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Mastercard partners with 3 firms to help RMG workers

Mastercard recently announced a global effort to pay garment factory workers digitally, a pivot the industry is making from traditional cash payroll to ensure workers receive their hard-earned wages securely and consistently. Partners include Levi Strauss & Co., Marks & Spencer, VF Corporation and global non-profit Business for Social Responsibility (BSR). The program aims to improve the well-being of factory workers who currently lack access to the financial tools and services that can help them and their families thrive. Around the globe, 230 million adults – nearly 85 percent of adults in low-income countries — who work in the private sector receive their wages in cash. But getting paid in cash creates significant challenges for both employees and factory owners. Not only are workers at risk for theft, but they also have limited ability to save and often have to take days off to travel miles to pay household bills. Mastercard and its partners are coordinating pilots in Egypt and Cambodia with a hybrid digital payment solution, according to a press release from the company. Participating factories will have the opportunity to deposit wages directly into workers’ accounts. Workers can then activate debit or prepaid cards–or digital wallets–through which they can pay bills or send money directly to family and friends. Providing hands-on peer training on digital financial services, financial planning and management, and how to discuss finances with family members can help make workers feel comfortable and confident transacting digitally. By partnering with companies that use labour-intensive supply chains, including garment manufacturing, Mastercard is creating digital solutions and delivering training support to give workers more control and transparency over their earnings and savings.

পোশাকখাতের নিরাপত্তা ও সংস্কার প্রকল্প চালু

বাংলাদেশের প্রধান রাপ্তানি পণ্য পোশাকশিল্পকে আরও প্রসারের লক্ষ্যে প্রতিষ্ঠানগুলোর অগ্নিনির্বাপক, কর্মপরিবেশ উন্নয়ন, শ্রমিকের নিরাপত্তা এবং সর্বোপরি পরিবেশবান্ধব ও নিরাপত্তা জোরদারে ঋণ ও কারিগরি সহায়তা দেবে আর্ন্তজাতিক তিনটি প্রতিষ্ঠান। ফ্রান্সের বৈদেশিক উন্নয়ন সংস্থা (এএফডি) ঋণ সহায়তা দেবে ৫০ মিলিয়ন, ইউরোপীয় ইউনিয়ন (ইইউ), জার্মান উন্নয়ন ব্যাংক (কেএফডব্লিউ), জার্মান সহযোগী প্রতিষ্ঠান (জিআইজেড) এবং বাংলাদেশ ব্যাংক অনুদান দেবে ১৪ দশমিক ২৯ মিলিয়ন ইউরো। মঙ্গলবার (১ অক্টোবর) বাংলাদেশ ব্যাংকের প্রেস বিজ্ঞপ্তিতে জানানো হয়, প্রকল্পের সব বিনিয়োগকারী ও স্টক হোল্ডারদের প্রকল্প বিষয়ে অবগত করার উদ্দেশে রাজধানীর দি আমারি হোটেলে ‘প্রোগ্রাম টু সাপোর্ট সেফটি রেট্রোফিটিং অ্যান্ড এনভায়রনমেন্টাল আপগ্রেডস ইন দ্য বাংলাদেশি রেডিমেইড গার্মেন্ট সেক্টর প্রজেক্ট (এসআরইইউপি)’ অনুষ্ঠানে স্বাগত বক্তব্য রাখেন- বাংলাদেশ ব্যাংকের মহাব্যবস্থাপক ও প্রকল্প পরিচালক মো. আব্দুল মান্নান। জিআইসিআই উন্নয়ন সহযোগী সংস্থার মধ্যে এএফডির কান্ট্রি ডিরেক্টর ড্যানিয়েল ভাইন, কেএফডব্লিউ ডেভেলপমেন্ট ব্যাংকের প্রোজেক্ট কো-অর্ডিনেটর ফাতেমা রোজালিন খান, ইইউর ফুড অ্যান্ড নিউট্রেশন সিকিউরিটি টু সাসটেইনেবল ডেভেলপমেন্ট’র ম্যানফ্রেড ফার্ন হৌলস, জিআইজেড কো-অর্ডিনেটর অফ টেক্সটাইল ক্লাস্টার টিম লিডার-ভিয়েনা ল্যাংগে, অর্থ মন্ত্রণালয়ের উপ-সচিব মুর্শেদা জামান প্রমুখ। এ প্রকল্পের সব উন্নয়ন সহযোগী সংস্থাসমূহের কর্মকর্তা প্রকল্পটির আওতায় নির্বাচিত ও আবেদনকৃত ব্যাংক ও আর্থিক প্রতিষ্ঠান সমূহ থেকে প্রতিনিধিগণ, বিভিন্ন তৈরি পোশাকশিল্প প্রতিষ্ঠানের কর্মকর্তারা এবং আন্তর্জাতিক ব্র্যান্ডসমূহের প্রতিনিধিরাও উপস্থিত ছিলেন। প্রকল্পের উদ্দেশ্য হচ্ছে- এই খাতকে আরও নিরাপদ তথা অগ্নি, বিদ্যুৎ ও কাঠামোগত সংস্কার সাধন, সবুজতর অর্থাৎ ইটিপি (বর্জ্য শোধনাগার), কঠিন বর্জ্য ব্যবস্থাপনা, বিদ্যুৎ ও পানিসম্পদের ব্যবহার হ্রাস করা এবং কর্মপরিবেশকে আরও স্বস্তিদায়ক এয়ার কন্ডিশনিং, ক্যান্টিন ও শৌচাগার নির্মাণ, বাচ্চাদের ডে-কেয়ার নির্মাণসহ ইত্যাদির জন্য আর্থিক এবং কারিগরি সহায়তা দেওয়া। এ প্রকল্পের আওতায় ঋণ পরিশোধের সময়সীমা হচ্ছে ৩ থেকে ৫ বছর পর্যন্ত। প্রত্যেক ঋণ গ্রহীতা সর্বোচ্চ ১ মিলিয়ন ইউরো সমমূল্যের ঋণ নিতে পারবেন। ঋণের যথাযথ ব্যবহারকরণকে উৎসাহিত করার লক্ষ্যে ঋণপ্রস্তাব অনুযায়ী যথাযথভাবে কার্যসম্পাদন সাপেক্ষে ঋণ গ্রহণকারী তৈরি পোশাকশিল্প প্রতিষ্ঠান এবং সংশ্লিষ্ট আর্থিক প্রতিষ্ঠানসমূহকে নির্দিষ্ট আনুপাতিক হারে আর্থিক প্রণোদনা দেওয়া হবে।  আমেরিকার ক্রেতাদের জোট  অ্যালায়েন্স, ইউরোপীয় ক্রেতাদের জোট অ্যাকর্ড ও জাতীয় ত্রিপক্ষীয় কর্মপরিকল্পনা (এনটিপিএ)- এ তিন সংস্থার পরামর্শ অনুসরণের জন্য বাংলাদেশের তৈরি পোশাকশিল্প প্রতিষ্ঠানগুলোকে সহজতর ঋণ দেওয়ার উদ্দেশে প্রকল্পটি সাজানো হয়েছে।

Export of jute products marks sharp rise

Exports of jute and jute goods have shown a sharp rise during the July–August period of FY 2019–20 compared to the same period during the last fiscal year thanks to jute goods diversification, government policy framework, availability of quality raw materials, and better crop management, according to industry insiders. A growing worldwide concern about climate change has helped to open up new opportunities for Bangladesh, they say. According to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), the export of jute sacks and bags fetched USD 15.49 million in FY2019–20 as against USD 13.82 million in FY2018–19. The growth is 12.08 per cent. HM Rezaul Karim, vice-president of the Bangladesh Jute Goods Exporters’ Association, told The Independent that the global demand for jute products was rising. Jute and jute goods is the third sector to cross the USD 1 billion-mark in export earnings after the readymade garments (RMG) and leather and leather products sectors. This trend also shows a reduction in the dependency on the apparel sector, said he. Rezaul Karim, who is also the owner of BICO Jute Fibres, said the demand for jute sacks was increasing in African countries such as Cameroon, Tanzania, Uganda, Ivory Coast, Kenya, Nigeria, Egypt, and Sudan. They use sacks for food grain packaging, he added. Besides, countries like Japan and South Korea use jute in car interiors, electronic casings and other surfaces because jute fibre is 100 per cent environment-friendly. It is bio-degradable and recyclable. When asked about the export amount, Rezaul Karim said that Bico Jute Fibres exported jute bags worth USD 20 million last year. “Last year, we exported 80 containers of jute products. Each container holds 16,000 jute sacks. So, 12,80,000 jute sacks were exported last year,” he explained. According to the BJMC, Bangladesh produced 9.2 million bales of jute in 2017, while it was 5 million bales in 2016. Around 240 types of products are being produced by the jute sector in Bangladesh. The average production of jute goods is 663,000 units per year. More than 40 million people are directly and indirectly involved in this sector. Talking of the challenges, Rezaul Karim said the BJMC fixed the export price of jute products, but private mills did not follow the rule and sold their products at a lower price. Twenty-two government jute mills are running at present. Though exporters do not get any government incentive, local manufacturers get 7.5 per cent cash incentive from the government. Rezaul Karim said the government implemented the ‘Mandatory Jute Packaging Act 2010’, which came to be enforced in 2014, in order to promote the country’s jute sector. As per the law, 17 agricultural commodities such as sugar, rice, maze, wheat, paddy and fertilisers must have jute packaging, but only rice is being delivered in jute bags, he added. Explaining the reasons behind the growth, Sajjad Hussain Sohel, managing director of Erans Trade International Ltd, told The Independent that Sudan and Turkey had produced bumper crops this year. So, these two countries, along with other African countries, were importing jute and jute goods from Bangladesh. Bangladesh has been producing quality jute yarn, leading to an increase in demand. The price, too, has increased from about USD 500 to USD 600 per tonne of yarn, he said. Jute yarn and twine fetched USD 84.81 million and recorded a growth of 1.68 per cent over FY2018–19, which was YSD 83.41 million, he added. Describing the advantages of jute bags, Sohel said that jute bags protected grains from insects and could be stored efficiently.

Bangladeshi products becoming popular in Saudi market: envoy

Bangladesh Ambassador to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia Golam Moshi said different Bangladeshi products, including pharmaceuticals, food and readymade garments (RMG), are becoming popular in Saudi Arabian market. “The demand of Bangladesh’s RMG products is increasing in Saudi Arabian market day by day. The economic relations between the two friendly nations are in upward trend,” he said while visiting the Bangladesh pavilion at the three-day “Pharmaceuticals, Medical Equipment and Food” fair at Riyadh in the KSA, said a press release on Tuesday.  The ‘Saudi Food and Drug Authority (SFDA)’ has organised the fair, which started on Monday. A total of 200 organisations from 21 countries, including Bangladesh, are participating in the fair. Golam Moshi hoped that Bangladeshi pharmaceuticals and food products will become more popular through participating in the fair. Among others, Minister of the Embassy SM Anisul Haque, Economic Minister Dr Mohammad Abul Hasan and First Secretary (Press) Mohammed Fokhrul Islam attended on the occasion.

Rise in Myanmar-India border trade in 2018-19

Border trade between Myanmar and India reached $194.6 million as of September 13 in this fiscal ending September—an increase of $57 million over the figure during the same period of the previous fiscal, according to the former’s commerce ministry. Myanmar’s exports to India were worth $171.3 million and its imports were worth $23.3 million. The two countries engage in border trade primarily through Tamu, Reed and Thantlang trade camps, while a major part of bilateral trade are delivered through ships. Myanmar mainly exports fruits and vegetable, fishery and forestry products to India, while importing medicines, electronic products, motorbikes, cotton yarn, non-alloy steel and other construction materials. Myanmar’s border trade with its four neighbours—China, India, Thailand and Bangladesh—totalled $9.6 billion—$6.7 billion in exports and $2.9 million in imports, a news wire reported.

$10b leather export possible by 2025

Bangladesh has the potential to earn as much as $10 billion from leather and leather goods exports by 2025 if the country can improve compliance, protect labour rights and obtain international certification within a short time, said an economist yesterday. The government has a target to export $5 billion worth of leather and leather goods by 2021 whereas last year’s receipts amounted to $1.2 billion. “However, it is possible to export leather and leather goods to the tune of $10 billion by 2025 as we have a lot of comparative advantages,” said M Abu Eusuf, professor of the Department of Development Studies at the University of Dhaka. Vietnam could export $20 billion worth of leather and leather goods, he said at a dialogue on the prospects and challenges in the tannery sector organised by Asia Foundation at The Daily Star Centre in Dhaka. Sadat S Shibli, director for programme at Asia Foundation, moderated the dialogue, which was attended by tanners, labour leaders, experts and leather goods exporters. Prof Eusuf suggested learning from the garment sector as Bangladesh has the highest number of green apparel manufacturing units. “The garment sector could earn more than $34 billion from exports. Then why can’t the leather and leather goods industry do the same?” The tanneries should produce goods at eco-friendly factories and obtain the Leather Working Group (LWG) certification, which is a must for better prices, he said. Because of poor compliance and working conditions in the leather sector as well as a lack of the LWG certification, Bangladeshi tanners have to sell tanned leather at 40 percent below international rates. However, the authority of the newly established Savar Tannery Industrial Estate (STIE) under the Bangladesh Small and Cottage Industries Corporation (BSCIC) is moving very slowly with regards to improving compliance. “Safety, health and transport facility for the workers are needed. We need to turn it into a social business from the business-only model. Different kinds of facilities should be adopted for this business,” Prof Eusuf said. He suggested setting up cold storages in different parts of the country so that rawhides can be preserved there for a long time, in a bid to ensure fair prices. Non-compliant companies should be made compliant. Md Shaheen Ahmed, chairman of Bangladesh Tanners Association, said the Chinese contractor installed substandard machinery at the Central Effluent Treatment Plant (CETP) at the STIE. The CETP will not work fully if the substandard machinery is not replaced, he said. He said a section of corrupt people installed the substandard machinery. For instance, the contractor was supposed to put in place 38-inch diameter pipes, but the corrupt people have installed 18-inch diameter pipes. This is one example of corruption in the construction of the CETP, he said, adding that there are many other instances of graft. Ahmed said as per conditions of the tender, the Chinese contractor was supposed to install Swiss turbine and European pumps at the CETP. Instead, low quality Chinese turbines and pumps were used. He said tanners use between 45,000 litres and 50,000 litres of water to wash a tonne of rawhides but international standard is 25,000 litres. “If tanners can wash them maintaining international standard, the CETP will not have to bear the overflow of waste water.” The CETP can treat 25,000 cubic metres of water per day but during peak seasons tanneries discharge between 36,000 and 38,000 cubic metres of water a day, which is beyond the capacity of the plant, said Mir Mohammad Shahinul Islam, a representative of the BSCIC. Kamruzzaman Majumder, an environment expert, asked whether the tanners are polluting the environment in the name of building a thriving industry as this sector has little contribution to the economy. The contribution of the leather sector is 0.35 percent to the gross domestic product and 3.54 percent to the national exports, he said. However, the five rivers that surround Dhaka are almost dead now because of the dumping of untreated chemical effluents into them, and they are placed among the top 10 polluted rivers in the world, he said.

Cambodia raises textile workers’ wages

Cambodia on Friday raised next year’s legal minimum wage for workers in its crucial textiles and footwear industry to US$190 (5,800 baht) per month, an increase of 4.4%, amid pressure from the European Union over its human rights and political record, officials said. The garment industry is Cambodia’s largest employer, generating $7 billion for the economy each year. It faces uncertainty after the EU in February began a process that could suspend the country’s special trade preferences. “The minimum wage for textile, garment and shoe workers for 2020 is set at $190 per month,” Labour Minister Ith Sam Heng said in a directive on Friday, adding that the new wage takes effect in January. Cambodia benefits from the EU’s “Everything But Arms” (EBA) trade programme, which allows the world’s least-developed countries to export most goods to the EU free of duties. Pav Sina, president of the Collective Union Movement of Workers, said unions would accept the new hike, although it fell short of their $195 demand, after a representative vote. “Even though this figure is not what we wanted as our position, it is positive, as Cambodia is in the midst of uncertainties of the trade preferences,” Sina said. “If our wage goes higher than countries in the region, we will also suffer,” Sina said. The EU, which accounts for more than one-third of Cambodia’s exports, including garments, footwear and bicycles, in February began an 18-month consideration that could lead to the EBA suspension. The re-examination of the European preferences began after the arrest of opposition leader Kem Sokha and the dissolution of his party, leading to longtime Prime Minister Hun Sen’s party’s holding all seats in parliament. Ken Loo, secretary general at the Garment Manufacturers Association of Cambodia, said employers accepted the new minimum wage but were concerned about rising pay. “We are always worried … we are always concerned about rising wages, but we also understand that we just have to go up in line with inflation and other factors,” Loo told Reuters on Friday.

Vietnam labour code change shrouded in uncertainty

Vietnam’s garment-makers have been worrying that a draft revised Labour Code will reduce their competitiveness – but four months after the draft was published there remains a strong chance it will never be enshrined into law. The draft, which was officially submitted to the National Assembly in May for an envisioned passage in November, outlines a reduction of working hours from 48 hours per week to 44 hours. According to the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association, this would reduce the industry’s export value by at least US$3bn per year, as businesses would struggle to recruit workers. The current regulation that sees businesses in the textile, garment and footwear sectors have an annual overtime cap of 300 hours, and guarantees overtime pay is the equivalent of at least 150% of the regular wage, remains in place under the draft. Notably, competing garment-manufacturing neighbours Laos, Cambodia, the Philippines and Malaysia still have 48-hour working weeks. A survey by just-style among Vietnamese-based industry observers shows a wide variation in predictions about the draft code’s future. The head of office of a Hanoi-based law firm described the draft’s fate as still being “largely unpredictable,” whereas a B?n Cát Town-based factory manager, who asked not to be named, said that it will not make it, given “there’s already too much negative feedback from all sides in Vietnam.” By contrast, Saponti Baroowa, the associate director of business intelligence at professional service firm Dezan Shira & Associates in Ho Chi Minh City, sees the proposed reduction of weekly working hours to 44 as likely to be approved. “Recently, the politburo of the central committee of the communist party of Vietnam also issued Resolution 50-NQ/TW, which noted, among other things, that the majority of FDI projects in the country are small-scale and concentrated in the labour-intensive sectors at the lower-end of the value chain,” Baroowa says. “In this context, the politburo has urged investment officials to become more selective in approving FDI applications and to give preference to projects that use high-technology and produce more value-added products, and the proposed change in the maximum permissible weekly work hours also seems to be in line with such measures to revamp the overall FDI policy.”

Indonesia launches safeguard probe on 3 textile items

Indonesia recently notified the World Trade Organisation’s (WTO) Committee on Safeguards that it initiated on September 18 three safeguard investigations—the first on fabrics; the second on yarn (other than sewing thread) of synthetic and artificial staple fibres; and the third on curtains (including drapes), interior blinds, bed valances and other furnishing items. “Those having substantial interest and wishing to be considered as interested parties in this investigation should submit written request within a period of 15 days in Indonesia from the date of initiation to the Investigating Authority,” WTO said on its website. A safeguard investigation seeks to determine whether increased imports of a product are causing, or is threatening to cause, serious injury to a domestic industry. During a safeguard investigation, importers, exporters and other interested parties may present evidence and views and respond to the presentations of other parties. A WTO member may take a safeguard action, i.e. restrict imports of a product temporarily, only if the increased imports of the product are found to be causing, or threatening to cause, serious injury.

Yarn consumption doubles in six years

Yarn consumption doubled over the last six years because of high demand from domestic garment manufacturers and high volume of garment export, according to industry insiders. In fiscal 2012-13, local knitters and weavers consumed 10 lakh to 11 lakh tonnes of yarn. Last year, the amount stood at 22 lakh tonnes, said Monsoor Ahmed, secretary to the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), the platform for the primary textile sector. Between fiscal 2012-13 and 2018-19, Bangladesh’s garment export increased nearly 10 percent. Last fiscal year, apparel shipment from Bangladesh was $34.13 billion, which was $21.51 billion in fiscal 2012-13, according to data from the Export Promotion Bureau. Despite a lot of internal and external shocks, garment shipment from Bangladesh maintained robust growth over the last seven years because of competitive prices and flawless supply of yarn and fabrics, which reduced lead time significantly, exporters said. Internal shocks include the two deadliest industrial accidents including Tazreen Fashions fire in November 2012 and Rana Plaza building collapse in April 2013. The sector also witnessed a setback in shipment because of elections in some major markets, financial crisis in some economies and Brexit. However, the sector could bounce back. On the other hand, there were some sunny sides for the local garment exporters like new export destinations such as Japan, India and China, where Bangladesh’s garment export has been growing at a faster rate in comparison to traditional markets like the EU, the US and Canada. The local garment exporters have been receiving a lot of work orders because of the US-China trade war that compelled many international retailers and brands to come to Bangladesh. The consumption trend of yarn has also changed during this period, especially over the last two years, as imports are increasing for availability of cheaper yarn in India and China, said BTMA’s Ahmed. “Previously, the import of yarn was not so high.” Subsequently, spinners have lowered their production capacity to 77 percent from 90 percent over the last six months. Currently, the yarn consumption trend in Bangladesh is a 50-50 mix of imports and local ones. “So the country’s main export earner is depending more on imported raw materials, which is a worry for us. If the situation continues, we will be in trouble,” Ahmed said. Lower production of yarn by local spinners means cotton consumption by Bangladesh also declined. Last fiscal year, Bangladesh imported nearly 7.7 million bales of cotton, which was 8.2 million bales in fiscal 2017-18. A Matin Chowdhury, managing director of Malek Spinning Mills, a leading spinner, mentioned three specific reasons for the losing competitiveness by local spinners to the cheap imported yarn. They are: 50 percent hike in the gas price, 2 percent devaluation of local currency against the greenback and wage hike in the garment sector that put the manufacturers in a tight spot. “Our stockpiling of yarn is increasing every day,” Chowdhury told The Daily Star by phone. The highest consumer of yarn is the knitwear sector in Bangladesh as the local 450 spinners can supply more than 80 percent of the raw materials needed by the manufacturers and exporters. The local knitwear sector consumes more than 16 lakh tonnes of yarn in a year, the spinners said. 

RMG BANGLADESH NEWS