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Bangladesh, Uzbekistan can offer much to each other: FBCCI President

Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FBCCI) President Md. Jashim Uddin on Thursday said that both Bangladesh and Uzbekistan can offer much to each other in terms of economic collaboration. 
“Both the countries can be benefited by exploring their potential sectors,” he told a discussion meeting with the Uzbekistan delegation.

Deputy Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Uzbekistan Bakhrom Aloev led the delegation held at the FBCCI Icon in the capital today, said a press release.

Terming Uzbekistan as an important friend and growth partner, the FBCCI president said both the countries have gained momentum with some high-level visits and discussions on the future of the two country’s partnership.

“Trade and economic cooperation have been the key focuses of Dhaka-Tashkent relations. Both the countries have identified potential sectors for collaboration, including textiles, pharmaceuticals, agriculture, and information technology,” he added.

Jashim mentioned that the bilateral trade reached $35.12 million in FY2022 which is far below the untapped potential. “I hope through this visit and meeting, we can work together to explore mutually beneficial investment and trade opportunities,”

He said that Bangladesh serves as the regional gateway of South Asia and ASEAN countries and has very close connectivity with India and China, the two giants of Asia.

“The government is developing some 100 economic zones, 30 IT parks, and tourism parks with modern infrastructure. Uzbekistan can utilize this opportunity to start a business here in Bangladesh,” he mentioned.

The FBCCI President said that Bangladesh have competitive strengths in apparel, leather goods, pharmaceuticals, frozen seafood, plastic products, ceramics, jute, and leather products, ICT, FMCG, home appliances and others are leading the way for business diversification.

“Uzbek can import pharmaceutical products and generic drugs from Bangladesh as we are producing high-quality medicines and drugs and exporting them to more than 100 countries in the world,” he added.

Uzbek Deputy Minister Bakhrom Aloev said, “Bangladesh and Uzbekistan have many opportunities. It’s time to elaborate the relation between the two great countries. Right now, connectivity is one of the issues, but we’re working on it and we’re looking forward in strengthening the bilateral trade between the two countries”.

He also invited the FBCCI to pay a visit to Uzbekistan and explore the business potential.

FBCCI vice president Md. Amin Helaly said that the interactions with the private sector have helped Bangladesh and Uzbekistan to develop a future trade relationship by encouraging mutual investment and addressing trade barriers for the greater benefit of the two nations.

FBCCI vice president Md. Habib Ullah Dawn, directors, and other business leaders were present at the program.
BSS/GY

বিআইডিএস গবেষণায় দেখা গেছে, মূল খাতে দুর্বল উৎপাদনশীলতার পেছনে দক্ষতার ফাঁক

বাংলাদেশ ইনস্টিটিউট অফ ডেভেলপমেন্ট স্টাডিজ (বিআইডিএস) দ্বারা পরিচালিত বেশ কয়েকটি গবেষণায় শ্রম-প্রণোদনামূলক শিল্প যেমন তৈরি পোশাক (আরএমজি), হালকা প্রকৌশল এবং ইলেকট্রনিক্স, চামড়া ও পাদুকা এবং কৃষি-খাদ্য শিল্পে কর্মীদের দক্ষতার সেটে যথেষ্ট ব্যবধান রয়েছে। প্রক্রিয়াকরণ

সরকারের স্কিল ফর এমপ্লয়মেন্ট ইনভেস্টমেন্ট প্রোগ্রাম (Seip) এর অধীনে 2021 থেকে 2022 সালের মধ্যে পরিচালিত গবেষণাটি এই সেক্টরে 45% থেকে 70% পর্যন্ত দক্ষতার ফাঁক এবং অমিল নির্দেশ করে।

গবেষণায় দেখা গেছে যে এই দক্ষতার ব্যবধানের ফলে কারখানায় কম উৎপাদনশীলতা এবং ব্যবস্থাপনা পর্যায়ে বিদেশী কর্মী নিয়োগের ফলে বৈদেশিক মুদ্রার ক্ষতি হয়।

উদাহরণস্বরূপ, আরএমজি সেক্টরের উপর দৃষ্টি নিবদ্ধ করা একটি সমীক্ষায় দেখা গেছে যে 6.5% বোনা শিল্প এবং 2.99% বুনা শিল্প দক্ষতার ব্যবধান মেটাতে দক্ষ বিদেশী কর্মী নিয়োগের প্রয়োজনীয়তা প্রকাশ করেছে, বিশেষ করে ব্যবস্থাপক পর্যায়ে।

সেপ-এর ডেপুটি এক্সিকিউটিভ প্রজেক্ট ডিরেক্টর সানোয়ার জাহান ভূঁইয়া বলেন, “এটি বলা হয় যে ব্যবস্থাপনা পদে দক্ষ নেতৃত্বের অভাবের কারণে প্রায় 50,000 বিদেশী বর্তমানে বাংলাদেশে কাজ করছে, যার ফলে বছরে 5-6 বিলিয়ন ডলার ক্ষতি হচ্ছে। তবে প্রকৃত সংখ্যা অনেক বেশি হবে।”

বৃহস্পতিবার শহরের একটি হোটেলে দুই দিনব্যাপী “বিআইডিএস রিসার্চ অ্যালম্যানাক 2023”-এর শেষ দিনে “দক্ষতা ও শ্রম বাজারের ফলাফল” শীর্ষক এক অধিবেশনে ভাষণ দেওয়ার সময় তিনি আরও বলেন, সরকার দক্ষ জনশক্তি তৈরিতে শিল্প ও একাডেমিয়ার মধ্যে কার্যকর সহযোগিতা চায়। , যোগ করে, “আমরা মধ্য-স্তরের নির্বাহীদের বিকাশের জন্য চারটি বিশ্ববিদ্যালয়ে প্রোগ্রামটি চালিয়ে যাচ্ছি। তবে এর জন্য বিশাল বিনিয়োগ প্রয়োজন।”

হালকা প্রকৌশল এবং ইলেকট্রনিক্স সেক্টরের উপর দৃষ্টি নিবদ্ধ করা আরেকটি গবেষণায় দেখা গেছে যে প্রায় তিন-চতুর্থাংশ কর্মী তাদের অধ্যয়নের ক্ষেত্র এবং তাদের চাকরির মধ্যে অমিলের সম্মুখীন হন।

এবং অ-শিক্ষা খাতে 60% অমিলের দ্বারা আরও গুরুতর, সমীক্ষা বলছে। এর মানে হল যে ডিগ্রীতে কর্মীদের শিক্ষার স্তর নীচে তাদের বর্তমান চাকরির জন্য প্রয়োজনীয়দের সাথে মেলে।

123টি লাইট ইঞ্জিনিয়ারিং ফার্ম এবং 100টি ইলেকট্রনিক্স ফার্মের মধ্যে পরিচালিত সমীক্ষায় বলা হয়েছে যে যদি শ্রমিকদের শিক্ষার স্তর নিয়োগকর্তাদের দ্বারা কাঙ্ক্ষিত স্তরের নীচে থাকে তবে এটি সংস্থাগুলির প্রতি কর্মী আউটপুটের সাথে নেতিবাচকভাবে জড়িত।

ঢাকা বিশ্ববিদ্যালয়ের ডেভেলপমেন্ট স্টাডিজের সহযোগী অধ্যাপক শুভাশীষ বড়ুয়া বলেন, “উন্নত দেশের শ্রমিকরা দক্ষতার ক্ষেত্রে উন্নয়নশীল দেশের তুলনায় বেশি উৎপাদনশীল। বাংলাদেশের ক্ষেত্রে, শৈশব থেকে পুষ্টির অভাব দীর্ঘমেয়াদে জ্ঞানীয় এবং দক্ষতা বিকাশকে প্রভাবিত করে।”

“বেতন তাদের দীর্ঘমেয়াদে কাজ রাখার জন্য যথেষ্ট ভাল নয়। এবং তারা এমন একটি পরিবারের পরিবেশে বাস করে না যা তাদের জন্য কর্মক্ষেত্রে প্রচুর পরিমাণে শক্তি উৎপন্ন করার জন্য খুব অনুকূল,” তিনি যোগ করেছেন।

তিনি বলেন, সরকারকে শুধু কারখানার শ্রমিকদের জন্য বৃহৎ আকারের আবাসন অবকাঠামো তৈরি করলেই হবে না, পাশাপাশি স্বাস্থ্য বীমা এবং বিনামূল্যে স্বাস্থ্যসেবা তৈরি করা উচিত যাতে তারা এই চাকরিটিকে দীর্ঘমেয়াদী পেশা হিসেবে গ্রহণ করে।

আরএমজি শিল্প 48% থেকে 69% দক্ষতার ব্যবধান নিয়ে লড়াই করছে

নিয়োগকর্তাদের মূল্যায়ন অনুসারে, বুনন শিল্প বর্তমানে 68.79% দক্ষতার ব্যবধানের মুখোমুখি, যেখানে বোনা শিল্পের 47.83% এর সামান্য কম ব্যবধান রয়েছে।

119টি এন্টারপ্রাইজের মোট 476 জন কর্মী সাক্ষাৎকার নেওয়া হয়েছিল, এবং তাদের দক্ষতার ব্যবধান নিয়োগকর্তাদের দ্বারা তাদের দক্ষতার স্তরের উপর ভিত্তি করে মূল্যায়ন করা হয়েছিল।

বিভিন্ন শ্রেণীর কর্মীদের মধ্যে, সাহায্যকারী, বেশিরভাগ সেলাই মেশিন অপারেটর, গুণমান পরিদর্শক এবং বুনন শিল্পে কিছু ফিনিশিং অপারেটর অন্যদের তুলনায় উচ্চ দক্ষতার ব্যবধান প্রদর্শন করে।

অন্যদিকে, ব্যবস্থাপনা কর্মচারী, মান নিয়ন্ত্রক এবং কিছু ফিনিশিং অপারেটর বোনা শিল্পে কর্মীদের মধ্যে সামগ্রিক দক্ষতার ব্যবধানের একটি বড় অংশে অবদান রাখে।

কৃষি-খাদ্য প্রক্রিয়াকরণ খাতে দক্ষতার ব্যবধান কমানোর জন্য প্রশিক্ষণ কার্যক্রম বৃদ্ধির চাবিকাঠি

অন্য একটি সমীক্ষা অনুসারে, কৃষি-খাদ্য প্রক্রিয়াকরণ খাত 47% দক্ষতার ব্যবধানের সম্মুখীন হচ্ছে, প্রাথমিকভাবে খাদ্য নিরাপত্তা, স্যানিটেশন এবং খাদ্য পরীক্ষা পদ্ধতিতে বিশেষ প্রশিক্ষণ এবং জ্ঞানের অভাবের কারণে।

গবেষণায় শিক্ষাগত ডিগ্রীর মাধ্যমে অর্জিত অপর্যাপ্ত দক্ষতাগুলিও এই ব্যবধানে অবদান রাখার কারণ হিসেবে তুলে ধরা হয়েছে।

সেক্টরের উদ্যোগগুলি জোর দিয়েছে যে এই ফাঁকগুলি কমানোর জন্য প্রশিক্ষণ কার্যক্রম বাড়ানোই প্রাথমিক সমাধান।

Skills gaps behind poor productivity in key sectors, BIDS studies find

Several studies conducted by the Bangladesh Institute of Development Studies (BIDS) have revealed a substantial gap in the skill sets of workers in labour-incentive industries such as readymade garments (RMG), light engineering and electronics, leather and footwear, and agro-food processing. 

The research, conducted between 2021 and 2022 under the government’s Skills for Employment Investment Programme (Seip), indicates skill gaps and mismatches ranging from 45% to 70% in these sectors.

The studies highlight that these skill gaps result in low productivity in factories and the hiring of foreign workers at managerial levels, leading to a loss of foreign currency. 

For example, a study focused on the RMG sector found that 6.5% of woven industries and 2.99% of knit industries expressed the need to hire skilled foreign workers to address the skill gap, particularly at the managerial level. 

Sanwar Jahan Bhuiyan, deputy executive project director of Seip, said, “It is said that around 50,000 foreigners are currently working in Bangladesh due to the lack of skilled leadership in managerial positions, resulting in an annual loss of $5-6 billion. But the actual numbers will be much higher.”

While addressing a session titled “Skill and labour market outcomes” on the last day of the two-day “BIDS Research Almanac 2023” on Thursday at a city hotel, he also said the government wants effective collaboration between industry and academia to create skilled manpower, adding, “We are continuing the programme in four universities to develop mid-level executives. But this requires a huge investment.”

Another study focused on the light engineering and electronics sector revealed that approximately three-fourths of workers face a mismatch between their field of study and their job. 

And the under-education is more severe in the sectors by 60% mismatch, says the study. This means that the degree to which workers’ education levels are below matches those required for their current jobs.

The study conducted among 123 light engineering firms and 100 electronics firms said that if the workers’ level of education is below the desired level by the employers, it is negatively associated with the output per worker of the firms. 

Subhasish Barua, associate professor of development studies at Dhaka University, said, “Workers in developed countries are more productive than in developing countries as skill matters. In respect of Bangladesh, a lack of nutrition from childhood affects cognitive and skills development in the long run.” 

“The salaries are not good enough to keep them working in the long term. And they do not live in a household environment which is very much conducive for them to generate a large amount of energy in the workplace,” he added.  

He said that the government should not only create large-scale housing infrastructure for the factory workers as well as creating health insurance and free health services for all the workers so that they take this job as a long-term occupation.

RMG industry struggles with 48% to 69% skill gaps

According to employers’ assessments, the knitting industry currently faces a skill gap of 68.79%, whereas the woven industry has a slightly lower gap of 47.83%.

A total of 476 workers from 119 enterprises were interviewed, and their skill gaps were evaluated by employers based on their proficiency levels.

Among the different categories of workers, helpers, most sewing machine operators, quality inspectors, and some finishing operators in the knitting industry exhibit a higher skill gap compared to others.

On the other hand, management employees, quality controllers, and some finishing operators contribute to a larger share of the overall skill gap among employees in the woven industry.

Increasing training activities key to minimising skill gaps in agro-food processing sector

According to another study, the agro-food processing sector is facing a 47% skill gap, primarily due to the lack of specialised training and knowledge in food safety, sanitation, and food testing procedures. 

The study also highlights the inadequate skills acquired through educational degrees as a contributing factor to this gap.

Enterprises in the sector have emphasised that increasing training activities is the primary solution to minimise these gaps.
 

Apparel makers in cyclone-hit Bangladesh consider rare, expensive airlifts for exports

Apparel makers in Bangladesh are considering rare bulk exports by air to Europe and the United States, as they race to meet deadlines and avoid cancellations after a cyclone delayed shipments, caused power cuts and disrupted production.

The crunch could disrupt summer clothes supplies for retailers such as Walmart, Gap Inc, H&M, VF Corp, Zara and American Eagle Outfitters, some of Bangladesh’s largest export customers.

Cyclone Mocha, one of the strongest storms to hit the region in years, made landfall in neighbouring Myanmar over the weekend, but left a trail of destruction that also has delayed businesses’ return to normal in Bangladesh.

Apparel shipments account for more than 80% of the country’s exports and are especially crucial now after its dollar reserves plunged nearly a third in the 12 months to end-April, hitting a seven-year low.

“We have to airlift goods now as we’re missing the shipping deadline,” said Mohammad Hatem, executive president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA). “We don’t want to suffer losses or lose customers.”

Bangladesh, the world’s second-largest garment exporter, has already been hit by weakening global demand, with exports falling in both March and April.

Buyers generally bear the cost of shipping. However, when goods are airlifted, all transportation-related costs are borne by the manufacturers, hurting their already thinning margins, Hatem said.

Apparel makers, who directly and indirectly employ millions of Bangladeshis, export ready-made clothes to regions including Europe, North America, Japan and Australia. Air freight typically costs $8 to $10 per kg, according to industry players.

A large European buyer has asked one garment manufacturer to reduce delivered prices by 5% to account for the delay, an email reviewed by Reuters showed. Another garment owner who supplies H&M said some of his shipments had been delayed.

Power cuts in the last two months, first due to a scorching heatwave, and then the cyclone, have put more stress on apparel companies. Many factories are now running on power generators fuelled by expensive diesel.

“If this goes on, it’ll be difficult to survive,” said Mohammed Nasir, owner of a garment factory in the Gazipur industrial hub, north of Dhaka.

Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, vice-president at the industry body BKMEA, said if goods cannot be delivered on time buyers either seek heavy discounts or threaten to cancel orders.

“Now there are also chances of missing orders for the next season, as we are struggling to provide samples on time due to the regular power cuts,” Ehsan said.

চার ক্ষেত্রে দক্ষতার ঘাটতি নিয়ে চলছে তৈরি পোশাক কারখানা

তৈরি পোশাক কারখানায় মোটাদাগে চারটি জায়গায় কর্মীদের মধ্যে দক্ষতার ঘাটতি আছে। সেগুলো হলো, সেলাই মেশিন অপারেটর, মান পরিদর্শক ও নিয়ন্ত্রক, প্রিন্টিং মেশিন অপারেটর ও এমব্রয়ডারি মেশিন অপারেটর। এই চার শ্রেণিতে ৫০ থেকে ৭৫ শতাংশের মতো দক্ষতার ঘাটতি আছে।

আজ বাংলাদেশ উন্নয়ন গবেষণা প্রতিষ্ঠান (বিআইডিএস) আয়োজিত দুই দিনব্যাপী গবেষণা সম্মেলনের সকালের প্রথম অধিবেশনে তৈরি পোশাক খাতের দক্ষতার ঘাটতি নিয়ে পরিচালিত গবেষণার ওপর উপস্থাপনায় এ কথা বলা হয়। গবেষণায় পাওয়া তথ্য উপস্থাপনা করেন বিআইডিএস গবেষক রিজওয়ানা ইসলাম।

রিজওয়ানা ইসলাম ১১৯টি নিট ও ওভেন কারখানার ওপর গবেষণাটি করেছেন।
গবেষণায় বলা হয়েছে, তৈরি পোশাক খাতে উৎপাদন পর্যায়ে তুলনামূলক দক্ষতার ঘাটতি কম, কিন্তু ব্যবস্থাপক পর্যায়ে ঘাটতি বেশি। পোশাক কারখানামালিকেরা যে ধরনের কর্মী চান, সেই ধরনের লোক পাওয়া যায় না। গবেষণায় আরও পাওয়া গেছে, পোশাক খাতে কর্ম খালি হলে এক সপ্তাহের মধ্যে তিন–চতুর্থাংশ কারখানায় তা পূরণ হয়ে যায়, কিন্তু দক্ষ কর্মী পাওয়া কঠিন।

সকালের অধিবেশনে বিভিন্ন খাতে দক্ষতার ঘাটতি নিয়ে আলোচনা হয়। গুলশানের এক হোটেলে অনুষ্ঠিত সেই অধিবেশনে সভাপতির দায়িত্ব পালন করেন স্কিল ফর এমপ্লয়মেন্ট ইনভেস্টমেন্ট কর্মসূচির উপনির্বাহী প্রকল্প পরিচালক সানোয়ার জাহান চৌধুরী।

বিশেষ আলোচক হিসেবে ঢাকা বিশ্ববিদ্যালয়ের উন্নয়ন অধ্যয়ন বিভাগের অধ্যাপক শুভাশীষ বড়ুয়া বলেন, পোশাকসহ বিভিন্ন খাতে যে মজুরি দেওয়া হয়, তা সংসার চালানোর জন্য পর্যাপ্ত নয়। তাই একজন কর্মী দীর্ঘদিন এক প্রতিষ্ঠানে থাকেন না। মজুরি বাড়ানোর পাশাপাশি যদি স্বাস্থ্যসেবা ও স্বাস্থ্যবিমা সুবিধা দেওয়া যেত, তাহলে কর্মীরা দীর্ঘদিন একই প্রতিষ্ঠানে থাকতেন। তিনি কর্মীদের দক্ষতা বৃদ্ধির ওপর জোর দেন।

অনুষ্ঠানের আরেক আলোচক ঢাকা বিশ্ববিদ্যালয়ের অর্থনীতি বিভাগের অধ্যাপক সায়েমা হক বলেন, বাজেটে যখন বিভিন্ন খাতে প্রণোদনা দেওয়া হয়, তখন প্রণোদনা পাওয়ার শর্ত হিসেবে দক্ষতা উন্নয়নের বিষয়টি জুড়ে দিলে ভালো ফল পাওয়া যাবে। এ ছাড়া চাহিদা অনুযায়ী গুণগত মানসম্পন্ন শিক্ষা দক্ষতার ঘাটতি পূরণে বড় সহায়ক হিসেবে কাজ করতে পারে।

আজ সকালের অধিবেশনে আরও তিনটি গবেষণার ওপর উপস্থাপনা করা হয়। এর একটি হলো হালকা প্রকৌশল ও ইলেকট্রনিক খাত। সেখানে বলা হয়েছে, এই দুই ধরনের শিল্পে কর্মরত চার ভাগের তিন ভাগ শ্রমিকের কাজের সঙ্গে পড়াশোনার মিল নেই। প্রায় ৭৬ শতাংশ শ্রমিকের এই অবস্থা। আর ৭৪ শতাংশ শ্রমিকের নির্দিষ্ট ডিগ্রি নেই।

হালকা প্রকৌশল ও ইলেকট্রনিক—এই দুই খাতের ওপর গবেষণা করেন বিআইডিএস গবেষক কাজী ইকবাল ও মারুফ আহমেদ। কাজী ইকবাল এই বিষয়ে বলেন, দক্ষতার অভাব আছে এই খাতে, ঘাটতি পূরণে প্রকৃত শিক্ষায় নজর দিতে হবে।

বিআইডিএসের আরেক গবেষক হারুনুর রশিদ চামড়া ও পাদুকা খাত নিয়ে একটি গবেষণা উপস্থাপনা করেন। তাতে তিনি বলেন, এই খাতের ৫০ শতাংশের বেশি কর্মী জানিয়েছেন, তাঁরা দক্ষতার অভাব বোধ করেন। একজন কর্মীকে এই খাতে কিছুটা দক্ষ করে প্রস্তুত করতে কমপক্ষে এক মাস সময় লাগে। এই খাতের নতুন প্রযুক্তির সঙ্গে খাপ খাওয়াতে শ্রমিকদের দক্ষতার প্রয়োজন।

অন্যদিকে কৃষি প্রক্রিয়াজাতকরণ খাত নিয়ে গবেষণার তথ্য উপস্থাপন করেন বিআইডিএসের গবেষক কাশফি রায়ান। তিনি বলেন, এই খাতের ৪৭ শতাংশ শ্রমিকের দক্ষতার ঘাটতি আছে। কৃষি প্রক্রিয়াজাতকরণ খাতে সরকারি বিশ্ববিদ্যালয়ের ডিগ্রিধারীরা উচ্চপদে নিয়োগ পান। বেসরকারি বিশ্ববিদ্যালয়ের ডিগ্রিধারীদের এ ক্ষেত্রে অংশগ্রহণ কম। মধ্যম পর্যায়ে চাকরি পান জাতীয় বিশ্ববিদ্যালয়ের ডিগ্রিধারীরা।

কাশফি রায়ান আরও বলেন, খাদ্য প্রক্রিয়াজাতকরণের বিষয়ে বিশ্ববিদ্যালয় পর্যায়ে কারিগরি শিক্ষার প্রয়োজন। এই খাতের বিপুল সম্ভাবনা রয়েছে বলে মত দেন এই গবেষক।

Despite investing in sustainable denim, manufacturers yet to receive fair price

Manufacturers having to bear costs associated with lowering water and carbon emissions

According to industry sources, the country’s denim manufacturers are still not getting a fair price from its global buyers, despite investing heavily in sustainable denim manufacturing.

They have currently reduced the amount of water used for washing per kg of denim to 10 litres from 360 litres. 

They were speaking on Monday at the 14th edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo 2023 and the expo’s sideline in the capital. 

They also stated that climate change is a concern for everyone, but the manufacturers are having to bear the costs associated with lowering water and carbon emissions.

Denim manufacturers expect that the situation will change if they will be able to create awareness among consumers across the world.

Talking to Dhaka Tribune, Mostafiz Uddin, founder of the Bangladesh Denim Expo said that climate change is a global crisis and sustainable apparel’s expense should be shared-based among the manufacturers, brands and retailers.

“But still all expenses are being borne by the manufacturers. The manufacturers should increase the price to sustain sustainable apparel, to save the world,” he added. 

They took the initiative because consumers in the western world also want that the garment they wear is made to comply with sustainable practices as well as use less water in washing and less power consumption.

At the sideline of the event, Tanvir Hossain, project manager of Spanish brand Jeanologia, said many of the local denim producers in Bangladesh are using nine liters of water for washing a pair of jeans using ozone and laser technologies.

However, the majority of the denim fabrics producers are using between 15 litres and 30 litres of water for washing the denim fabrics in Bangladesh, he added. 

Jeanologia supplied laser technology to more than 800 factories in Bangladesh.

Previously the millers were not aware of the overuse of water in Bangladesh but now they are aware and using less water and fewer chemicals for washing the denim, he added.

Hossain also said the high inflation in Europe because of the ongoing Russia-Ukraine war has been affecting business as the sales of machinery slowed down.

Brant Tong, sales manager of XDD Textile from Vietnam said business is slow now because of inflation. 

Business might pick up after six months as the global crisis may come down in the major export destinations in the western world.

“We are using less water for dyeing and washing the denim fabrics with the use of modern technologies,” he said.

Alice Tonello, managing director of Tonello of Italy also said the garment business is down in Europe now because of high inflation from the Russia-Ukraine war.

Consumers have changed a lot after the Covid-19 pandemic as now they like to spend more on tourism and other experiences rather than spending more money on garment items.

Tonello, who mainly supplies the technologies of washing and dyeing, also said the Bangladeshi millers reduced water consumption significantly with the use of technologies.

Denim manufacturers said though they have yet to get better prices despite huge investments to set up high-technology machinery to reduce carbon and water consumption, they will continue the initiatives, whether brands increase prices or not. 

They believed that as western consumers are highly concerned about climate change, the move will bring something good after a certain period. 

Azizur R Chowdhury, managing director of JM Fabrics, said: “We are manufacturing sustainable apparel but still the consumers are not informed about it. That’s why we need to take some steps such as road shows in the export destination countries, exhibitions, etc.”

When we receive the ‘Sustainable apparel manufacturer’ tag, brands are bound to pay more thanks to customers’ pressure.”

At the panel discussion, Pacific Jeans Director Sayed Mohammad Tahmir said: “It is true that we are not getting better prices even after a huge transformation, the move will bring something good one day. We are waiting for the time and investing in sustainable apparel.” 

The 14th edition of the Denim Expo has been going on at the ICCB since Monday, organized by Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE).

Over 90 local and international exhibitors are attending the event to display fabrics, garments, threads, machinery, finishing equipment and accessories.

BGMEA, Commerce Ministry sign MoU to train local fashion designers in high-value garments

The Ministry of Commerce of the Government of Bangladesh and the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) have signed a memorandum of understanding (MoU) to create a pool of skilled fashion professionals and designers who will work on developing high-value fashionable garments using homegrown fabrics and materials.   

The training initiative is a part of the High End Fashion Project (Linking Bangladesh’s Heritage Material to the International Export Market) under EIF Export Diversification & Competitiveness Development Project (TIER 2). 

As per the understanding, Bangladeshi textile professionals including designers, pattern markers, merchandisers, weavers of indigenous textile materials and fashion and textile students will be provided with training in the development and designing of high-end fashionable garments blending local culture and heritage. 

The training will be conducted under the Centre of Innovation, Efficiency and Occupational Safety and Health (CIEOSH) of BGMEA where a total of 160 professionals will receive intensive training on Bangladesh’s opportunity in global high end fashion space, collection development, sustainability issues, etc. 

The training sessions will be conducted by renowned fashion designer Anadil Johnson, founder of Chicago based fashion brand Neval. 

Neela Hosna Ara, director, BGMEA, and Mohammad IleasMia, deputy secretary, and Project Director, Export Diversification and Diversification Project (Tier- 2), WTO wing, Ministry of Commerce, Bangladesh signed the MoU on behalf of the respective sides. 

David Austin, regional portfolio manager, United Nations Office for Project Services, and Raphaelle Nicole Danielle Quintard, Portfolio Management Officer, EIF Executive Secretariat WTO, were also present at MoU signing ceremony held at BGMEA Complex in Uttara, Dhaka on May 16.

The WTO Cell of the Commerce Ministry has been implementing the project with a view to transforming Bangladeshi heritage into high-end fashion products and create a market for them internationally.

The project also aims to explore the opportunity of exporting garments linking the rich culture and heritage of Bangladesh with fashion. 

It will also create an opportunity to present Bangladesh’s own culture and textile heritage internationally through fashionable garments made from traditional textiles and fabrics like Jamdani, Khadi, Silk and Monipuri. 

The project will help to build the capacity of the local weavers to enable them to use their craftsmanship to design high-value apparels maintaining international quality. Thus it will open doors to create employment opportunities for Bangladeshi weavers, while saving the indigenous industry.  

Besides, it will significantly help to diversify products within RMG, add higher values and pursue our vision to reach 100 billion dollars export by 2030.

Tougher value addition rules for an RMG segment mulled

Bangladesh became home to the highest number of green garment factories in the world with 183 USGBC LEED-certified factories. Photo: Mumit M

  • FY22 RMG exports were $42.6B; CMT’s share ranges from 15% to 20%
  • Minimum 20% value addition required for incentives
  • Exporters argue present value addition calculation is transparent and simple
  • Proposed import duty on materials for star and luxury hotels to increase to 110% after decade-long 10% benefit
  • Duty benefits granted on 40 materials

Highlights: 


The government has planned to implement stricter regulations regarding the eligibility criteria for cash incentives provided to garment exporters who rely on materials supplied by their buyers, according to officials of the Bangladesh Bank.

In another move, the duty concession on the import of materials for luxury hotels is likely to be withdrawn in the coming budget, said finance ministry officials.

Apparel manufacturers who receive fabrics and other materials from buyers and export finished products after cutting, making, and trimming (CMT), will now be subject to a revised calculation of their value addition. To qualify for cash incentives, the value addition must amount to at least 20%.

Currently, exporters in this sector determine the value addition by subtracting the cost of production, including purchases from local markets and profit margins, from the export proceeds except for freight costs. 

But under the proposed new rules, the value addition rate will be calculated on the basis of the price of goods purchased from the local market and CMT materials’ value.

Bangladeshi exporters buy various items such as cartons, poly, printing and labels from local markets. Exporters get incentives only when they add at least 20% value including labour wages and profits.

According to exporters, 15-20% of the total exports of the readymade garment sector are on CMT basis. In the fiscal 2021-22, readymade garments exports were worth $42.6 billion. In the first 10 months of the current financial year, Bangladesh exported garments worth $38.5 billion.

Syed Nazrul Islam, first vice president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, told The Business Standard that it is always clear how much value is being added to the products exported on CMT basis. Because foreign buyers provide free materials including clothes. 

“Any calculation should be simple so that exporters can easily present their financial details to the authorities concerned for incentives. Any procedure which complicates the proceedings is not desirable,” he added.

Mohammad Hatem, executive president of Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association, said, “If the accounting method is modern, advanced and simple, it will definitely be good for businesses. But it is not right to go for any method, which creates complications.”

Withdrawing duty concession for luxury hotels 

The National Board of Revenue (NBR) has given major duty concessions on the import of essential materials used in the construction of hotels to develop the country’s tourism industry. That will end as the tax regime is withdrawing this benefit in the upcoming budget.

According to sources in the finance ministry, on the suggestions from the International Monetary Fund, the government is going to withdraw subsidies and concessional benefits of various sectors. This time, the opportunity to import capital machinery at concessional facilities for the construction of posh hotels is being withdrawn.

The sector insiders believe the move will create a fresh challenge for the tourism and hospitality sectors. 

According to sources in the finance ministry, the import duty was fixed at 10% for the construction of luxury hotels through statutory regulatory orders (SROs) issued by the National Board of Revenue (NBR). The business enjoyed this benefit for about ten years. At present, import duty of up to 110% is going to be levied on various goods under various HS codes as before.

At least 40 materials were provided with concessional duty benefits, starting from decoration or interior decoration of hotels, cooking, fire extinguishing equipment, furniture, lighting and electronics.

According to sources in the finance ministry, for the purpose of developing the tourism sector, there was a duty concession on the import of materials used in hotel construction for a long time. But at present the government feels that the sector is sufficiently developed and is set to move forward without government policy support. 

Continuation of concessions in a sector in the long run makes them dependent rather than self-reliant. Then they constantly want to get more benefits. On the other hand, the government is deprived of revenue, they said, adding that it will not have any effect here.

Md Sameer Sattar, president of the Dhaka Chamber of Commerce & Industry (DCCI) said the government is set on revenue collection which may affect the consumer of the industry.

Ahsan H Mansur, executive director at Policy Research Institute, said the hotel sector is already overbuilt in Bangladesh like Thailand thanks to such a policy.

“The sector entrepreneurs are also doing well. Now is the time to take a break. If needed, the government may consider in future,” he added.

The eminent economist also advises that the government may offer reduced duty on import of various foods, which will help to attract visitors home and abroad to Bangladesh.

A senior official of the Bangladesh Tourism Board, who did not want to be named, said considering rising prices of construction materials owing to the global economic volatility and the strong dollar, if such a decision is implemented, the progress of this sector will be hampered.

According to the tourism board, more than five lakh foreigners visited the country in 2017. The arrivals of foreign nationals were over 5.52 lakh in 2018. 

BGMEA president emphasises promoting Bangladesh through high-value Muslin products

BGMEA President Faruque Hassan said developing high-value garments using homegrown fabrics like Muslin will not only help Bangladesh to promote its cultural heritage on the global stage but also would create opportunities for the country’s apparel export sector. 

He stressed on the need for concerted efforts of relevant stakeholders including scientists, academics, textile engineers, artisans, fashion designers, entrepreneurs to revive the tradition of muslin fabrics and weaving techniques and commercialize the muslin production. 

He made the remarks while addressing a seminar on ‘Reviving traditional Bangladeshi muslin and weaving techniques and prospects of investment in the sector’ organised by Bangladesh Handloom Board, the Ministry of Textiles and Jute in Dhaka on 16 May. 

Honorable Textiles and Jute Minister Golam Dastagir Gazi (Birpatik) attended the seminar as chief guest while Dr Shamsul Alam, state minister, Ministry of Planning, Masud Bin Momen, foreign secretary of Bangladesh, Lokman Hossain Miah, executive chairman of Bangladesh Investment Department Authority (BIDA), and Md Abdur Rauf, secretary, Ministry of Textiles and Jute were also present. 

In his address, BGMEA President Faruque Hassan said Bangladesh had potential to develop high-value fashionable garments using locally produced fabrics like Muslin, a fabric that illustrates the rich heritage and culture of Bangladesh.. 

With the support of the government, BGMEA is already working to explore possibilities of presenting Bangladeshi culture and fashion internationally and exporting them to the global market, he said. 

The association would promote Muslin products worldwide by presenting them to international buyers through exhibitions and cultural events, he added.

Apparel exports may bounce back by December

RMG buyers, technology suppliers as well as fabrics and garments manufacturers are hoping Bangladesh’s apparel exports will make a return to positive trends in the next six months.

Global demand is expected to be higher than in the previous year as most brands and retailers will have their stocks cleared by that time frame, apparel stakeholders told The Business Standard during the Bangladesh Denim Expo on Tuesday.

Shafiur Rahman Safiq, regional operations manager of G-Star Raw, said people are touring everywhere in Europe, which he termed a a positive sign.

“Apparel sales go up when people are on tour,” he said, sharing his recent Amsterdam visit experience.

“Besides, stores are clearing their inventories and it will create more demand,” he said, adding that they are hoping business to grow further by December as indications of the business cycle starting to bounce back are apparent.

Pioneer Denim Deputy General Manager Md Hasibul Huda echoed the same, saying, “Demands will increase in all markets by September and October ahead of Christmas Day.”

He said that they are optimistic about doing better in the North American markets, where business in recent times has dropped to half.

“Monthly exports to the US mark came down from $2.5 million to $1 million,” he said, adding that exports to the EU market have already started to take off thanks to some orders shifting from Pakistan and Turkey.

Brant Tong, sales manager of XDD Textile from Vietnam, said business is slow now because of inflation.

He also hoped business would turn around after six months with the global crisis easing by then in the major export destinations in the western world.

“Bangladesh is a big market for us,” he said, adding that they have been doing business in Bangladesh for 15 years with an annual growth of 30-40%.

Alice Tonello, research and development and marketing director at Tonello, an Italian technology company, said the garment business is down in Europe now because of high inflation resulting from the Russia-Ukraine war.

Tonello pointed out that consumers’ buying preferences have changed a lot after the pandemic. People are now more inclined to spend on tourism and other experiences rather than on spending money for garment items.

Syed Mohammed Tahmir, director of Pacific Jeans Group, agreed. He added that the war too has impacted people’s buying patterns.

John, representative of the Chinese textile manufacturer Zhejiang Xinlan Textile Co. Ltd, said all businesses are passing through tough times in the aftermath of the Ukraine-Russia war.  

Tanvir Hossain Dipu, project manager at Jenologia, a Spanish technology company for denim washing and processing, said that their business is going slow as most of their customers are producing less than their capacity as inflation bites into global demands.

Bangladesh’s overall exports plunged for two months in a row in April with the RMG sector, the country’s export might, also witnessing negative growth.

In April, exports for the RMG sector stood at $3.32 billion, which is a significant decline of 15.48% compared to April of 2022.

Export sectors earned $3.95 billion in April, while it was $4.73 billion in the same month in the last fiscal year, according to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB).

The two-day long Bangladesh Denim Expo will wrap up today at the International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB) in the capital.

Over 90 local and international exhibitors are attending the event to display fabrics, garments, threads, machinery, finishing equipment and accessories.

The expo has brought together major denim stakeholders from across the world under one roof, according to Mostafiz Uddin, founder of Bangladesh Denim Expo. 

RMG BANGLADESH NEWS