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105 RMG units facing closure over safety faults

One hundred and five readymade garment factories inspected under ILO-supported national initiative are going to face closure as the units have failed to make any progress in fixing safety faults. At the same time, 197 more RMG factories might face export licence suspension as the Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishments has taken a move to send letters to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association and the bond commissionerate requesting them to stop providing utilisation declaration and suspend bond licence to the companies for non-compliance. According to the recent data disclosed by the Remediation Coordination Cell, the National Tripartite Committee at its 15th meeting held on July 31 at the labour ministry approved an Escalation Protocol to expedite remediation works in the RMG factories inspected under the national initiative. As of September 19 this year, 393 factories remained at Round-3 (factories which received warning letters), 197 at Round-4 (factories whose export licences are suspended) and 105 factories reached Round-5 (factories which received closure notice) under the Escalation Protocol, the RCC data showed. ‘We have hold meeting with the owners of the Round-5 factories in last month and informed them about the factory closure. We have also sent the list of Round-5 factories to the DIFE as the department is responsible to issue closure notice to the units,’ AKM Salehuddin, project director of the RCC, told New Age on Thursday. He said that the DIFE had also sit with the factory owners this month and few factories got one week and few got two weeks to start remediation work and to avert factory closure. According to the Escalation Protocol, after becoming a Round 5 factory, the factory owners will be notified to meet the inspector general of DIFE in presence of the representatives of respective employers’ association and labour organisation where he/she will be given a final warning letter to start remediation within two weeks. If the factory still remains non-compliance or postpones work any time, it will be escalated to the Round 6 and the DIFE would issue a closure order to the factory, the protocol said. ‘Despite holding repeated meetings, the factory authorities failed to make any progress in implementing corrective action plan in their units and DIFE has decided to issue closure notice to the factories,’ Farid Ahmed, joint inspector general of the DIFE, told New Age on Sunday. Before issuing the letter, the department would sit once again with the factory owners and the DIFE has already sat with the factory owners in Gazipur in the second week of this month, he said. Earlier on September 20, 2018, the inspection department issued separate letters to the BGMEA and the BKMEA, asking the trade bodies to stop providing utilisation declaration to 219 non-compliant RMG units as the remediation progress in those units was not satisfactory. Of them, 134 units were members of the BGMEA and 74 were members of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association. Responding to the letter from the department, the BGMEA stopped issuing utilisation declaration to 51 factories. The BKMEA sources said 74 units were shut due to lack of work orders. The RCC officials said they had prepared a fresh list of 197 RMG factories which reached the Round 4. The RCC sent the list to the DIFE to issue letters to respective trade bodies and the bond commissionerate requesting to stop providing utilisation declaration and suspend bond license to the companies for non-compliance, officials said. Following the April, 2013 Rana Plaza building collapse that killed more than 1,100 people, a total of 3,780 garment factories were assessed for safety under three initiatives – European retailers’ platform Accord, North American buyers’ platform Alliance, and the government-led and ILO-supported national initiative. Of the 3,780 garment factories, 1,549 were inspected under the national initiative. Of them, 531 were closed, 69 relocated and 193 transferred to Accord and Alliance lists. According to the government data, the factories that fell under the national initiative completed 38 per cent of structural, 39 per cent of electrical and 34 per cent of fire remediation. It also showed that 16 buildings housing 17 factories completed 100 per cent remediation.

BGMEA seeks prompt govt intervention

The country’s apex apparel body has called for government intervention to address banking disputes with China to save the reputation of the local financial sector, officials said. It has sought commerce ministry’s cooperation in facilitating talks with the agencies concerned in Dhaka and Beijing. According to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), Chinese banks have reservations against some commercial banks here due to their poor financial performance. Referring to some media reports, the clothing platform said China has reportedly ‘blacklisted’ some Bangladeshi banks. Several of the banks have already clarified their stance. To highlight the matter of great import, BGMEA president Dr Rubana Huq has recently sent a letter to commerce minister Tipu Munshi. “You’re certainly aware of the banking issues that China has raised against certain commercial banks in Bangladesh that ultimately tarnish the reputation of its financial sector,” she writes. “A good number of state-owned and private banks have been classified by their internal credit departments as weak, citing higher advance-deposit ratio, inadequate capital, bad governance and management problems.” In the letter, Ms Rubana claimed that there was no serious allegation behind blacklisting Bangladeshis commercial banks by the Chinese authorities. She said, “I’ve gathered information from a few commercial banks in Bangladesh. It appears that local banks are operating with Chinese banks smoothly.” The BGMEA chief informed senior representatives of some banks of the issues and met the trade counsellor of the Chinese embassy in Dhaka two months ago. She found that there was no serious allegation raised by the embassy that might lead to ‘blacklist’ banks. In the letter, Mr Rubana said, “I’ve enquired and found that there is no pending or overdue import bill to any bank in China.” “However, such issues are not helpful for inter-bank and country-to-country relationships.” China is the largest partner of Bangladesh having bilateral trade grown by 14.47 per cent of the compound annual growth rate in the past 10 years. The Sino-Bangla trade accounted to $12.40 billion in fiscal year 2017-18, reads the letter. The BGMEA leader said, “We should look into the issues seriously and resolve them to avoid any future hiccups in our trade.” She called for discussing the matter with the management of the listed banks by China, get it clarified and settled without delay. Ms Rubana was contacted for comment, she SMSed this reported to inform her stay in New York now. When asked, BGMEA senior vice-president Faisal Samad said there was no problem over the payment issue. It was mainly the communication gap between the Bangladeshi and Chinese bank authorities concerned, he told the FE. Mr Samad claimed the china authorities too have problems.

Remediation or closure?

More than 300 ready-made garment (RMG) factories, inspected under the national initiative, are going to face various punishments, like – closure and suspension of export license, as they have failed to make required remedial progress until date, officials said. The Remediation Coordination Cell (RCC) under the Ministry of Labour and Employment (MoLE), in this regard, has already warned some 105 garment units of closure in line with its escalation protocol phase five. They also said the government will issue closure notice to the factories, if they fail to make progress within the set timeframe. Besides, the RCC put additional 197 factories in phase four of the escalation protocol. They might face temporary suspension of utilisation declaration (UD), issued by their respective trade-bodies, and suspension of bond license by bond commissionarate, the officials added. The MoLE on July 31 approved the escalation protocol, which is similar to punitive measures of the western retailers’ platforms – Accord and Alliance. It aims at expediting remediation works in the RMG factories, inspected under national initiative. The protocol spells out requirements for the units, not meeting corrective action plan deadlines to address safety non-compliances. If the factories are unwilling to comply with the requirements, the protocol sets out the process how the government and the industry partners will respond to them, following gradual harder steps leading to closure. As of September 19, a total of 393 factories remained in phase three, 197 in phase four (export license suspension), and 105 factories in phase five (received closure notice) under the escalation protocol, the RCC data showed. When asked, the RCC project director A K M Salehuddin told the FE on Thursday that they held meeting with the factories in phase five last month, and warned them of closure. “We have also sent a list of the 105 units to the Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishments (DIFE) that has the authority to shut any industrial unit in this regard.” The RCC has sent another list of more than 100 factories to the DIFE to take measures related to suspension of UD, he added. The DIFE, in September 2018, issued separate letters to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA). It asked the trade-bodies to stop UD declaration to 219 non-compliant RMG units following their poor safety remediation progress. Of them, 134 units were members of the BGMEA and 74 were members of the BKMEA. Responding to the DIFE letter, the BGMEA temporarily suspended issuing UD certificate to 51 non-compliant factories in June, sources said. Some 3,780 garment factories were assessed fire, electrical and structural integrity by Accord, Alliance and national initiative after the tragic Rana Plaza building collapse in April 2013 that killed more than 1,100 people. Some 1,549 garment units, out of the 3,780, were inspected under national initiative, while about 531 units were closed, 69 relocated, and 193 transferred to Accord and Alliance lists. According to the government data, some 700 active factories that are under national initiative completed 38 per cent of structural, 39 per cent of electrical, and 34 per cent of fire remediation works.

RMG exporters in a fix as US buyer rejects $2.6m cargo

A US buyer has dealt a serious blow to 11 Bangladeshi garment exporters as it refused to accept goods worth $2.6 million (more than Tk 22 crore) although the shipment reached the port on time. As a result, the garment companies are not just losing the money, they will have to bear the freight charges for shipping the goods back and face compensation claim from US retailer Kontoor Brands, the exporters said. Kontoor, however, refuted the claims of the exporters. The retailer said it sent back the goods as the shipment missed the sales season. The goods were shipped from Bangladesh in January this year. Of the 11 companies, Nassa Apparels lost $998,110. “I can’t afford the loss and it was not my fault,” said Mohammad Nazrul Islam Mazumder, chairman of Nassa Group, a leading garment exporter. “The goods reached the port as per schedule. There was a fire in the ship but the goods were unaffected,” he said. The exporter said the goods were shipped on free on board (FoB) basis, meaning the senders do not have any liability after the shipment. Now Kontoor Brands is lying, he said. Apart from inflicting nearly $1 million in direct loss on Nassa, the American buyer has already deducted $4 lakh from other consignments as compensation as a payment of adjuster, Mazumder said. An adjuster determines how much an insurance company should pay if a claim is made. The owner of another victim company, asking not to be named, said he had lost $4.30 lakh. He said the brand should stand by the exporters as a longtime business partner. But buyers do not support suppliers when the latter are in trouble. In this type of case, small suppliers lose everything and only big companies can afford such losses, he said. The ship is now in Singapore and is waiting to return to the Chattogram port. In a statement, Scott Deitz, vice president for global corporate relations of Kontoor Brands, said the fire affected finished goods being shipped by multiple vendors in Bangladesh that were to be available for sale to consumers in time for the Spring 2019 selling season. In this case, the vendors were fully responsible to deliver the garments to the US or Canadian port terminal in the spring. “As a result of the fire, delivery of the apparel was delayed by nearly six months, an entire season too late,” he said in a statement. “This was a very unfortunate incident for everyone involved,” Deitz said, refuting claims made by Nassa Group. He said Kontoor’s contract terms with its vendors clearly stipulate that the vendor bears all risk of loss of the goods until the goods reach the destination terminal and transfer of the title of goods to Kontoor takes place. He said many of the vendors involved with the shipment did have the necessary insurance, while others chose not to protect themselves from the potential risk of loss. “And while we understand the concerns of the vendors now affected by their choice not to protect themselves through risk-of-loss insurance, we are properly abiding by governing law and previously agreed upon contracts.” “We can report that we have taken some actions to assist the affected uninsured vendors as they continue to produce goods on our behalf,” Deitz said. Such assistance includes paying demurrage fees, costs to loss adjustors to prevent the goods from becoming abandoned, and return-to-origin transportation fees on behalf of the vendors to limit their further losses. Fees will be collected for these costs in due time, according to the statement. Deitz said Kontoor is helping to arrange for the now distressed goods to be sold through other channels to mitigate the losses for these affected vendors. Rubana Huq, president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), said the fire incident at the vessel was beyond the control of the vendor. But the goods under question were unaffected and therefore there was no cause for initiating an action for an insurance claim. She said the vessel owners declared general average (GA) and everyone in the trade understood its implications that the voyage will have been frustrated and therefore, the vessel and its cargoes will face considerable delays to relay the goods to final destinations. She said the goods were relayed once the freight and the GA contributions were paid directly by Kontoor Brands, and the vendors were confirmed of the release of the payments. This clearly demonstrates that the intent was for the goods to have been received or accepted by them, Huq said. So, the unilateral and arbitrary change of mind by Kontoor to refuse to accept the goods while on way to the final destination is totally beyond moral justifications and unfair, she said. Huq said the vendors are out of pockets with the costs of the goods and the non-payment will severely affect the sustainability of some of these companies. “The return of the goods to the shippers is definitely considered a breach of trust and against the fundamentals of ethical and responsible sourcing.”

Indian textile manufacturers caution govt over RCEP

Indian textile manufacturers and exporters last week again cautioned the government against opening up the domestic market to China under the proposed Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) agreement. In a meeting with the commerce and industry ministry, they pointed out added competition from cheaper Chinese goods may put pressure on domestic sales. International textile business has already been under threat from Bangladesh and Vietnam, they noted. The government reportedly assured them their interests will be protected. RCEP is India’s most ambitious trade pact, currently under negotiation. Based on India’s existing free trade agreement (FTA) with the 10-nation bloc of the Association for South East Asian Nations (ASEAN), RCEP will include all the nations with which the Asean has trade deals — New Zealand, Australia, China, India, Japan and South Korea. At the last such meeting on RCEP, the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) had cautioned the government to tread carefully while ceding space to China in the global textiles and clothing sector. Half of India’s trade in this sector in RCEP is with China, with which it had a big trade deficit of almost $1 billion in 2018, it had said. Export of readymade garments, in which India’s export competitiveness has fallen over the past fiscal year, contracted by 2.44 per cent in August. However, CITI said while the US-China trade war offers an opportunity to Indian textile manufacturers to enhance their exports to the United States, China too would be looking for new markets for its products. This is true for the fabrics sector, where opinion regarding RCEP seems to be divided. China, South Korea and major ASEAN markets may become large destinations for the fabric industry. The Apparel Exports Promotion Council has suggested some caution be exercised during the talks on reducing tariffs for textile products. So far, RCEP talks have seen 28 rounds of negotiations, apart from seven minister-level meets. New Delhi has apparently made it clear that significant tariff concessions have already been made and further talks would be based only after an equal push by China. Meanwhile, India is preparing a final list of products on which it may retain import tariffs for China. Commerce and industry minister Piyush Goyal also met representatives of the pharmaceutical and chemical industries last week to discuss RCEP-related issues.

Telangana has inked 16 MoUs for Kakatiya Mega Textile Park

Telangana has entered into 16 agreements with various firms to set up factories at the Kakatiya Mega Textile Park in Warangal. The process of land allotment is under way and direct and indirect employment for 1.13 lakh people would be generated after full implementation of the project, State industries minister KT Rama Rao told the state assembly. Among those who are establishing base at the park, Warangal-based Kasam Industries will be setting up a ₹100-crore textiles manufacturing unit at the park. The unit, comprising spinning and yarn mills, may also have a dyeing unit. The company plans to hire around 500 people. The company will send its yarn for printing in Surat and once the final textile products are made, those will be sold at the group’s retail company Maangalya Shopping Malls’ stores spread across Telangana and other retailers and wholesalers, according to media reports from the state. Maangalya Shopping Malls is going to open its seventh store in Kukatpally in Hyderabad soon. One of the largest investments in the park is the ₹1,700 crore plant set up by the Welspun Group, which is ready to start production. In addition, the Pashupati Group is investing ₹240 crore in the park while Proctor & Gamble is setting up a technical textiles unit. Also in the pipeline is another factory to be set up by Ganesha Ecosphere, Rama Rao said. The state government will explore employment for former workers of the now-defunct Azam Jahi Mills of Warangal, he added.

Apparel shipments soar 29.92pc

Garment shipments to mostly non-traditional major markets grew by 29.92 per cent on a year-on-year basis to USD683.65 million in the July-August period of FY2019–20 compared to USD526.19 million during the same period in FY2018–19. This increase was due to an incentive package and access of duty-free markets. Other than the traditional markets like the US, Canada, and Europe, others are considered non-traditional markets. Among them are Chile, China, Japan, India, Australia, Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, South-Africa and Russia. These are the markets where Bangladeshi apparel exports are vastly growing. Siddiqur Rahman, former president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers’ and Exporters’ Association (BGMEA), told The Independent that the government had announced a 5 per cent cash incentive for exporting to non-traditional markets back in 2010. It is currently 4 per cent after a revision in 2018. Rahman said that apparel-makers earlier were reluctant to enter those markets because it took lot of trouble and time to enter a new market. A businessperson needed to talk to different people, do their own research and gradually penetrate the market. Also, when a manufacturer enters a new market, he/she needs to lower the product price below the average. Owing to these two reasons, garments manufacturer did not want to explore new markets . “But, since the government provided the cash incentive over a considerable period of time, garments factory owners started exploring new destinations and markets,” he also said. “These two prime reasons prompted the exporters to explore new markets which had grown dramatically over the four to five years,” he added. Another reason, said Siddiqur, was that most of the non-traditional markets offered duty-free access to Bangladeshi apparel exporters. “Presently, non-traditional markets are contributing 15-16 per cent of total export earnings,” he added. In July–August of FY2019–20, Bangladesh earned USD 85.07 million from China, registering a growth of 7.38 per cent, up from USD 79.22 million during the same period of FY2018-19, according to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB). China, the largest apparel supplier of the world, has started importing products from Bangladesh because the Chinese government has allowed duty-free access to over 5,000 Bangladeshi products. According to Siddiqur, there are 40 to 50 crore people in China belonging to the high-middle income group. Inspections by Accord and Alliance have helped to remediate the factories and prompted factory owners to emphasise workplace safety, which eventually lifted the country’s image before the foreign buyers. Around 105 green garment factories are in operation, which are completely LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environment Design)-certified and another 300 are in the process of getting the certification. Of the top 10 green garments factories in the world, the first seven are located in Bangladesh, said Rahman. In July-August of FY2019-20 financial year, Bangladesh earned USD112.63 million from India, recording a growth of 10.61 per cent from USD101.83 million during the same period of FY2018-19, according to the EPB. Former senior vice-president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers’ and Exporters’ Association (BGMEA), Faruque Hassan, said: “Famous international retail brands, such as Zara and H and M, have established their business in India and we are their biggest.” “Another reason is that the Indian domestic market has grown and the number of fashion conscious consumers has increased. We import readymade garments (RMG) raw materials like cotton and machinery from India. So, their exports are also increasing. It is a win-win situation from both the countries,” he said. In July-August of FY2019-20, Bangladesh earned USD 193.36 million from Japan, showing a growth 17.60 per cent from USD 164.42 million during the same period of FY2018-19, shows EPB data. An expert said: “The Japanese market is very niche. We need to send quality products to the Japanese market. We are successfully doing that and the trend shows export is increasing drastically.” In July-August of FY2019-20, Bangladesh earned USD 40.61 million from Mexico with a growth 11.35 per cent, up from USD 36.47 million during the same period of FY2018-19, according to EPB data.

Govt to recruit 60 engineers for remediation works

The government starts recruiting 60 engineers for remediation coordination cell of the Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishments for remediation works in garment factories as the tenure of previously appointed 60 engineers expired in June this year. According to the labour ministry sources, the government would contact a firm to recruit the engineers for 20 months as the tenure of the RCC project was extended for two more years (up to June 2021). Last week, the ministry has published an advertisement on newspaper to choose a consulting firm from where 60 engineers would be recruited to follow-up remediation in the RMG factories inspected under National Action Plan supported by the International Labour Organisation. Besides, the engineers would also look into the remediation in 223 factories handed over and terminated by Accord and follow-up 700 factories handed over by Alliance, sources said. The labour ministry has already published a notice describing the terms and reference of the consulting firm saying that the firm should have minimum five-year work experience in handling projects in the government, semi-government, autonomous, or multinational organisations. It also added that the organisation must have done works in the organisations with an allocation of minimum Tk 8 crore in total and Tk 2 crore in a single work order. The consulting firm that would be selected for the assignment was expected to recruit 60 engineers (20 electrical, 20 fire and 20 structural) having minimum three-year-experience in their respective fields, the ToR said. The core functions of the engineers would be monitoring and implementation of corrective action plan in the readymade garment sector. Following the Rana Plaza Building collapse in April 2013 that killed more than 1,100 people, a total of 3,780 garment factories were assessed under the three initiatives: European retailer platform Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, North American buyers’ platform Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety and the government led and ILO supported national initiative. Out of 3,780 garment factories, 1,549 were inspected under the national initiative, from which 573 were closed down, 79 relocated and 130 units were shifted to the Accord and Alliance lists. Currently, the DIFE monitors remediation works in 755 factories through the ‘remediation coordination cell’ formed in May last year. Alliance left Bangladesh in 2018 with almost 100 per cent remediation in its inspected factories. Accord still works as court extended its tenure and the platform completed 90 per cent remediation in its inspected factories.

চাকরি বাঁচাতে দ্বিগুণ কাজে বাধ্য হচ্ছেন পোশাক শ্রমিকরা

rmg workers

পোশাক শিল্প কারখানাগুলো নিয়োগ বন্ধ রাখায় বেড়েছে বেকার শ্রমিকের সংখ্যা। কাজের সন্ধানে কারখানাগুলোর ফটকে ঘুরছেন বেকার শ্রমিকরা। অন্যদিকে চাকরি বাঁচাতে দ্বিগুণ কাজ করতে বাধ্য হচ্ছেন কারখানাগুলোতে নিয়োজিত শ্রমিকরা। মজুরি ও উৎপাদন খরচ বৃদ্ধি পাওয়ায় জনবল নিয়োগে কঠোর নীতি গ্রহণ করেছে কারখানাগুলো। শিল্পাঞ্চল ঘুরে এমন তথ্যই পাওয়া গেছে। তবে চলতি বছর কাজের মৌসুম শেষ হওয়াও একটি বড় কারণ বলে মনে করছে এ খাতের সঙ্গে সংশ্লিষ্টরা। পুরনো বেকার শ্রমিকদের সঙ্গে প্রতিদিনই যোগ হচ্ছে গ্রাম থেকে আসা নতুন শ্রমিকরা। নতুন শ্রমিকদের অভিজ্ঞতা না থাকায় কাজও মিলছে না। আর পুরনো শ্রমিকদের মধ্যে যারা ঈদ কিংবা অন্য কোনো কারণে চাকরি ছেড়ে দিয়েছিলেন তারা ফিরে এলেও পুরনো কাজ ফেরত পাচ্ছেন না। শ্রমিকদের ভাষ্যমতে, আগে কাজ ছেড়ে কয়েক মাস বাড়ি থেকে এলেও শিল্পাঞ্চলে কাজ পাওয়া যেত। কিন্তু এখন কাজ ছেড়ে দিলেই আর কাজ পাওয়া যায় না। যখন কোনো শ্রমিক কাজ ছেড়ে যায়, তখন কোম্পানিগুলো অল্প শ্রমিক দিয়ে বেশি উৎপাদনের নীতি গ্রহণ করে। কম শ্রমিক দিয়ে বেশি উৎপাদনের এই প্রচলন শুরু হয় মূলত এ বছরের জানুয়ারি থেকে। ওই সময় থেকে শ্রমিকদের ন্যূনতম মজুরি ৮ হাজার টাকা কার্যকর হয়। এরপর থেকেই অধিকাংশ কারখানা শ্রমিক নিয়োগে সতর্কতা অবলম্বন শুরু করে। কোনো শ্রমিক কাজ ছেড়ে গেলেই ওই পদে আর নিয়োগ দেয়া হচ্ছে না। কাজের সন্ধানে ঘুরে বেড়ানো বেকার এক শ্রমিক আয়েশা আক্তার। সেলাইয়ের কাজে পারদর্শী। তিনি বলেন, ‘ভাবছিলাম ঈদের পর সহজে একটা চাকরি পাওয়া যাবে। কিন্তু ঈদের পরেও লোক নিচ্ছে না। আজ এই কারখানায় তো কাল ওই কারখানায় ঘুরছি। কিন্তু চাকরি পাচ্ছি না।’ রবিউল ইসলাম নামের এক শ্রমিক বলেন, ‘ঢাকা ইপিজেডের দু-একটি কারখানায় কিছু শ্রমিক নিচ্ছে। পাঁচজন শ্রমিক নিলে ২০ জনের সাক্ষাৎকার নেয়া হয়। যারা অতিরিক্ত কাজের টার্গেট পূরণ করতে পারছে শুধু তারাই কাজ পাচ্ছে। টার্গেট পূরণ করতে না পারলে বের করে দেয়া হয়।’ শিল্পাঞ্চল ঘুরে দেখা গেছে, অধিকাংশ কারখানার প্রধান ফটকে ‘কর্ম খালি নেই’ নোটিশ ঝুলিয়ে রাখা হয়েছে। চাকরিপ্রত্যাশীদের চাপ সামলাতে এমন নোটিশও কাজে আসছে না। নোটিশ দেখার পরও বেকার শ্রমিকরা কাজের আশায় প্রতিদিনই কারখানার সামনে ভিড় করছেন। নাম প্রকাশে অনিচ্ছুক একটি পোশাক কারখানার মানবসম্পদ বিভাগের এক কর্মকর্তা জাগো নিউজকে বলেন, শ্রমিকদের মজুরি বাড়ানোর পর থেকে নিয়োগে সতর্কতা অবলম্বন করা হচ্ছে। আগে সুইং অপারেটররা একজন করে সহযোগী পেতেন। এখন কোনো সহযোগী দেয়া হয় না। আগের উৎপাদন লক্ষ্যমাত্রার চেয়ে এখনকার লক্ষ্যমাত্রাও দ্বিগুণ। গার্মেন্টস শ্রমিক ট্রেড ইউনিয়নের সাংগঠনিক সম্পাদক খায়রুল মামুন মিন্টু বলেন, নিয়োগ যেমন বন্ধ রয়েছে, তেমনি অতিরিক্ত কাজের চাপে বর্তমানে শ্রমিকরা নিষ্পেষিত। একজন শ্রমিককে দিয়ে দুজনের কাজ করানো হচ্ছে। বেতন বাড়ানোর পর থেকে এই অসাধু উপায়টি অবলম্বন করছে মালিকপক্ষ। চাকরি বাঁচাতে বাধ্য হয়ে অতিরিক্ত কাজ করছেন শ্রমিকরা। এজন্যই মূলত চাকরি পাচ্ছেন না বেকার শ্রমিকরা।

Scant attention to managing chemicals in Vietnam

Despite consuming a large amount of chemicals, most Vietnamese textile and garment firms pay little attention to chemical management, leading to passive reaction during any accident, the ministry of natural resources and environment said recently. As most companies are small- and medium-sized, their focus on environmental management has been minimal. The volume of chemicals, including acids, alkalis, solvents and various salts, consumed in the textile and garment industry is around 9 million tonnes per year. However, their management has remained weak, according to a report in a Vietnamese newspaper. Most companies show interest in this critical task when a chemical-related accident occurs, Phan Qu?nh Chi, deputy general secretary of the Vietnam Textile and Garment Association, said. Deputy director of the Institute of Environmental Sciences Nguyen Th? Phuong Mai said very few companies have installed the legally-mandatory wastewater treatment systems. Dyeing enterprises have been found to violate environmental regulations, with many repeat offenders. PangRim Neotex Company in northern Phú Th? Province has been found discharging untreated wastewater into the Hong river six times since 2010. The discharged wastewater contained excessive levels of pollutants such as ammonium nitrate, coliform and biochemical oxygen, which were between 6.9 and 24.7 times higher than the permitted levels.

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