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Indian textile industry eyeing zero-for-zero trade pact with US, hopeful to increase exports by US $ 6 billion

India’s textile and clothing exports may increase by US $ 6 billion in three years under a planned zero-for-zero trade agreement with the US, levelling the playing field.

After China and Vietnam, India is the US’s third-largest supplier of clothing and textiles.  Between January and November 2024, the United States accounted for 28.5 per cent of India’s total exports of textiles and clothing. India imported just US $ 0.41 billion worth of goods from the US in FY24, compared to US $ 10.8 billion in exports.

Over the past five years, US imports from China have decreased at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 9.4 per cent, whilst imports from India have increased at a CAGR of 9.1 per cent, indicating a window of opportunity for India to improve its standing in the US market.

While US companies have partially shifted away from China, Vietnam and Bangladesh have profited the most from the recent trade tensions, as their share has climbed by 7.8 per cent and 3 per cent, respectively. Bangladesh and Vietnam both benefit from tariff exemptions and favourable trade agreements with the United States for textiles.

According to the Confederation of Indian Textile Industries (CITI), by generating an additional US $ 6 billion in revenue over the next three years, India’s textile and apparel exports to the US may reach US $ 16 billion.

It stated that in order to achieve this, India should look into a zero-for-zero trade agreement with the US for textile and clothing goods, with the required protections for delicate goods. Indian exporters would have an even playing field against Bangladesh and Vietnam under a zero-duty regime.  It stated that a duty-free access mechanism with quota controls could guarantee a balanced trade strategy because India is still reliant on US cotton imports.

Importance of financial inclusion in women’s empowerment

The history of this day begins on March 8, 1908. The day when women workers in New York City started a movement for their rights and advancement.

This movement was to demand workers’ rights, including ending the exploitation and oppression of women workers, demanding equal wages and voting rights, as well as other social rights.

According to Clara Zetkin’s proposal at the Second International Socialist Women’s Conference in Copenhagen in 1910, March 8 was declared International Women’s Day.

Then in 1975, the United Nations officially started celebrating March 8 as International Women’s Day.

It is celebrated as a day of struggle for women’s social, political, and economic rights and equal opportunities worldwide.

This year, International Women’s Day is being celebrated globally with the theme “For ALL women and girls: Rights. Equality. Empowerment” in Bangladesh and “Accelerate Action” to emphasize the urgent need to advance gender equality globally.

Even after almost 117 years of progress in women’s rights, women have not been fully empowered religiously, socially, culturally, politically, and economically.

Even the challenges of properly utilizing the female workforce globally continue to hinder this empowerment. According to recent estimates, about 47% of the world’s women are part of the workforce, compared to about 72% of men.

This gap varies widely in the Asia and Pacific region. In countries like China, the female workforce is 60 percent, while in India, it is only 25 percent.

However, the 2022 BBS survey revealed that the female labor force participation rate in Bangladesh is 42.68%.

Of this, 50.89% in rural areas and 22.59% in urban areas of the female workforce. This statistic is somewhat promising in the global context.

But violence against women, wage and income inequality, legal discrimination, and human rights violations are also frequent. Which is creating a major obstacle to overall economic progress.

Financial inclusion is especially important for women’s empowerment, as it is not only beneficial for women’s financial independence and prosperity but also for the entire society. It also helps improve women’s quality of life and provides them with opportunities to achieve economic independence.

However, according to one statistic, 74% of men worldwide have bank accounts, while only 68% of women do—indicating a 6% gender gap.

This gap is 9% in the economies of developing countries, where 74% of men and only 65% of women have bank accounts. Gender gaps are as high as 18% in South Asia, 13% in the Middle East and North Africa (MENA), and 12% in Sub-Saharan Africa.

This disparity is no less in the case of Bangladesh.

In December 2023, a study by the Asian Development Bank found that 65% of women in Bangladesh are outside the banking system, highlighting significant gender disparities in financial inclusion.

In addition, most of the 30 million people in Bangladesh who are outside the banking system live in villages. About 68% of the total population living in these rural areas are women, who are still deprived of many opportunities.

However, if women are given opportunities, they can also be another driving force of the economy. Bangladesh Bank’s agent banking statistics for April-June 2024 highlight the important role of women in financial inclusion.

It shows that currently 49.67% of the total deposits through agent banking outlets are women, 48.78% are men, and the remaining 1.55% come from the ‘other’ sector.

Another factor that has come to the fore about women being outside the banking system worldwide is that women are victims of patriarchal thinking in many cases. Old ideas about their position and role in society are still prevalent.

Women’s decision-making rights are ignored in many social and family areas. In some cultures, women are still seen as second-class citizens, which marginalizes women’s rights. This is also a major obstacle to their participation in financial activities.

In addition, in some countries, women need male permission to open accounts. This rule was also in force in Saudi Arabia, which was lifted in 2019. Even in the United States, before 1974, women needed a male countersignature to open accounts.

Many women lack awareness about banking products and services. In terms of global financial literacy, 35% of men are financially literate, while 30% of women are, indicating a 5% difference between men and women.

In Bangladesh, 43.46% of adult women are using formal financial services, while 62.86% of men are getting access to formal financial services.

Although banking facilities are of immense importance in women’s empowerment and socio-economic development. In that case, the modern banking system is helping women entrepreneurs, employees, and housewives achieve financial independence.

However, in about 18 countries around the world, men’s permission is still required for women to work, which is to some extent an obstacle to women getting equal opportunities according to their qualifications.

Accordingly, women’s participation in the workplace in Bangladesh has increased significantly in the last few decades.

In 1974, women’s participation in the workplace was only 4%.

According to the latest data, the rate of women’s participation in the workplace in Bangladesh is 36.3%, which is about one-third of the total labor force. On the other hand, the rate of men’s participation is 81.9%.

In the ready-made garment sector, women’s participation has increased significantly. Currently, 59.12 percent of the nearly 4 million workers in this sector are women, which is a unique example of our women’s progress.

Considering the overall situation, there may still be many reasons why women are lagging behind in financial inclusion in Bangladesh.

But there is still ample opportunity for women to move forward in the workplace in various sectors. If this opportunity is properly utilized, women in Bangladesh can become more economically empowered.

For example, according to the Gender Equality Report of 61 banks in January-June 2024, out of the 207,966 workforces in the banking sector, only 34,368, or 16.53 percent, are women.

It goes without saying that when women become financially independent, it not only contributes to personal development but also to the progress of the entire society.

Accessibility of banking facilities for all can play a helpful role in creating female entrepreneurship, increasing savings, investment opportunities, and building self-reliance. There is no doubt that if women can make decisions about their own finances, then women’s empowerment will also become inevitable.

Owners demand separate ministry for garment and textile sector

Garment industry owners have demanded a separate ministry for the country’s garment and textile sector to ensure sustainability in the industry – the highest single source of the country’s export revenue income.

During a discussion held in the capital’s Kurmitola Golf Club today (8 March), they said the garment sector is currently plagued by multifaceted challenges both locally and globally. Long-term policies need to be adapted to overcome these challenges, for which the establishment of a separate ministry is essential.

At the event, an iftar party was organised by the BGMEA’s election-centric alliance, Forum.

They further said for the country’s interest, it is essential to establish clear directives for the garment industry. Failing to do so may jeopardise the survival of the sector.

Mahmud Hasan Khan Babu, a panel leader of Forum, highlighted that the garment sector needs policy support for a certain period of time. “A separate ministry is needed for sustainable policies.”

He added, “There are always domestic and foreign conspiracies against the sector. It faces unrest at various times attributed to labour agitation. An investigation is necessary to ascertain whether there were any political factors behind this.”

In addition, entrepreneurs must be relieved from the harassment posed by customs inspections, he further said.

Pointing out that the government lacks insights regarding business, former BGMEA president Anisur Rahman Sinha said it is their responsibility to convince the government. “The BGMEA as an organisation must play a role in solving any problem [in the sector].”

In addition, the issues encountered in international trade, or export, are not receiving the necessary attention, resulting in the frustration of business owners.

Former BGMEA president Anwar-ul Alam Chowdhury said the BGMEA needs skilled leadership to deal with crisis situations, while former president Rubana Huq highlighted the need for a comprehensive policy for the sector.

“Owners will have to increase bargaining power with foreign buyers for fair prices,” said Rubana.

Rashid Ahmed Hosaini, secretary general of Forum, said the economy of Bangladesh cannot sustain without this sector.

গণঅভ্যুত্থানের পর বন্ধ কারখানা চালু করতে হিমশিম খাচ্ছেন মালিকরা

জুলাইয়ের গণঅভ্যুত্থানের সময় ও পরে যেসব কলকারখানায় ভাঙচুর বা আগুন দেওয়া হয়েছিল নানান কারণে সেগুলো চালু হতে পারছে না। এসব কারণের মধ্যে আছে আর্থিক সংকট, ব্যাংক ঋণ না পাওয়া ও রাজনীতি-সংশ্লিষ্ট মালিকদের কারাগারে থাকা।

বন্ধ কারখানাগুলোয় প্রায় এক লাখ শ্রমিক কাজ করতেন। এর মধ্যে অনেকগুলো এখনো বন্ধ থাকায় কর্মীরা চরম সংকটে।

গত বছরের আগস্টে রাজনৈতিক পটপরিবর্তনের পর ও গত বছরের জুলাই থেকে অক্টোবর পর্যন্ত শ্রমিক অসন্তোষের সময় এসব হামলার ঘটনা ঘটে।

গত সাত মাস ধরে কলকারখানা চালু না থাকায় ব্যাংকগুলো এসব কারখানাকে এলসি খুলতে বা ঋণ পুনঃতফসিলের সুবিধা নিতে দিচ্ছে না।

তাছাড়া এসব কলকারখানার মালিকরা হয় কারাগারে অথবা বিগত আওয়ামী লীগ সরকারের সঙ্গে রাজনৈতিক সম্পর্কের কারণে বিদেশে পালিয়ে আছেন।

ক্ষতিগ্রস্ত কারখানাগুলোর মধ্যে আছে বেক্সিমকো গ্রুপের ১৪টি পোশাক কারখানা, গাজী গ্রুপের পাঁচটি টায়ার কারখানা, বেঙ্গল গ্রুপের তিনটি প্লাস্টিক কারখানা এবং আশুলিয়া, সাভার, জিরাবো ও জিরানীর বেশ কয়েকটি পোশাক কারখানা।

গাজী গ্রুপের নির্বাহী পরিচালক (অর্থ) মুহাম্মদ ফখরুল ইসলাম ডেইলি স্টারকে বলেন, ‘আগামী তিন থেকে চার মাসের মধ্যে কারখানাগুলো পুনর্গঠনের পরিকল্পনা নিয়ে কাজ শুরু করেছি।’

‘শিল্পগোষ্ঠীটি এক হাজার ৮০০ কোটি টাকার ব্যাংক ঋণ পুনঃতফসিল করে কার্যক্রম শুরুর চেষ্টা করছে’ জানিয়ে তিনি আরও বলেন, ‘ব্যবসা শুরু হলে ঋণ পরিশোধ সহজ হবে।’

গত বছরের আগস্টে নারায়ণগঞ্জের রূপগঞ্জে গাজী গ্রুপের পাঁচটি কারখানা পোড়ানো ও লুটপাটের ঘটনায় দুই হাজার কোটি টাকার বেশি ক্ষতি হয়েছে।

রাজনৈতিক সংশ্লিষ্টতার কারণে সাবেক বস্ত্র ও পাটমন্ত্রী গোলাম দস্তগীরের গাজী টায়ার, গাজী ট্যাংক, গাজী পাইপ, গাজী ডোরসসহ বেশ কয়েকটি গুদাম ধ্বংস করা হয়।

বেক্সিমকো গ্রুপের ক্ষেত্রে সরকার আগামী ৯ মার্চ থেকে ৩১ হাজার ৬৬৯ শ্রমিক ও ১ হাজার ৫৬৫ কর্মকর্তাকে মোট ৫২৫ কোটি ৪৬ লাখ টাকা চূড়ান্ত বেতন ও সেবা সুবিধা দেবে।

আগস্টের শুরুতে আওয়ামী লীগ সরকারের পতনের পর বেক্সিমকো গ্রুপ সংকটে তলিয়ে যায়।

বেক্সিমকোর ভাইস চেয়ারম্যান সালমান এফ রহমান পদচ্যুত প্রধানমন্ত্রী শেখ হাসিনার প্রভাবশালী উপদেষ্টা ছিলেন। তার বিরুদ্ধে হত্যা, দুর্নীতি ও ব্যক্তিগত ব্যবসায়িক লাভের জন্য রাজনৈতিক প্রভাব ব্যবহারের অভিযোগ আনা হয়েছে।

আওয়ামী লীগ সরকারের পতনের পর বেক্সিমকো গ্রুপের অন্তত ৪০ হাজার কোটি টাকা খেলাপি ঋণসহ সালমান এফ রহমান ও তার ব্যবসা প্রতিষ্ঠানের আর্থিক অনিয়ম প্রকাশ্যে আসে।

নগদ টাকার সংকটে থাকা শিল্পগোষ্ঠীটির শীর্ষ কর্মকর্তারা ডেইলি স্টারকে জানান, সীমিত আকারে ব্যবসা শুরু করতে এলসি খোলার অনুমতি দেওয়ার জন্য তারা বারবার সরকারের কাছে অনুরোধ করেছেন।

বেক্সিমকো গ্রুপের বস্ত্র ও পোশাক বিভাগের হেড অব হিউম্যান রিসোর্সেস (এইচআর) অ্যান্ড কমপ্লায়েন্স খালিদ শাহরিয়ার ডেইলি স্টারকে বলেন, ‘শ্রমিক ও তাদের পরিবারকে বাঁচাতে কারখানাগুলোর মালিক যেই হোক না কেন, তা পরিচালনা করা জরুরি।’

তিনি আরও বলেন, ‘বারবার অনুরোধের পরও সরকার ব্যবসা শুরুর অনুমতি দেয়নি।’

বেঙ্গল গ্রুপের ভাইস প্রেসিডেন্ট ও ব্যবসায়ীদের শীর্ষ সংগঠন ফেডারেশন অব বাংলাদেশ চেম্বার অব কমার্স অ্যান্ড ইন্ডাস্ট্রির (এফবিসিসিআই) সাবেক সভাপতি জসিম উদ্দিন ডেইলি স্টারকে বলেন, ‘কেন্দ্রীয় গুদামসহ প্লাস্টিক ব্যাগ, সিমেন্ট ব্যাগ, প্যাকেজিং সামগ্রী তৈরির তিনটি কারখানা পুড়ে গেছে।’

জিরানীর এসব কারখানায় দুই হাজারের বেশি শ্রমিক কাজ করেন। প্রতি মাসে আয় হতো ৮০ কোটি টাকা।

জসিম উদ্দিনের মতে, কারখানা পুনর্নির্মাণ ও নতুন যন্ত্রপাতি কেনার পরিকল্পনা থাকায় ব্যাংক ঋণের ৪০০ কোটি টাকা পুনঃতফসিল করা দরকার।

রপ্তানিমুখী পোশাক কারখানা বিগ বসের ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালক সৈয়দ রেজাউল হোসেন কাজী ডেইলি স্টারকে বলেন, ‘আগস্ট-পরবর্তী ক্ষয়ক্ষতিতে আমাদের কারখানায় ৬০ কোটি টাকা লোকসান হয়েছে।’

বিমার মাধ্যমে লোকসান পুষিয়ে নেওয়ায় কারখানাটি কয়েক দিনের মধ্যে উৎপাদন শুরু করে।

বর্তমানে বিগ বস প্রতিষ্ঠানটিতে ১২ হাজার শ্রমিক কাজ করছে জানিয়ে তিনি আরও বলেন, ‘কারখানা চালু হওয়ায় ঋণ পরিশোধ নিয়ে বড় সমস্যায় পড়তে হয়নি।’

তবে ক্ষতিগ্রস্ত অনেক পোশাক কারখানা তা করতে পারেনি।

বাংলাদেশ পোশাক প্রস্তুতকারক ও রপ্তানিকারক সমিতির (বিজিএমইএ) সাবেক পরিচালক মহিউদ্দিন রুবেল ডেইলি স্টারকে বলেন, ‘মারাত্মক ক্ষতিগ্রস্ত অন্তত চার পোশাক কারখানার উৎপাদন শুরু হয়নি।’

এসব কারখানার নাম বলতে অস্বীকৃতি জানিয়ে তিনি আরও বলেন, ‘রাজনৈতিক কারণে কারখানাগুলো খোলার অনুমতি দেওয়া হয়নি।’

শ্রম ও কর্মসংস্থান মন্ত্রণালয়ের সচিব এএইচএম শফিকুজ্জামান ডেইলি স্টারকে জানান, ‘বেক্সিমকো ও টিএনজেডের বার্ডস, ডির্ড, ইয়েলোসহ পাঁচ প্রতিষ্ঠানকে সরকার আর্থিক সহায়তা হিসেবে ১২৭ কোটি টাকা দিয়েছে।

তবে ছয় মাসের মেয়াদ শেষ হওয়ায় সরকার এখন এসব প্রতিষ্ঠানকে ঋণ পরিশোধে চাপ দিচ্ছে বলেও জানান তিনি।

তার ভাষ্য, ‘যদি তারা সময়মতো ঋণ পরিশোধে ব্যর্থ হয় তবে সরকার জামানত হিসেবে সম্পত্তি বিক্রির চেষ্টা করবে। কয়েকটি কারখানা চালু থাকায় তারা ঋণ পরিশোধে সক্ষম।’

বিজিএমইএর প্রশাসক মো. আনোয়ার হোসেন ডেইলি স্টারকে জানান, যেগুলোর মালিকরা বিদেশে বা বকেয়া ঋণে জর্জরিত তাদের কারখানাগুলো ছাড়া ক্ষতিগ্রস্ত প্রায় সব পোশাক কারখানা চালু হয়েছে।

এ ছাড়াও, শ্রমিক অসন্তোষ ও ভাঙচুরের কারণে উৎপাদন বন্ধ থাকায় আর্থিক ক্ষতির কারণে গত বছরের জুলাই থেকে কয়েকটি কারখানা বন্ধ আছে।

শ্রম ও কর্মসংস্থান মন্ত্রণালয়ের উপদেষ্টা ব্রিগেডিয়ার জেনারেল (অব.) এম সাখাওয়াত হোসেন ডেইলি স্টারকে বলেন, ‘মন্ত্রণালয় অনেক কারখানায় শ্রম ইস্যুতে কাজ করেছে। কয়েকটি কারখানায় বেতন পরিশোধের জন্য আর্থিক সহায়তা দেওয়া হয়েছে।’

‘তবে ক্ষতিগ্রস্ত সব কারখানার ব্যাংক ঋণ বকেয়া থাকায় তাদের আর্থিক সহায়তা দেওয়া সম্ভব হচ্ছে না। এরপরও কোনো কারখানা মন্ত্রণালয়ের কাছে আসলে আমরা সহযোগিতা করার চেষ্টা করব।’

শ্রমিকদের বেতন-ভাতা ও সুযোগ-সুবিধার জন্য সরকারের আর্থিক সহায়তা প্রসঙ্গে তিনি বলেন, ‘মানবিক কারণে এটি করা হয়েছে। কারণ এসব প্রতিষ্ঠানের শেয়ার বিক্রি করা জটিল ও সময়সাপেক্ষ।’

বেক্সিমকো গ্রুপের খেলাপি ঋণ এত বেশি যে সরকার তাদের কার্যক্রম আবার চালু করতে বড় ধরনের আর্থিক হস্তক্ষেপের ঝুঁকি নিতে পারে বলে মনে করেন তিনি।

Exports rise 2.77% in February

Bangladesh’s export performance in February saw a slide from January, but there was a steady growth of 2.77% compared to February of the previous year.

According to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), the export earnings in February 2025 reached $3.97 billion, reflecting a 2.77% growth compared to the same month last year.

Meanwhile, total exports for the July-February period of FY25 stood at $32.94 billion, marking a 10.53% increase from $29.81 billion recorded during the same period in the previous fiscal year.

As in previous months, the apparel sector remained the dominant contributor, with exports amounting to $3.24 billion, posting a modest 1.66% growth compared to February 2024.

Several non-traditional sectors registered notable growth in February 2025, including leather and leather goods 34.37%, frozen and live fish 26.66%, plastic products 7.97%, and agricultural products 7.03%.

But some sectors experienced a decline in export earnings during the same period.

These include jute and jute goods at negative 11.39%, light engineering products negative 1.56%, and home textiles at negative 0.23%

Despite challenges in certain sectors, the overall positive growth trajectory underscores Bangladesh’s resilience and competitiveness in the global export market, said Md Anwar Hossain, vice-chairman of Export Promotion Bureau (EPB.)

The export target for FY25 has been set at $50 billion, representing a projected growth of 12.44% over the previous fiscal year.

This ambitious goal reflects the nation’s commitment to expanding its global trade footprint and strengthening its position in the international marketplace as stated by the EPB in an official remark on exports.

Breakdown

RMG items, as usual, overwhelmingly dominated the export earnings by recording a 10.64% growth in the July-February period.

The sector fetched $26.79 billion against $24.21 billion during the corresponding period.

Knitwear sub-sector bagged $$14.34 billion in an 11.01% growth while woven garments saw a 10.22% increase to $12.45 billion in the last July-February period.

In February 2025, RMG exports stood at $3.24 billion, marking a growth of 1.66% from the earnings in January 2024.

However, woven exports saw a slight dip in February 2025, decreasing by 0.44% compared to February 2024, according to EPB data.

Meanwhile, home textiles recorded a 5.23% growth to fetch $577.99 million during the first eight months of the current fiscal, according to the EPB data.

Exports of jute and jute goods during the period under review amounted to $547.88 million, registering a fall of 8.71%.

Earnings from agricultural items like vegetables, fruits and dry foods registered a growth of 10.25% to $742.47 million during the last eight months.

Export earnings from engineering products increased by 7.48% to $338.79 million.

Frozen and live fish exports increased by 14.45% to $316.18 million.

The country received $757.50 million from the export of leather and leather goods in July-February, registering a growth of 8.48%.

Pharmaceuticals fetched $145.46 million, registering a 7.11% export growth.

Exports of footwear other than leather items also increased, by 32.85% to $362.83 million.

The exports of plastic products posted a 22.25% growth, reaching $203.65 million.

Bangladesh in the last fiscal year bagged $44.46 billion in earnings from merchandise exports, again riding on readymade garments as potential of other sectors stayed stymied.

Ring Shine Textiles’ losses widen in Q2

Ring Shine Textiles reported a decline in its financial performance for the October–December quarter of 2024, as the company’s losses deepened year-on-year.

The company’s earnings per share (EPS) stood at Tk 0.71 in the negative for October–December 2024, down from Tk 0.55 in the negative in the corresponding quarter of 2023.

For the six months from July to December 2024, its EPS fell further to Tk 1.50 in the negative, compared to Tk 1.41 in the negative in the same period of 2023, according to a filing on the Dhaka Stock Exchange website.

The yarn and fabric manufacturer’s net operating cash flow per share also worsened, standing at Tk 0.90 in the negative for July–December 2024, compared to Tk 0.36 in the negative in the same period of the previous year, indicating higher cash outflows in operations.

Meanwhile, the company’s net asset value per share dropped to Tk 9.50 in the negative as of December 31, 2024, from Tk 8.03 in the negative on June 30, 2024.

Ring Shine, a struggling textile manufacturer, has been facing financial challenges for years. The company, once a major player in the textile industry, has seen its operations weaken amid mounting losses and liquidity concerns.

BKMEA wants Tk7,000cr outstanding cash assistance from govt before Eid

The Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) has requested the Finance Division to release Tk7,000 crore in outstanding cash assistance for exports before Eid-ul-Fitr.

BKMEA President Mohammad Hatem made the request in a letter to Finance Secretary Md Khairuzzaman Mozumder today (4 March).

According to the letter, claims for approximately Tk7,000 crore in export subsidies or cash assistance have been submitted to the Bangladesh Bank for the 2024-25 financial year up until March 2025.

Hatem urged the Finance Division to take special measures to release the funds within the shortest possible time, preferably by the 15th of Ramadan, noting that delays could cause serious disruptions in the export sector.

In the letter, he stated that the country’s changed political situation, along with instability in the ready-made garment (RMG) industry, has created significant challenges for industrial establishments.

He noted that prolonged labour unrest in various industrial zones had severely disrupted production, leading to factory closures and an abnormal rise in production costs.

“But in order to maintain buyers’ confidence in the country’s export industry, RMG entrepreneurs have been forced to accept work orders at prices lower than actual production costs in many cases. Despite an increase in orders, many factories are facing a cash shortage,” the letter said.

The letter also highlighted the increasing pressure of salary and Eid bonus payments, warning that failure to meet these obligations could lead to renewed labour unrest.

Mohammad Hatem stressed that government support is crucial to maintaining stability and continuity in production.

Copies of the letter have been sent to the finance adviser, commerce adviser, labour and employment adviser, Bangladesh Bank governor, and the president of the Bangladesh Employers’ Federation.

Notably, the commerce ministry, in a recent report, flagged about 500 RMG factories as at risk of unrest over the payment of wages and festival allowances ahead of Eid-ul-Fitr.

The assessment report also identified 36 factories as particularly vulnerable to worker unrest and potentially in need of financial support to ensure timely payment of wages and festival allowances before the holidays.

Sweater factory workers stage demo in Savar demanding increased wages, other benefits

Production workers of a sweater factory staged a demonstration by blocking the Dhaka-Aricha Highway in Savar today (3 March) demanding an increase in wages, provision of leave benefits and allowance of festival bonuses.

Workers of Dynamic Sweater Industries Limited began their demonstration by blocking the highway at Savar’s Ulail Bazar area around 11am, causing tailback on both sides of the road, reports our correspondent.

After waging their protest for half an hour, the workers withdrew their blockade through the army’s intervention around 11:30am.

Although the agitated workers left the road, they threw brick chips at the nearby Anlima Textile Limited in a bid to force workers out of the factory and to join them on the streets. Law enforcers then dispersed them from the spot.

“The workers of Anlima factory detained two women during the violence and handed them over to us. We have rescued the two women,” said Additional Superintendent of Police of Dhaka District Police (Savar Circle) Md Shahinur Kabir.

When asked about the matter, the agitated workers said most of them work in production and recently the owners have started to pay them wages lower than they used to get previously.

The workers added that their factory does not pay them any leave benefits or festival bonuses.

As a result, they had been demonstrating for the past couple of days demanding these benefits. The owners were about to sit with them this morning, and instead of doing this, they closed down the factory, said the workers.

That is why the workers had come to the streets to realise their demands, workers further said.

Aklima, a linking operator of the factory, told TBS, “At present we get Tk21 per piece of our work instead of Tk26 that we used to get earlier. Although the cost of living increases day by day, the rate of our work just decreases. We even do not get any Eid bonus or leave allowance.”

“We wanted to talk to the owners about this, but instead of hearing us, they have closed down the factory for two days from today. That is why we have taken to the streets to raise our demands,” Aklima said.

Additional Superintendent of Police of Dhaka District Police (Savar Circle) Md Shahinur Kabir, who was present at the spot, said, “We have talked to the workers but their demands did not seem logical. However, we have talked to the factory owners and they have decided to sit with the workers. Based on this assurance, the agitating workers left the streets.”

The police officials further said the owners of Dynamic Sweater Industries Limited will sit with the workers at 2pm tomorrow (4 March).

Protest in Gazipur as 2,203 Keya Group workers laid off ahead of shutdown

A protest erupted in Gazipur’s Konabari area this morning (3 March) as 2,203 workers from two Keya Group factories were laid off ahead of a planned shutdown scheduled for 1 May. 

The workers demonstrated in front of the factory at 8:20am and later gathered at the main gate of Koya Cosmetics. 

Police from Gazipur Industrial Police and Konabari police station arrived at the scene to control the situation.

Officer-in-Charge (OC) of Konabari police station, GMPI, Nazrul Islam, said, “We are working at the scene and trying to control the situation by explaining things to the workers.”

On 2 January, the management of the Keya Group issued a notice announcing the permanent closure of four factories, including the Keya Group’s Knit Composite Division and MP Sweaters Limited, from 1 May. 

The closure was attributed to factors such as market instability, discrepancies with banks, a shortage of raw materials, and insufficient production capacity. 

The notice also stated that workers’ dues would be settled in accordance with labour law by May.

However, a notice signed by the chairman of the factories informed the workers today that 2,203 employees would be laid off two months ahead of the announced shutdown date. 

The notice reads, “Keya Cosmetics Limited (Knit Composite Division), MP Sweaters Limited, Zarun, Konabari, Gazipur, hereby informs all workers and employees that, in light of unresolved banking issues, they will be permanently released from service starting 1 March 2025, instead of the previously announced closure date of 1 May, 2025.”

The notice further mentioned that the laid-off workers’ dues would be paid within the next 30 working days as per labour law. It also stated that if the issues were resolved, the laid-off workers would be given priority for reemployment. However, disabled and pregnant female workers were exempt from this notice.

 When the workers arrived to start their shifts this morning, they found the layoff notice. 

The workers said that although the closure notice had been issued earlier, the sudden layoff of such a large number of employees came as a surprise.

They claimed that the management had not yet paid the dues of the laid-off workers, and the protest was in response to this failure to settle the payments.

Sabina Yasmin, the HR manager of Keya Group, said, “All laid-off workers will receive their dues according to labor law. Although the law requires payment within 30 working days, we plan to pay them by 24 March.”

She also explained, “We have been facing many problems for a long time due to banking issues. The bank is not cooperating with us, and the factory owner is currently in jail. The owner’s daughter has assured us that all dues will be settled on time.”

The official further added, “While the workers have been working until now, the current demand is that if the factory remains operational, everyone will work; if not, no one will. How can management address this? Right now, the workers want their wages, but how is that possible?”
 

500 RMG factories at risk of unrest over wages, bonuses before Eid-ul-Fitr

As many as 500 readymade garment (RMG) factories have been identified as at risk of facing unrest over the payment of wages and festival allowances ahead of Eid-ul-Fitr, according to commerce ministry sources.

An intelligence report based on factory financial assessments and submitted to the commerce ministry has pinpointed 500 factories facing potential difficulties, ministry officials have told TBS.

The report, seen by The Business Standard, also noted that about 200 factories are under close monitoring of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), industrial police and other intelligence agencies.

The report noted that 36 factories have been identified as highly vulnerable to worker unrest and may require financial support to pay their employees’ wages and festival allowances on time before the holidays.

According to BGMEA officials, some factories are facing financial difficulties due to several reasons, including last year’s worker unrest, energy crisis and order shortages.

The association has already formed 15 teams to monitor the industrial law and order situation in the lead-up to Eid-ul-Fitr, which will be celebrated at the end of March.

At the same time, it plans to request factory owners to pay workers’ Eid bonuses before the holidays.

The officials also mentioned that this year they will request factory owners to pay workers half of their March salary before the Eid vacation. However, this will depend on each factory’s financial capacity, they say.

The BGMEA officials say the request is likely to be made during a tripartite committee meeting involving the government, labour leaders and association leaders during Ramadan.

As per labour law, factory owners must pay workers’ wages within seven working days of the following month.

According to the BGMEA, a total of 28 factories have failed to pay their workers’ January salaries, and two factories have not cleared December salaries as of Thursday evening.

Another intelligence report

Another state-run intelligence report seen by TBS mentions that about 170 factories employing over 186,000 people are at high risk regarding paying workers’ Eid bonuses and monthly wages before the holidays.

Approximately 68,000 workers are employed at 41 of these factories in the Gazipur industrial zone.

The highest number of 57 factories are located in the Savar-Ashulia industrial zone, where over 60,000 people are employed.

The second highest number of 42 factories are located in the Dhaka zone, employing over 26,000 people.

The Chittagong zone has 17 factories with over 9,000 workers.

Seven factories in Narayanganj, four in Mymensingh and two factories in Tangail’s Ghatail employ over 8,500, 3,300 and 8,000 people respectively.

The report mentions that of the 170 factories, 128 have BGMEA membership while 16 are Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) members and only four textile mills are associated with the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA).

Nine factories are under the Bangladesh Export Zone Authority (Beza) and 13 are from other industries.

What have BGMEA, Industrial Police done? 

According to BGMEA officials, as in previous years, the Ministry of Home Affairs will hold a law and order meeting at the Secretariat ahead of Eid-ul-Fitr. The meeting, to be chaired by the home affairs adviser, will focus on ensuring the timely payment of wages and bonuses to workers.

Additionally, the Ministry of Labour will convene a tripartite meeting to issue directives for the disbursement of wages and bonuses before the Eid holidays.

To facilitate the process, a 30-member BGMEA team, divided into 15 groups, has identified several factories facing challenges and is working to resolve issues through discussions with workers.

To ease traffic congestion on highways, the BGMEA will request all its member factories to grant leave in phases. Factory owners will coordinate holiday schedules with their shipment plans and submit advance reports accordingly.

Furthermore, various state intelligence agencies are keeping certain self-proclaimed labour leaders under surveillance. These individuals have previously attempted to incite labour unrest by turning minor issues into major concerns.

The BGMEA has decided to set up a central control room on the ground floor of its headquarters.

Greater Dhaka has been divided into 15 zones, each with a committee comprising assistant directors, factory owners and BGMEA officials. These committees will work to prevent and resolve labour unrest in their respective areas.

Solutions are being devised based on the nature of the problems. To address these concerns, 15 BGMEA monitoring teams are working in the field round the clock.

As in previous years, the BGMEA is engaging with labourleaders to prevent any untoward incidents, labour unrest or disruption in the export-oriented garment industry. The meeting will be attended by the relevant adviser, secretary and representatives of law enforcement agencies.

Regional crisis committee

The government has formed a regional crisis committee comprising local public representatives, the Ministry of Labour, BGMEA, BKMEA, law enforcement agencies and labourleaders.

Additionally, to ensure a smooth disbursement of wages and allowances and facilitate the safe travel of workers during the Eid season, the BGMEA has urged the relevant district administrations and law enforcement agencies to take necessary measures.

According to a recent audit report by Hoda Vasi Chowdhury & Co, the BGMEA has 1,806 active member factories.

Of the active members, 1,482 are from the Dhaka zone and 324 are from the Chattogram zone.

Financial support

Talking with TBS, BKMEA President Mohammad Hatem emphasised that banks must cooperate with factory owners to help them pay workers. 

Citing an example, he said, “Recently, we communicated with the authorities to facilitate the release of Mahmud Denim’s pending cash incentive of Tk8.30 crore to pay its workers. Unfortunately, one bank adjusted the amount against its pending payments.”

The country’s exporters have pending cash incentive claims of over Tk5,000 crore. The Ministry of Finance should take the initiative to release these funds as it would help  the workers receive their wages and Eid benefits before the holidays.

The BKMEA president also mentioned that the association would write to the ministry, requesting the release of the funds by the second week of Ramadan.

Hatem added, “As we know, the interim government is pro-worker, and we hope it will take immediate steps to address these issues.”

RMG BANGLADESH NEWS