষ্ঠু বর্জ্য ব্যবস্থাপনা এবং কর্মীদের জন্য স্বাস্থ্যসম্মত কর্মপরিবেশ নিশ্চিত করে। এর ফলে আন্তর্জাতিক ক্রেতাদের আস্থা বাড়ে এবং বাংলাদেশের পোশাক শিল্প আরও প্রতিযোগিতামূলক হয়ে ওঠে।’

বিশ্লেষকরা বলছেন, এই অর্জন বাংলাদেশের তৈরি পোশাক খাতকে বৈশ্বিক মানদণ্ডে অনন্য উচ্চতায় পৌঁছে দিয়েছে। এটি প্রমাণ করে, টেকসই ও পরিবেশবান্ধব শিল্প উন্নয়নে বাংলাদেশ এখন বিশ্বের অন্যতম শীর্ষস্থানীয় দেশ।

Israel-Iran conflict threatens Bangladesh’s export routes, warns BGMEA president

Mahmud Hasan Khan Babu, the newly elected president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), has expressed grave concern over the impact of the escalating Israel-Iran conflict on global shipping routes and Bangladesh’s export sector.

Speaking to The Business Standard today (13 June), Babu said, “It is a very big concern for our export. We already faced a major disruption from the Yemeni Houthi attack in the Red Sea, which cost us time and additional charges because of the lengthy journey to avoid the Houthi attack.”

“We would face an adverse effect in exporting our products across the globe because of the impending shipping line disruption in the Red Sea and the Gulf Peninsula,” he said.

“Our effort to ease port congestion would worsen further if shipping lines were hampered,” he added.

To mitigate the impact, Babu said the BGMEA would formally urge the government to mobilise more resources at Chattogram Port. 

“We will give a letter to mobilise more resources to Chattogram Port to unload cargo as early as possible,” he noted.

Mahmud Hasan Khan elected BGMEA president unopposed

Mahmud Hasan Khan, managing director of Rising Group, has been elected president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) unopposed for the 2025–2027 term.

The BGMEA Election Board today (14 June) published the final list after scrutiny, where it was found that only one valid nomination had been submitted for each office-bearer position within the stipulated deadline, while no appeal was lodged. 

Therefore, all nominated candidates have been elected unopposed.

Selim Rahman, managing director of KDS Group, has been elected as the first vice president, while Enamul Haque Khan, managing director of Ananta Garments, has been elected as the senior vice president.

The vice-presidents elected include Md Rezwan Selim, managing director of Softex Sweater, Md Mizanur Rahman, managing director of Fabrica Knit Composite (Finance), Vidya Amrit Khan, deputy managing director of Desh Garments, Md Shihab Uddoja Chowdhury, managing director of Emitee Design, and Mohammad Rafique Chowdhury, managing director of Fashion Wear.

The BGMEA election board for this term comprises Mohammad Iqbal as chairman, Mahmudul Hasan as secretary, and Ashraf Ahmed and Syed Afzal Hasan Uddin as members. The election secretariat operated from the BGMEA Complex in Sector 17, Uttara, Dhaka.

If the Middle East burns, Bangladesh’s economic recovery may never begin

Mehdi Mahbub 

President, RMG Centre

Sketch: TBS

Sketch: TBS

First of all, this is an issue that directly affects us — our connection with the Middle East. The region is important for our workers’ remittances and as a key destination overall. If the situation escalates, and things worsen, it could have a serious impact on us. The volatility of the Middle East would bring extremely negative consequences for Bangladesh.

The real impact on Bangladesh will come economically, because if the global economy enters a downtrend — which is very likely if the conflict intensifies — it will hit us hard. Our investments are already headed in a negative direction. Yes, things looked slightly better around Eid, but how long will that continue? That’s uncertain.

Our exports are not diversifying. And if another war breaks out, there will be a serious impact — first on our economy, and second on global purchasing power. Think about it: Our largest consumer markets are Europe and the United States. If they get involved in any way — and it’s looking increasingly likely — their purchasing power will decline.

One of today’s headlines was about the rising price of oil — you’ve seen it. This has a direct implication for the economy, not just ours but also for the European and American economies. So, we are heading toward a serious economic shock.

Secondly, and this is something I fear more deeply, is the political uncertainty we are facing in Bangladesh. We are entering an uncertain period with national elections ahead. We are hoping that a new government, following the elections, will bring in fresh investment. 

But if this crisis continues to grow, that hope will also be shaken. So, this is a massive blow to Bangladesh — both from the Middle East crisis and from the impact it will have on our workers and their remittances.

This is not just a political analysis — this is my view as a business analyst. Iran is a major oil exporter. Now, if Iranian oil stops reaching the market, that too will have a knock-on effect.

As I said, oil prices have already started to rise. And pay close attention to the Strait of Hormuz — there is no need to be an astrologer to predict what’s coming. Over 20% of the world’s oil flows through the Strait of Hormuz. So this has a very direct impact.

Then, consider Yemen’s Houthis, Iran’s closest regional allies. They are already taking action. If both of these fronts escalate simultaneously, oil prices will continue to rise. A further escalation will have major global implications, and naturally, Bangladesh will also be affected.

Airspace is another concern. We have already seen some closures. If the crisis escalates further, more airspace might be shut down. That will directly affect global aviation. For businesses, this will be a massive blow. 

Take what happened between India and Pakistan — when airspace was shut down, both sides were affected, but India suffered more economically. Unfortunately, the current location of the unfolding crisis — right after Jordan — is highly sensitive.

God forbid, if this spreads to the Gulf, the situation will worsen significantly. Iran has already issued indirect threats, and they’re maintaining that posture. The language they’re using is telling: they’re talking about “US interests in the Middle East.” What does that mean? You know it well, the US has military bases in Saudi Arabia and several other countries in the region.

If things deteriorate further, the airspace will inevitably be affected. Other countries may start shutting theirs down too. Now, in the context of Bangladesh, our major connections to Europe and the US are via the Middle East — through airlines like Emirates, Qatar Airways, and Turkish Airlines. These are our key transit routes. If airspace is restricted or closed, ticket prices will rise even further — they are already quite high — and could spike even more.

Lastly, unfortunately, the political scene in South Asia is currently extremely constrained. People-to-people connectivity is limited for multiple reasons, including religious and geopolitical ones.

Just look at India’s strong ties with Israel. Pakistan may not be directly linked with Iran, but it has a strong connection with Turkey. And most countries in South Asia, including Bangladesh, are Muslim-majority nations. So, if this escalation intensifies, there is a real fear that new forms of political groupings will re-emerge even in South Asia. That is another very real apprehension.

TBS’ Nasif Tanjim spoke to Mehdi Mahbub over the phone. 

How an escalating Iran-Israel conflict could impact Bangladesh

Just hours after Israel’s airstrikes on Iran, the global economy began to feel the bite of the attack. Markets reacted swiftly, with Asia-Pacific and US stocks facing selloffs, while the Brent global benchmark for oil prices surged more than 10% to $75.15 per barrel. Airspace in the Middle East has also been shut down, leading to reroutes and flight cancellations. Bangladesh too is likely to be affected by the conflict. The conflict puts our remittance earnings at risk as the Middle East is a major market for Bangladesh’s labourers. And though trade volume is low between Bangladesh and Iran, it has long-term strategic value. Furthermore, oil prices could affect trade logistics. Here is what experts have to say about it.

Sketches: TBS

Sketches: TBS

Impact on international travel, logistics looming due to airspace closures

Major General (retd) ANM Muniruzzaman

President, Bangladesh Institute of Peace and Security Studies (BIPSS)

Sketch: TBS

Sketch: TBS

What we are witnessing is a dangerous escalation that is pushing the already volatile Middle East into further instability. The recent developments carry a serious risk of the conflict spreading beyond its current scope. 

There is genuine concern that what has begun as a regional military action may spiral into a wider confrontation, drawing in other state and non-state actors. This could have far-reaching consequences not only for the region but also for the global community.

Already, we are seeing immediate repercussions. One of the first sectors to be affected is aviation. Airlines are being forced to reroute flights to avoid conflict zones, resulting in longer travel times, increased fuel consumption, and rising ticket prices. These disruptions are not temporary; if the situation continues to deteriorate, we may see broader consequences for international travel and logistics.

More critically, the global supply chain — already under strain in recent years — is facing renewed disruption. Key maritime and land trade routes through the Middle East may become unsafe or unviable. Rerouting shipments through longer and more complex paths will lead to delays, higher transportation costs, and logistical bottlenecks. This will inevitably result in increased prices for goods and commodities, affecting both producers and consumers worldwide.

The energy market is particularly vulnerable. The Middle East remains a crucial hub for global oil and gas supplies. Any instability in the region tends to send shockwaves through global energy markets. We have already observed price volatility in recent days, and this trend is likely to continue and possibly worsen, depending on how the conflict unfolds. Price fluctuations will not only affect the cost of fuel but also have secondary effects on transportation, manufacturing, and household energy expenses.

Another area of concern is the labour market. Bangladesh and many other countries are significantly dependent on remittances from migrant workers employed in the Middle East. If instability spreads and affects the economies of neighbouring states, it could lead to a decline in labour demand, wage cuts, or even job losses. Such a scenario would have a direct impact on the income of thousands of families and the overall economic health of labour-sending countries like ours.

In essence, the fallout from this conflict has the potential to touch multiple sectors — communications, trade, energy, labour, and national security. The longer the instability persists, the more pronounced these effects will become. Furthermore, the possibility of the conflict escalating into a broader regional war is now significantly higher. This is a deeply concerning development that demands close monitoring and proactive engagement from the international community to prevent further deterioration.

TBS’ Anonno Afroz spoke to Major General (retd) ANM Muniruzzaman over the phone.

If Iran shuts down oil facilities, rising oil prices could affect maritime economy

Humayun Kabir

Former ambassador of Bangladesh to US

Sketch: TBS

Sketch: TBS

The act of aggression by Israel was not entirely unexpected — there were signs that something like this might happen. There has been much discussion about Iran’s uranium enrichment programme. The primary complexity of the discussion was that, while the US maintained Iran would not be able to continue enrichment, Iran stated it was for peaceful, natural purposes. 

It seemed like a zero-sum game, which is why, until the day before yesterday, progress appeared impossible. Amidst this, talks were scheduled to resume tomorrow, Sunday.

The US, as a sovereign state, has been trying to manage its relationship with Israel. In fact, Netanyahu has been saying for the past 10 years that Iran is trying to build nuclear weapons. And when the 2015 JCPOA (Iran Nuclear Deal) was signed, Israel opposed it from the beginning. 

In 2018, President Trump was motivated to withdraw the US from the deal. However, recently, President Trump, I believe, was trying to reach a compromise. My assumption is that he might have done so based on discussions with the Israeli Prime Minister.

This diplomatic effort, if unsuccessful, could lead to Israel attacking Iran. That was the subject of discussion. But last night, Israel attacked Iranian nuclear facilities, military establishments, and scientists. 

To me, it seems like a widespread attack designed to completely destroy Iran’s capabilities. A similar event occurred in 1981, when Israel destroyed Iraq’s nuclear project, known as Osirak. I believe they have now started a similar method of attack on Iran. They are saying the operation will continue — meaning it is not a one-time strike but an ongoing campaign.

It is difficult to say how much damage Iran has sustained, but it appears to be a significant blow. Several of their scientists working on the nuclear project have been targeted, and their Army Chief and RBC Chief have reportedly been hit. This can be described as a decapitation move or strike. 

If Iran retaliates, it will likely have to be a major response — because even if there is public opinion against the Iranian government, Iran as a nation has now been challenged. The government might be forced by public pressure to take countermeasures. It remains to be seen how capable they are — it depends on many factors.

The US State Secretary had previously said that action was underway and that the US was not involved in this. He also urged Iran not to attack US facilities. To me, this suggests a tendency for the US to distance itself from Israel. 

I am sure President Trump will be annoyed, because while discussions were ongoing — and President Trump himself was commenting on them — Israel’s action has disrupted US diplomatic efforts. At this point, there may be no reason to continue those talks. This feels like a blow or disregard to the United States, or even an act of defiance towards President Trump.

The intensity of Iran’s possible counter-attack, I believe, will depend on the US’s role in relation to Prime Minister Netanyahu. And if Iran attacks, I think Israel might retaliate further, which could lead to fears of a large-scale war. 

It is clear that Netanyahu wants to establish Israeli control — a goal the US tried to achieve before but did not succeed. It remains to be seen whether Israel can succeed now. However, I think Netanyahu might have taken this initiative beyond his capabilities, and a negative consequence or outcome might await him.

I must say that this is certainly a deplorable act. You cannot attack another country based on your own interpretation of national security. In that regard, I consider it reprehensible. However, I believe the international community should take the initiative to ensure this does not escalate into a major war.

Could this have an impact on our labour market, given that we have a large number of human resources in the region? Jordan has already closed its airspace. I believe that if Iran retaliates, many Middle Eastern countries might do the same. If the conflict escalates, it could have a negative impact on much of the region. 

If Iran closes its oil facilities, oil prices could rise, creating various anxieties. This affects not only the Bangladeshi population but also the economy of the maritime region, the global economy, and the immeasurable human and material cost of a full-scale war. 

This is, indeed, a very difficult situation. To my knowledge, in the past 20 years, the world has not faced such a situation, such a great apprehension. I feel this is a very, very difficult and challenging time.

TBS’ Nasif Tanjim spoke to Humayun Kabir over the phone. 

Possible sanctions, blockades puts Bangladesh’s strategic commercial ties with Iran at risk

Altaf Parvez

Researcher of South and Southeast Asian history and politics

Sketch: TBS

Sketch: TBS

This will have a direct impact on Bangladesh — there’s no doubt about that. Iran is home to a considerable number of Bangladeshis. Some are there for work, others for education. Their lives and livelihoods are now under threat, and any further instability will only worsen the situation for them.

It is not just about individuals either. Bangladesh maintains commercial ties with Iran, particularly in sectors such as fertilisers, oil-related products, and other raw materials. Even if the trade volume is not huge, these relations have long-term strategic value. I fear that such ties could now face disruptions due to increasing tensions and the possibility of sanctions or blockades.

But what concerns me more is the bigger picture. We are witnessing a seismic shift across the Middle East. There’s a new power equation in the making. A kind of polarisation is happening — both politically and militarily — that could reshape the entire region. That has implications not only for regional players but for countries like Bangladesh that have always maintained diplomatic balance in the area.

Historically, Bangladesh has stood in solidarity with progressive and anti-imperialist forces in the Middle East, particularly on the issue of Palestine. Countries like Syria, Iraq and Yemen — despite their current state — were among the first to recognise Bangladesh after our Liberation War. 

That legacy matters. But now those very states are either weakened or have collapsed into failed states. If Iran becomes similarly cornered or isolated, we risk losing another pillar of that historic solidarity.

Bangladesh has had a long and layered relationship with Iran, politically, culturally, and economically. I fear that the relationship might now come under strain. In the long run, this could limit our diplomatic space and even our role in broader global forums where we have traditionally taken moral positions on global conflicts, particularly in the Muslim world.

TBS’ Anonno Afroz spoke to Altaf Parvez over the phone.

If the Middle East burns, Bangladesh’s economic recovery may never begin

Mehdi Mahbub 

President, RMG Centre

Sketch: TBS

Sketch: TBS

First of all, this is an issue that directly affects us — our connection with the Middle East. The region is important for our workers’ remittances and as a key destination overall. If the situation escalates, and things worsen, it could have a serious impact on us. The volatility of the Middle East would bring extremely negative consequences for Bangladesh.

The real impact on Bangladesh will come economically, because if the global economy enters a downtrend — which is very likely if the conflict intensifies — it will hit us hard. Our investments are already headed in a negative direction. Yes, things looked slightly better around Eid, but how long will that continue? That’s uncertain.

Our exports are not diversifying. And if another war breaks out, there will be a serious impact — first on our economy, and second on global purchasing power. Think about it: Our largest consumer markets are Europe and the United States. If they get involved in any way — and it’s looking increasingly likely — their purchasing power will decline.

One of today’s headlines was about the rising price of oil — you’ve seen it. This has a direct implication for the economy, not just ours but also for the European and American economies. So, we are heading toward a serious economic shock.

Secondly, and this is something I fear more deeply, is the political uncertainty we are facing in Bangladesh. We are entering an uncertain period with national elections ahead. We are hoping that a new government, following the elections, will bring in fresh investment. 

But if this crisis continues to grow, that hope will also be shaken. So, this is a massive blow to Bangladesh — both from the Middle East crisis and from the impact it will have on our workers and their remittances.

This is not just a political analysis — this is my view as a business analyst. Iran is a major oil exporter. Now, if Iranian oil stops reaching the market, that too will have a knock-on effect.

As I said, oil prices have already started to rise. And pay close attention to the Strait of Hormuz — there is no need to be an astrologer to predict what’s coming. Over 20% of the world’s oil flows through the Strait of Hormuz. So this has a very direct impact.

Then, consider Yemen’s Houthis, Iran’s closest regional allies. They are already taking action. If both of these fronts escalate simultaneously, oil prices will continue to rise. A further escalation will have major global implications, and naturally, Bangladesh will also be affected.

Airspace is another concern. We have already seen some closures. If the crisis escalates further, more airspace might be shut down. That will directly affect global aviation. For businesses, this will be a massive blow. 

Take what happened between India and Pakistan — when airspace was shut down, both sides were affected, but India suffered more economically. Unfortunately, the current location of the unfolding crisis — right after Jordan — is highly sensitive.

God forbid, if this spreads to the Gulf, the situation will worsen significantly. Iran has already issued indirect threats, and they’re maintaining that posture. The language they’re using is telling: they’re talking about “US interests in the Middle East.” What does that mean? You know it well, the US has military bases in Saudi Arabia and several other countries in the region.

If things deteriorate further, the airspace will inevitably be affected. Other countries may start shutting theirs down too. Now, in the context of Bangladesh, our major connections to Europe and the US are via the Middle East — through airlines like Emirates, Qatar Airways, and Turkish Airlines. These are our key transit routes. If airspace is restricted or closed, ticket prices will rise even further — they are already quite high — and could spike even more.

Lastly, unfortunately, the political scene in South Asia is currently extremely constrained. People-to-people connectivity is limited for multiple reasons, including religious and geopolitical ones.

Just look at India’s strong ties with Israel. Pakistan may not be directly linked with Iran, but it has a strong connection with Turkey. And most countries in South Asia, including Bangladesh, are Muslim-majority nations. So, if this escalation intensifies, there is a real fear that new forms of political groupings will re-emerge even in South Asia. That is another very real apprehension.

TBS’ Nasif Tanjim spoke to Mehdi Mahbub over the phone. 

The Chimney Whispers of a Changed Australia

Rafiad Ruhi

The Industrial Revolution, a time of remarkable technological progress and significant societal change that spanned the globe from the late 18th to the early 20th century, has had a lasting impact on Australia. The influence of steam power, factory systems, and mass production emerged in Australia with a distinct timeline compared to its European origins. Nonetheless, these developments significantly transformed various industries and the lives of individuals across the continent. In examining these transformations, the emergence of the Ready-Made Garment (RMG) industry in Australia presents a noteworthy case study of the interplay between global influences and local circumstances, resulting in the establishment of a new economic sector, which, however, would subsequently encounter considerable challenges in an increasingly globalized environment.

Australia’s experience during the Industrial Revolution was distinct, significantly influenced by its colonial background, extensive geography, and abundant resources. In contrast to Britain, where the forces of industrialization were propelled by an abundance of domestic coal and iron resources alongside a growing population, Australia’s early economic endeavours were primarily focused on agriculture, especially wool production. This was subsequently followed by the extraction of mineral resources that gained momentum after the gold rushes of the mid-19th century. The primary industries played a crucial role in driving economic growth and welcoming numerous waves of immigration.

In the latter half of the 19th century, Australia witnessed the beginnings of its industrial development, driven by an expanding domestic market, the influx of capital from the resource sector, and the necessity to cater to a widely dispersed population. As large-scale manufacturing established itself in sectors such as agricultural machinery and food processing, the RMG industry developed at a more measured pace, initially concentrating on tailoring and small-scale production to address local needs.

Before the advent of industrialization, the production of clothing in Australia, like other regions, predominantly took place within the confines of home-based enterprises. Garments were produced either within the home or by skilled tailors and seamstresses, a meticulous process that led to items that were often bespoke and relatively costly. The introduction of the sewing machine, patented in the mid-19th century, marked a significant technological advancement for the RMG sector. Although the initial costs were high, the gradual improvements in affordability and efficiency of sewing machines led to a significant transition in clothing production, moving from individual artisans to small workshops and ultimately to larger manufacturing facilities.

During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Australia experienced a gradual yet consistent expansion of clothing factories, particularly in its urban hubs such as Melbourne and Sydney. The initial factories primarily concentrated on the production of standardized clothing for the working population, including resilient workwear and essential everyday garments. The presence of domestically sourced wool and, subsequently, cotton offered a local supply of raw materials; however, it is important to note that the quality and diversity frequently fell short when compared to imported textiles.

The First World War served as an important impetus for the growth of Australian manufacturing, particularly within the RMG sector. Considering the challenges faced in international trade and a growing emphasis on national self-sufficiency, there has been a notable rise in the demand for domestically produced goods, encompassing both military uniforms and civilian apparel. This period witnessed a notable expansion of existing factories alongside the establishment of new ones, thereby laying a solid foundation for future growth during the interwar years.

The interwar period, along with the ensuing Second World War, provided additional momentum to the Australian RMG industry. Government initiatives focused on import substitution, alongside the necessity to provide for an expanding population and military, have contributed to the establishment of a safeguarded domestic market. Tariffs and various trade barriers have provided local manufacturers with a protective environment against more affordable international competition, thereby facilitating the growth and diversification of the industry’s production capabilities. By the mid-20th century, Australia had developed a robust RMG sector, providing employment opportunities for a considerable number of individuals, especially women and migrant workers, while producing a diverse array of clothing for the domestic market.

Nevertheless, this era of safeguarded development also laid the groundwork for forthcoming difficulties. Due to a degree of insulation from global competition, certain segments of the Australian RMG industry have experienced a decline in efficiency and innovation relative to their international peers. The emphasis on import substitution, although beneficial for local employment, did not consistently encourage the integration of the most advanced technologies or production techniques.

The final decades of the 20th century marked the beginning of a transformative period characterized by increased globalization and trade liberalization, significantly influencing the Australian RMG industry. The implementation of successive government policies designed to enhance the Australian economy’s engagement with international competition has resulted in the gradual reduction of tariffs and other protective measures. This situation has led to an influx of more affordable imports from nations with reduced labour expenses, especially within the Asian region, impacting the local RMG sector significantly.

A considerable number of Australian clothing and textile factories, facing challenges in competing with overseas manufacturers on pricing, have had to make the difficult decision to close or substantially reduce their operations. Employment in the sector experienced a significant decline as production transitioned to offshore locations. Retailers and wholesalers have been progressively sourcing garments directly from overseas, which has contributed to a notable decline in the market share of local producers.
The challenges posed by elevated labour costs in relation to international competitors, a comparatively limited domestic market, and the absence of scale economies have created obstacles for local manufacturers striving to remain competitive in terms of pricing.

In light of the challenges faced, certain segments of the Australian RMG industry have demonstrated resilience and adaptability by concentrating on niche markets, producing high-quality products, committing to ethical and sustainable practices, and capitalizing on Australia’s distinctive advantages, including its exceptional merino wool. Local designers and brands that prioritize quality, innovation, and the essence of Australian identity have cultivated a dedicated following among consumers.

The current Australian RMG landscape presents a nuanced interplay of local design and manufacturing, frequently emphasizing higher-value or specialized products, alongside a notable dependence on imports for mass-market clothing. There is an increasing recognition of the social and environmental implications tied to global supply chains and fast fashion, which is fostering a heightened consumer interest in garments that are locally produced and ethically sourced.

In recent years, there have been concerted initiatives aimed at rejuvenating Australian textile and clothing manufacturing, motivated by a commitment to enhancing supply chain resilience, promoting ethical production practices, and safeguarding local skills and employment opportunities. Emerging initiatives are centered around advanced manufacturing technologies, sustainable practices, and fostering collaborations between designers and manufacturers, with the objective of establishing a distinct presence for Australian-made garments in the global market.

The narrative of the Australian RMG industry, viewed through the perspective of the Industrial Revolution, highlights the significant influences of technological advancement, globalization, and economic strategy. The journey of the industry, starting from modest workshops equipped with early sewing machines to navigating challenges and transformations in a globalized context, mirrors Australia’s overall economic progress and its changing role on the world stage. Although the extensive factory production of the mid-20th century has diminished, the subtle currents of innovation and the lasting elements of quality and local identity persist in influencing the future of garment making in Australia.

Apparel News in Brief for May, 2025

  • Bangladesh’s Apparel Exports to EU Surge in First Quarter of 2025

Bangladesh’s garment exports to the European Union (EU) market experienced remarkable increase in the first quarter of this year (January-March). According to Eurostat’s latest numbers, export earnings grew by 29.06 percent in just three months to $5.976 billion, up from $4.631 billion in the same period previous year.

Bangladesh’s garment exports to the EU climbed in volume by 24.64 percent, while average unit prices increased by 3.55 percent. This balanced growth in value, quantity, and unit pricing helped to drive the considerable overall revenue increase.

Eurostat also revealed that overall garment imports into the European Union increased by 16.84 percent in the first three months of 2025, reaching $24.6523 billion. Import volumes increased by 20.25 percent, indicating a robust recovery in purchase orders across the sector. However, the average unit price of imported clothes fell by 2.84%, showing increased price pressure and competitive market dynamics.

Against this backdrop, Bangladesh has outperformed many of its peers by growing export volume while also achieving higher unit pricing. Analysts attribute Bangladesh’s success to its low pricing, skilled labor force, and increased emphasis on sustainable production processes. However, they warn that maintaining this pace will necessitate increased policy support and the creation of export-friendly infrastructure.

Aside from Bangladesh, numerous countries saw significant increases in their garment exports to the EU during the same period. China increased its exports by 24.94 percent to $6.672 billion, India by 24.08 percent to $1.444 billion, Pakistan by 28.73 percent to $1.085 billion, and Cambodia by 33.45 percent to $1.1614 billion. Vietnam’s exports increased by 18.09 percent, totaling $1.14 billion.

In comparison, Turkey’s garment exports to the EU fell 4.14 percent to $2.369 billion during January to March 2025.

Source: Textile Today

  • Bangladesh Leads US Apparel Import Growth in Q1 2025

Bangladesh has recorded the highest growth in apparel exports to the United States during the first quarter of 2025, outperforming global competitors with a 26.64% year-over-year increase.

According to figures from the Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA), Bangladesh shipped garments worth $2.22 billion to the United States between January and March, exceeding India, Pakistan, Vietnam, and China.

During this period, the United States imported clothes worth $20.05 billion from all sources, a 10.95% increase over the same quarter in 2024.

Bangladesh posted strong growth in shipment volume, rising by 25.24%, indicating higher demand and manufacturing capacity. India led in volume growth, followed by Pakistan, Vietnam, and China. In terms of unit price growth, Vietnam recorded the highest increase, followed by China and Bangladesh, while India and Pakistan saw declines.

Asif Ashraf, managing director of Urmi Group, attributed Bangladesh’s performance to its focus on more sophisticated garment exports. “The slight uptick in prices suggests that we are exporting more sophisticated garments to the US,” he said. However, he also cautioned that recent tariff hikes by former President Donald Trump could pose future challenges. “While Bangladesh might benefit from the sustained high tariffs on Chinese products, if those tariffs begin to erode US consumers’ purchasing power, it could hurt overall import demand – including for Bangladeshi goods.”

Mohiuddin Rubel, former director of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), noted that China’s slower growth indicates a shift in market share. “This suggests that Bangladesh has captured a share of the market China is losing,” he said.

Source: The Business Standard

  • Bangladesh Poised to Retain Global Lead in Cotton Imports in 2025–26

Bangladesh is on track to retain its status as the world’s biggest cotton importer in the marketing year (MY) 2025-26, with imports projected to reach 8.5 million bales, according to a record-setting forecast by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA).

The USDA report anticipates a modest recovery in global cotton consumption, which is set to reach a five-year high of 118.1 million bales. This resurgence is attributed to stable economic conditions,

Bangladesh’s high increase in cotton imports indicates the continuous expansion of its ready-made garment (RMG) sector. RMG exports increased 10.86 percent year on year in the first ten months of FY2024-25, hitting $30.25 billion, according to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) figures.

Mohammad Hatem, President of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), stated that higher imports of US cotton are part of a larger strategy to close the trade imbalance with the United States. He further stated that this measure helps Bangladesh’s case for duty-free access for its garment exports in the US market.

“The government has already taken necessary initiatives in this regard,” said Mohammad Hatem. He also emphasized that US cotton is valued for its superior quality and consistency, making it a preferred choice for local spinners and manufacturers. “With global buyers increasingly prioritizing sustainable sourcing and natural fibres, cotton remains a vital raw material for Bangladesh’s spinners and knitwear producers,” he added.

The USDA also forecasts that worldwide cotton trade would increase by 2.3 million bales to 44.8 million bales in MY2025-26. Meanwhile, China, previously the top importer, is predicted to drop imports from 15 million bales in MY2023-24 to just 7 million bales in MY2025-26, allowing Bangladesh to enhance its position.

The survey also predicts stable global cotton prices, thanks to abundant supply, a decreasing US dollar, and falling energy costs. These variables may assist reduce input cost constraints for Bangladeshi millers, which have seen increased costs over the last two years.

Foreign Affairs Adviser Md Touhid Hossain, stated that Bangladesh plans to increase cotton imports from the US to enhance bilateral trade ties. He suggested that this could provide protection against potential tariff-centric policies, particularly under former US President Donald Trump’s administration. Despite rising imports, domestic cotton production remains low. Bangladesh now supplies only 2% of its yearly cotton needs. Md Touhid Hossain emphasized the significance of raising local supply to meet at least 20% of the country’s projected yearly demand of 9 million bales.

Efforts to scale up production are ongoing but face challenges due to land availability, climate issues, and competition with food crops.

As global cotton trade patterns change, Bangladesh’s increasing import volumes reflect not only the country’s pivotal role in the textile value chain, but also its larger trade and policy goals. With continuous investment in sourcing techniques and domestic capacity, Bangladesh is well positioned to maintain its global garment industry leadership.

Source: The Daily Star

  • Bangladesh Reaches 243 LEED-Certified Garment Factories with Three New Additions

Bangladesh has added three more LEED-certified ready-made garment (RMG) factories, bringing the total to 243 certified facilities, according to industry sources. The updated figures include 101 Platinum and 128 Gold certified factories, further reinforcing the country’s leadership in sustainable manufacturing. Bangladesh now accounts for 68 of the world’s top 100 highest-rated LEED-certified factories.

The details of the newly certified factories are as follows:
Tasniah Fabrics Ltd Admin Building and Tasniah Fabrics Ltd RMG Building – Located in Nayapara, Kashimpur, Gazipur – Platinum
Comfit Golden Leaf – Located in Gorai, Mirzapur, Tangail – Platinum

Among them, Tasniah Fabrics Ltd Admin Building has made history by becoming the highest-rated LEED-certified factory in the world, scoring 107 points under the LEED v4 rating system. This surpasses the previous global record of 106 points held by SM Sourcing.

Industry leaders have hailed this as a landmark moment for Bangladesh’s RMG sector.

As global buyers increasingly prioritise ESG compliance and sustainability, this milestone is expected to further elevate Bangladesh’s image in the global apparel market, while setting new standards for green building excellence across industries.

Source: The Business Standard

  • Global Trade Shift: How the US-China Deal Impacts Bangladesh

The United States and China have agreed to temporarily slash reciprocal tariffs. Under the agreement, both sides will reduce tariffs by 115 percent. The US will cut extra tariffs it imposed on Chinese imports in April this year to 30 percent from 145 percent, while Chinese duties on US imports will fall to 10 percent from 125 percent. The new measures are effective for 90 days, and both sides have also agreed to launch a new economic dialogue forum to strengthen future cooperation.

The global economy will benefit from a deal in the US-China trade negotiations in Switzerland, but Bangladesh will face mixed long-term effects. According to experts, if Bangladesh can properly position itself, the US-China tariff walls will still be high enough to draw Chinese companies to relocate, even with the tariff reductions.

Zahid Hussain, former lead economist of the World Bank’s Dhaka office, noted the potential comparative advantage for Bangladesh:

“We will have to see how much the tariffs are reduced. After the first day of negotiations, Trump said that 80% sounds right to him. So, even if we do not get any good results from the negotiations, we will still get a 28% tariff advantage compared to China. However, we need to figure out in which sectors we can use that advantage.

In fact, we need to look at the US negotiations with India too, because how advantageous our comparative advantage would be will depend on what deal is made with India. Originally, reciprocal tariffs from India were less than ours, but we do not know what will happen now. That’s why it is difficult to say definitively whether the negotiations in Switzerland will be in our favour or not.

Right now, Bangladesh has not clearly said what their strategy is. I have heard that they have asked for more time beyond the 90 days. But this will be a problem. China has warned that any deals with the US that harms China will see retaliation. So, all these different areas that need to be balanced is not something we are clear on.

This is not just about tariffs, there are non-tariff barriers, issues with public procurement, and intellectual property laws. There have been no clarifications on any of these issues. The government went to Washington but we have no idea what they discussed there regarding all these interrelated issues. We need more clarity in the decision-making process and negotiations.”

Mustafizur Rahman, Distinguished Fellow at the Centre for Policy Dialogue, added that the picture is still unpredictable:

“The US is negotiating bilaterally with other countries, so we have to see what bilateral discussions are held with Bangladesh ultimately. It also depends on the 10% additional tariff and what compromises we have had to make and their economic implications.

Depending on how much tariff is put on China, we have to see what advantage we can get from that, which will depend on our situation. We have greater cotton-based exports, for example. In the markets we compete with China on, we may get an advantage because of tariff differentials. It’s all very unpredictable.

If we can get investments targeting US markets, we could get some benefits. There are also talks of cotton warehouses for the US, so if we can export cotton, that would be good. In the medium term, the US had said earlier that we are not ready for Free Trade Agreements (FTA) negotiations due to labour standards, intellectual property and other regulatory concerns, which is partially true. If we can address these concerns, we could do FTA negotiations too.

So, we have to see this from a multidimensional perspective. The US and China are just one part of the puzzle. We have to see how negotiations with other countries like Vietnam goes. If they put an additional 5% on Vietnam and 10% on us, it will be a different scenario. So, there are a lot of factors involved, and as for the concerns they have raised about us, this is not just their concern. It is a concern for anyone who wants to invest in our country. So, we must address these.”

Shams Mahmud, Managing Director of Shasha Denims Ltd and former president of the Dhaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry (DCCI), warned of Bangladesh falling behind in the race:

“If the US and China can reach an agreement, then Bangladesh will be the loser. The 10% tariff on us will stay intact, so if China and the US reduce tariffs on each other, our competitive advantage will be hindered.

We already know that Indonesia, Cambodia and Vietnam are having conversations with the US Department of Commerce. We are seeing reports of these in-depth conversations in the news. But from Bangladesh’s side, we have not seen any discussions or proposals since the first letter.

Even today, I saw on the news that the US has asked for a proposal from us, which means we have not had discussions with them yet. So, we are falling behind. This is even more important for us, because even India has come to an agreement. So, except for Bangladesh, most other countries are moving forward. This is unfortunate, because we are still dependent on the RMG sector.

The other thing is, even if there is a 10% additional tariff, in areas where we do not have competitive advantages, we will be hit very hard. Our main advantage was lower wages, but if we have to compete with other countries in value-added products which require more investment and skills, such as outerwear jackets and sweaters, we cannot survive.”

Mehdi Mahbub, President of RMG Centre, acknowledged the potential for increased orders but was cautious about missed opportunities:

“If China has high tariffs on apparels, then American buyers will certainly try to ship from other countries. So, Bangladesh is hoping to get increased orders from that angle, which is a positive for us.

On the negative side, we were expecting some investments, such as relocation of some industries and businesses, but we may not see that anymore if Trump reduces tariffs on China. China is ahead of us in terms of productivity, logistics and backward linkage. Even though Bangladesh is the second-largest global RMG exporter, we are still far behind China in a lot of ways.

My personal observation is that China has the upper hand in the talks because they wanted an independent, neutral place to have these discussions. The US under Trump wants to do things their own way, and they are not giving importance to neutral bodies like the UN and others unfortunately.

But if you have noticed, President Trump has started softening his stance on the tariffs already because US consumers have been suffering a lot due to the tariff war. So, I think it is inevitable that we will see a softer tariff regime for both countries because they have to accept that neither country is gaining anything from this.”

Source: The Business Standard

  • April sees lowest exports in 10 months of FY25

April recorded the lowest export earnings in 10 months of the current fiscal year (FY2024–25), with total exports amounting to just over $3 billion. This marks the lowest monthly figure since July, according to data released by the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB).

The decline is largely attributed to factory closures during the eight-day Eid-ul-Fitr holidays, an ongoing gas supply crisis in industrial zones, and shipment delays caused by uncertainty over a sharp US tariff hike introduced by the Trump administration.

Despite the dip, April exports still posted a slight year-on-year growth of 0.86%, totaling $3.01 billion compared to the same month in FY24. However, this is significantly lower than March’s export earnings of $4.25 billion. The previous lowest export month in FY25 was September, with $3.52 billion in earnings.

“We observed that export orders have not actually declined, and there is no need to panic,” said Md. Fazlul Hoque, the managing director of Plummy Fashions Limited and a former president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA). He also noted that Bangladesh observed Eid holidays in April last year as well, and export earnings then were nearly the same.

Despite these challenges, exporters remain optimistic. Order flows remain stable, and many expect the situation to improve in the coming months.

From July to April of FY25, Bangladesh exported goods worth $40.20 billion, representing a 9.83% increase over the same time last year.

The Ready-Made Garment (RMG) sector remained the largest contributor, earning $32.64 billion over the year, a 10% increase over the previous year.

RMG exports totaled $2.40 billion in April 2025, up slightly from $2.38 billion in April 2024, representing a monthly growth rate of 0.44%. While knitwear exports increased by over 5%, woven garment exports fell by more than 4.65% year on year.

Other sectors had varied results. Leather and leather goods, jute and jute products, and engineering goods all saw year-on-year increases of 12%, 2.55%, and 29%. On the other hand, home textiles and agricultural products declined by 2.69% and 19%, respectively.

Source: The Business Standard

  • Mohammad Hatem Elected BKMEA President

The Progressive Knit Alliance, led by Mohammad Hatem, won all 35 directorial posts in the biennial election of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), held on 10 May.

Following the panel’s landslide victory, the new board convened on 11 May to elect its office bearers for the 2025-27 term. As expected, panel leader Mohammad Hatem was elected president. Fazle Shamim Ehsan was elected executive vice president.

The remaining office bearers — including the executive president, senior vice president, vice president (finance), and five vice presidents — were all elected unopposed, as per the pre-announced election schedule. The five vice presidents are Md. Samsuzzaman, Gowher Siraj Jamil (Chattogram), Ashiqur Rahman, Fakir Kamruzzaman Nahid, and Mohammad Rashed.

Source: The Business Standard

Tariffs and the RMG industry

Forrest Cookson, PhD

Mr. Trump’s tariff policies have introduced great confusion in the market for ready-made garments (RMG) creating great uncertainty as to how trade will take place in the next few years. The garment industry is going through three different transitions other than the trump tariffs: 1. The resistance by the United states for imports of garments from China has grown steadily resulting in the need for sourcing of garments to the more significant amount of the American market from countries other than China. 2. Changes in technology are rapidly increasing the degree of automation and reducing the labor inputs required. 3. There is much emphasis the EU and in the United States on environmental issues such as water conservation and reduced energy consumption. It is on top of all of these factors that the Trump tariffs are creating great uncertainty as to how this market will evolve.

Bangladesh consequently faces major problems in remaining competitive and growing its exports of RMG products to the USA. Everyone realizes that these considerable threats to the competitiveness of the Bangladesh product.  We begin with a brief review of what has taken place: Bangladesh exported garments worth $7.4 billion in 2024 and $ 2.2 billion during the first quarter of 2025.  Exports of garments have grown strongly since 2016.  Tariff levels ranged from 11% to 18% over most garment products.  On April 2, 2025, the United States raised tariffs by an additional 37% leading to tariffs of 50%.  Tariffs were raised to different levels for each country thus violating the central concept of international trade, the most favored nation principle. Subsequently the American government deferred thee imposition of these higher tariffs for 90 days that is until early July. This gave a period of 90 days when governments could discuss with the United States the level of these tariffs and what might be done to lower them. Two countries seemed to have successfully negotiated changes. First the UK who reached an agreement that the tariff level would be 10% levied by the United States on imports from the United Kingdom. However, there is a higher tariff of 25% on automobiles and automobile spare parts. Also, a special tariff on steel and aluminum. Not all aspects of the agreement between the two nations were completed so one could say that the UK agreement with the United states has not yet reached its final form. The second agreement was between the United States and China. That agreement, valid for 90 days, reduced Chinese tariffs on US goods to 10% and American tariffs on Chinese goods to 30% The US Secretary of the Treasury also stated that countries might begin to receive a final tariff level within the next two weeks. There is just tremendous confusion brought about by the United States, probably deliberately.  There is no clarity yet as to the level of tariffs that the United States is imposing on other countries nor is it completely clear that there is going to be violation of the M F N condition. How this will be resolved is not known. Mr. Trump seems to be jumping from one thing to another with no clear purpose or reason.

It is impossible to predict where Bangladesh is going to end up here in the second part of this paper we will discuss what the government is proposing to do in answer to the American increase in tariff but there is no real way to understand where this might end. We can ask what is in Mr. Trump’s mind in this wild unstructured announcement and change in tariff levels for different countries. We can begin with the realization that Mister Trump believes that the United States is being exploited by countries like Bangladesh that run a high trade surplus. In Bangladesh the high tariffs that are imposed on imports certainly cause a reduction in what might otherwise be a substantial import bill. Mr. Trump’s desire to bring the US trade balance close to zero is one thing; the attempt to balance trade with every country is another. The idea of trying to have a sharply reduced and almost zero current account deficit between the United States and many other countries each being separate makes no economic sense whatsoever. That does not seem to deter Mr. Trump who continues to peddle this nonsense about setting tariff rates with the objective of closing the trade gap between the United States and the rest of the world. Trump has taken advantage of this move to force countries to negotiate on trade issues and perhaps other issues almost every country is concerned about preserving their trade with the United States. Only a few countries do not run a large surplus with the United states. A second reason that is sometimes raised as an explanation of the motivation for implementing these wacky tariff levels Is that it should encourage American and foreign companies to invest more in the United states under the protection of these very high tariff rates.

Mr. Trump seems to want to bring industry back to the United States as it was 40 years ago. There was a significant shift of many industries out of the United States to countries where labor costs were lower. This is a natural progression of the economic development of the world economy. Such shifts result in allocation of Labor and capital in a fairly efficient way compared to the all-too-common setting tariffs for political purposes or to protect an industry which doesn’t really need protection or should not be protected. A great deal of the poverty in South Asia arises from the strong tendency to maintain high tariff rates to protect domestic industries from foreign competition. This is the opposite of what one should attempt to do to develop and enforce a sound trade policy. In order to achieve this objective, it will be necessary to maintain the high protective tariffs for a long time meaning that if this is an important consideration the United States will not be interested in lowering these April’s 2 tariffs. Mr. Trump does not have a carefully worked out plan on trade policy, he is jumping from one thing to another with the vague idea that reducing the trade deficit will be good for the United States. There are many wild stories going around that this disruption of international trade is a carefully thought-out plot by Trump to somehow increase the power of the United States over the rest of the world The third reason sometimes given for the high tariffs is to increase government revenue. In Mr. Trump’s mind is the idea that by increasing revenues earned from taxing imports it is possible to reduce the Income taxes that are the main source of government revenue. However very simple arithmetic indicates that this is a ridiculous proposition and no significant impact on income taxes will be achieved by high tariffs. At the end of the 19th century tariffs were an important part of government revenue much more important than now. But it was illegal in the United states to levy income taxes until the 18th amendment to the constitution made that possible. Besides the US Government was very small relative to the size of the economy.

These three reasons for levying high tariff rates on imports from all other countries are not based on careful analysis of what is necessary to achieve the purported objectives. The objectives themselves are all foolish and inappropriate for the American economy. The United States should run a large deficit on its trade account and accept the fact that people will hold the dollars that cover the difference between the trade levels. So long as the dollar is the key dominant currency in international trade and investment then there will be a strong demand by financial systems and companies all over the world to hold dollars. A strong dollar tends to decrease American exports and increase imports into the United States. Mr. Trump talks about having a strong dollar and reducing the trade deficit. These are incompatible ideas and economic nonsense to pursue them together. The last reason that is given for the high tariffs is quite different. It suggests that the United States will now confront other countries with the demand that they reduce their economic relations with China and in return for such reduction the US will lower the tariffs. It is easy to see that some people in the United States government who are focused on the differences in view of China and the United States would see here an opportunity to cause difficulty for China but in the event Mr. Trump’s effort to raise tariffs to very high levels for countries other than China has blown back in his face. The United States appears to be in long term conflict with China and seeks apparently to try to reduce Chinese economic influence around the world. This of course is economic and political nonsense and precisely the wrong way to deal with China. All that Mister Trump is doing is reducing the role of the United States in the international economy and leaving the leadership of world trade to the Chinese. It really makes no sense whatsoever for the United ‘States to take such actions, nevertheless this is what is happening.   An ill-informed Americzn President is attempting to carry out policies that make no sense and none of his staff seems prepared to try to change his mind. In this explosion of irrational behavior, it is difficult. to formulate a satisfactory response.

The implementation of regimes of high tariffs will reduce international trade and reduce or slow down growth of world GDP.  The low tariff world that has been in place leads to appropriate allocations of capital to different countries and maximizes world output.  Any interference in the free flow of goods and services reduces the total output and allocates labor and capital improperly.  The high tariffs will then reduce incomes in the advanced economies and reduce the demand for clothing.  This income effect hits all countries and results from the dramatic change in tariff levels that the United States announced.   As the magnitude of the tariff are changing everyday it is difficult to understand how large this income effect might be. 

The tariffs different for each country suggest that the landed price for different garments will be different. How the buyer would deal with this is uncertain. What these different tariff levels mean for competition among countries supplying garments to the American market is again impossible to determine as there is as of now no final level of tariffs that has been established. It is likely that there will be little difference in the tariff levels for different countries with no particular advantage to anyone. What we do know is that the management of these tariff changes by the United states is creating vast uncertainties as to what prices will be and what one should order for the future markets. If the tariff rate were to rise to 50% for Bangladesh garments and this is similar to the impact on other supplying countries’ then the question becomes help customers in the retail stores in America will react to these much higher prices for clothes. We would expect a shift away from clothes to other items desired by the consumer. This price effect operating really only in the American market could be quite severe.

The price to the consumer is the landed price which reflects the price of production, the cost of transportation and the tariff. The American buyer will add his mark up landed price which will be the price at which he sells to the retail stores. The buyer has some freedom to adjust the markup to establish his offer to the retail stores. The buyer may well be prepared to reduce his markup to make the garments more attractive to the retailer. The retailer in turn has to determine his mark up on the price at which he purchased the garments from the buyer. These markups to the retail level are usually very high, well above 50% With the imposition of high tariffs buyers will pressure the Bangladesh maker to reduce his price, it is unlikely that the transporter will reduce his prices. let us say a typical item cost 100 landed before the tariff with the 50% tariff this becomes 150 before the increase in tariff the markup by the buyer would be 25% and the markup by the retailer 75% hence more than doubling the landed cost. If we take the current 15% tariff, then the item has a landed price of115; the price at the retalil level is 252. If you increase the tariff to 50 then the retail price becomes 328, an increase of 30%.  If the Bangladesh manufacturer reduces the price 2%, the buyer reduces his market up to 21% and the retailer to 68%, then the price is 300 an increase of 20%.  The 37% would have a major impact on earnings but would not be too hurt as far as prices go.

It is impossible to predict how the competition will develop. Bangladesh can be cooperative and attempt to increase imports from the United States.  But unless one is prepared to give up the MFN rule there is only very limited prospect for increased imports from the USA.  Cotton is the most promising but there are many complications to make American cotton competitive. India and China are cheaper suppliers of most things. Goodwill can be earned by improving protection of Property rights and passing the Labor Law as promised.

The best policy for Bangladesh is to focus on non-US markets, to work with the US buyers to try to stay competitive, and to broaden the range of garments to produce.  Everyone should stay calm about the tariff position and concentrate on the real issues of improving productivity.  The Government has a responsibility to improve the gas and electricity supply, shorten the clearance times at customs, and improve the use of the Chattogram highway. 

I expect that the US Government will settle for a tariff level of 20% and insist on better IPR efforts and improved labor rights.  That is not too bad, only slightly above the current tariff levels.  The Government would be well advised to expand the Biman fleet through a deal with Boeing, shift military procurement more to the USA and finally explore the prospects for purchasing 5 nuclear power plants from the United States.

To build the RMG sector one must turn away from financing that is never repaid; from not investing in automation; from expecting the Government to bail out the industry when troubles strike.  A more positive approach is needed.  There is an unwillingness to train Bangladesh technicians to take over the jobs now carried out by Sri Lankans and Indians.  There is certainly considerable Indian money invested in the sector.  That must be declared, and the finances of the enterprise be made transparent.  An effort should be made to switch financing to the capital market that would finance air conditioning, automation, and establishment of the health care and education of the workers’ children.

If more serious trouble develops with the United States everyone should stay calm.  It is likely that the Democrats will take control of the House of Representatives, and the Congress will reclaim the right to set tariff rates reversing the chaos.

At the beginning of the article three major changes in the industry were noted.  These are far more important than the nonsense Trump had introduced to the world.  

The shift of the Chinese out of the garment sector continues to present opportunities for increased Bangladesh production.   One should welcome joint ventures with Chinese manufacturers who will bring market access and knowledge and improved technologies.  A detailed investigation of the ways and means to accomplish such a shift must be undertaken. 

The second point dealt with the automation.  It is remarkable that there are not closer research efforts between US and Bangladesh scientists.  The Government is waiting for someone to fund this type of arrangement.  It is the duty of the Government to use its own resources to accelerate automation.  AI will change the industry in the next five years in ways that we cannot now imagine or believe possible.  Either Bangladesh will take up the challenge or lose its current leading position.  If this path is not taken their will be wails of disaster and failure as the industry shrinks.

It is surprising that so little attention is paid to these issues.  Along with the equipment and the automation comes the training.  New methods are developed to improve training.  These must be learned and used.

The third revolution in the industry is in the environmental demands. We know what the demands will focus on reduced energy consumption, careful treatment and recycling of water, treatment of chemicals and safety.

We are fascinated with the Trump tariff show but the real challenges are in the three points noted above.

Nearly 100% RMG factories clear wages, bonuses ahead of Eid-ul-Adha: BGMEA

Among the total 2,092 operational factories — 1,750 in Dhaka and 342 in Chattogram — only seven factories in Dhaka are still in the process of completing May’s wage payments.

File Photo: Rajib Dhar/TBS

File Photo: Rajib Dhar/TBS

All active ready-made garment (RMG) factories in Bangladesh have disbursed salaries for April, while 99.67% have paid wages for May, according to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

The update comes just ahead of Eid-ul-Adha, ensuring that RMG workers can celebrate the festival in a peaceful environment with their families.

In a press statement today (5 June), BGMEA said among the total 2,092 operational factories — 1,750 in Dhaka and 342 in Chattogram — only seven factories in Dhaka are still in the process of completing May’s wage payments.

Nearly 100% of factories have also disbursed Eid bonuses. Only two factories have yet to pay the bonus — one is currently under layoff, and the owner of the other is reportedly out of the country.

BGMEA Administrator Md Anwar Hossain expressed gratitude to factory owners for their commitment to ensuring timely payment despite facing various challenges.

He extended special thanks to the finance, labour, commerce, and home affairs advisers, as well as the Bangladesh Army, law enforcement agencies, intelligence services, the Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishments (DIFE), worker leaders, and the media for their collective efforts in making the wage disbursement process successful.

To reduce holiday traffic congestion, BGMEA has instructed factories to grant Eid holidays in phases.

The staggered leave began on 3 June, with many workers departing Dhaka by 4 June. The remaining workers are expected to begin their holidays today, the statement added.

RMG BANGLADESH NEWS