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Bangla RMG makers ask buyers to increase product prices

Bangladesh readymade garment (RMG) exporters recently called on buyers and retailers to ensure a sustainable RMG sector by raising product prices. They also demanded a 5 per cent cash incentive for the sector for three years, saying the industry experiences huge pressure of wage hike, energy price rise, remediation cost and low prices of products. The demand was made at a meeting on sustainability of the RMG sector in the country organised by the Dhaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry. Despite having a decent number of green factories, the country is not getting decent prices for its products, said Rubana Huq, president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). The sector is yet to gain maturity in price negotiation, she said. Commerce minister Tipu Munshi said energy prices, cost of port and infrastructural weaknesses are reducing the competitive edge of the RMG sector, which needs some incentives and support for a certain period. Munshi said a free trade agreement with Sri Lanka may be signed within a month.

Buyers concerned over labour, rights situation in Cambodia

A group of international garment businesses, including Nike, Adidas, and Levi Strauss, recently expressed concern over the labour and human rights situation in Cambodia. In a letter to Prime Minister Hun Sen, the group urged him to listen to the concerns of the European Union (EU) regarding labour and human rights violations in the country. The situation is posing a risk to trade preferences for Cambodia and many of the signatories have previously raised these concerns through multiple channels with the Cambodian Government, the letter said. The success of the country’s garment sector has gone hand-in-hand with its adoption and adherence to high labour standards, such as those set by the International Labour Organisation (ILO), a report in a Cambodian newspaper cited the letter as saying. In February, the European Commission launched the process that could lead to the suspension of the country’s preferential access to the EU market under the Everything-But-Arms (EBA) trade scheme. The EU is concerned about democratic setbacks in the country, including the dissolution of the main opposition party, the Cambodia National Rescue Party (CNRP), in 2017. In January, US senators Ted Cruz and Chris Coons introduced the Cambodian Trade Act of 2019, which would require the US Government to review the preferential trade treatment Cambodia receives under the generalised system of preferences (GSP) scheme. Cambodia has around 1,200 garment and footwear factories, employing nearly 800,000 people, four-fifths of whom are women.

A&E to display Integrity threads at Texprocess show

American & Efird (A&E) will be previewing its new line of advanced identification threads, branded ‘Integrity’, at the Texprocess show, from May 14-17, 2019, in Frankfurt, Germany. A&E is a portfolio company of Elevate Textiles and a leading manufacturer and distributor of industrial and consumer sewing thread, embroidery thread, and technical textiles. “One of the big challenges brands face today centres around authenticity. Loss of revenue, reputation, and brand trust are some of the potential outcomes of counterfeit products. We are looking forward to previewing our new ‘Integrity’ line at the upcoming Texprocess show in Frankfurt,” A&E president, Chris Alt said in a press release. Well known for its leadership role in innovation, product quality, and sustainability, A&E supports many of the world’s top industrial and consumer brands with thread products that require strict quality and performance. A&E’s new Integrity thread line provides a tool which adds advanced identification for greater visibility and transparency into their product creation process. “Our collaboration with A&E to adopt the CertainT platform globally is a key breakthrough for brands, which have not had the benefit of forensic systems to help them resolve counterfeit and diversion in their supply chains. We look forward to providing our full spectrum molecular brand assurance that also includes forensic expert witness and authentication services to support A&E and its customers in apparel, footwear, automotive, military, and beyond,” James Hayward, president and CEO of Applied DNA said.

Kenya approves setting up of textile factory in EPZ

The Kenyan Government recently approved setting up of a big textile factory by Mas Holdings Singapore, a Sri Lankan apparel and textile manufacturer, in the export processing zone (EPZ) in what is being projected as a big boost for President Uhuru Kenyatta’s employment generation plans. The unit will create jobs for 3,100 once operational in Machakos County. With an investment of Sh1.5 billion, Mass Holdings Singapore Pte EPZ Ltd will leave behind Hela Clothing, which employs 1,500 workers, as the largest apparel and textile manufacturer in the country, according to a Kenyan newspaper report. The unit in the Athi River textile hub is expected to start operations in June. Mas Holdings will export products to the United States, the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. Mas Holdings has a presence in 16 countries. It has received financing of Sh1.1 billion, including Sh900 million in foreign loans, Sh181 million in paid-up capital from shareholders, and a similar amount of money in authorised capital. The President aims to create over 500,000 cotton jobs and 100,000 apparel jobs.

এফটিএ করে ব্রাজিলে রফতানি বাড়াবে বাংলাদেশ

বাণিজ্যমন্ত্রী টিপু মুনশি বলেছেন, ব্রাজিল বাংলাদেশের তৈরি পোশাক রফতানির সম্ভাবনাময় বড় বাজার। ব্রাজিলের সঙ্গে বাংলাদেশে বাণিজ্য বৃদ্ধির প্রচুর সুযোগ রয়েছে। বিশেষ করে তৈরি পোশাকের সম্ভাবনা বেশি। উচ্চ শুল্ক হারের কারণে ব্রাজিলে বাংলাদেশ তৈরি পোশাক আশানুরূপ রফতানি হচ্ছে না। উভয় দেশের ব্যবসায়ীদের সফর বিনিময় ও ফ্রি ট্রেড এগ্রিমেন্ট (এফটিএ) স্বাক্ষরের মাধ্যমে ব্রাজিলের সঙ্গে বাংলাদেশের বাণিজ্য সম্প্রসারণের উদ্যোগ নেওয়া হবে। সোমবার বাণিজ্য মন্ত্রণালয়ে মন্ত্রীর অফিস কক্ষে ঢাকায় নিযুক্ত ব্রাজিলের রাষ্ট্রদূত জোয়া তাবাজারা ডি ওলিভেরিয়া জুনিয়রের সঙ্গে মতবিনিময়কালে তিনি এসব কথা বলেন। বাণিজ্যমন্ত্রী বলেন, ‘গত অর্থবছর বাংলাদেশ ব্রাজিলে ১৭৬ দশমিক ৮৯ মিলিয়ন মার্কিন ডলার মূল্যের পণ্য রফতানি করেছে, একই সময়ে আমদানি করা হয়েছে ১৫২০ দশমিক ৬১ মিলিয়ন মার্কিন ডলার মূল্যের পণ্য। ব্রাজিলের বিনিয়োগকারীরা বাংলাদেশে বিনিয়োগ করতে পারেন। বাংলাদেশ সরকার ১০০টি স্পেশাল ইকোনমিক জোনে বিনিয়োগের জন্য বিশেষ সুযোগ-সুবিধা ঘোষণা করেছে। এসব ইকোনমিক জোনে বিনিয়োগ করলে ব্রাজিলের বিনিয়োগকারীরা বেশি লাভবান হবেন।’ টিপু মুনশি বলেন, ‘বাংলাদেশের তৈরি পোশাক শিল্পের মালিক ও এফবিসিসিআইয়ের কর্মকর্তাদের সঙ্গে আলাপ-আলোচনা করে দ্রæত ব্রাজিলের সঙ্গে বাণিজ্য বৃদ্ধির বিষয়ে প্রয়োজনীয় কার্যকর পদক্ষেপ নেওয়া হবে। বাংলাদেশের তৈরি পোশাক কারখানাগুলো ব্রাজিলের ব্যবসায়ীদের দেখানো দরকার। উভয় দেশের ব্যবসায়ীরা বৈঠকে বসলে বাণিজ্যের সদস্যসাগুলো চিহ্নিত করে তা সমাধান করা সম্ভব। উভয় দেশের ব্যবসায়ীরা চাচ্ছেন বাণিজ্য শুরু করতে, এখন প্রয়োজন কার্যকর উদ্যোগ। বাণিজ্য মন্ত্রণালয় সে উদ্যোগ নেবে। এত করে জুতা, মাছসহ অনেক পণ্য রফতানি বৃদ্ধি পাবে।’

ব্রাজিলের রাষ্ট্রদূত বলেন, ‘বাংলাদেশের সঙ্গে ব্রাজিলের বিপুল বাণিজ্য সম্ভাবনা রয়েছে। বাংলাদেশের তৈরি পোশাকের প্রচুর চাহিদা রয়েছে ব্রাজিলে। ব্রাজিলের ব্যবসায়ীরাও বাংলাদেশের সঙ্গে ব্যবসা করতে আগ্রহী। উভয় দেশের মধ্যে এফটিএ সম্পাদনের মাধ্যমে উচ্চ শুল্কহার কমিয়ে বাণিজ্য সুযোগ সৃষ্টি করা সম্ভব। ব্রাজিলের বাণিজ্য মারকোসুর নামে একটি আঞ্চলিক বাণিজ্য জোট দ্বারা পরিচালিত হয়। এর সদস্য রাষ্ট্রগুলো হলোÑ আর্জেন্টিনা, ব্রাজিল, প্যারাগুয়ে এবং উরুগুয়ে। এ ছাড়াÑ বলিভিয়া, চিলি, কলম্বিয়া, ইকুয়েডর, গায়ানা, পেরু ও সুরিনাম এ জোটের সহযোগী সদস্য। পূর্ণ সদস্যভুক্ত দেশগুলোর জনসংখ্যা প্রায় ৩০০ মিলিয়ন, গড় মাথাপিছু আয় ১০ হাজার মার্কিন ডলার। ব্রাজিল আধুনিক পদ্ধতিতে বিশ্ববাণিজ্য করে থাকে। বাংলাদেশের ব্যবসায়ীরা এগিয়ে এলে বাণিজ্য করা সম্ভব। উভয় দেশের ব্যবসায়ীদের বসে কথা বলতে হবে। ব্রাজিলের ব্যবসায়ীরা বাংলাদেশের তৈরি পোশাক সম্পর্কে বেশি অবহিত নয়। উভয় দেশের ব্যবসায়ীদের উদ্যোগী হতে হবে।

22% RMG workers face sexual harassment

An estimated 22.4 percent female readymade garment (RMG) workers face sexual harassment at factories, a study by Manusher Jonno Foundation (MJF) finds, reports UNB. MJF Executive Director Shaheen Anam said the study was conducted at 22 factories in Dhaka and Chattogram between March and May last year. Speaking as the chief guest at the event held at the Jatiya Press Club, Shirin Akther, MP said girls are victims of sexual harassment at education institutions, too. She urged the authorities concerned to be more conscious in this regard. President of Karmajibi Nari Dr Pratima Paul Majumder said awareness is the most important tool to curb sexual violence at education institutions and the workplace. “The rate of sexual harassment will go down when there’ll be a good relationship between the workers and factory owners,” she said. The study identified a culture of impunity, inaction and nonchalant attitude of authorities towards sexual harassment as some of the key reasons for this workplace menace. The majority of male and female respondents said women fall victims to sexual harassment as they are weak and do not protest. But 21 percent male and seven percent female respondents were of the opinion that women become victims to sexual harassment because of their dresses. Ylva Sahlstrand, second secretary of Swedish International Development Cooperation Agency, said the female workers need to be conscious at workplaces. “Education can create the awareness,” she said. “Anti-sexual committees must support female workers. Factories owners, management and trade unions should come forward in this regard. Besides, social dialogue is also needed here,” Sahlstrand added.

Ethiopia’s garment workers are world’s lowest paid

Ethiopian garment factory workers are now, on average, the lowest paid in any major garment-producing company worldwide, a new report says. The report by the New York University Stern Center for Business and Human Rights comes as Ethiopia, one of Africa’s fastest-growing economies, pursues a bold economic experiment by inviting the global garment industry to set up shop in its mushrooming industrial parks. “The government’s eagerness to attract foreign investment led it to promote the lowest base wage in any garment-producing country – now set at the equivalent of $26 a month,” according to the authors of the report, Paul M. Barrett and Dorothée Baumann-Pauly. In comparison, Chinese garment workers earn $340 a month, those in Kenya earn $207 and those in Bangladesh earn $95. Drawn by the newly built industrial parks and a range of financial incentives, manufacturers for some of the world’s best-known brands – among them H&M, Gap, and PVH – employ tens of thousands of Ethiopian workers in a sector the government predicts will one day have billions of dollars in sales. The new report is based on a visit earlier this year to the flagship Hawassa Industrial Park that opened in June 2017 in southern Ethiopia and currently employs 25,000 people. Ethiopian leaders often show off the industrial park, 140 miles (225 kilometers) south of Addis Ababa, to visiting foreign dignitaries. According to the report, most young Ethiopian workers are hardly able to get by to the end of the month and are not able to support family members. “I’m left with nothing at the end of the month,” one factory worker, Ayelech Geletu, 21, told The Associated Press last year. The minimum monthly living wage in Ethiopia is about $110), according to Ayele Gelan, a research economist at the Kuwait Institute for Scientific Research. “Given relatively little training, restive employees have protested by stopping work or quitting altogether. Productivity in the Hawassa factories typically is low, while worker disillusionment and attrition are high,” the report says. Ethiopian politics are also unexpectedly disrupting factory operations. “The Ethiopian government should address ethnic tension in Hawassa and elsewhere,” the report says. It calls on the government to implement a long-term economic plan for strengthening the apparel industry and establish a minimum wage that ensures decent living conditions. Abebe Abebayehu, head of Ethiopia’s Investment Commission, told the AP that most garment and apparel factories prefer to locate in places with low labor costs. “If that was not the case, Chinese companies wouldn’t have come to Ethiopia,” he said. He also questioned the report’s monthly pay figure of $26 per month: “That is a basic salary but in Ethiopia the factories also provide a workplace meal and other services.”

BGMEA again asks units to give foreign staff info

bgmea building

The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) again asked its member factories to provide information on foreigners working in the country’s ready-made garment (RMG) industry. The BGMEA issued a circular on April 29, seeking the foreign personnel’s information on an emergency basis. It is necessary to identify local skill gap for sustaining the growth of RMG industry, and to know especially how many foreigners are working here and in which posts, the circular read. It also asked for other information, including foreigners’ name, post, duration and nature of work (temporary or regular), nationality and their monthly salary. When asked, Dr Rubana Huq, the BGMEA president, said they will repeatedly remind their member factories until they provide the information. It is also important to ensure transparency in the sector, she noted. In October 2015, the BGMEA asked its members to provide lists of the foreign staff working in their companies to the trade-body. The BGMEA’s move came, as the law-enforcement agencies beefed up security for the foreigners, living in Bangladesh, following the murders of two foreign citizens then in Dhaka and Rangpur, sources said. But most of the RMG factory owners did not respond to the call, and only about 50 factories provided information to the apex apparel body, they added. According to the BGMEA’s official website, some 4,500 factories are members of the association. The industry insiders opined that thousands of foreigners are engaged in RMG sector, including in garment factories, buying houses and local liaison offices of global buyers and brands. The foreigners, mostly from India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, China, Taiwan, South Korea and some European and African countries, are working in Bangladesh. Besides RMG, they are also engaged in IT and some other manufacturing industries. But many of these foreign employees are illegally staying in Bangladesh, even after expiry of their work-permit. On the other hand, many of the garment factory authorities are not interested to provide the list of their foreign employees to the BGMEA, they added. Three government agencies – the Board of Investment (BoI), currently the Bangladesh Investment Development Authority (BIDA), the NGO Affairs Bureau, and the Bangladesh Export Processing Zones Authority (BEPZA) – issue work permits for the foreigners. However, there is no integrated list of foreigners, working in Bangladesh, for lack of coordination among the government agencies concerned. According to the industry people, foreign employees are mostly holding key posts, like – merchandiser, quality controller, designer and marketing officer in buying houses and liaison offices, along with technician at washing and dyeing units. If the country could employ its own skilled manpower in these foreigners’ positions, a huge amount of foreign currency could be saved while more employment opportunities for local people could be created, they added. Sources said minimum US$ 5.0 billion in total flows out of the country annually due to hiring of foreign nationals in addition to reduction in job opportunities for local people.

Garment exports to US up 10pc

Garment exports to the US increased 10.10 percent year-on-year to $1.08 billion in the first two months of the year, with the shipments expected to grow exponentially if 25 percent duty on Chinese imports comes into effect. If that materialises, many international retailers will look to Bangladesh as an alternative sourcing destination. Apparel was not in the list of the items subjected to US President Donald Trump’s retaliatory 25 percent duty last year, but on Friday he announced 25 percent duty on $200 billion worth Chinese imports that include garment items. “Such announcement will encourage US retailers to consider Bangladesh,” said Faisal Samad, senior vice-president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). But everything depends on price negotiations with the retailers, Samad told The Daily Star by phone. “All things are still at the primary stage. We need to do a lot of home work if we want to grab more market share of the shifted work orders from China.” This is a potential opportunity for Bangladesh, said Mustafizur Rahman, a distinguished fellow of the Centre for Policy Dialogue. Bangladesh would be benefited if the decision to impose 25 percent duty is finally levied, as the US and China are negotiating a trade deal now. However, the Bangladeshi garment sector has been benefiting from the uncertainty that stemmed from the tariff war between the two global economic giants, Rahman said. Despite a shift towards lower-cost manufacturing bases like Vietnam and Bangladesh, China is still the single biggest source of apparel globally, according to Bloomberg. A 2018 survey by the US Fashion Industry Association said that companies still source 11 percent to 30 percent of their apparel from Chinese factories. While this is down from 30 percent to 50 percent the year before, China is still the most important source of clothing, the Bloomberg said. Bangladesh’s garment export to the US market has been showing an upward trend over the last few months because of different reasons like the ongoing trade tariff war between the US and China and enhanced workplace safety. The tariffs described by the president — both those that would be increased to 25 percent on Friday, and those that would be added to consumer goods like clothing and shoes that are not currently being charged with punitive tariffs — will only hurt US families, US workers, US companies and the US economy, said Rick Helfenbein, president and CEO of the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA), in a statement on Sunday. “We urge the president to refrain from imposing these additional tariffs and instead focus on negotiating and concluding the trade deal with China.” Last year, the AAFA estimated that a 25 percent tariff on the industry’s products would result in a family of four paying an additional $500 a year just on these products, according to the statement. “We strongly oppose the president’s announcement that he will continue to penalise American families and add additional obstacles to economic growth by imposing further tariffs on US imports from China,” Helfenbein added.

European markets take cover as Trump trade fears escalate

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Global equity investors ran for cover yesterday as it dawned on markets that US President Donald Trump’s trade war threat against China could be deadly serious. Indices had already slumped on Monday, with Shanghai suffering its heaviest loss in three years, after Trump threatened to hike tariffs on $200bn of Chinese goods this week amid apparent setbacks in trade talks between the economic superpowers. Some quickly dismissed the move as Trump-style brinkmanship, but many market players decided they would rather not take any chances. “Smoke continues to linger across market sentiment following the smoke grenade President Trump launched over the weekend with the threat of adding further tariffs on Chinese imports at the end of the week,” said Lukman Otunuga, a research analyst at FXTM. Trump’s remarks completely wrongfooted markets, coming just days after officials on both sides had sounded positive on the talks. “Say what you want about the US president… but predictability and subtlety were never part of his election pledges,” OANDA senior market analyst Jeffrey Halley said. Stephen Innes at SPI Trading called the turmoil “the latest Tariff Man-triggered trade kerfuffle”, warning that the downside to financial markets of a trade war could be huge. “If you thought the recent tumult was vicious, trust me ‘you ain’t seen nothing yet’ if indeed trade tensions escalate further,” he said. Equities could be facing a correction of 5-10%, Innes warned. Wall Street’s Dow index, which started the day with a loss of 200 points, was off by more than 400 points by the end of the New York morning. European stocks were down by more than 1.5% at the close – with a growth outlook downgrade for the eurozone not helping matters. London’s FTSE 100 was down 1.6 % to 7,260.47 points, Frankfurt’s DAX 30 lost 1.6% to 12,092.74 and Paris’s CAC 40 was down 1.6% at 5,395.75 points at close yesterday. Earlier, Shanghai’s index recovered slightly, having lost a whopping 5.6% the previous session, but Tokyo slumped further. The International Monetary Fund warned that tensions between the economic superpowers were a “threat” to the world economy. On currency markets, the yuan stabilised after being hammered Monday, though most other higher-yielding, riskier units managed to claw back some of their losses. But not the Turkish lira, which slipped back into crisis mode with a heavy fall before rebounding somewhat. The lira “has come back onto investors’ radars… triggered by election shenanigans in the country”, said Fiona Cincotta, senior market analyst at City Index traders. Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan yesterday welcomed an order to re-run the recent Istanbul election, a move the opposition has branded an attack on democracy. His ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) lost the mayorship of Turkey’s biggest city by a narrow margin and refused to accept defeat. Sterling slid nearly half a percent on Monday on rising concerns about the progress of Brexit negotiations and worries Prime Minister Theresa May is facing a mounting challenge to her leadership. May is set to meet Graham Brady, chairman of an influential committee representing members of parliament from her Conservative party, amid calls for her to set a date to step down, the BBC reported. “Currently Theresa May is walking on thin ice as the latest reports indicate a revolt against her could take place. MPs (Members of parliament) are probably not satisfied with cross-party talks so far. Therefore the pound is being dragged down as another dose of uncertainty hits the market,” said Marc-André Fongern of MAF Global Forex. The British currency was generally weak across the board, reserving some of its biggest losses against the dollar and the low yielding Japanese yen. Against the dollar, the pound slipped as much as 0.5% to $1.3040 before recovering slightly to trade 0.4% down at $1.3051. It also weakened a quarter of a percent against the euro at 85.69 pence and 0.7% against the yen at 144.21 yen. A dollar rising at the start of the US trading session also hit the pound. “There is broad dollar strength across the board but it is being felt more acutely through sterling,” said Kamal Sharma, a director of G10 FX strategy at bank of America Merrill Lynch. Britain’s Conservative government and the opposition Labour Party resumed Brexit talks to try to find a way to break the deadlock in parliament over the country’s departure from the European Union. May agreed a withdrawal deal with the EU last year, but it was rejected three times by a deeply divided British parliament. That delayed the exit date, a postponement that has weighed on the pound as investors fret about prolonged political uncertainty. Sterling has traded in a narrow range of $1.28-$1.31 since Britain pushed its scheduled departure from the European Union back from March until October 31. There is still little clarity about when, how, or even if, Brexit will happen. Investors have been broadly impervious to tepid economic data recently and even relatively hawkish comments from the bank of England last week failed to jolt the currency. Overall volatility in the currency markets remained near five-year lows and net positions by hedge funds in sterling have slipped back into negative territory.

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