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Bangladesh aims to double garment exports to Australia in 5 years

Bangladesh has set eyes on doubling its garment exports to Australia, which is one of the largest and potential markets for Bangladeshi apparel, within the next five years.

Entrepreneurs in the sector are optimistic that Bangladesh can capitalise the expected reduction in China’s garment exports to Australia, much like it has successfully done in Europe and the United States.

Despite the upcoming graduation from least developed country (LDC) status in 2026, which could impact duty-free access to the Australian market, Bangladeshi entrepreneurs remain hopeful that the preferential trade benefits for apparel will remain intact.

In fiscal 2022-23, Bangladesh’s readymade garment (RMG) exports to Australia reached $1.2 billion, marking an impressive 42% growth despite a global slowdown, as reported by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

According to Fibre2Fashion, in 2021, Australia’s total apparel imports amounted to $7.382 billion, with China holding around 63% of the share. Bangladesh ranks as the second-highest apparel exporter to Australia, followed by Vietnam, India, and Indonesia.

To pursue the ambitious goal of doubling RMG exports to Australia within five years, a delegation led by Faruque Hassan, president of the BGMEA, is currently on a visit to the country.

During the visit, the first-ever Bangladesh Apparel Summit took place on 18 July, where the delegation engaged in meetings with representatives from the Australian government, non-governmental organisations, and various brands.

Shahidullah Azim, vice president of BGMEA and a member of the visiting delegation, expressed his confidence in Australia as a highly promising market. He shared, “We anticipate a decline in Chinese garment exports to Australia, and we hope that Bangladesh can fill that void.”

“We have held productive meetings with brands such as Kmart Australia, Cotton On, Target Australia, and others, and received an overwhelmingly positive response,” he added.

Asif Ashraf, director of the BGMEA and a member of the visiting representative team, expressed their hopes for doubling RMG exports to Australia, given the tremendous response received from buyers.

Bangladesh primarily exports its RMG to traditional markets such as the USA, EU, and UK. However, the country is now eyeing non-traditional markets like Australia, Japan, Brazil, India, and China as part of its market diversification strategy.

Continuation of duty-free access to Australian market

During the visit, the clothing lobby group met with fashion brands, members of parliament, Oxfam Australia – a renowned independent and community-based aid and development organisation, and other think-tanks.

According to BGMEA leaders, they reiterated the logic of obtaining duty-free market access to Australia after Bangladesh’s LDC graduation. The BGMEA representatives expressed hope that Australia would consider this proposal very positively.

Last month, the United Kingdom introduced an initiative called the Development Country’s Trading Scheme (DCTS), which would allow Bangladesh to export almost 98% of its products to the UK duty-free.

Shahidullah Azim told TBS, “Canada also is considering duty-free access for Bangladesh’s export products, similar to the UK. We hope Australia will offer us this facility as well.”

However, during the discussions, the Australian side raised concerns about Bangladesh’s labour rights and the recent murder of a workers leader in Gazipur, as well as the issue of the new wage board.

“We explained our position and the current situation regarding these issues, and they were convinced,” he added.

RMG workers may call for Tk20,000 minimum wage or above

The representatives of readymade garment (RMG) workers are likely to demand a minimum monthly wage of Tk20,000, taking into account inflation, the current expenditure of the workers’ families and the capacity of the apparel industry.

Sirajul Islam Rony, labour representative at the Wage Board, told The Business Standard, “Inflation has gone up a lot in the last five years. Considering other factors, the minimum wage should be Tk21,000 in our calculation. But we do not want to propose a figure below Tk18,000.”

Noting that it has not been finalised yet, he said, “The meeting with owners is scheduled to be held next week. We will finalise the wage proposal before the meeting.”

However, labour organisations in the country have demanded that the minimum wage of the workers in the garment sector should be Tk23,000 considering the current market situation.

Some organisations are even pressing for Tk24,000. In a press conference on 11 July, the IndustriALL Bangladesh Council (IBC), an alliance of 16 garment workers’ federations, demanded to raise the wage to Tk23,000.

Sirajul Islam Rony said, “I want to propose from the point of view of reality.”

But IBC President Amirul Haque Amin told TBS, “According to the current market rate of goods, it should be more than Tk23,000. Because earlier when we made the proposal of Tk23,000 wage, prices of products were much cheaper than now. Hence, a proposal of less than Tk23,000 wage from the workers’ side will be very disappointing.”

The RMG wage board was formed in 2018 and that year the minimum wage was fixed at Tk8,000, which was Tk5,300 earlier. 

However, due to the increase in commodity prices, RMG workers could not wait for another five years for a new wage structure and took to the streets demanding a raise on several occasions.

Finally, the new wage board was formed in early April this year, including Sirajul Islam Rony as the representative of the workers and Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) former president Siddiqur Rahman as the factory owners’ representative.

After the formation of the board, the first meeting was held on 24 May. Senior District Judge Liaquat Ali Molla is the chairman of this minimum wage board.

The date for the next board meeting is not fixed yet, but expected to be held in a week or so, said sources.

People, including nearly 40 lakh workers in the garment industry, have been struggling with high inflation for the past year. 

According to the Bangladesh Bureau of Statistics (BBS), inflation stood at 9.94% last May, which was the highest in the last 11 years. Overall, average inflation was above 9% in the fiscal year 2022-23, compared to the average inflation of 6% in the fiscal year 2021-22.

According to Section 141 of the existing Labor Act of Bangladesh, while formulating any recommendation (of wages), the wage board shall take into account the cost of living, standard of living, cost of production, productivity, cost of goods produced, inflation, type of work, risks and standards, business potential, country and area concerned. Socio-economic status and other relevant factors should also be considered.

Sirajul Islam Rony, who is also the president of Bangladesh National Garments Employees League, told TBS that these matters have been taken into consideration while preparing the latest wage proposal.

First ‘Best of Bangladesh’ expo in Europe 4-5 Sep

The first ever “Best of Bangladesh” exposition – exhibiting only Bangladeshi products in Europe – will be held on 4-5 September in Amsterdam, Netherlands.

The event to be organised by the Bangladesh Apparel Exchange with the support of the Bangladesh Embassy in the Netherlands aims to open the doors for Europe to experience what the best of Bangladeshi industries has to offer.

A total of 40 Bangladeshi companies – the best from the country’s apparel, textile, leather, agro, jute, handicrafts, pharmaceutical, light engineering, digital industry, fast-moving consumer goods, and bicycle sectors – will showcase their sustainable and innovative products in the exposition.

Founder and CEO of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange Mostafiz Uddin told The Business Standard, “It is not just an exhibition. The Best of Bangladesh will offer an experience of what the Bangladeshi industries could offer to Europe. In addition to making business connections, the visitors at the event will also be able to enjoy Bangla culture as embodied by its music, dance and art.

“Most importantly, the event will present the strides Bangladesh has made in safe, sustainable and ethical manufacturing. So, by visiting the Best of Bangladesh, our friends in Europe could rediscover Bangladesh and keep themselves updated about the latest developments in the major industries of this emerging economy of South Asia.”

There will be an inaugural and six interactive panel sessions at the exhibition, including “Bangladesh – Perspectives From An Emerging Economy”, “Bangladesh – Your Sustainable Sourcing Destination”, “Empowering the Future: Advancing Safety and Well-being for Garments Workforce in Bangladesh”, “Bangladesh Agro-Food: A Next Opportunity for Collaboration”, “Impact Investing – The Next Frontier”, “Sustainable Synergy: Circular Economy, Climate Action and Bangladesh’s Future”.

8 Bangladeshi manufacturers to participate in Texworld/Apparel Sourcing USA

Export Promotion Bureau Bangladesh (EPB) is organising a pavilion at the Texworld/Apparel Sourcing USA 2023.

Texworld/Apparel Sourcing USA will take place in Javits Convention Center in New York City from 18 to 20 July. 

Texworld New York City offers a wide product range covering the entire fabric spectrum, from casual cotton to functional fabrics and sophisticated knits to intricate laces. Apparel Sourcing New York City provides attendees direct access to suppliers specializing in ready-to-wear for men, women, children, and accessories.

A total of 986 exhibitors will participate from 26 countries. There will be country pavilions of Bangladesh, China, India, Pakistan, South Korea, Taiwan, Turkey and Uzbekistan.

From Bangladesh Embassy at USA, Commercial Counsellor Md Salim Reza will be there to facilitate and help out the Bangladeshi Exhibitors

Bangladesh will have direct exhibitors and a national pavilion organized by Export Promotion Bureau Bangladesh (EPB).

08 companies will represent Bangladesh at the fair:

Skyros Trading Ltd, Karupannya Rangpur Ltd, New Asia Fashion, A R Jeans Producer Ltd, Voyager Apparels, Zisas Fashion Ltd, Welstand Apparel and Entrust Textiles.

Exporters fear deeper losses amid political unrest, falling orders

The recent surge in political violence in the country has sparked concerns among exporters who are currently operating their factories at least 20% below capacity owing to declining orders from Western markets that are facing inflationary pressures for over a year.

While exporters were hopeful that the easing inflation in the USA and Europe would help in recovering orders, the ongoing political unrest is now seen as a potential risk. This has raised fears among international buyers who are becoming apprehensive about timely shipments of goods, potentially impacting the overall economy.

“We want to maintain the smooth operation of our production lines and shipments,” said Syed Mohammad Tanvir, managing director of Pacific Jeans Group, a prominent Bangladeshi apparel exporter based in the Chattogram Export Processing Zone.Infographic: TBS

Infographic: TBS

Tanvir, also a vice president of the Chattogram Chamber of Commerce and Industry, urged all political parties to refrain from engaging in activities that could damage Bangladesh’s reputation abroad.

Echoing Tanvir’s concerns, Mohammad Hatem, executive president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), highlighted the impact of political stability on the economy and exports over the last several years. 

He mentioned that during every national election year, apparel exporters experienced a slowdown in orders. Additionally, the ongoing war between Russia and Ukraine has further affected their business.

If the political situation is not good, then the overall situation of the country, business, and trade will suffer – [Jashim Uddin president, FBCCI]

“If political violence continues, international buyers will be worried, affecting our business”, said Hatem, adding, “The apparel exporters will not be able to withstand such a shock amid the ongoing challenges.”

Despite various challenges, in FY23, Bangladesh’s exports recorded a growth of 6.67% year-on-year, reaching $55.55 billion, with the apparel sector contributing 84% to the total earnings. However, this fell 4.28% short of the ambitious $58 billion target due to subdued global demand, economic upheavals, geopolitical crises, and inflationary pressures in Western countries.

AKM Shaheed Reza, chairman of Reza Group, said he was expecting a rise in orders from the third quarter of this year, but the recent political unrest has made many buyers go slow.

“After months’ of efforts, we got approval from a customer recently. But now that customer has told us to wait,” Reza

told The Business Standard. Infographic: TBSInfographic: TBS

A joint venture with a Korean company has also slowed down because of the political instability, he noted.

One of the country’s largest textile manufacturers seeking anonymity told TBS that most factories are currently operating at 50%-60% capacity, adding, “Continued political violence would be disastrous for the country’s economy, as the rising utility prices have doubled production costs, and textile millers are facing capital shortages due to slow business.”

An exporter also mentioned that some US buyers recently warned him about potential violence ahead of the national election, prompting them to place orders cautiously. 

Western buyers tend to be more cautious during election periods in third-world countries, he added. 

Although there were sporadic incidents of politically-charged skirmishes earlier in the year, a sense of political peace prevailed after the announcement of US visa restrictions on 24 May.

However, things changed when the BNP announced its one-point demand to topple the government and restore a non-partisan election-time government, leading to street agitation and rallies from both sides.

FBCCI President Md Jashim Uddin highlighted the critical connection between the country’s political situation and its overall economic health, stating, “If the political situation is not good, then the overall situation of the country, business, and trade will suffer.”

As businessmen, he said, their primary goal is to conduct business in a stable political environment. 

He expressed concern that an unstable situation could adversely impact the economy, noting the significant transformation in Bangladesh’s economy over the past decade.

Jasim Uddin also said the importance of avoiding disruptions such as strikes, saying that the current state of the country’s economy cannot withstand such old practices.

“We want a peaceful environment, which is essential for the growth and prosperity of both the economy and businesses,” he said.

Asking for anonymity, the head of business at one of the leading multinational buying houses in the country said a number of buyers are moving to India to secure their supply chain ahead of the election, apprehending political unrest in Bangladesh.

Every buyer wants to source from a stable society, adding that sanctions on some people and visa curb threat by the USA, makes buyers careful, he said, adding that the EU and Canada always follow the USA in international issues.

Economists also voice concerns

Economists also have expressed concerns about the escalating political instability, especially in the context of the upcoming national elections. 

They urged all political parties to stage their demonstrations peacefully, as any further unrest may adversely affect the country’s image, leading to a decline in export earnings.

Professor Mustafizur Rahman, distinguished fellow of the Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD), said the country is facing a crucial time with both local and global challenges impacting economic activities. 

He emphasised the importance of political movements, democratic rights, transparency, accountability, and good governance for all political parties.

Mustafizur Rahman also emphasised the need to protect the economy from negative activities and disruptions in the production process.

Dr MA Razzaque, research director of the Policy Research Institute of Bangladesh, points out that any kind of uncertainty is detrimental to businesses. 

“Existing macro-economic uncertainties, low reserves, high inflation, and curtailed imports are already affecting businesses.

First ever Bangladesh Apparel Summit held in Australia

The Bangladesh Apparel Summit was organized in Melbourne, on 18 July 2023, to demonstrate the strengths and transformation of the RMG industry of Bangladesh into a safe and sustainable apparel sourcing hub in the world.

This was the first-ever Summit organized abroad by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) in association with HSBC.

The summit was supported by Bangladesh High Commission in Australia while Snowtex Group, Team Group, Green Textile Limited, a concern of Epic Group, and Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA) were the event partners.

The event brought together a wide spectrum of stakeholders including brands and retailers, and also people from academia, NGOs including Oxfam Australia, Action Aid, cotton and wool suppliers, and Australian government officials. 

The summit served as an opportunity for fruitful discussion, interactions, and exchange of views and information. 

International speakers and experts took part in three sessions including an opening plenary on separate topics in the summit.

The opening plenary was addressed by Faruque Hassan, President, BGMEA,  Antony Shaw, CEO, HSBC Australia, Ian Bailey, Managing Director, Kmart Group and H.E. M. Allama Siddiki, Bangladesh High Commissioner to Australia.

Shahidullah Azim, Vice President of BGMEA, made the welcome speech while Shovon Islam, Chair of BGMEA Standing Committee on Press, Publicity and Publication, anchored the opening session.

In his speech, BGMEA President Faruque Hassan gave an overview of the RMG industry of Bangladesh, detailing how the sector has made vast progress in the areas of workplace safety, environmental sustainability and workers’ welfare, further boosting the confidence of international buyers in garments made in Bangladesh.

Highlighting the industry’s vision to elevate its position as a high-value apparel exporter, he said, “There is a wider perception that Bangladesh is a commodity producer, which is not true anymore. You will be surprised to know that we are manufacturing garments worth more than 100 dollars per unit price. We have taken a vision to remodel our industry – from labour-intensive manufacturing to innovation, high-value and modern manufacturing process.” 

He also said, “We are now the largest source of Denim, both in USA and EU markets. In quantity terms, we have already become the largest apparel source for Europe.”

“Australia is one of the emerging and high-potential trade and investment partners of Bangladesh. In the last 8 years, the bilateral trade between the two countries has increased by 8.95% annually. Currently, apparel is the main export for Bangladesh to Australia. In the last fiscal year 2022-23, our export to Australia crossed the billion dollars milestone for the first time,” Faruque Hassan said, adding that more potential lies ahead to enhance export share in the Australian market.

“And, that is where, I believe, Bangladesh and Australia have much to gain and benefit by collaborating with each other,” he further said.

Bangladesh’s latest garment products were shown through an exhibition at the summit visited by the participants including buyers.

An exclusive photo exhibition of Bangladesh and its nature was organized as part of the summit which attracted huge attention and appreciation from the visitors. 

MasterChef Australia Kishwar Chowdhury catered her famous dishes at the dinner followed by the summit that amazed the gathering. 

Joanne Ryan MP, Federal Member for Lalor and Chief Government Whip, gave the closing remark at the summit while Dr. Sharif As-Saber, President, GAIN International, shared the summary of the summit.

The first session of the summit focused on the topic titled “Trade between Australia and Bangladesh – Charting the path for next decade”. 

Mahbub-ur-Rahman, CEO, HSBC Bangladesh; Paul Murdoch, Brand Production Manager, Cotton On Group; Kevin Roberts, Co-Founder, No timid souls; and Dr. Wahed Waheduzzaman, Lecturer, Swinburne University of Technology shared their insights as speakers in the session which was moderated by Asif Ashraf, Director, BGMEA.

The speakers shed light on how the Bangladesh-Australia bilateral trade relationship could be further enhanced by addressing the progress of Bangladeshi trade in the Australian market. 

They also shared their thoughts on a possible pathway for Bangladesh’s ambitious goal of achieving a ‘100 billion dollars’ RMG export turnover and how Australia could complement particularly in the area of innovation, technology adaptation and high-end segments.

The second session was on “Sustainability matters – ESG collaborations to shape the future of fashion” where Leila Naja Hibri, CEO, Australian Fashion Council; Lyn Morgain, CE, Oxfam Australia; Rachid Maliki, General Manager – Global Sourcing & Supply chain, Country Road, Dr. Shelley Marshall, Associate Professor, RMIT University and Charith Jayasundera, ESG Strategy Expert,  KPMG Australia took part as speakers. Shams Mahmud, Chair of BGMEA Standing Committee on Foreign Mission Cell, moderated the session.  

The session focused on the critical aspects of sustainability within Bangladesh’s RMG sector and Australia’s priorities. 

Transparency, traceability, responsibility, and the need for a fair and equitable share in the supply chain were also topics of discussion in the session. The well-being of workers, emphasizing rights, safe working conditions, and social welfare were also highlighted in the discussion. 

Bangladesh’s remarkable sustainability transformation, along with the country’s commitment to sustainable practices and its progress toward achieving key environmental, social, and governance goals were discussed in the session.

13th edition of Zaber & Zubair fabric week to be held on 18-23 July

The 13th edition of Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Limited is hosting an international fabric expo for global apparel buyers from the 18-23 July at its Gulshan marketing office.

Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Limited is a textile division of Noman Group of Industries, said a press release.

From the fiscal years 2006-07 to 2017-18, Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Limited is an organisation in Bangladesh to have earned 12 consecutive Highest Exporter Awards from the government of Bangladesh.

This season, Zaber & Zubair will showcase fabric collections for the international market that are mostly made of eco-friendly fabrics with sustainable properties. This expo will include 180 new products and 40 new innovations.

Many of the enthusiasts have already registered for this event. Most of the prestigious major worldwide fashion retailers and buying houses come to ZnZ fabric week in quest for new innovations, twice every year, reads the release.

Zaber & Zubair Fabric Week 2023 focuses on sustainable products

Zaber & Zubair is showcasing 40 new innovations including sustainable and 180 new products to international buyers

Zaber and Zubair Fabric Week 2023 is focusing on sustainable products, aiming to increase their export amid a shortage of orders in the last couple of months.

On the inaugural day of Zaber and Zubair Fabric Week 2023, the company showcased 40 new innovations including sustainable and 180 new products for the autumn and winter season of 2024-25 to international buyers and local apparel manufacturers at its Gulshan marketing office on Monday.

Zaber & Zubair Fabrics, the largest textile division of Noman Group of Industries, has introduced recycled yarn, pineapple, banana, ecovero, livaeco, hemp, bamboo, jute and other sustainable fibres to produce innovative and sustainable fabrics.

Besides, it has also introduced an updated version of Sorona – a partially plant-based polymer, to get better comfort instead of spandex. They also have brought Lycra anti x slip – a premium synthetic fibre for woven and denim products, the company officials said. 

The organiser mentioned that a number of buyers have already visited their event and the crowd is expected to be more in the coming days.

Talking with The Business Standard, Noman Group Managing Director Mohammad Abdullah Zaber said they are highly focused on sustainable fabrics and currently are producing fabrics with 75% sustainable properties.

He said it helps them to get better prices from the apparel buyers which will be helpful to meet the export target during the ongoing global economic turmoil. 

Zaber further explained that with the use of 20% to 30% recycled cotton in fabrics, buyers pay 15 cents to 25 cents additional.

The company has invested in research and development of more sustainable products, he said.

“We have developed some fabric using about 20% to 30% of jute fibre, 15% to 25% pineapple fibre and banana fibre,” he said.

Zaber mentioned that they have sent these products to their partners like, H&M, American Eagle, Target USA , Zara, Bestseller and M&S.

He was hopeful to get positive responses as most retailers have set a target to introduce a large part of sustainable products by 2030.

Md Quamruzzaman, CEO of Lextree, the exclusive representative of the Lycra Company said they have worked with this fabric mill (Zaber & Zubair) to develop woven and denim products using Lycra anti x slip fibre.

“This fibre extends the life of garment products, provides long-lasting comfort, gives fit and shape retention, and reduces unsightly puckering worsened by repeated washing,” he added.

Pakistan textile industry falls 26% YoY

The production of cotton yarn and cotton cloth in Pakistan’s textile industry has significantly decreased, observed a total fall of 26% year-over-year.

However, the apparel industry has had phenomenal growth, with clothing output rising by 13% annually in April 2023 and an astonishing 26% annually in the first 11 months of FY2023.

The drop in output of cotton yarn and cotton cloth, two capital-intensive divisions of the textile industry, can be ascribed to a number of factors, according to Nasheed Malik, a textile sector analyst at Topline Securities.

Figure: The production of cotton yarn and cotton cloth in Pakistan’s textile industry has significantly decreased, observed a total fall of 26% year-over-year. 

These components, which include mechanized operations like spinning and weaving, heavily rely on equipment and power. This drop is a result of a combination of technological limits, economic difficulties, and price variations in raw materials.

Malik highlighted that Pakistan’s currency underwent two rounds of rupee devaluation against the US dollar in 2018-19 and 2022-23. Again, the apparel industry’s success can be credited to two major factors.

“These devaluations have made Pakistani labor comparatively cheaper, providing a competitive advantage similar to that of Bangladesh,” he added.

Consequently, apparel and garments manufactured in Pakistan have become more cost-effective, attracting increased orders from international buyers.

The All-Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) has expressed worry over the industry’s high energy prices, which make up between 30 and 40% of manufacturing costs. APTMA has urged that losses and cross-subsidies be excluded from a separate category of power pricing. Lower electricity costs would have a substantial impact on the industry’s entire cost structure and improve its ability to compete.

If this demand is met, textile exports could potentially reach $50 billion by FY2027, compared to the current value of $16.5 billion during FY2023, which reflects a 15% year-on-year decline in the 11-month period.

Recent data for the Large-Scale Manufacturing Index (LSMI) in May 2023 reveals a concerning 14.37% year-on-year decrease. The 11-month period of FY2023 also shows an overall decline of 9.87% year-on-year. This decline can be attributed to various sectors, including textiles, automobiles, food, pharmaceuticals, petroleum products, cement, and tobacco.

The furniture and clothing sectors, which witnessed growth rates of 2.6% and 0.5%, respectively, have made some constructive contributions. The LSMI has demonstrated a promising 5.9% gain month over month.

Pakistan’s declining textile industry and expanding apparel industry serve as a reminder of the necessity for all-encompassing measures to address the sector’s problems. Government officials, business leaders, and politicians must work together to develop creative solutions that boost productivity, cut costs, and boost competitiveness. Pakistan may work to develop a more robust and prosperous manufacturing sector by utilizing the garment industry’s advantages and tackling the challenges it faces.

Textile industries can be set up in leased jute mills

From now on, entrepreneurs can set up textile industries by leasing state-owned jute mills. Bangladesh Jute Mill Corporation (BJMC) has brought necessary changes in various conditions and references in this regard.

Figure: From now on, entrepreneurs can set up textile industries by leasing state-owned jute mills.

BJMC has relaxed the policy due to lack of interested entrepreneurs. According to the revised policy, private sector entrepreneurs will now be able to lease state-owned jute mills to produce jute, jute products or textile products. They can work in forward and backward linkages both in jute and textile. At the same time, the lease term has been increased by 10 years to 30 years.

Recently, an international tender prepared for the lease of nine jute mills under the supervision of BJMC to the private sector has said these things after revising the previous policy.

Earlier BJMC had allowed only jute or jute products to be produced in state owned jute mills. In this case, the lease term was 20 years.

According to a BJMC source, entrepreneurs are not only willing to invest in jute and jute products. For this reason, it has been decided to allow the establishment of textile industry which is a promising sector of export potential.

Nasimul Islam, General Manager (Administration and Social Services) of BJMC said, despite repeated attempts to hand over the jute mills to the private sector, we did not get much response from the entrepreneurs. Because of that opportunity is being given to textile. Ten new mill leases have been tendered.

Although the process of re-leasing the closed jute mills to the private sector was initially strong, the pace of leasing slowed down due to economic uncertainty and the subsequent dollar crisis. At the beginning of the preparation of international tenders in 2021, major companies of the country, including Pran, Bay and Akiz Group, expressed their desire to take the lease of state-owned jute mills. Besides, some entrepreneurs from India and UK were also interested in getting lease of jute mills.

However, due to various conditions of the government and the duration of the medium-term lease, the interest of many organizations later declined.

A. Barik, Secretary General, Bangladesh Jute Mill Association said that the reason for private entrepreneurs’ disinterest in state-owned jute mills is the poor condition of the mills and the government’s various conditions.

He said that all the mills of BJMC are very old. The production capacity of these is a quarter of the new machine. Labor costs are several times higher. Apart from this, no development initiative has ever been taken.

Now the entire jute sector is being pushed towards destruction by converting jute into textiles. Textile millers will bring cotton from abroad to make yarn. And the jute farmers of our country will stop jute production without getting the fare price. By reopening these mills, the dream of development of jute will end completely, he added.

Current jute mill leasing status

Although started two years ago, so far only three jute mills have gone into production. About 400 crore taka have been invested in it. KFD Jute Mills of Chittagong Region under Unitex Group; Bangladesh Jute Mills of Narsingdi under Bay Group and National Jute Mills under Rashid Group are in operation.

KFD Jute Mills and Bangladesh Jute Mills are currently exporting jute products. Besides, the Rashid Group is using the manufactured products (especially sacks) themselves. They are one of the largest suppliers of rice across the country.

According to BJMC sources, there will be a joint inspection to resume production of the six jute mills soon. They will be handed over after joint inspection of BJMC and selected entrepreneurs.

Besides, three private sector entrepreneurs have been selected for three jute mills in Khulna and Chittagong zones. Four H Apparel is selected for leasing out Mills Furnishing Limited, a non-jute mill in the Chattagram zone; Uni World for Doulatpur Jute Mills, and Akij Jute Mills for Jashore Jute Mills.

Corporation has selected the companies a few days ago. The mills will be handed over to BJMC after paying 24 months’ rent.

On July 1, 2020, the government shutdown 25 state-owned jute mills simultaneously due to losses and excessive production costs. Even though the private jute mills were profiting, the jute mills of BJMC were making losses year after year. Around 25,000 employees were laid off at that time.

Later, the government decided to open the closed jute mills in the private sector. The first international tender was invited in January 2021 to lease 17 of the 25 state-owned jute mills. It was stipulated in the tender that a lessee could only use these jute mills to produce jute, jute products and jute-varieties. The third tender is currently underway, but nine jute mills are yet to be leased.

Jute, known as golden fibers, was once the main cash crop of Bangladesh. Bangladesh ranks second in the world in jute production and first in the world in exporting jute and jute products. At present, Bangladesh manufactures 285 types of products from jute and exports them abroad. Currently, jute products worth $1.2 billion are being exported annually.

RMG BANGLADESH NEWS