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Ready made blazer market thrives on fashion awareness

Traders say the market of readymade blazers is expanding, owing to increased fashion-awareness and purchasing power of the people from different socio-economic classes

Giving much thought to what to buy for a winter outfit which will be at the same time warm and suitable for any formal occasion, university student Habibur Rahman Shan finally decided on a blazer. He bought a readymade one at New Market for Tk1,800, which he found also affordable. “I chose the blazer, as it is both a winter wear and fashionable,” said Shan.He said that he had earlier thought of having a tailor-made blazer. “I found getting a blazer made by a tailor very costly while the price of a readymade one is almost half,” he added.Like Habibur, many people, especially the young, now prefer readymade blazers for winter wear due to their affordable prices. They also consider it as fashionable that can be worn throughout the year.Traders say the market of readymade blazers is expanding, owing to increased fashion-awareness and purchasing power of the people from different socio-economic classes.They also cite competitive price as another reason behind the expansion.“We sell readymade blazers throughout the year, but sales shoot up in winter,” said Raj Kalam, a wholesaler at the Keraniganj garment hub that accounts for 90% of the local garments supply.He said that there was a time when only the elite used to wear blazers and it had to be made by order. “Now, readymade blazers are available in markets at lower prices,” Kalam added.He informed that some of the garments manufacturers at the hub started making readymade blazer 8 to 10 years ago, adding that the number of blazer manufacturers was on the rise with growing demand for the product.Collecting clothes, button leather and other materials from different sources, manufacturers make blazers of various designs at the Keraniganj garment hub. Most of the clothes the manufacturers use to make blazers are imported, especially from China, Korea and India, while other materials such as button, yarn etc are procured locally.Production doubled in five yearsThough statistics or any research on the product is not available yet, manufacturers said the local production of readymade blazers doubled over the last five years.“I used to make 90-100 pieces of blazers in a week just five years ago. Now I make at least 200 pieces per week on average,” said Alamgir Hossain, who has two small blazer-manufacturing units at the Keraniganj garment hub.The garments hub has at least 500 factories that specialize in the manufacturing of blazers, according to the Keraniganj Garments Traders and Shop Owners’ Cooperative Association. A total of 6,000 workers are employed in these factories.Besides, many of the 8,000 factories at the hub produce blazer during the winter along with their other regular productions, according to the association.The association Treasurer Sheikh Kawsar said that every blazer manufacturer at the hub had been experiencing at least 20-25% growth each year over the last few years. The blazer was the most promising product at the hub, he remarked.Yearly market worth Tk300 crore Currently, yearly local demand for readymade blazers stands approximately at 20 lakh pieces, which is worth Tk300 crore, said Sheikh Kawsar.Of this quantity, the Keraniganj garments hub supply about 16 lakh pieces worth Tk240 crore, amounting to 80% of the total readymade blazer sales.Several other local garment manufacturing companies, located across the country, produce the rest of the blazers.According to Kawsar, almost 50% of the people who wear blazer wear readymade ones.Prices The price of readymade blazers varies depending on its quality and brands. Indian cloth-made blazers were found selling at Tk1,500-8,000 a piece, while blazers made of other cloth can be bought at Tk800-5,000. Gabardine cloth made blazers were found selling at Tk600-3,000 per piece, as the prices of leather and artificial leather-made blazers were found to be Tk1,200-6,000 per piece.

SC upholds HC bar on Nirapon’s inspection, training

The Supreme Court today upheld a High Court order that issued a ban on the inspection and training activities of Nirapon, an alliance of North American readymade garments (RMG) buyers in Bangladesh.

A five-member bench of the Appellate Division of the SC headed by Chief Justice Syed Mahmud Hossain dismissed a petition filed by Nirapon challenging the HC order. Following a writ petition filed by Dragon Sweater Bangladesh Limited, the HC on October 22 this year imposed a six-month ban on the inspection and training activities of Nirapon that had been overseeing the building safety, inspection and remediation of garment factories in Bangladesh since April this year. The HC also issued a rule asking Nirapon to explain why it should not be ordered to join the RMG Sustainability Council and to establish a common standard for safety monitoring of RMG sector, Barrister Imtiaz Moinul Islam, a lawyer for Dragon Sweater Bangladesh Limited, told The Daily Star. He said the HC order of ban will remain in force following the apex court order. Barrister Imtiaz said, Nirapon, which is the continuation of Alliance for Bangladesh Workers Safety, has no permission from Bangladesh Investment Development Authority to operate functions in Bangladesh. But, Nirapon was arbitrarily charging extra from the factories for their inspection and training, he said, adding that the HC is scheduled to hold hearing on the rule on December 11. Advocate Ahsanul Karim appeared for Nirapon while Barrister Sheikh Fazle Noor Taposh argued for Dragon Sweater Bangladesh Limited.

Indian apparel exports to US rose 5% post GSP withdrawal

India’s apparel exports to the United States after the removal of duty concessions under the generalized system of preferences (GSP) programme of the United States have witnessed a rise of 5 per cent compared to the same period last year when the duty benefits were applicable, textiles minister Smriti Irani informed parliament upper house yesterday. US President Donald Trump in July 2019 terminated India’s designation as a beneficiary developing nation under the GSP programme after determining that it has not assured the United States that it will provide ‘equitable and reasonable access’ to its markets earlier this year. “Balance of apparel trade was in favour of India by $4 billion during 2018,” an official release quoted Irani as saying. She also said the Indian textile industry is subject to provisions of the World Trade Organisation (WTO) Agreement on Subsidies and Countervailing Measures (ASCM), which stipulates that if a developing country member’s exports of a product have reached a share of at least 3.25 per cent of world trade of that product for two consecutive calendar years, it will be considered as export competitive in that product. “Further, export subsidies on such products shall be gradually phased out over a period of eight years. As per this provision, India is obligated to phase out subsidies which are export contingent,” Irani added.

Telangana seeks ₹898 cr from Indian govt for Textile Park

The Telangana state recently sought about ₹898 crore from the Indian government for creating infrastructure at the upcoming Kakatiya Mega Textile Park (KMTP) in Warangal. State minister for information technology and industries KT Rama Rao submitted a memorandum regarding this to minister for textiles Smriti Irani in New Delhi early this week. The Telangana government has also submitted the required documentation sought during the project approval committee meeting. The government asked for sanction of ₹897.92 crore for infrastructure at the textile park, and also early approval of the project, an official press release issued in Hyderabad said. Rao also requested Irani to finalise the policy for Development of Manufacturing Regions for Textile and Apparel Sector (MRTA) so that projects like KMTP can benefit, the release said. KMTP is in line with the draft policy of MRTA of the ministry of textile aimed at establishing manufacturing facilities for domestic and export-led production in apparel and other textile-related sectors, the release said. The park has already received a foreign direct investment commitment of $145 million from Youngone Corporation, South Korea, and the Telangana government has signed memoranda of understanding for ₹3,020 crore with 14 textile and apparel companies, the release added.

India’s apparel exports face duty disadvantage in EU

Apparel exports from India to the European Union face a duty disadvantage vis-à-vis other competing countries, Union minister of textiles Smriti Irani said in a written reply to the Lok Sabha. India’s textile and apparel exports (including handicrafts) increased slightly from $39.3 billion in 2017-18 to $40.4 billion in 2018-19, the minister said. Countries like Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Vietnam enjoy preferential or duty-free access while exporting to the EU, Irani said. “Apparel exports from competing countries enjoy zero/preferential access to European Union whereas India faces a duty disadvantage. Besides Bangladesh and Vietnam have a large and productive labour force,” Irani added.

Sonali bags in the offing, finally

‘The rest of the fund will be approved very soon’

The commercial production of jute polymer-based biodegradable Sonali Bag is going to start soon as the government has recently approved the required fund in this regard. Speaking to Dhaka Tribune, Dr Mubarak Hossain, a notable scientist and the chief scientific officer at the Bangladesh Jute Mills Corporation (BJMC), said “Hopefully, the fund will be released soon.  We will embark on the production as a pilot project. We have a plan to produce one lakh Sonali bags commercially per day.” He said they initially demanded Tk2crore for the pilot project to produce  the bags, and the government already approved half the amount. “The rest of the fund will be approved very soon,” Dr Mubarak hoped. The machine that is used in the production of the eco-friendly jute bag has already been procured to be used in the pilot basis commercial production, he added, saying the state-owned Latif Bawani Jute Mills Ltd in Demra would produce the bags. Dr Mubarak Hossain started  his work to invent a biodegradable polymer from jute fiber in 2010. After trying for several years, success finally came in 2015. The product, made of polymer, was named “Sonali Bag” by the Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina. He said though petroleum-based synthetic substance polythene was  cheaper than a Sonali Bag, it was biodegradable and made from 100% organic materials. “The product has great potential to take over the market of polythene and polypropylene bags and private entrepreneurs already started showing interests in producing the bag”, he added. While asked about the plan with the bags , he said they would sale the Sonali  bags to shops at different shopping malls and to entrepreneurs who are interested to send the product abroad as sample. “The demand for the newly invented ‘Sonali bag’ is increasing day by day both locally and internationally; and every day I receive e-mails or phone calls from buyers of different countries, showing their interests to procure the environment-friendly jute polymer bags,” he added. Currently Bangladesh is producing only 2,000 environment-friendly Sonali bags per day on experimental basis. “Though we are ready for full-swing commercial production, we haven’t been able to do so owing to lack of sufficient fund. The  government is very much keen to promote wide scale use of the biodegradable jute polymer bags instead of polythene so that pollution can be minimized,” Dr Mubarak said. Earlier on October 2, last year the BJMC and Futamura Chemical Ltd inked a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) under which the UK firm is supposed to provide technical support to the BJMC for the commercial production of the much-talked about bags. In addition to this, on April 7, 2019, Bangladesh Climate Change Trust Fund (BCCTF) approved Tk10 crore to conduct advance research on the various quality and environmental aspects of polymer jute bags, which will pave the way for exporting the produce in the global market. This will also enable BJMC to go for the large-scale commercial production in the future.

RMG exports face major setback as more factories shutter

The ready-made garments (RMG) sector is not in good shape and it has created a huge negative impact on the economy

Export earnings from the country’s apparel sector have suffered a debacle recently as more factories are being shut day by day, making thousands of workers jobless. The ready-made garments (RMG) sector is not in good shape and it has created a huge negative impact on the economy. Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Rubana Huq said: “A total of 60 factories, members of the association, have been closed from January to October due to financial crisis. As a result, some 29,594 workers have lost their jobs.” Bangladesh is the world’s second largest ready-made garments (RMG) exporter after China, with the sector accounting for more than half of manufacturing employment and around 84% of  export earnings of the country. “The growing financial crisis in RMG indicates that the sector, on which our export earnings depend heavily, is gradually deteriorating. No sign of improvement can be seen yet,” Rubana added. According to another data, more than 100 factories, including 40 BGMEA members, have shut down their operations in the first seven months of this year. About 60,000 workers have lost their jobs as garment factories have closed due to higher cost of production and lower prices offered by foreign buyers. A Bangladesh Bank report also shows evidence that the export sector of the country is facing a major blow. Export declined by 17.19% in October this year compared to October last year. Export earnings was around $3.72 billion in October 2018, which declined to $3.08 billion in October this year. Industrialists involved in RMG sector said the export earnings declined mainly because of the decrease in foreign orders to buy apparel products. Additionally, Bangladesh is facing some new competitors like Myanmar, India, Pakistan and Vietnam in the global market. Siddiqur Rahman, vice-president of Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industries (FBCCI) and former president of BGMEA, said: “European countries are currently dealing with recession but the US market is comparatively in good shape. However we could not take advantage of US market properly.” “Our competitors, like India and Pakistan, have devalued their respective currencies against the US dollar but we did not. That is why we are losing orders and losing the competitiveness. The factories are being shut as they could not sustain the losses anymore,” he said. Currently BGMEA has over 3,000 apparel factories registered as members. Earlier in May this year, 22 factories were closed in just 18 days. The owners could not pay salaries and arrears of workers, which eventually forced them to shut down in the face of protests. According to Bangladesh Bank data, export earnings declined 6.82% in the first quarter of FY 2019-20. Country’s exports earnings was $12.73 billion ($1,272.12 crore) in the first four months of FY20, while it was $13.66 billion ($1,365.17 crore) in the same period of last fiscal year. Meanwhile, a report by Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) says, RMG sector had around 83% contribution in export earnings in the first four months of FY20. The figure is even close to 85% if other contributors related to the sector, such as Hometex and Teri Towel, are included. So in the first quarter, RMG sector earned $10.58 billion. The figure shows growth declined by 6.67% compared to the same period of last fiscal.  

Price competition results in reduced profit margins

Intense price competition among the RMG makers in Asia resulted in reduced profit margins for the Bangladeshi clothing exporters as the country has to import most of the raw materials for the sector. The apparel export of the country has declined in recent months due to worldwide sluggish demand whereas its competitors have seen a rise in the field, said industry insiders. Talking to The Independent, Siddiqur Rahman, former president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers’ and Exporters’ Association (BGMEA), said, “Fashion industry drastically changes and it’s the nature of the industry. We have a higher lead time and we import cotton from abroad which increases the cost and impedes our export, said Rahman,” “On the other hand, Pakistan and Vietnam source most of the raw materials locally and for this reason, their products are marked with lower prices,” said Rahman. In the first four months of the current fiscal year 2019-20 of RMG sector (July-October) fetched $10.57 billion, decreased by 6.67 per cent to $11.33 billion in the same period of FY 2018-19, on the other hand, shipment from Vietnam increased by 10.54 per cent between July and September, he said. It was 2.2 per cent for India and 4.74 per cent for Pakistan, he added. “The inflow of investment in the garment sector is also sluggish both in terms of new entrepreneurship and expansion as the buyers are not paying good prices,” said Rahman.  “Europe is the pivotal export market for us and they have lowered importing goods from us since last year. The entire world market value of export is worth $600 billion where last year it was only $440 billion, which means the export diminishes worldwide and the world market condition is awful, said Rahman. Expressing other reasons, he said that online apparel market is growing which affects the export growth, he said. “The demand for the diversified products is increasing worldwide where we have failed to diversify our products and reliance only one sector which is apparel sector,” he added. Woven products earned USD 5.03 billion in July-October of this fiscal year 2019-20, marking a 7.67 per cent negative growth from the same period in the previous fiscal year which was USD 5.45 billion. The Knitwear industry earned around $5.53 billion during the same time, up by 5.73 per cent from the same period last year which was $5.87 billion, according to EPB. If a T-shirt is sold at $5, the share of accessories is 15 per cent. At present, nearly 1,600 factories are producing the accessories. Some are directly exporting to other countries, Abdul Kader Khan, president of the Bangladesh Garments Accessories and Packaging Manufacturers’ and Exporters’ Association (BGAPMEA) told The Independent. “Our port facility should be completely automated in order to increase the export,” he felt. According to BGMEA, fifty-nine garment factories have been shut and 25,900 workers have lost jobs in the last seven months.

Buyer beware – Vietnam sourcing is not the same as China

US clothing brands and retailers mulling a sourcing switch to Vietnam to avoid the ongoing tariff war with China need to sharpen up – because doing business with Vietnamese trading partners is very different from working with Chinese suppliers. “The main issue is that many US buyers expect to do business in Vietnam the way they have been doing in China, but the business culture is very different and many find it impossible to work in Vietnam because they do not understand or accept the differences,” says Frank Vossen, who runs Seditex, a Ho Chi Minh City-based based sourcing consultancy, focused on quality control.   He explains that while Vietnam and China share the same political system – officially one party communist states that allow large private sectors and markets to thrive – and Vietnam is inspired by the policies of its big neighbor, “they have some big cultural differences.”   He points to Vietnam’s history as a French colony in the late 19th Century and early 20th Century. “Vietnam has absorbed some Latin culture and understands the importance of a win-win relationship; whereas the Chinese only consider they win when they are under the impression that the other one is on the losing end.”  “The Vietnamese are more quality conscious, while the Chinese are more likely to value quantity over quality” – Frank Vossen He adds the Vietnamese are more quality conscious, while the Chinese are more likely to value quantity over quality, adding: “You can cold call a visit to a Chinese trader or factory and be received on a red carpet; in Vietnam they will not attend to you unless you have been introduced by someone they know or trust.”  As for negotiations, Chinese suppliers may well try to catch business by promising great products, great prices “and later on the prices will increase and the quality will not be as good as promised.” The Vietnamese, on the other hand, do not run after business; business has to come to them. “They will be very conservative in their quotations, taking extra margins for errors, and once the relationship is established, the prices will be adjusted downwards.”

Different management models 

Differences in business culture between China and Vietnam may be accentuated by different management models pursued by Europeans and Americans, according to Duncan Stirling, an Ireland-based freelance sourcing agent and management consultant who has undertaken market entry research for a wide range of industries in China and Vietnam.  Stirling, who is a graduate of the EU-China Managers Exchange & Training Programme, and who has run sourcing businesses in the two countries over the past two decades, points to impressive German-owned factories he has visited operated by brands such as van Laack and Rieker in Hanoi, Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh City.  “The [German] model is to set-up and run the factory for the long term…American brands seem to be different. I have never come across American companies actually investing in the same way. They use a lot of sub-contractors and suppliers but little in the way of ‘set-up and run your own show’,” taking the care that Vietnamese seem to like. “The people who run the factories the Americans use are very often Taiwanese or Singaporean, but usually Taiwanese. “As regards working culture, Vietnam is “much, much fairer to the worker,” according to Stirling. “Aside from more holidays compared to their Chinese counterparts, Vietnamese workers are represented by “unions and works councils that have an active say in the running of the firm…Vietnamese socialism is much friendlier in that respect. They do care about the workers more.”

Wages and quality 

Wage inflation is more pronounced in Vietnam, he concedes. As in China, factory owners are often not sure if workers will return after the Chinese New Year holidays – celebrated in Vietnam as the ‘Tet’ festival – but this is less likely as more Vietnamese workers stay and build up salary. “It is only 90 million people – it is like one province of China, there aren’t the huge waves of people flowing to different places on a whim. People tend to stay put more. There are a smaller number of targets for them to go to for work. They tend to stay.”  As for quality control: “It can take time to get the quality you need when working with a new supplier in Vietnam. After a few iterations, it improves,” but “a hands-off approach will never work here,” even if the “more experienced the supplier the better.”  In China, by contrast, despite the generally weaker focus on quality, the management at Chinese suppliers do not need such careful handling to get the job done, assuming the supplier chooses to deliver what a brand needs. “In China, they have been up this learning curve already.”  Stirling has advice for US brands seeking Vietnamese manufacturers: invest directly for the long term and retain control. “In short, if I were a brand and I wanted to build for the long term, then I would do it all myself there. And it would be tough at the beginning, but what isn’t. It always is. It would work and would pay-off.”  With US interest rates so low, “if there was ever a time to try something like this, it is now.”  So far as the clothing sector is concerned, American brands have yet to take his advice, however. Will they? Maybe, maybe not: American firms “are very footloose” in that respect.

পোশাকনির্ভরতার পাশাপাশি বাড়ছে অর্থনৈতিক ঝুঁকি

দেশের রফতানি আয়ের ৮৫ শতাংশ আসছে তৈরী পোশাক শিল্পখাত থেকে। শিল্পখাতে কর্মসংস্থান হওয়া শ্রমিকদের দুই-তৃতীয়াংশ কাজ করছে এ খাতে। প্রিন্টিং, প্যাকেজিং, বোতাম, জিপার, লেবেল, ট্যাগ, কার্টুন থেকে শুরু করে শত শত শিল্পের সাফল্য নির্ভর করছে পোশাকের ওপর। পোশাক শিল্পের ওপর নির্ভরশীলতা আছে বৃহদাকার তুলা, সুতা, টেক্সটাইল, ডায়িং, উইভিং প্রভৃতি শিল্পেরও। ব্যাংক, বীমা ও আর্থিক প্রতিষ্ঠানগুলোও টিকে আছে তৈরী পোশাক শিল্পকে ঘিরে। সঙ্গত কারণেই পোশাক শিল্পে কোনো সঙ্কট দেখা দিলে অস্থিরতা সৃষ্টি হয় সংশ্লিষ্ট অগ্র ও পশ্চাদ শিল্পগুলোয়। ঝুঁকিতে পড়ে সামগ্রিক অর্থনীতি। এরই মধ্যে বিপত্তি ঘটিয়েছে সরকারের একটি সিদ্ধান্ত। চলতি অর্থবছরের বাজেটে পোশাকসহ সব খাতের উৎসে কর ১ শতাংশ নির্ধারণ করা হয়।

এতে হোঁচট খায় শিল্প। ব্যবসায়ীদের দাবির মুখে সরকার শেষ পর্যন্ত নিজ অবস্থান থেকে ফিরে আসে। ১ শতাংশ থেকে কমিয়ে উৎসে কর দশমিক ২৫ শতাংশ করা হয়। গত ২১ অক্টোবর প্রজ্ঞাপন জারির দিন থেকেই তা কার্যকর করা হয়। যদিও তৈরী পোশাক মালিকদের সংগঠন বিজিএমইএ চায়, তা যেন ১ জুলাই থেকে কার্যকর করা হয়। তৈরী পোশাক খাতের চলমান দুরবস্থার চিত্র তুলে ধরে জাতীয় রাজস্ব বোর্ডকে (এনবিআর) লেখা এক চিঠিতে বিজিএমইএর সভাপতি ড. রুবানা হক এ দাবি জানান। বিজিএমইএর ওই চিঠিতে রফতানি পোশাক খাতের দুরবস্থার চিত্র তুলে ধরে বলা হয়, দেশের প্রায় ৮৪ শতাংশ রফতানি আয় অর্জনকারী এই শিল্পটি বর্তমানে দেশ-বিদেশে নজিরবিহীন চ্যালেঞ্জের মুখে পড়েছে। বর্তমানে পোশাকশিল্প ক্রান্তিকাল অতিক্রম করছে। আন্তর্জাতিক বাজারে অব্যাহত দরপতন, শ্রমিকদের মজুরি বৃদ্ধিসহ নানা প্রতিকূলতার কারণে ব্যবসায় পরিচালনা ব্যয় বেড়েছে ৩০ শতাংশ।

বিদায়ী ২০১৮-১৯ অর্থবছরের রফতানি পর্যালোচনায় দেখা যায়, মোট রফতানি হয়েছে চার হাজার ৫৩ কোটি ডলারের পণ্য। এই আয় আগের অর্থবছরে রফতানি হওয়া তিন হাজার ৬৬৬ কোটি ডলারের চেয়ে ১০ দশমিক ৫৫ শতাংশ বেশি। তা ছাড়া লক্ষ্যমাত্রার চেয়ে ৩ দশমিক ৯৪ শতাংশ রফতানি বেশি হয়েছে বিদায়ী অর্থবছরে। এ বছর রফতানি আয়ের ৮৪ শতাংশ পোশাক খাত থেকে এসেছে। সব মিলিয়ে বছরটিতে তিন হাজার ৪১৩ কোটি ডলারের তৈরী পোশাক রফতানি হয়েছে। এই আয় ২০১৭-১৮ অর্থবছরের চেয়ে ১১ দশমিক ৪৯ শতাংশ বেশি। আর বিদায়ী অর্থবছরের পোশাক রফতানি লক্ষ্যমাত্রার চেয়ে ৪ দশমিক ৪২ শতাংশ বেশি। আবার পোশাকশিল্পের মধ্যে ওভেন পোশাক রফতানি হয়েছে এক হাজার ৭২৪ কোটি ডলারের। প্রবৃদ্ধি ১১ দশমিক ৭৯ শতাংশ। অন্য দিকে নিট পোশাক রফতানি হয়েছে এক হাজার ৬৮৮ কোটি ডলারের। এ ক্ষেত্রে প্রবৃদ্ধি ১১ দশমিক ১৯ শতাংশ।

বিদায়ী অর্থবছরে পোশাকের বাইরে দ্বিতীয় সর্বোচ্চ ১০১ কোটি ৯৭ লাখ ডলারের রফতানি আয় এসেছে চামড়া খাত থেকে। দীর্ঘ দিন ধরে খাতটির রফতনি আয় নিম্নমুখী। গত ২০১৮-১৯ অর্থবছরে চামড়া ও চামড়া পণ্যের রফতানি কমেছে ৬ শতাংশ। তৃতীয় সর্বোচ্চ ৯০ কোটি ৮৯ লাখ ডলারের রফতনি আয় এসেছে প্রক্রিয়াজাত কৃষিপণ্য থেকে। এই আয় গত ২০১৭-১৮ অর্থবছরের চেয়ে ৩৪ দশমিক ৯২ শতাংশ বেশি। এ বছর চামড়া ও চামড়া পণ্য, পাট ও পাট পণ্য, হোম টেক্সটাইল এবং হিমায়িত চিংড়ি রফতানি কমেছে। আর বেড়েছে তৈরী পোশাক, প্রক্রিয়াজাত কৃষিপণ্য, টেরিটাওয়েলে। স্বাধীনতা-পরবর্তী বাংলাদেশের তিন প্রধান রফতানি পণ্য পাট, চা ও চামড়ার অবস্থা দিন দিন হতাশাজনক পর্যায়ের দিকে যাচ্ছে।

পর্যালোচনায় দেখা যায়, ১৯৮৩-৮৪ অর্থবছরে পোশাক রফতানি ছিল মাত্র তিন কোটি মার্কিন ডলারের। ২০০৯-১০ অর্থবছরে সেটি বেড়ে হয় এক হাজার ২৪৯ কোটি ডলারে। গত অর্থবছর পোশাক রফতানি হয় তিন হাজার ৪১৩ কোটি ডলারের। তার মানে ৩৬ বছরের ব্যবধানে পোশাকের রফতানি বেড়েছে এক হাজার ১৩৩ গুণ। আর সর্বশেষ ১০ বছরে বেড়েছে পৌনে তিন গুণ। বছরের পর বছর ধরে সরকারের নীতিসহায়তা ও প্রণোদনা, সস্তা শ্রম আর উদ্যোক্তাদের অক্লান্ত পরিশ্রমে দেশের পোশাকশিল্প শক্ত ভিতের ওপর দাঁড়িয়েছে। বিপুলসংখ্যক কর্মসংস্থান, সহযোগী উপখাত আর কোটি কোটি ডলারের রফতানির কারণে দেশের আর্থসামাজিক উন্নয়নে ব্যাপক ভূমিকা রাখছে পোশাকশিল্প। কিন্তু এ ব্যবসায়ে আসছে নিত্যনতুন চ্যালেঞ্জও। উৎপাদন খরচ বেড়ে যাওয়ায় তাদের প্রতিযোগিতা সক্ষমতা কমে যাচ্ছে। শুরু হয়েছে মূল্যযুদ্ধ।

অর্থনৈতিক বিশ্লেষকদের মতে, বাংলাদেশের রফতানিতে তৈরী পোশাক শিল্পের অবদান যতই বাড়ছে তার সাথে পাল্লা দিয়ে বাড়ছে অর্থনৈতিক ঝুঁকি। ভিয়েতনামের কাছে দ্বিতীয় শীর্ষ পোশাক রফতানিকারকের মুকুট হারাতে যাচ্ছে বাংলাদেশ। চলতি ২০১৯-২০ অর্থবছরের প্রথম চার মাসে রফতানি ৬ দশমিক ৬৭ শতাংশ কমে যাওয়ায় এই শঙ্কা আরো প্রবল হচ্ছে। এরই মধ্যে বছরের প্রথম ৯ মাসে পোশাক রফতানিতে বাংলাদেশকে ছাড়িয়ে গেছে ভিয়েতনাম। বিশেষ করে চলতি বছরের প্রথম ৯ মাসে ভিয়েতনাম যুক্তরাষ্ট্রে এক হাজার ৩৫ কোটি ডলারের পোশাক রফতানি করেছে, যা গত বছরের একই সময়ের চেয়ে ১২ দশমিক ৭০ শতাংশ বেশি। অন্য দিকে বাংলাদেশ রফতানি করেছে ৪৫৬ কোটি ডলারের পোশাক, যা গত বছরের একই সময়ের চেয়ে ৯ দশমিক ৯৬ শতাংশ বেশি।

বিজিএমইএ সূত্রে প্রাপ্ত তথ্যানুযায়ী, বর্তমানে নিট পোশাকের ৮০ থেকে ৮৫ শতাংশ কাপড় দেশে উৎপাদন হলেও ওভেন পোশাক তৈরির ৬৫ থেকে ৭০ শতাংশ কাপড়ই বিদেশ থেকে আমদানি করতে হচ্ছে। অন্য দিকে পোশাক তৈরির জন্য প্রয়োজনীয় বোতাম, লেবেল, কার্টুনসহ অন্যান্য সরঞ্জামের প্রায় ৯০ শতাংশই দেশে উৎপাদন হচ্ছে। মূলত ওভেন কাপড় উৎপাদনে পিছিয়ে থাকার জন্যই মূল্য সংযোজন বাড়ছে না। এ জন্য বস্ত্র খাতে বিনিয়োগ দরকার বলে মনে করেন বস্ত্রকল মালিকদের সংগঠন বিটিএমএ সভাপতি মোহাম্মদ আলী। তার দাবি, অর্থনৈতিক অঞ্চলে অগ্রাধিকার ভিত্তিতে জমি ও কিছু নীতিসহায়তা দিলেই বস্ত্রকলে বিনিয়োগে আগ্রহী হবেন উদ্যোক্তারা।

সামগ্রিক বিষয়ে কথা বলতে গিয়ে গবেষণা সংস্থা সেন্টার ফর পলিসি ডায়লগের (সিপিডি) গবেষণা পরিচালক ড. খন্দকার গোলাম মোয়াজ্জেম নয়া দিগন্তকে বলেন, বাংলাদেশের তৈরী পোশাক শিল্পের সামনে সম্ভাবনা যেমন আছে, তেমনি অনেক চ্যালেঞ্জও আছে। আমরা এখন নিজেদের মাঝে প্রতিযোগিতা করে পণ্যের দাম কমাচ্ছি। অনৈতিক প্রতিযোগিতায় জড়িয়ে সবারই ক্ষতি করছি। বাংলাদেশের পোশাক শিল্প ক্ষতিগ্রস্ত হলে দেশের পুরো অর্থনীতিই ক্ষতিগ্রস্ত হবে জানিয়ে তিনি বলেন, পোশাক খাত ৩০ লাখ নারীশ্রমিকের ক্ষমতায়ন করেছে। শিল্প ক্ষতিগ্রস্ত হলে তাদের সাথে যুক্ত ছোট ছোট দর্জি, মুদি দোকানি, ফ্ল্যাক্সি লোডের দোকানদার, লিপিস্টিক বিক্রেতা, লেইস ফিতার হকার থেকে শুরু করে অর্থনীতির অনেক খাতে প্রভাব পড়বে। আর আমাদের ব্যাংকিং সেক্টর তো টিকে আছে পোশাক শিল্পের ওপরই। এ শিল্পের কিছু হলে আর্থিক খাতে চরম দুর্গতি নেমে আসবে বলে মন্তব্য করেন তিনি।

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