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After a resilient 2024, RMG manufacturers hope for a better 2025

Bangladesh’s readymade garment (RMG) sector hopes for a better 2025 after experiencing challenges and hurdles throughout 2024, redefining its resilience against all odds. 

Industry insiders were optimistic that 2025 would improve as the global retail market was also improving.

Moreover, the country’s manufacturers took several measures, such as branding, product diversification and workplace safety improvement, which may expedite exports.

A better 2025

RMG manufacturers said that Western buyers began returning to Bangladesh as inflationary pressures eased in their respective countries.

Moreover, exports in 2024 also indicated a brighter 2025 as the trends remain positive despite fierce nationwide movement and political changeover.

Talking to Dhaka Tribune, Faruque Hassan, former president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), said entrepreneurs are now looking for new markets and manufacturing value-added products.

“If we can reduce corruption and resolve customs and NBR-related issues, 2025 will be a good year for us. Inflation has started decreasing gradually in our major destinations, mainly in Europe and America,” he said, adding that the central banks of many countries are also reducing interest rates.

Consequently, there is a possibility of increasing sales in the retail market, which impacts work orders.

“Buyers are always confident in us due to circularity, green factories, workplace safety, etc. If the global economy turns around, we will benefit from it,” he also said.

Echoing similar sentiments, Mohiuddin Rubel, former director of the BGMEA, believed the Bangladesh RMG industry had potential for qualitative changes as it diversified product lines and explored new markets.

Significant investments in activewear and non-cotton products are emerging within the industry. Nevertheless, the ongoing crisis in sustainable energy has hindered new investments, causing previous investors to struggle, he added.

Rubel was optimistic that 2025 would mark a significant comeback for the global economy and the apparel business. 

He hoped the nation would overcome the ongoing crises, particularly the challenges within the banking and financial sectors.

Challenges that need to be addressed

According to industry insiders, 2025 also holds several challenges for the country’s apparel sector along with enormous opportunities.

Faruque Hassan said Bangladesh’s RMG sector must solve domestic issues in order to seize the above mentioned opportunities.

“We have to ensure an uninterrupted supply of energy and fuel and increase worker efficiency. Moreover, the highest priority should be given to improving the law-and-order situation, ensuring that workers’ unrest does not occur, and ensuring political stability,” he added.

Mohiuddin Rubel said achieving sustainable improvements in industrial relations and establishing stable political and economic reforms are essential for restoring confidence as they dedicate themselves to the immediate future.

“I truly believe these improvements will take shape in 2025,” he added.

RMG resilience against all odds in 2024

The country’s apparel sector experienced a series of challenges and hurdles throughout 2024, redefining its resilience against all odds. 

Industry insiders reported that several domestic issues have negatively impacted the sector this year, including a prolonged energy and fuel crisis, turmoil in the banking sector and recurring labor unrest in the major industrial hubs.

On August 5, a mass uprising led to the overthrow of the Sheikh Hasina government, forcing her to find refuge in India.

Additionally, the change in the political landscape also caused some negative impacts on the sector, including a disturbed law and order situation and ongoing labor unrest.

Faruque Hassan mentioned that while 2024 posed challenges, it also presented opportunities for business recovery as work orders increased alongside improved political stability. He highlighted the fact that international retailers and brands are returning to place work orders due to a rise in sales in the US and EU, indicating a rebound in retail sales.

The quota reform movement began in June and escalated into a mass uprising demanding the removal of then-prime minister Sheikh Hasina.

Curfews and internet outages enforced by the then-government exacerbated the situation in July and August. As a result, apparel manufacturers experienced deadline delays and many were forced to provide discounts to make up for delayed delivery.

Following the fall, on August 5, of the Sheikh Hasina-led government, an interim government led by Nobel Laureate Professor Muhammad Yunus took charge on August 8.

Labour unrest and onwards

Production and shipments were further affected by significant labor unrest that erupted in major industrial hubs on the outskirts of Dhaka in August, following the political change. This unrest continued until October.

The workers’ unrest disrupted the struggling local apparel manufacturing industry as workers abandoned production lines, blocked roads, and chanted demands for higher wages.

For several months, factories in major industrial hubs like Gazipur, Savar, Ashulia, Zirani and Zirabo were closed due to protests and vandalism.

Meanwhile, several manufacturers and union leaders labeled most of the protests illogical, fueled by vested interest groups, and a conspiracy against the sector due to its fast-changing nature.

However, workers, union leaders, and factory owners reached a historic consensus in September on a settlement to their 18-point demand.

In December, the government decided to increase the yearly wage increment of the RMG workers to 9% from the previous 5%.

Export earnings showed hope

Meanwhile, the country’s RMG sector has maintained a moderate export increase throughout 2024 despite obstacles, including worker unrest, an energy crisis, high lending rates, growing production costs, and—most importantly—a change in the political landscape. 

Bangladesh earned $34.71 billion between January and November 2024, a 6.23% increase from the $32.64 billion earned during the same period in 2023, according to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data compiled by former BGMEA director Mohiuddin Rubel.

He said this reflects satisfactory year-over-year growth. However, considering the industry’s capacity, it is not significant enough.

“Thus, 2024 has proven to be a year rife with crises and challenges. However, I remain hopeful that 2025 will usher in a revival in global garment trade and improve our export performance,” he added.

No pause in sustainability

Bangladesh has successfully sustained its commitment to industrial sustainability despite the hurdles faced throughout 2024.

Some 24 garment factories earned USGBC LEED certification in 2023. 

In 2024, 26 new factories earned the certification. Of these, 16 received platinum certification, and 10 achieved gold certification.

Bangladesh’s RMG industry now has 232 green factories, showcasing its dedication to sustainable growth. 

Industry insiders said investment in the sector would increase if it could address the aforementioned challenges, and many jobs can be created in 2025. 

They also suggested investing more in man-made fiber to get better prices and increase exports, as demand for specialized garments has been increasing worldwide.

ঝড় ঠেকাতে পারবে পোশাক শিল্প? লক্ষণ কী?

দেশের পোশাক শিল্পের জন্য ২০২৪ সাল ছিল সংকটময়। আবার বাজার ফিরতে শুরু করায় নতুন করে আশার আলো দেখার বছরও।

বিদায়ী বছরটি আবারও বিশ্ববাজারে বাংলাদেশের পোশাকের শক্তিশালী অবস্থান প্রমাণ করেছে।

জ্বালানি ও ডলার সংকট, সরবরাহ ব্যবস্থায় বাধা, শ্রমিকদের বেতন বাড়ানোর দাবি, রাজনৈতিক অনিশ্চয়তা এবং ঢিলেঢালা আইনশৃঙ্খলা পরিস্থিতি—এসবই বিদায়ী বছরে পোশাক প্রস্তুতকারকদের জন্য অভ্যন্তরীণ সংকট তৈরি করেছিল।

মূল্যস্ফীতির চাপ কমে আসায় এবং মহামারি ও ইউক্রেন-গাজা যুদ্ধের ধাক্কা কাটিয়ে বাজার ফেরার প্রেক্ষাপটে দেশব্যাপী শ্রমিক আন্দোলন ও রাজনৈতিক পটপরিবর্তনের পর পশ্চিমের ক্রেতারা বাংলাদেশে ফিরতে শুরু করেছেন।

ইউরোপীয় ইউনিয়ন ও যুক্তরাষ্ট্রের মতো বড় বাজারে বাংলাদেশের পোশাক রপ্তানি ঘুরে দাঁড়িয়েছে। জুলাই থেকে নভেম্বরে দেশটির পোশাক রপ্তানি আগের বছরের একই সময়ের তুলনায় ১৬ দশমিক ২৫ শতাংশ বেড়ে এক হাজার ৬১১ কোটি ডলার হয়।

ওয়ালমার্ট-জর্জ, পুমা, এসপ্রিট ও জি-স্টারে পোশাক রপ্তানি করা ডিবিএল গ্রুপের ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালক এমএ জব্বার দ্য ডেইলি স্টারকে বলেন, ‘কয়েক মাস আগের তুলনায় এখন ভবিষ্যৎ উজ্জ্বল। পোশাক রপ্তানির ক্ষেত্রে খুবই ইতিবাচক পরিস্থিতি দেখতে পাচ্ছি।’

দেশের রপ্তানি আয়ের বেশিভাগ আসে পোশাক শিল্প থেকে। এই শিল্পে শ্রমিকদের বেতন বৃদ্ধির আন্দোলন ও বর্ধিত মজুরি নিয়ে বছরটি শুরু হয়।

করোনা মহামারির পর বিশ্ববাজারে মূল্যস্ফীতি বেড়ে যায়। এরপর আসে রাশিয়া-ইউক্রেন যুদ্ধ। মধ্যপ্রাচ্যে লোহিত সাগর সংকট ও সংঘাত পরিস্থিতিকে আরও জটিল করে তোলে।

এরপর জুনে কোটা সংস্কার আন্দোলন শুরু হলে পোশাক রপ্তানি ক্ষতিগ্রস্ত হয়।

আন্দোলন দমাতে সরকার জুলাই ও আগস্টে ইন্টারনেট বন্ধ ও কারফিউ জারি করলে সার্বিক পরিস্থিতি আরও সংকটময় হয়ে উঠে।

এমন অবস্থায় পোশাক রপ্তানির ক্ষেত্রে বেঁধে দেওয়া সময় মানতে ব্যর্থ হয় অনেক প্রতিষ্ঠান। অনেককেই দেরিতে চালান পাঠানোর ক্ষতিপূরণ হিসেবে পণ্যের দামে ছাড় দিতে হয়।

সরকার পতনের পর ঢাকার আশেপাশে প্রধান শিল্পাঞ্চলগুলোয় ব্যাপক শ্রমিক অসন্তোষ দেখা দেয়। তা চলে অক্টোবর পর্যন্ত। দেশব্যাপী ছাত্র আন্দোলনের সময়ও উৎপাদন ও চালান ক্ষতিগ্রস্ত হয়।

বেতন বাড়ানো ও বকেয়া বেতনের দাবিতে শ্রমিকরা রাস্তা অবরোধ করেন। ইতোমধ্যে ধুঁকতে থাকা কারখানাগুলোয় পোশাক তৈরি ব্যাহত হয়।

অস্থিরতা, ভাঙচুর ও অগ্নিকাণ্ডের কারণে গাজীপুর, সাভার, আশুলিয়া, জিরানি ও জিরাবোর মতো বড় শিল্পাঞ্চলে বেশ কয়েকটি কারখানা কয়েক মাস বন্ধও ছিল।

গত সেপ্টেম্বরে পোশাক কারখানার মালিক, শ্রমিক নেতা ও শ্রমিকরা মিলে আন্দোলনকারীদের ১৮ দফা দাবি নিয়ে আলোচনা করেন।

ন্যূনতম মজুরি বোর্ড পোশাক শ্রমিকদের বার্ষিক ইনক্রিমেন্ট আগের পাঁচ শতাংশ থেকে বাড়িয়ে নয় শতাংশ করেছে।

চলতি ডিসেম্বরে নতুন ইনক্রিমেন্ট কার্যকর হয়। শ্রম আইন সংশোধন ছাড়া অন্যান্য দাবিও পূরণ করা হয়েছে। আগামী মার্চের মধ্যে আইনটি সংশোধনের প্রতিশ্রুতি দিয়েছে সরকার।

অনেকে ভেবেছিলেন অস্থিরতার পর উত্পাদন আবার শুরু হবে। তবে কয়েকটি প্রতিষ্ঠানের পরিস্থিতি আরও খারাপ হয়। যেমন, বেক্সিমকো গ্রুপের ১৬ কারখানা থেকে ৪০ হাজারের বেশি কর্মী ছাঁটাই হন।

বিদায়ী বছরে রপ্তানি তথ্য সংশোধন করা হয়। আগে ভুল গণনার কারণে রপ্তানি আয় অতিরঞ্জিত ছিল।

চূড়ান্ত হিসাব অনুসারে, ২০২৩-২০২৪ অর্থবছরে পোশাক খাতের আয় হয়েছে ৩৬ বিলিয়ন ডলার। রপ্তানি উন্নয়ন ব্যুরো (ইপিবি) হিসাব করেছিল ৪৭ বিলিয়ন ডলার।

বাংলাদেশ পোশাক প্রস্তুতকারক ও রপ্তানিকারক সমিতির (বিজিএমইএ) সাবেক সভাপতি ফারুক হাসান ডেইলি স্টারকে বলেন, ‘বিদায়ী বছরটি সংকটময় ছিল। তবে রাজনৈতিক স্থিতিশীলতার সঙ্গে কার্যাদেশ ফিরে আসায় ব্যবসা পুনরুদ্ধারের বছরও এটি।’

তিনি আরও বলেন, ‘যুক্তরাষ্ট্র ও ইইউতে খুচরা বিক্রি বেড়ে যাওয়ায় আন্তর্জাতিক প্রতিষ্ঠানগুলো এখন কার্যাদেশ নিয়ে ফিরে আসছে।’

২০২৪ সালকে ‘সবচেয়ে বেশি পণ্য রপ্তানির বছর’ হিসেবে আখ্যা দিয়ে বিডিএল গ্রুপের ব্যবস্থাপনা পরিচালক এমএ জব্বার ডেইলি স্টারকে জানান, তারা আন্তর্জাতিক ক্রেতাদের কাছ থেকে ব্যাপক হারে কার্যাদেশ পাচ্ছেন।

তার মতে, ‘এখন এই খাতের উন্নতির জন্য আমাদের আরও কাজ করা দরকার।’

তিনি পোশাক খাতের জন্য ইপিবির মতো পৃথক প্রতিষ্ঠান গড়া এবং আরও বাজার পেতে কৃত্রিম সুতা ও স্পোর্টসওয়্যার বিভাগে বিনিয়োগ বাড়ানোর সুপারিশ করেছেন।

ব্যবসা বাড়াতে রাজনৈতিক স্থিতিশীলতার আহ্বান জানিয়েছেন ঢাকা চেম্বার অব কমার্স অ্যান্ড ইন্ডাস্ট্রির (ডিসিসিআই) সাবেক সভাপতি রিজওয়ান রহমান।

তিনি মনে করেন, আইনশৃঙ্খলা পরিস্থিতির তেমন উন্নতি হয়নি। এখনো ব্যবসার পরিবেশ স্বাভাবিক নয়।

বিজিএমইএর সাবেক সভাপতি ফারুক হাসানের মতে, রাজনৈতিক ও শ্রমিক অসন্তোষ ছাড়াও বিদ্যুৎ ও জ্বালানি সংকট এ খাতে বিনিয়োগ কমিয়েছে। ফলে এ বছর এ খাতে কাজের সুযোগ খুব বেশি হয়নি।

বিশ্বব্যাপী বিশেষায়িত পোশাকের চাহিদা বাড়ছে উল্লেখ করে তিনি ভালো দাম পেতে ও রপ্তানি বাড়াতে কৃত্রিম সুতায় আরও বিনিয়োগের পরামর্শ দেন।

Clog London announces plans to open 24 stores in the coming year

Clog London has unveiled plans to open 24 new stores in the next year. The expansion will include outlets in Tier-1 and Tier-2 cities, focusing on both company-owned and franchise-operated formats. Additionally, the brand is gearing up for further growth by securing spaces in numerous upcoming shopping centres over the next few years.

“We aim to ensure the success of each store as we expand,” said Gopal Rathor, Director of Clog London, in an interview with India Retailing. “Rising consumer demand and digital adoption have driven our momentum, allowing us to align with trends and advance our brand’s digitisation.”

Since its inception in 2018, Clog London has grown fivefold, offering a blend of comfort and trend-driven styles. The brand operates as an omni-channel retailer with exclusive brand outlets across Delhi NCR and Haryana, complemented by its presence on leading e-commerce platforms such as Ajio, Myntra, and Amazon India.

As the brand continues its expansion, its strategy includes increasing its presence through shop-in-shop formats and exclusive brand outlets. With a focus on consumer preferences and digital integration, Clog London is positioning itself as a leading name in India’s footwear and accessories market.

North India Cotton Yarn Prices Range-Bound in Final Days of 2024

In the final days of 2024, cotton yarn prices in North India have remained largely range-bound, showing limited movement despite fluctuating market dynamics. The price stability comes as demand from key domestic and international markets has been inconsistent, with manufacturers and traders adopting a cautious approach ahead of the new year.

Cotton yarn prices have been under pressure throughout the year due to various factors, including fluctuating cotton prices, rising input costs, and shifting demand patterns. Despite these challenges, prices in key North Indian markets like Ludhiana, Panipat, and Delhi have seen only marginal changes in recent weeks, as mills and traders attempt to balance production costs with customer expectations.

The Indian cotton yarn market has been experiencing mixed trends. While the domestic textile sector, especially in woven fabric and knitted apparel production, has maintained a steady demand, exports have been impacted by global economic factors, such as currency fluctuations and reduced orders from major markets like the US and EU. However, some industry experts suggest that there could be slight upward pressure on yarn prices in early 2025, depending on the outcomes of the upcoming cotton harvest and any changes in global cotton prices.

As the year closes, textile manufacturers in North India are closely monitoring the cotton market and its trends. While the cotton yarn prices have remained largely stable, the broader outlook for 2025 will depend on international demand, raw material prices, and the ongoing economic challenges faced by the sector.

Union leaders demand emergency fund for laid-off RMG workers

A group of union leaders of the garment sector today urged the government to form an emergency fund to provide financial benefit to the laid-off workers, as many are still deprived.

The union leaders made the demand at a meeting with the members of the Labour Reform Commission at the Department of Labour in Dhaka.

To press home their multiple demands, the leaders gave an example of over 40,000 laid-off workers of 16 textile and garment factories of Beximco Group.

They said the Beximco workers will now face trouble in obtaining the service benefits as the group has been struggling to pay the workers since the arrest of its vice chairman, Salman F Rahman.

The Beximco management announced the termination of workers, citing a lack of international work orders as the reason.

Many other factories may also lay off workers amid the current economic situation, the leaders said.

Uncertainty about accessing service benefits increases when workers are laid off in such circumstances, and an emergency fund could be of great help in ensuring these workers receive their deserving service benefits, they said.

The leaders emphasised that neither the government nor the owners alone can fully cover the service benefits; instead, a fund jointly formed by the government and the owners can serve this purpose.

The Labour Reform Commission has been holding a series of meetings with the workers, and 12 meetings have so far been held, said Syed Sultan Uddin Ahmed, chairman of the commission.

The commission will hold 60 meetings with different sectors to receive recommendations for the legal protection of workers of all sectors and setting a national minimum wage, he said.

In today’s meeting, the union leaders said the workers are not properly getting help from the central fund, which was set up for garment workers’ welfare in 2016 where the country’s apparel makers contribute 0.03 percent of their export proceeds in each fiscal year.

The leaders also spoke about establishing a better working environment and introducing a rationing system for the workers, said the chief of the commission, the tenure of which will come to an end in mid-February next year.

The labour law should be reformed to ensure that workers receive justice, he said.

Closing factories is not a solution, and established factories need assistance to remain operational, he also stated.

The government should also be aware that many may close factories and terminate workers in order to receive bank loan waivers, Ahmed said.

The government should identify whether the owners are laying off the workers willingly or there is any valid reason, he said.

In the meeting, Montu Ghosh, president of Garments Workers’ Trade Union Centre, suggested introducing strong provision in the labour law so that the workers get payments in time and their jobs remain secured even if they get involved in trade unionism.

Kazi Md Ruhul Amin, general secretary of the Bangladesh Trade Union Centre, recommended ensuring the safety of workers’ lives at the workplace, improving industrial relations, and developing labour laws that meet global standards.

Iran projects 65k tons of cotton production by March 2025

With a development in the agricultural sector, Iran expects to produce 65,000 tons of cotton by the end of the current Iranian calendar year, which concludes on March 20, 2025.

Figure: Iran’s textile industry requires 150,000 to 180,000 tons of cotton annually.

The announcement was made by Ebrahim Hezarjaribi, the Director of the Cotton Plan at the Ministry of Agriculture, in an exclusive interview with IRIB, the soleIranian public service broadcaster.

“Harvesting of cotton has started in the country since September, and we anticipate reaching our target by year-end,” Hezarjaribi stated.

Iran’s textile industry requires 150,000 to 180,000 tons of cotton annually, with domestic producers supplying about 40 to 50 percent of the demand. “The rest of the country’s needs are met through imports,” Hezarjaribi added.

This expected production represents a steady stride in reducing reliance on imports and bolstering local agriculture.

Experts see this as a vital step toward self-sufficiency in the textile sector, despite the challenges of meeting full market demand domestically.

Notably, efforts are ongoing to enhance cotton cultivation and efficiency, with government and industry leaders.

Vietnam rises to second largest global garment exporter with US $ 44 billion in exports

Vietnam is set to become the world’s second-largest garment and textile exporter, with projected exports reaching US $ 44 billion this year, second only to India, according to Vinatex General Director Cao Huu Hieu.

At a 25th December meeting in Hanoi, Vinatex reviewed its 2024 performance and outlined strategies for 2025, emphasising sustainable development through ESG (environment, society, governance) principles. Plans include digital transformation, advanced governance models, and integrating automation and AI to reduce labor dependency.

Deputy Chief Hoang Manh Cam highlighted positive trends in major markets like the US and EU, driven by economic recovery and higher consumer spending. Additionally, shifts in orders from Bangladesh offer significant opportunities for Vietnamese manufacturers.

While early 2024 witnessed modest growth, the latter half saw a surge in orders due to political upheavals in competing nations. Vinatex’s consolidated revenue reached 18.1 trillion VND (US $ 724 million), a 2.8 per cent year-on-year increase, with profits rising 37.5 per cent to 740 billion VND. Employee incomes grew by 8.9 per cent, averaging 10.3 million VND monthly.

Development of a new Cotton-Nylon Blended Yarn (CNBY) overcoming challenges of spinning process (Part: 1)

The demand for stylish fabrics has risen as consumers seek both aesthetic appeal and performance. Yarn variety and quality are crucial for texture, durability, and visual appeal. The global blended fiber market, valued at USD 43.37 billion in 2023, is projected to grow to USD 66.52 billion by 2030, with a CAGR of 6.3%. Common blends like cotton-polyester, wool-polyester, and cotton-viscose vary in fiber percentages to balance properties such as softness, durability, and breathability, catering to applications like clothing and home textiles.

Innovations in blended yarns, especially with cotton-nylon, offer durability and cost efficiency. Nylon enhances cotton’s strength, stretchability, and moisture management, countering cotton’s tendency to stretch and lose shape over time. Research shows that blending synthetic fibers with cotton improves properties like strength and moisture-wicking but poses spinning challenges. Cotton-nylon blends face issues in fiber distribution, leading to yarn imperfections, and nylon’s stretch complicates processing.

This study aims to develop cotton/nylon blended yarn in current production, addressing spinning challenges. By optimizing fiber and spinning parameters, it seeks to enhance yarn quality and performance, providing an alternative for the textile industry.

2.0 Materials

100% cotton fiber came from Burkina Faso, whose supplier was LDC, and were imported from Africa. This cotton fibers were processed from blow room to combing to produce the clean combed cotton fibers. On the other hand, Ningbo Lucky Import & Export Ltd. provided staple nylon fiber, which originated in China. And clean-combed cotton and nylon fibers were mixed in ratios of 80:20 & 90:10 by hand. Table 1 shows the physical properties of cotton and nylon fiber and spandex.

Table 1: Properties of cotton and nylon fiber

3.0 Experimentation:

Cotton – Nylon blended yarn was made with maintaining the blended ratio in the following manufacturing process:

3.1 Manufacturing process: Based on weight, 80% of combed cotton fibers and 20% of virgin nylon fibers were manually mixed and it was fed to feed lattice of Unimix (brand: Rieter, model: B34) that was integrated with carding machine (brand: Rieter, model: C70). The weight of 6 yards card sliver was 480 grains. The six card slivers were fed into breaker draw frame (model: Toyota DX7A). The weight of 6 yards breaker drawn sliver was 385 grains. The 8 breaker drawn slivers were fed to finisher drawing frame (model: Toyota DX7A-LT). The weight of 6 yards finisher drawn sliver was 380 grains. Roving of 1.05 Ne, TPI 1.15 was prepared by roving frame (model Toyota FL 200). Ring machine (model: Jingwei F1508) was used to produce the CNBY and Drafts 3.5 for 70D and 3.25 for 40D were given in the lycra for each count in the resulting yarns. Where spandex or lycra filament imported from Vietnam and the supplier was Pangrim Neotex Co., Ltd. Finally, winding machine of Muratec company (model: 21C) was used to prepare the cones from ring cops. Schematic diagram of manufacturing of CNBY is shown in Figure 1.

Figure 1: Graphical representation of CNBY manufacturing process.

3.2 Characterization of Yarn:

High volume instrument (HVI) was used to measure the cotton fiber properties. Uster Tester 5 was used to evaluate the sliver, roving and yarn quality. The unevenness (U%), coefficient of variation in mass (CVm%), thin place (-50%) per km, thick place (+50%) per km, neps (+200%) per km, hairiness of the developed sample were analyzed. Mechanical properties of developed samples were measured by MesdanLab strength tester (model: Tenso-Lab4 2512E).

Test GenericYarnTraction – 2024-09-08T16:41 was followed according to the standard traction of yarns. The execution parameters were as follows: sample length of 500 mm; traverse speed during test 500 mm/min; pretension 0 cN/tex; recording rate 0 mm. Traction properties include RKM, maximum force to break (F.Max), elongation at maximum force (E@MF).

Uster® Tensojet 4 (Switzerland) was used to examine the breaking-force (B-Force), breaking-work (B-Work), tenacity, scatter diagram. Electronic wrap reel (Mesdan, model: 161W) and wrap drum (Mesdan, model: 254B) were used to measure the length of yarn, sliver/roving respectively. Lea strength tester (model: MAG-Y0501, India) was used to measure the count strength product (CSP) of the yarn.

To determine the mean for each sample, the average of ten tests was taken into account. Every test was conducted at 20 ± 2°C with a relative humidity of 65 ± 2%.

4.0 Results and discussion:

4.1 Optimization in spinning process:

Basically, in this study, focused on the optimization of carding machine parameters. Here, initially the values of the parameters were slightly greater than the findings values are shown in Table 1.

Table 1: Findings parameters of carding machine

4.2 Results of preparatory process:

Table 2: Sliver and roving quality of CNBY

Table 2 shows that a higher cotton ratio (90:10) in cotton-nylon blended yarn improves quality across sliver and roving stages. The 90:10 blend consistently reduces unevenness (U%) and mass variation (CVm%) compared to the 80:20 blend: from card sliver (U% 3.53, CVm% 4.39) to roving (U% 2.97, CVm% 3.66). This improvement is due to the enhanced cohesion and alignment of cotton fibers, leading to more uniform sliver and roving production.

Russian largest fashion brand to source 30% from Bangladesh

Russia’s largest fashion brand, Gloria Jeans, plans to source its 30% from Bangladesh with an annual turnover of $70 million by 2025. This is part of the company’s strategy to explore new sourcing destinations by reducing local garment production in Russia.

Russian largest fashion brand to source 30% from Bangladesh
Figure: Collected

Recently, Moyeen Ahmed, Gloria Jeans’ regional general manager for Bangladesh, India, and Pakistan said this with an interview with The Business Standard.

He said, “Last year, we saw a significant increase in sourcing from Bangladesh. In 2025, we plan to expand our business by up to 30% compared to the outgoing year.”

He mentioned the company’s decision to exit Uzbekistan a year ago and hinted at plans to close 6-7 manufacturing units in Russia, with some orders expected to be redirected to key suppliers China and Vietnam, as well as Bangladesh.

The local office in Bangladesh produces a significant amount of denim fabric, which has increased its competitiveness. However, high tariffs on garment exports to Russia remain a significant challenge, making Bangladeshi products less competitive in price compared to Vietnam, he said.

“If Bangladesh successfully negotiates the removal of these tariffs, it could emerge as the largest supplier to Russia, which has immense potential for garment exports,” he added.

Six Bangladeshi suppliers currently supply about a third of Russia’s denim imports, with ABA Group and Square Group leading the way as the top exporters.

In addition to denim, Gloria Jeans sources jersey knitwear and sweaters from Bangladesh. The company is also producing outerwear with Text Town Group, aiming to bring in new orders next season.

Currently, 26 garment factories in Bangladesh make Gloria Jeans clothing. When Moyeen joined the company in 2015, its annual sourcing from Bangladesh was worth $5 million. By 2018, this had increased to $80 million.

In 2023, Gloria Jeans sourced 13 million pieces from Bangladesh, with a 15% increase projected for this year – a number that could increase further with the tariff waivers.

India’s GST Council maintains RMG tax rates after industry opposition

The GST Council decided to maintain the current tax structure on ready-made garments (RMG) at its 55th meeting held in Jaisalmer last Saturday. Earlier, a tax hike of up to 35 per cent on RMG had been proposed by a Group of Ministers (GoM) on Rate Rationalization, led by Bihar Deputy Chief Minister Samrat Chaudhary.

The meeting, chaired by Union Minister for Finance and Corporate Affairs Nirmala Sitharaman last Saturday, did not address or discuss the proposed tax hike.

The GoM had suggested imposing a 35 per cent GST on RMG priced above ₹10,000 (approximately $118). It had proposed a GST of 18 per cent on RMG priced between ₹1,500 and ₹10,000, and 5 per cent on RMG priced below ₹1,500. Additionally, it had proposed raising the highest GST slab from 28 per cent to 35 per cent. This highest slab is typically applied to luxury goods and sin goods and services.

Textile industry organisations had opposed the proposal, arguing that it could have catastrophic consequences for the textile and garment industry, particularly for small retailers, traditional brick-and-mortar businesses, and the millions of workers dependent on this sector for their livelihood.

In 2022, another proposal to increase taxes on downstream products to resolve the issue of an inverted duty structure was also poorly received by the industry and opposed.

The labour-intensive textile industry is the largest job generator after agriculture in the country.

RMG BANGLADESH NEWS