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Japan wants cash incentive for its exporters in EPZs

The Japanese garment factories, which are housed inside Bangladesh’s export processing zones (EPZs), should enjoy cash incentives against exports to emerging destinations, said Naoki Ito, newly appointed Japanese ambassador to Bangladesh, yesterday.  The apparel companies, which are outside of EPZs, enjoy 4 percent cash incentive on export to non-traditional markets but the Japanese companies are not getting this benefit, he said. Ito was addressing a group of businesspeople from both Bangladesh and Japan at an extraordinary general meeting of the Japan-Bangladesh Chamber of Commerce and Industry (JBCCI) at the Lakeshore hotel in Dhaka. The government has introduced 4 percent cash incentive against export of apparel items to new markets in 2009 to face the fallout of the global financial recession in 2007. In this case, Bangladesh considers all destinations as emerging markets, except the European Union, the USA and Canada. Moreover, the ambassador suggested Bangladesh sign free trade agreements with major trading partners including the Association of Southeast Asian Nations. This will enable Bangladesh to continue to enjoy preferential trade privileges even after graduation from the status of least developed country in 2024, he said. Ito also said a lot of Japanese companies were headed for Bangladesh for investment and business. “The investment climate and business environment needs to improve, particularly, those issues and challenges of the existing companies needs to be addressed,” he said. “The existing companies needs to be taken good care of by the government and the people of Bangladesh,” Naoki also said. If the business climate in Bangladesh improves, the number of Japanese companies will increase here. Currently, some 305 Japanese companies are in operation in Bangladesh and more are in the pipeline, he said. Some of the companies have been facing difficulties and delays in approval procedures for importing necessary cars, machinery, air conditioners and, in the EPZ, old machines, he said narrating a recent visit to Chittagong EPZ. Sometimes the authorities seek very high taxes from the Japanese companies although the tax should be paid in accordance with the sales prices of goods, he said. If these kinds of things continue, the pace of Japanese companies coming here will not be as fast as it was planned, Naoki also said. Yuji Ando, president of the JBCCI, said every month the number of Japanese companies in Bangladesh has been increasing and it would continue to grow. Some 70.3 percent of Japanese companies operating in Bangladesh have plans to expand their business here in the next two years, he said. As of November last year, the amount of investment made by private Japanese companies in Bangladesh was $326 million, excluding Japan Tobacco’s $1.5 billion acquisition of Akij Group’s cigarette business. In recent years, Japan has also turned into a big market for Bangladesh’s garment sector. Japan is the only country among the Asian nations where $1 billion-worth garment items are shipped from Bangladesh. The indication is that the potential of apparel export to Japan this year is about $1.3 billion from Bangladesh. Akhtaruzzaman, an adviser to the JBCCI, and Tareq Rafi Bhuiyan, secretary general, also spoke. 

২৬০৫ গার্মেন্টস মালিক ব্যাংকের গলার কাঁটা

দেশের অর্থনীতির অন্যতম চালিকাশক্তি গার্মেন্টসশিল্প। বিপুলসংখ্যক মানুষ এ শিল্পের সঙ্গে যুক্ত। রপ্তানি আয়ের ৮০ শতাংশই আসে এ খাত থেকে। সেই গার্মেন্টসশিল্পে দুর্দিন নেমে এসেছে। আয় বাড়াতে না পেরে কারখানা বন্ধ করতে বাধ্য হচ্ছেন মালিকরা। চাকরি হারাচ্ছেন শ্রমিক। ভালো ব্যবসার উদ্দেশে পোশাক মালিকদের ব্যাপকহারে ঋণ দিয়ে বিপদ বাড়ছে ব্যাংকগুলোর। ঋণ নিয়ে খেলাপির খাতায় নাম লিখিয়েছেন ২ হাজার ৬০৫ উদ্যোক্তা। ব্যাংকগুলোর আটকে গেছে ১৫ হাজার কোটি টাকা। বর্তমানে এ ঋণ মন্দমানের খেলাপি বা কুঋণ। চলতি বছরের শুরু থেকে ধারাবাহিকভাবে কমছে গার্মেন্টস খাতে রপ্তানি।

গার্মেন্টস মালিকদের সংগঠন বিজিএমইএ ও বস্ত্রশিল্প মালিকদের সংগঠন বিকেএমইএর প্রাপ্ত তথ্য থেকে জানা গেছে, তৈরি পোশাক ও বস্ত্র খাতে সংকট চলছে। এ সংকটের মূল কারণ বিদেশের বাজারে রপ্তানি কমে যাওয়া। কাক্সিক্ষতভাবে আয় করতে না পারায় শিল্পমালিকরা ঋণগ্রস্ত হয়ে পড়ছেন। একাধিক ব্যাংকারের সঙ্গে কথা বলে জানা গেছে, বেশিরভাগ উদ্যোক্তাই ভালোভাবে ব্যবসা করছেন। ব্যাংকের সঙ্গে তাদের লেনদেনও ঠিক আছে। কিছু বাস্তবিক সমস্যায় পড়লে ব্যাংক স্বেচ্ছায় তাদের সহায়তা করছে।

কিন্তু পোশাকশিল্পে কিছু দুর্বৃত্ত প্রবেশ করেছে। অভিজ্ঞতাহীন এসব ব্যক্তি কারখানা খুলে বসেছেন। এরাই বর্তমানে ব্যাংকের গলার কাঁটা। এমন গ্রাহকও পাওয়া গেছে, যারা ব্যাংকের কাছ থেকে ঋণ নিয়েছেন, রপ্তানির নামে নগদ সহায়তা নিয়েছেন জালিয়াতির আশ্রয় নিয়ে। রপ্তানি না করেই ভুয়া বিল তৈরি করা হয়েছে এবং নতুন কারখানার নামে অর্থ হাতিয়ে নিয়েছেন। খেলাপিদের বড় অংশই এমন জালিয়াতির সঙ্গে যুক্ত।

পোশাকশিল্পের সংকট সমাধানে বাণিজ্য মন্ত্রণালয় উদ্যোগ নিয়েছে। সেই উদ্যোগ বাস্তবায়নের জন্য সংকট চিহ্নিত করতে ও খেলাপি ঋণের পরিমাণ জানতে অর্থ মন্ত্রণালয়কে অনুরোধ করে বাণিজ্য মন্ত্রণালয়। গার্মেন্টসে কী পরিমাণ ঋণ ও খেলাপি ঋণ আছে তার তথ্য সংগ্রহ করে প্রতিবেদন করে অর্থ মন্ত্রণালয়।

ওই প্রতিবেদনে দেখা যায়, গত বছরের ডিসেম্বর পর্যন্ত ২১ হাজার ৪৭ জন পোশাক ও বস্ত্র খাতের উদ্যোক্তা ব্যাংকগুলো থেকে ১ লাখ ৭১ হাজার ৮২৬ কোটি টাকা ঋণ নিয়েছেন। এর মধ্যে ২ হাজার ৬০৫ জন খেলাপি হয়ে গেছেন। তাদের কাছে আটকে আছে ১৫ হাজার ৩২ কোটি টাকা। এ ঋণ মন্দমানের খেলাাপি, যা আদায়ের সম্ভাবনা নেই বললেই চলে।

ওই প্রতিবেদনে আরও দেখা যায়, ১৪ হাজার ২৬৮ জন গার্মেন্টস মালিক ৯৩ হাজার ৪২২ কোটি টাকা ঋণ নিয়েছেন। খেলাপি হয়েছেন ১ হাজার ৫৮০ জন। ব্যাংকের আটকে আছে ৮ হাজার ২০২ কোটি টাকা।

অন্যদিকে টেক্সটাইল খাতে দেওয়া ৭৮ হাজার ৪০৩ কোটি টাকা ঋণের মধ্যে ৬ হাজার ৮৯০ কোটি টাকা খেলাপি হয়ে গেছে। এ খাতের ৬ হাজার ৭৭৯ জন উদ্যোক্তা ঋণ নিয়ে খেলাপি হয়েছেন ১ হাজার ২৫ জন।

গার্মেন্টস খাতে বেশি কুঋণ রয়েছে সরকারি ব্যাংকগুলোর। সবচেয়ে বেশি ৩ হাজার ৫২৮ কোটি টাকা কুঋণ রয়েছে জনতা ব্যাংকের। এ ছাড়া সোনালী ব্যাংকের ১ হাজার ৮৫৫ কোটি এবং অগ্রণী ব্যাংকের খেলাপি ঋণ রয়েছে ১ হাজার ৬৬৭ কোটি টাকা।

অগ্রণী ব্যাংকের ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালক (এমডি) শামস উল-ইসলাম আমাদের সময়কে বলেন, গার্মেন্টস খাতে সংকট শুরু হয়েছে; কিন্তু এখনো গুরুতর নয়। ভিয়েতনাম আমাদের টপকে গেছে। গার্মেন্টসশিল্পের শুধু ব্যাংকের সমস্যা নিয়ে চিন্তা করলে হবে না, এটি লাখ লাখ মানুষের কর্মসংস্থানের সঙ্গে জড়িত। তাই খেলাপি হলেও তাদের কীভাবে এগিয়ে নেওয়া যায় সে বিষয়ে সব ধরনের সহযোগিতা করছে ব্যাংকগুলো।

গার্মেন্টসশিল্প মালিকদের খেলাপি হওয়ার বিষয়ে বিজিএমইএ সভাপতি রুবানা হক বলেন, আমাদের সংগঠনের ২৮ জন সদস্য খেলাপি হয়েছেন। তাদের কাছে ব্যাংকগুলোর পাওনা ৫ হাজার ২২৫ কোটি টাকা। তাদের খেলাপি হয়ে যাওয়ার মূল কারণ সক্ষমতার অভাব। অনেকেই সঠিকভাবে ব্যবসা করতে পারছেন না। এই কারণে চলতি বছরের সাত মাসে বন্ধ হয়েছে ৫৯ কারখানা, যেখান থেকে প্রায় ২৯ হাজার ৭০০ শ্রমিক চাকরি হারিয়েছেন।

এদিকে রপ্তানি উন্নয়ন ব্যুরোর (ইপিবি) তথ্যমতে, চলতি অর্থবছরের প্রথম পাঁচ মাসে (জুলাই-নভেম্বর) রপ্তানি আয় হয়েছে ১ হাজার ৫৭৭ কোটি ডলার। গত অর্থবছরের একই সময়ের তুলনায় সাড়ে ৭ শতাংশ কম। এর মধ্যে টেক্সটাইল খাতে রপ্তানি কমেছে ১৩ শতাংশ এবং তৈরি পোশাক খাতে রপ্তানি কমেছে ৭ দশমিক ৭৮ শতাংশ।

Govt drafts rules for DoT registration of textile, RMG factories

The government has taken an initiative to formulate the textile (industry registration) rules under the Textile Act 2018 in an effort to bring the country’s textile and clothing industries under the regulation of the Department of Textile. The textile and jute ministry has prepared a draft guideline for the registration of all types of clothing and textile factories and has sought recommendations from stakeholders on the draft. As per the draft, the apparel and textile industries would have to fulfil a number of criteria, including environmental and workplace related compliances, to obtain licence from the DoT. It said that the factories would have to submit updated versions of all the required documents, install fire extinguishers in premises while discharge of industrial wastage into rivers or other water bodies has been disallowed. The draft also said that factory authorities were not allowed to employ child workers and were required to provide for day care centres and maternity leaves with benefits to female workers to ensure a decent work environment. In order to obtain licence, establishments would have to harvest rain water to reduce the use of ground water, the draft added. The textile ministry sent the draft rule to the respective trade bodies on November 25 and will hold a meeting with the stakeholders on it on December 23. In the draft, the ministry has proposed a registration fee for the factories based on their investments. According to the draft, a licence fee of Tk 5,000 has been proposed for factories with investments of Tk 1-10 crore, Tk 10,000 for factories with investments of Tk 10-25 crore, Tk 25,000 for factories with investment of Tk 25-50 crore, Tk 50,000 for factories with investment Tk 50-100 crore and Tk 1,00,000 for factories with investments of above Tk 100 crore. DoT director general Dilip Kumar Saha told New Age on Thursday that the ministry had initiated the move as all textile and apparel companies were required to obtain registration with the department under the Textile Act 2018. He said that although the provision to become registered had been there for a long time, the formulation of the rule would ensure maintenance of regulation in all sub-sectors of the textile industries, including primary textile, readymade garment, allied textile, packaging and accessories manufacturers. According to the draft, entrepreneurs needed to file applications with the DoT along with the documents of the updated trade licence, income tax certificate, certificate of incorporation as limited company and bank solvency certificate, factory layout plan approved by the Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishments, fire licence and environmental clearance. After the application is filed, the registrar would issue an inspection order within three days following which the inspector would submit his report within 10 days. The registrar would issue a registration certificate to the entity a period of three years based on the eligibility criteria fulfilled during inspection, the draft said.

Women workers more vulnerable to automation

Women workers are more vulnerable than their male counterparts to losing their jobs due to automation in five key sectors in Bangladesh, according to a study. It said women in low-wage occupations with less education are likely to be impacted more due to high risk of automation in readymade garment and textile, furniture, agro-processing, leather and footwear and tourism and hospitality sectors at the beginning of Fourth Industrial Revolution (4IR). “In the five key sectors, two in five jobs are at risk,” said the study titled “Future Skills: Finding Emerging Skills to Tackle the Challenges of Automation in Bangladesh” conducted recently by Access to Information (a2i) programme under ICT Division. The aim of the research was to assess the present situation on occupational role and skills in the key sectors at the advent of 4IR. To extend insights beyond main occupations and sectors at risk of automation, several socio-demographic indicators have been analysed to further understand how workplace automation affects different segments of the workforce. Also in these sectors, young workers aged between 18 and 24 are more susceptible to having an occupation in relation to adult workers, although age-based disparity is considerably lower than the gaps by sex, the study has revealed. Education levels produce different odds of occupying a high-risk job. Workers with primary education are more at risk of losing jobs than those having secondary school education, the study said. “Higher education and training helps develop competency needed for complicated tasks requiring advanced level of perception and manipulation as well as creative and social intelligence,” it added. Low level and low quality postsecondary and tertiary education and training as well as low educational attainment level among the workforce are matters of concern. However, a recent study released by US-based research firm McKinsey in October 2018 forecast that many garment manufacturing countries might incur a substantial loss of business and employment reduction due to automation. Over 50 per cent of imported readymade garments would be manufactured by 2025 near Europe and the USA, away from Asia, according to about 25 per cent of global sourcing executives who were surveyed. Asad-Uz-Zaman, policy specialist at a2i, told the FE that the RMG sector along with some other sectors is facing the risk of automation as employers are cutting jobs on a small scale. He also underscored the need for market-driven skills and proper training for women workers. Dhaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry (DCCI) president Osama Taseer in a statement said advanced economics are seriously concerned that automation and robots powered by artificial intelligence will axe many occupations and wipe out skills from the workplace. The RMG industry which accounts for 84 per cent of export earnings and employs directly 32.52 per cent of total employed population in the industrial sector and 6.58 per cent of total employed population in Bangladesh is undergoing structural changes encompassing automation and higher productivity, he added. Due to this automation process, the DCCI chief said, many skills will become obsolete and many jobs will disappear within a short time. He also put emphasis on re-skills and up-skills to prepare the workforce for future jobs, focusing on big data analytics, drone and robot operators, large sorting and planting machine operators, mechanical engineering, artificial intelligence network experts, technology-driven services, computer-aided process and enterprise resources planning experts.

Philippines foresees 45% rise in garment-textile exports

The Philippines garment and textiles industry roadmap, launched recently at an industry forum, foresees the country becoming one of the top ten global players with annual exports growth of 45 per cent if it implements some recommendations, including elimination of the popular ‘ukay-ukay’ (used imported clothing) and the utilisation of natural fibres. The plan covering 2020-2029 was divided into three milestones: short-term (2020-2022), medium term (2023-2025) and long-term (2026-2029). Under the short term milestones, the Philippines should already be among the top 20 garment exporters with annual growth of 12.3 per cent in garment exports and 3-5 per cent increase in textile exports. This should be made possible with the increase in the utilisation of natural and synthetic textile fibre by 5-10 per cent, according to media reports in the Philippines. Under this milestone, the government was urged to address smuggling and proliferation of ukay-ukay. Incentives to the industry was also pushed in the short term for the innovative product processing that promotes sustainability and green environment. Reduction of the 12 per cent value added tax was also pushed. For the short term milestone, the roadmap forecasts the Philippines to improve its world ranking in garment exports into the top 15 largest globally. It is expected to increase its garments by 21.7 per cent annually and 10 per cent increase in natural and synthetic textile fibre. This milestone has called for the government to address infrastructure gaps and logistical bottlenecks. It also urged for production efficiency, transportation , communication and distribution through high-quality infrastructure and logistical services. Export market diversification must also be pursued with more bilateral free trade agreements with emerging markets to reduce dependency on the US and European Union markets. Improved research and development must be pursued to come up with innovative products. For the long-term, the roadmap said that an annual 45.8 per cent increase in the exports of garments is attainable by 2026-2029. This milestone has foreseen the Philippines already at the top ten of the world’s biggest garment exporters.

$50b export not achievable by 2021: BGMEA president

Bangladesh will not be able to export $50 billion-worth apparel products by 2021 because of low valuation and declining global trade, according to Rubana Huq, president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), yesterday.  “We should concentrate more on value addition rather than setting numbers (export target),” she told a programme on the resilience of the RMG sector’s supply chain organised by the Planning Commission at Bangabandhu International Conference Center. She said the target was set in 2014, just one year after the Rana Plaza collapse, but the world market now was going down because of declining trade and consumption. According to World Trade Organisation, the world trade forecast took a downward turn to 1.2 percent for 2019 from a previous 2.6 percent. She questioned why this target had been set as there was no significant value addition occurring in the garment industry. “Our target should be on adding more value, not just a number,” said Huq. She said RMG’s contribution to the GDP was only 11 percent, which clearly indicated that the value addition was very little. Huq said the garment sector was going through a very bad time as exports had witnessed negative growth of over 6 percent in the past five months of the fiscal year. She pointed out some reasons behind the RMG’s lower growth including economic recession around the world and pressure from the nation’s currency. The BGMEA president stressed on having a plan for diversification of industries. She said the Accord and Alliance came in 2013 with some prescriptions where the national context was missing. One example is that fire alarm systems were imported follow their prescription but those did not work in Bangladesh for inconsistencies with the country’s humidity patterns. “We have spent $1.5 billion in the process. Is this a joke?”

অপ্রচলিত বাজারেও রফতানি কমছে পোশাকের

দেশ থেকে রফতানি হওয়া পণ্যের ৮৪ শতাংশই তৈরি পোশাক। এ পণ্যের ৮০ শতাংশই রফতানি হয় ইউরোপ ও যুক্তরাষ্ট্রে। সাম্প্রতিক সময় প্রচলিত এ বাজারগুলোয় পোশাকের রফতানি কমেছে বাংলাদেশের। এখন অপ্রচলিত বাজারগুলোতেও পোশাক রফতানি কমছে।

রপ্তানী উন্নয়ন ব্যুরো (ইপিবি) প্রকাশিত পরিসংখ্যান বিশ্লেষণে দেখা যাচ্ছে, দেশ থেকে পোশাক রফতানির ৬১ শতাংশ যায় ইউরোপের দেশগুলোয়। আর যুক্তরাষ্ট্রে যায় ১৭ দশমিক ৯৭ শতাংশ। বিশ্বের মোট ১১টি দেশকে পোশাক রফতানির অপ্রচলিত বাজার হিসেবে বিবেচনা করা হয়। মোট পোশাক রফতানির ১৬ শতাংশ হয় অপ্রচলিত বাজারের এ দেশগুলোয়।

ইপিবির পরিসংখ্যান বলছে, গত তিন অর্থবছরে অপ্রচলিত বাজারে বাংলাদেশের পোশাক রফতানি ক্রমেই বেড়েছে। ২০১৭-১৮ অর্থবছরের তুলনায় ২০১৮-১৯ অর্থবছরে অপ্রচলিত বাজারে বাংলাদেশের রফতানি বেড়েছিল ২২ দশমিক ৭৭ শতাংশ। কিন্তু চলতি অর্থবছরের পাঁচ মাসে (জুলাই-নভেম্বর) রফতানি কমেছে ৬ দশমিক ৬ শতাংশ।

বিজিএমইএর তথ্যমতে, পোশাক রফতানির অপ্রচলিত হিসেবে বিবেচিত বাজারের দেশগুলোর মধ্যে আছে অস্ট্রেলিয়া, ব্রাজিল, চিলি, চীন, ভারত, জাপান, কোরিয়া প্রজাতন্ত্র, মেক্সিকো, রাশিয়া, দক্ষিণ কোরিয়া, তুরস্ক এবং অন্যান্য। এর মধ্যে বেশি রফতানি হয় জাপান, অস্ট্রেলিয়া, চীন, ভারত ও রাশিয়ায়। এগুলোর মধ্যে ভারত ছাড়া বাকি চার দেশেই পোশাকের রফতানি কমেছে।

২০১৮-১৯ অর্থবছরে আগের অর্থবছরের তুলনায় জাপানে রফতানি বেড়েছিল ২৮ দশমিক ৯ শতাংশ। এদিকে চলতি অর্থবছরের পাঁচ মাসে গত অর্থবছরের একই সময়ের তুলনায় দেশটিতে রফতানি কমেছে ৪ দশমিক ৫ শতাংশ। ২০১৮-১৯ অর্থবছর শেষে অস্ট্রেলিয়ায় পোশাক রফতানি প্রবৃদ্ধি ছিল ১৩ দশমিক ৫৩ শতাংশ। তবে দেশটিতে চলতি অর্থবছরের পাঁচ মাসে রফতানির এ পরিমাণ গত অর্থবছরের একই সময়ের তুলনায় কমেছে ৭ দশমিক ১৭ শতাংশ।

চীনে ২০১৮-১৯ অর্থবছর শেষে পোশাক রফতানি বেড়েছিল ২৯ দশমিক ৩৩ শতাংশ। কিন্তু চলতি অর্থবছরের পাঁচ মাসে কমেছে ২১ দশমিক ৪৭ শতাংশ। রাশিয়ায় ২০১৮-১৯ অর্থবছর শেষে পোশাক রফতানির প্রবৃদ্ধি ছিল ১৪ দশমিক ১৭ শতাংশ। চলতি অর্থবছরের পাঁচ মাসে দেশটিতে পোশাক রফতানি কমেছে ২ দশমিক ৭৪ শতাংশ। অপ্রচলিত বাজারগুলোর মধ্যে পোশাক রফতানি সবচেয়ে বেশি কমেছে তুরস্ক, ব্রাজিল, চীন ও দক্ষিণ আফ্রিকায়। তুরস্কে কমেছে ৩৪ দশমিক ৯২ শতাংশ, ব্রাজিলে ৩৪ দশমিক ১২ শতাংশ ও দক্ষিণ আফ্রিকায় কমেছে ১৯ দশমিক ৪৭ শতাংশ।

বৈদেশিক বাণিজ্যের বিশেষজ্ঞরা বলছেন, বাজারভেদে নতুন বাজারগুলোর সমস্যা ভিন্ন। আর এর মধ্যে শুল্ক ও অশুল্ক সব ধরনের সমস্যাই রয়েছে। পাশাপাশি সাম্প্রতিক সময়ে বাংলাদেশে মুদ্রা বিনিময় মূল্যের হার রফতানিকারকদের প্রতিযোগিতা সক্ষমতা কমিয়ে দিয়েছে। তবে সব কিছু ছাপিয়ে পোশাক ক্রয়ে ক্রেতার চাহিদার সঙ্গে সামঞ্জস্যতা রেখে তৈরি পোশাক উৎপাদন হচ্ছে না, এ কারণটিতেও গুরুত্ব দিচ্ছেন খাতসংশ্লিষ্টরা।

বিজিএমইএ সভাপতি ড. রুবানা হক বণিক বার্তাকে বলেন, আমাদের তৈরি পণ্যে বৈচিত্র্য আনা প্রয়োজন। কটনভিত্তিক পণ্য উৎপাদন থেকে মনোযোগ সরাতে হবে। অবশ্যই নতুন বাজারের দিকেও মনোনিবেশ করতে হবে। কিন্তু নতুন বাজারের জন্য চাহিদা ও আমাদের উৎপাদিত পণ্যের পার্থক্য রয়েছে।

Living wage for RMG workers: Only 21 global brands, retailers strike deal

Twenty-one global brands and buyers have so far signed a collaborative deal that seeks to ensure living wage for garment, textile and footwear workers, including those in Bangladesh. The brands are Arcadia, Asos, Bestseller, H&M, C&A, Cotton on, Esprit, Inditex, Kmart, NBrown, Lidl, Primark, Pentland, Debenhams, PVH, G-Star Raw, Tesco, Tchibo, New Look, Next and Zalando. The agreement called ‘ACT’ (action, collaboration and transformation) was made between corporate signatories and IndustriAll Global Union in 2016. It aims to establish freedom of association and achieve living wage for workers through collective bargaining at industries linked to purchasing practices. To achieve its target, sources said, ACT has recently started consultations with Bangladesh to explore the potential for future engagement. ACT delegates had follow-up meetings with national stakeholders in Cambodia and Turkey while initial country consultations were held in Myanmar. It sat with Bangladeshi ready-made garment (RMG) sector leaders and local IndustriAll-affiliated rights groups on November 27 to discuss the deal and relevant issues. Bangladesh Apparel Workers Federation president Towhidur Rahman, also IndustriAll Bangladesh Council former secretary general, said multiple RMG federations and IGU-affiliated units attended the meeting. Workers need a living wage and it is entrepreneurs, who would implement it, need the ability to pay, he added. Brands should have a written commitment to this end that they would properly raise their products’ prices in ensuring living wage, he added. Sammilita Garments Sramik Federation president Nazma Akter said no specific decision came from the latest meeting as it was just an initial discussion on ACT. She, however, laid stress on unionism in factories to bargain, transparency in buyers’ purchasing behaviour and other practices, fair price of products to make suppliers pay a living wage. “As nearly 300 brands and retailers source apparel from Bangladesh, at least 200 buyers should come under ACT to make it successful,” she said, citing the number of Accord signatories. Accord, a platform of more than 200 brands and retailers mainly based in European Union, was formed after the Rana Plaza collapse to improve garment factories’ safety in Bangladesh. Fire, electrical and structural safety in some 1,600 factories has been inspected since 2014 and more than 80 per cent of safety flaws fixed under Accord. Labour leaders, however, called for bringing more brands under the umbrella and they would bargain with their counterparts (factory owners) for living wage once a written commitment is made. When asked, International Labour Organization Bangladesh country director Tuomo Poutiainen said ACT promotes collective bargaining at industry and sartorial level. “Supported by many of the big garment buyers and global trade unions, this adds a welcome new element to the industry where collective bargaining has been very much lacking,” he noted. “Establishment of the collective bargaining process will also bring the parties more together, and hopefully pave new ways to cooperate in future.” “Brands and retailers will ensure that their purchasing practices facilitate the payment of a living wage,” according to the ACT memorandum of understanding available on its official website. ACT defines a living wage as “the minimum income necessary for a worker to meet the basic needs of themselves and their family, including some discretionary income”. “This should be earned during legal working hour limits and should not include overtime,” it adds. The ACT member brands also recognise a strong link between purchasing practices, working conditions and the payment of a living wage, it reads. Poor purchasing practices can have a negative impact on suppliers and workers in the global supply chain and can contribute to poor working conditions, unauthorised subcontracting, industry people said. Non-compliance also causes labour dispute and strike and wage which do not cover the basic needs of workers and their families in garment-producing countries. According to ACT, member brands would support substantial wage growth by incorporating higher wages into their purchasing prices and would support efforts to increase productivity and efficiency.

Jhut export on the rise, recycled yarn producers feel the pinch

Increasing export of jhut or leftover scraps of fabric, a by-product of ready-made garment (RMG) sector has hit the local recycled yarn producers. Earlier, there was a big local market for recycled yarns as factories producing gamcha (towel), lungi, quilt and curtains used to rely on the recycled material, but they are now turning to imported yarns, industry insiders said. The jhut export has been increasing around 15 to 20 per cent a year for the last five years, forcing many local recycled textile units to shut down their production lines.  According to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, the country exported jhut or RMG waste worth US$64.95 million in fiscal year (FY) 2018-19, US$56.68 million in FY 2017-18, US$52.81 million in FY 2016-17 and US$44.20 million in FY 2015-16.  In the past five months of the current fiscal, around US$33 million worth of jhut were shipped abroad. The figure would likely reach around US$70 million at the end of FY ’20, an EPB official said. The growing export of jhut has made it difficult for many factories to procure the material to feed their production lines. One of them is Mother Textile, one of the largest and oldest recycled yarn producers in the country. Currently, three units of the five-unit textile factory produce 600 bags of recycled yarn a day, although they have the capacity of churning out 1000 bags of recycled yarn a day. “We are the largest recycled yarn producer in the country, and the oldest,” Aliza Sultan, managing Director of Mother Textile, told The Financial Express. “When we started recycled yarn production in 2003, there was no modern technology,” she said, adding that many followed suit later. She also said, “Many recycled yarn units have shut down their production lines. Only we meet 80 per cent of demand for local recycled fabrics.”  “As the local textile sector has been feeling the heat of Chinese and Indian yarn, we are trying to diversify our business,” said Ms Aliza. They are now trying to save the industry by diversifying their business following a two-year shutdown as a loan defaulter, she said.  “We have resumed production two years back and now we are already in profit,” said Aliza Sultan, daughter-in-law of Sultan Ahmed, who established the factory in 1993. “We are now also trying to collect foreign funds to fully resume our business,” she added. Mother Textile had been a leading defaulter with state-owned Rupali Bank for many years with accumulated loans of around Tk 12 billion. The company, however, is no more on the defaulters’ list as it has rescheduled their loans, said Ms Sultan. She also said they want to pay back loans in installments and start full-fledged production activities in order to pay off entire loans in time.  “But we now don’t get enough jhut to run our production lines. On the other hand, recycled yarns coming from India and China are also cheaper than locally manufactured yarns,” she said. Jhinuk Textile, a Narayanganj-based recycled yarn factory, has recently shut down their production. Khorshed Alam, managing director of Jhinuk, said they are losing out to Indian and Chinese competitors. “We now require modernised factories to produce recycled yarns from RMG jhut. So, it’s better to export the material,” said Mr Alam, also an exporter.  If the government provides special incentives, the recycled yarn producers can continue their production, he added. According to the Bangladesh Garment and Textile Waste Exporters Association (BGTWEA), the market size of RMG by-products is around Tk 20 billion. The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) sources said there are some 4,000 active RMG units producing over 351,000 tonnes of by-products. An industry source said a typical factory produces around 250 kg of waste fabric a day. There is no official data available about garment manufacturing by-products. Jhutpatti of Mirpur in Dhaka is the largest hub of jhut business in the country. Abul Kalam, a jhut trader in this market, said small pieces of cloth are the raw materials of his business. “Any piece of cloth we can recycle. There is a huge demand for wastes of T-shirt,” he said. There are two categories of jhut, one comes from woven fabrics and another from knit fabrics. The price of ‘Woven jhut’ is low, but the price of ‘Knit Jhut’ is comparatively high. They are sold as an alternative to cotton yarn in the local market. The advantage is that cotton prices are high, but jhut is cheaper.

BD textile, RMG cos to be introduced with ‘Serai’

Serai, a subsidiary of HSBC Group, vows to be a catalyst for textile and RMG industry of Bangladesh bringing it under digital era riding on trailblazing innovative products. Serai also offered Bangladeshi businesses to help expand trade globally. “Textile and RMG segment is the single largest manufacturing industry in the world, employing millions of people. Serai believes there’s huge potential for this industry to benefit from digitisation. The sector is going through intense changes and there’s been a drive for transparency, which makes it the ideal starting point for Serai’s platform and we hope that Serai can be a catalyst for the industry to evolve into the digital era,” Vivek Ramachandran, Chief Executive Officer of Serai told the Financial Express in an  e-mail interview on Wednesday. A team from Serai, led by Vivek Ramachandran is now visiting Bangladesh. “We are in Bangladesh to introduce the Serai platform to the local textile and garments industry through local market engagements this week and we’ll continue to run more activity in 2020. We have also opened up a waitlist signup for companies who are interested to learn more about the platform.” Based in Hong Kong, Serai has the strength of a global bank and the agility of a start-up. They create new solutions to shape the future of international trade. Replying to a question on the problems faced by the company and its subsequent solution, he said Serai’s mission is to simplify trade, to create a truly interconnected global network of businesses around the world.  “Serai helps companies to build networks they know and trust, paving the way for transparent and sustainable supply chains. The whole concept here is a network of interested parties who gain value from interacting with each other.” “The B2C world has radically changed thanks to technology. The B2B world unfortunately has been comparatively less impacted and remains too complex. For example, how companies find parties to interact and trade with hasn’t changed since the 1960s. Serai is going to change that,” the CEO asserted. Serai allows companies to showcase their capabilities, find new connections, and build new / strengthen existing relationships. “The Serai platform is currently by invitation only. Over time, there will be other proprietary and third party solutions on the platform ranging from insurance, accounting, freight forwarding or procurement, logistics and more to serve the needs of Serai customers,” he disclosed. On its relationship and synergy with HSBC, he informed Serai started with a few of the corporate members within HSBC realising that how companies do business with each other remains unnecessarily complex. Financing is just one aspect of this complexity. “We wanted to explore solutions that look beyond banking to help businesses release their untapped potential. A team was put together to start ideating solutions with a focus on solving pain points faced by businesses, large and small – and that’s when we came up with the concept of Serai.” Serai was established as a separate entity in December 2018 and is a registered company in Hong Kong, wholly-owned by HSBC. Serai now has the resources and backing of HSBC, but more importantly, it has the agility and flexibility of a start-up, and we have an incredible opportunity to kind of really change how companies build relationships and transact. “Serai’s focus is beyond banking – we’re looking to help businesses successfully navigate the waters of international trade. So we are actively developing non-banking applications and products that serve the needs of this segment.” Talking about Serai’s outlook of next 10 years, he said just like every professional today is likely to have a LinkedIn profile, I would expect every company in the world to have a Serai profile. “If you’re trying to build a relationship with anyone across the world you haven’t dealt with, you would go to Serai to understand who they are, to learn about them, and to make a connection. Serai aims to become that platform which provides a canvas for companies all over the world, independent of size, independent of sector, independent of geography, to build connections, to build relationships, and start trusting each other. When this happens, then we have really succeeded.” “Our vision is that Serai will be the platform of choice for businesses when they are looking for trusted and credible partners to do business with. Ultimately, we want to deliver innovative trade solutions that further the good of domestic and cross border trade.” Success for Serai would be bringing people onto the platform, getting the people on that platform trading with each other and connecting with each other. Success would be platform members – the buyers and suppliers – feeling that Serai is delivering enhanced value to them, and they get something out of it that they’ve not been able to get before. Repying to another question on its business model and source of funding, he said basic access to the Serai platform will be free of charge, at the core of that, businesses can join Serai, set up a company profile to showcase themselves on our global platform, and be able to search and connect with other businesses to build relationships. “We see the commercialisation of our business coming from providing premium products and services on the platform that deliver value to our customers. Our top priority right now is to grow users on the platform, to help businesses connect and we believe monetization will come once we prove we can help our customers and bring value to them.”

RMG BANGLADESH NEWS